parks

Why Motorbike Tours Are a Great Way to Explore Vietnam

Explore Vietnam’s stunning landscapes and vibrant culture with the freedom of a motorbike tour along iconic routes like Ho Chi Minh Road and Ha Giang Loop.

A line of motorbikers ride along a road twisting through rice patties in Vietnam

Imagine the wind rushing through your hair as your motorbike weaves through lush rice paddies, the scent of fresh rain hanging in the air. You hear the distant hum of life in the countryside — children laughing, roosters crowing, water buffalo lazily grazing in the fields. 

Two young men sit by a river in Vietnam near their motorbike

As you round a bend, the scenery transforms into towering limestone cliffs draped in mist, with a sparkling river winding its way through the valley below. There’s a sense of freedom you’ve never experienced before, a feeling that only Vietnam, with its mix of untamed beauty and vibrant culture, can offer. This is more than just a tour; it’s a journey that connects you with the land, the people and the raw essence of adventure.

Motorbiking through Vietnam offers a sense of freedom you’ve never experienced before, a feeling that only this country, with its mix of untamed beauty and vibrant culture, can offer.

Let’s be real — nothing beats tearing through a country on two wheels, and Vietnam? It’s a motorbiker’s dream. Ditch the cramped buses and cookie-cutter itineraries. Out here, it’s just you, the open road and views that will make you forget to blink. Whether you’re gunning for adrenaline or craving a quiet moment with nature, Vietnam motorbike tours are the ultimate way to soak it all in. The road becomes your playground, and suddenly, the journey itself is the whole point.

A woman on a motorbike stops at a stall in Vietnam, where a woman servers her from a giant bowl of pho

The Freedom of a Motorbike Tour

Motorbike tours give you something that other travel options just can’t: freedom. There’s no better way to explore Vietnam than setting your own pace, deciding where to stop and changing your route on a whim. Feeling hungry? Pull over at a street food stall and grab a steaming bowl of pho. Need a break? Find a scenic spot by a river and just take it all in. The beauty of motorbike tours is the flexibility to experience Vietnam exactly how you want to. 

Beyond the logistics, there’s a connection to your surroundings that’s impossible to achieve in a car or bus. You’re not watching the world pass by through a window — you’re in it. The scent of fresh rain, the sound of the wind and the sight of rice paddies stretching out for miles — it’s all right there, pulling you deeper into the adventure. From the towering mountains to the coastal roads that hug the sea, each twist and turn of the road reveals something new, and you get to experience it firsthand.

A badass man rides a motorbike along a dirt path in a Vietnamese village

Let’s not forget the thrill. Vietnam’s roads offer a mix of smooth highways and rugged dirt tracks, making each ride a mini adventure. It’s not always easy — there are challenges like winding mountain paths and unpredictable traffic — but that’s part of what makes it so exciting. You’re in control, and every ride feels like a victory.

A person stands by a loaded up motorbike admiring a waterfall in Vietnam

Popular Routes for Vietnam Motorbike Tours

If you’re planning a motorbike tour in Vietnam, there are a few iconic routes you won’t want to miss. Each one offers its own unique charm, taking you through some of the country’s most breathtaking landscapes and cultural hotspots.

A young woman rides her motorbike through a forest near Ho Chi Minh City

The Ho Chi Minh Road is a favorite among riders. Stretching from north to south, this road runs parallel to the coast and takes you deep into Vietnam’s countryside. Along the way, you’ll pass through dense forests, quiet villages and historic sites, making it a great way to get a feel for the real Vietnam. For history buffs, this route holds special significance as it follows the path used during the Vietnam War.

A couple cruises along the coast of Vietnam on a motorbike

Another must-ride route is the Hai Van Pass — often called one of the most beautiful coastal roads in the world. With hairpin turns and panoramic views of the coastline, this route is both thrilling and stunning. It connects the cities of Hue and Da Nang, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty and local culture.

A man rides a motorcycle along Ha Giang Loop in the mountains of northern Vietnam

And then there’s the Ha Giang Loop, a route that takes you to the remote northern mountains of Vietnam. This area is less touristy and offers some of the most dramatic landscapes you’ll ever see. The towering limestone peaks, deep valleys and traditional hill tribe villages will make you feel like you’ve stepped into another world. If you’re up for an adventure, this is where you’ll find it.

A chic woman stops her motorbike to shop for handicrafts at a market in Vietnam

Vietnam by Motorbike: Must-Stops Along the Way

One of the best parts of a motorbike tour is the ability to stop wherever you like. There’s no schedule to follow, and that’s exactly what makes the journey so magical. Vietnam is full of must-see spots, and here are a few you should add to your list.

Some motorbikers admire a cool cave at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in Vietnam

First up, Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to some of the most impressive caves in the world, including the enormous Son Doong Cave. Whether you’re an adventure seeker or just looking to marvel at nature, this stop will leave you speechless.

An older gay couple rides a motorbike under colored paper lanterns in Hoi An, Vietnam

Next, the charming town of Hoi An is a must-visit. With its lantern-lit streets and ancient architecture, this riverside town feels like stepping back in time. Take a stroll through its narrow streets, grab a banh mi from a street vendor or even get a custom-tailored suit made — Hoi An has something for everyone.

A man rides a motorcycle through the mountains of the Dong Van Karst Plateau in Vietnam

For a more off-the-beaten-path experience, the Dong Van Karst Plateau in Ha Giang offers jaw-dropping views of Vietnam’s northern highlands. You’ll ride through rugged mountains, visit hill tribe villages and soak in views that look like something out of a painting. It’s remote, raw and absolutely unforgettable.

A couple choose motorbikes at a shop in Vietnam

Top Tips for Planning Your Vietnam Motorbike Adventure

Ready to hit the road? Before you rev up your engine, here are a few tips to help make your motorbike tour of Vietnam as smooth as possible.

Choose the right bike. 

Not all motorbikes can handle Vietnamese trails, and choosing the right one is key to a smooth ride. For beginners or casual riders, a scooter is easier to handle, especially in Vietnam’s busy cities. If you’re more experienced and want to go off-road, a reliable manual bike offers better control, particularly on rugged terrain. Whichever you choose, always test the bike before hitting the road.

A woman on a motorbike shows her driver's license to a police officer in a Vietnamese city

Get your paperwork in order.

Riding a motorbike in Vietnam requires more than just the desire for thrills — you’ll need the proper paperwork. Make sure to carry an international driving permit (IDP), along with your home country’s driving license. 

In addition, make sure you have the necessary insurance coverage in case of accidents or damage. Some rental companies offer temporary insurance, but it’s always good to double-check.

A man rides a motorbike through a bamboo forest in Vietnam in the rain

Pack smart.

When you’re riding for long hours, packing light is essential. Opt for a small backpack that fits comfortably on your bike, and focus on essentials: a raincoat, layers for cooler mountain temperatures, a good pair of gloves, sunscreen and plenty of water. Always have a map or GPS handy, even if you’re relying on your phone, as rural areas can have spotty service. Remember to bring a first aid kit for minor injuries or bike repairs.

A Muslim woman on a motorbike is surprised to stumble into a Vietnamese hill tribe festival

Plan your route — but stay flexible.

Having a general idea of where you want to go is smart, especially for long-distance tours. However, part of the fun of motorbike travel is being spontaneous. Don’t be afraid to veer off course and explore hidden gems. Vietnam is full of surprises — whether it’s a stunning viewpoint, a local festival or a charming village, sometimes the best moments come when you least expect them.

A man rides a motorcycle through the foggy mountains of Vietnam

Respect the weather.  

Vietnam’s weather can be unpredictable, especially during the rainy season. Keep an eye on the forecast and be prepared to change plans if necessary. Riding in heavy rain or foggy mountain passes can be dangerous, so it’s better to wait out bad weather or take a rest day. If you’re heading into the mountains, be aware that temperatures can drop, so pack warmer layers, even if it’s hot in the lowlands.

A group of tourists rides motorbikes through the bustling Old Quarter in Hanoi, Vietnam

Stay safe and ride smart.  

Riding in Vietnam, especially in cities like Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh, can be chaotic. Take it slow, stay alert and always wear your helmet. Follow local traffic rules and be prepared for unpredictable drivers or sudden obstacles. It’s important to remain calm and patient, particularly in busy areas. In more remote regions, keep an eye out for road conditions that can change suddenly — be it potholes, gravel or livestock crossing the road!

A gay couple rides a motorcycle past rice terraces in Vietnam

Feel the Thrill of the Open Road

At the heart of a motorbike tour in Vietnam is the sense of freedom. There’s nothing like feeling the wind on your face, the rumble of the engine beneath you, and the endless horizon stretching out ahead. You’re not just seeing the sights — you’re part of them. You can stop whenever something catches your eye, whether it’s a bustling market or a hidden waterfall, and that’s what makes motorbike travel so special.

A couple smiles as they stop their motorbike to let water buffalo cross the street in Vietnam

Riding through Vietnam isn’t just about getting from point A to point B; it’s about the journey itself. Every road has a story to tell, from the quiet countryside to the bustling city streets. It’s the thrill of navigating new terrain, the excitement of discovering a place that few have ventured, and the satisfaction of knowing that you made this journey happen.

Handsome shirtless men on the beach in Vietnam near a motorbike and umbrella

So, if you’re looking for an unforgettable way to explore Vietnam, hop on a motorbike and hit the open road. Whether you’re riding through misty mountains or along sun-soaked beaches, you’ll experience Vietnam in a way that will stay with you long after the trip is over. –Amy Fischer


If you’re looking for an adventure, check out Explore Indochina motorbike tours, which are the perfect way to immerse yourself in Vietnam’s history and beautiful nature.

Fall Foliage in Japan: A Guide to Experiencing the Spectacular Koyo

Discover the best places for autumn in Japan, including Hokkaido, Nikko, Fuji Five Lakes, Kyoto and Tokyo. Plus, you’ll fall for these  cultural traditions and travel tips.

A handsome man in suit takes pictures of the fall foliage near a bridge and temple in Japan

Japan in fall is a spectacle of vibrant colors and cultural traditions, with every corner of the country bursting into hues of red, orange and yellow. Known as koyo, the brilliant display of autumn leaves makes this the perfect time to soak up Japan’s natural beauty. But if you’re aiming for the best fall foliage spots and wondering about cultural traditions tied to the season, don’t worry — I’ve got you covered.

A hip young woman admires a temple and fall foliage near friendly deer at Nara, Japan
Known as koyo, the brilliant display of autumn leaves makes fall the perfect time to soak up Japan’s natural beauty.

Before heading off, make sure you check the Japan fall foliage forecast for the year so you hit the peak time for those autumn hues. Now, let’s dive into the top spots for fall foliage viewing, starting with the early birds all the way to the late bloomers. 

A man hikes near hot springs and red autumn foliage in Hokkaido, Japan

Hokkaido

Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido, is home to Daisetsuzan National Park, one of the first places to catch the autumn colors. Starting mid-September, you can hike around Kogen Onsen for a kaleidoscope of leaves. Just don’t forget your bear safety orientation — these woods are home to some of Japan’s most curious critters. Another fall gem? Noboribetsu, known for its eerie “Hell Valley,” where volcanic hot springs and bubbling pools make for a steamy, surreal leaf-viewing experience.

A backpacker stands by a waterfall amid fall foliage with a mountain in the background in Kikko, Japan

Nikko

Nikko offers one of the longest koyo seasons in Japan. The leaf-changing magic starts mid-October near the waterfalls, before spreading in golden waves across Senjogahara Marshland and up to Lake Chuzenji. The stunning contrast of colors against the blue waters is definitely a sight you don’t want to miss.

A backpacker stands by the water, with Mount Fuji in the distance, admiring the fall foliage of Fuji Five Lakes, Japan

Fuji Five Lakes

With Mount Fuji towering above, the Fuji Five Lakes region is undeniably a showstopper. In early November, the northern shores of Lake Kawaguchiko are prime for leaf viewing, with the snow-capped peak looming in the background. If you’re feeling adventurous, this could be your basecamp for a late fall climb.

Shooting stars soar above Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto, Japan, the area awash in red fall foliage

Kyoto

Kyoto, with its historic temples and gardens, steals the show in mid-to-late November. Arashiyama, known for its bamboo grove, becomes even more magical when framed by autumn colors — yes, the same spot you’ve seen in Memoirs of a Geisha. Kiyomizu-dera Temple, perched above a sea of crimson leaves, offers stunning views, and its nighttime illuminations give the foliage an otherworldly glow.

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, with temples and fall foliage amid the skyscrapers of Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo

Even Tokyo gets in on the action. By late November, Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden lights up with reds and yellows, offering a stunning mix of Japanese, English, and French-style gardens. Meanwhile, Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens showcase fiery maple leaves reflected in its serene ponds, blending nature with traditional Japanese design for a peaceful retreat in the city.

A couple with a white dog look up at the maple and gingko trees during fall in Japan

Types of Trees You’ll See for Japanese Fall Foliage

Japanese maple (momiji): The star of the season, momiji trees light up the landscape with their fiery red leaves, becoming the very symbol of autumn in Japan.

Ginkgo: With their distinctive fan-shaped leaves turning a brilliant yellow, ginkgo trees are a common sight in cities, parks and temples and lining streets.

Rowan and larch: Adding splashes of orange and yellow, these trees round out the autumn palette, with larch standing out as the only conifer that drops its needle-shaped leaves for the season.

A train cruises through the mountains and countryside of Japan, with the trees showing fall colors

How to Get Around for Japan’s Fall Foliage

Japan Rail Pass: The perfect ticket to hop between major cities and regions. If you’re planning to cover a lot of ground with long-distance trips, this is both a convenient and cost-effective option.

Public transportation: In bustling cities like Tokyo and Kyoto, the train and bus networks make getting around a breeze. 

Car rental: When you’re heading to more remote spots like Nikko or Hokkaido, a rental car gives you the freedom to escape the crowds and explore at your own pace.

Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival in Fukushima, Japan

Cultural Traditions for Koyo

The Japanese don’t just admire the leaves — they “hunt” them. Momiji-gari, which literally translates to “autumn leaf hunting,” is all about appreciating the vivid colors, particularly those of the maple tree. And don’t be surprised if you spot some maple leaf tempura on menus — it’s a sweet seasonal treat.

The fall harvest also means festivals. Kyoto’s Jidai Matsuri on October 22 brings history to life with participants donning costumes from different periods of Japan’s past. Meanwhile, the Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival in Fukushima lights up the streets with floats covered in glowing red lanterns — it’s a sight not to be missed.

A couple eats sushi with chopsticks on a picnic near a stream amid the fall foliage of Japan, with a fox nearby

Travel Tips for Fall Foliage in Japan

Plan ahead. 
With autumn being a prime time for visitors, accommodations fill up fast. Be sure to book early and keep an eye on foliage forecasts to catch the peak colors.

Layer your clothing. 
The temperatures swing throughout the day, so dressing in layers will keep you comfortable no matter the weather.

Respect local customs. 
Temples and shrines hold a special place in Japanese culture. When visiting, be sure to follow local traditions and show proper etiquette. This might mean taking off your shoes before entering temple buildings, avoiding loud conversations, refraining from taking photos in restricted areas, and bowing to show respect when entering and leaving holy places.

A gay couple walk down a lane under trees in the fall in Japan

On the Hunt for Fall Foliage 

Japan’s autumn certainly wows with its colors — but it’s also the culture, festivals and history that make this season so special. So grab your camera, plan your trip and get ready to “hunt” some of the most stunning fall views the world has to offer. –Julia Hill 


NATURE’S MARVELS

The Hidden Gems of Barcelona

Take a tour of the off-the-beaten path attractions in El Raval, the Gothic Quarter, Poble-sec, Gràcia and Montjuïc. 

Man walks down pedestrian walkway at night in Barcelona, as the lights create a starlike effect

Barcelona, the cosmopolitan capital of Spain’s Catalonia region, is renowned for its vibrant culture, art and architecture. But beyond the fantastical and incomplete basilica of La Sagrada Familia and historic Modernisme landmarks designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, like Parc Güell, lie an abundance of less-familiar spots waiting to be discovered.

Aerial view of the streets of Barcelona, forming a neat grid divided by the Diagonal, with La Sagrada Familia church in the foreground

Barcelona’s Hidden Treasures 

While Barcelona’s main attractions are undoubtedly worth visiting, the city’s true identity lies in its non-touristy spots. From ancient Roman ruins to quaint local markets, a hidden gems private tour offers a glimpse into the authentic Barcelona that locals cherish.

Like in many of the best cities, Barcelona’s charm lies in its neighborhoods. Here are some of the best ones — and the lesser-known locales nestled within them.

Pedestrians walk through a street in El Raval in Barcelona

El Raval: The Bohemian Quarter 

Sandwiched between the streets of Paralelo and Las Ramblas, El Raval is one of the most densely populated and multicultural areas of the city. Once known for its rough edges, the neighborhood has since transformed into a cultural hotspot teeming with art galleries, trendy bars and eclectic boutiques. It’s a place where old meets new, offering a rich tapestry of experiences for those willing to explore.

Glass and mirrored facade to the CCCB (Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona)

CCCB (Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona)

One of the sites worth visiting in El Raval is the CCCB, a complex dedicated to exploring contemporary culture through exhibitions, debates and festivals. Housed in a former almshouse, the building is a blend of historic and modern architecture. It’s an excellent starting point for those interested in the city’s vibrant cultural scene.

Calle Montalegre, 5 
Ciutat Vella, 08001

The small Bishop's Bridge in the dark quiet Gothic Quarter of Barcelona

The Gothic Quarter: A Journey Through Time 

While not exactly under the radar, the winding alleys of the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) hold plenty of surprises. Begin your exploration at the landmark La Seu, also known as the Barcelona Cathedral. Wander through the narrow, pedestrian-friendly streets where layers of history, architecture and secluded squares dating back to the 15th century await discovery. 

Keep an eye out for a set of streetlights commissioned by the city council and designed in 1878 by Gaudí, one of only two works he created for the administration shortly after graduating as an architect from la Escola Tècnica Superior d’Arquitectura de Barcelona. 

Two bikes parked along a fence by a reddish stone fortress wall in Plaça dels Traginers in Barcelona

Plaça dels Traginers

Stop in the early afternoon for a glass of vermouth in this plaza, where locals like to leisurely meet next to the ruins of an ancient Roman fortress. 

People sit on the steps of the gray stone building in Plaça del Reí  in Barcelona

Plaça del Reí 

Kings Square is a tranquil square surrounded by Gothic buildings, including the Palau Reial Major, the medieval residence of Catalan counts and kings. The square’s understated elegance makes it a perfect spot to soak in the history and ambiance of old Barcelona. It’s thought that King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella greeted Christopher Columbus from the steps fanning out from the corner of the square after he arrived home from his first voyage to the so-called New World. 

A tattooed woman looks at the pipes on display at Barcelona's Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum

Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum

Located in the former Palau Mornau, this niche museum covers the history of pot and hemp. Its permanent collection features around 8,000 objects related to cannabis cultivation and use throughout history, including medicine bottles, apothecary kits, paintings, pipes and film posters. Exhibits cover the recreational and medicinal uses, industrial applications, legislative history and horticultural aspects of cannabis cultivation.

Carrer Ample, 35
Ciutat Vella, 08002

People eat at long tables that fill the street in the Poble-sec neighborhood in Barcelona

Poble-sec: A Taste of Local Life 

Abutting Montjuïc hill is Poble-sec, which translates to “Dry Village” in Catalan because it lacked water until the late 19th century. This hood, with its signature sloping streets, combines a modern, lively vibe with Old World charm. It’s a great place to experience the everyday life of Barcelonians.

A server in black carries a wooden board with a bunch of pintxos of sliders

Carrer de Blai

If you’re looking for Barcelona highlights, head to Carrer de Blai, a street famous for its many budget-friendly pintxos bars. Pronounced “peen-choz,” the name comes from the Spanish verb pinchar, meaning to poke or stab. Sampling these small, skewered bite-sized snacks by hopping from bar to bar is a popular local tradition, usually enjoyed while waiting for dinner, which typically doesn’t begin until around 9 p.m. at the earliest.

Telefèric de Montjuïc Cable Car above the city of Barcelona

Telefèric de Montjuïc Cable Car

For breathtaking views of the city, take the Montjuïc cable car. The journey offers panoramic vistas of Barcelona, the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding hills. At the top, you’ll find Castell de Montjuïc (Montjuïc Castle), a historic fortress with an intriguing past.

People eat in an outdoor courtyard in a plaza in Gràcia under purple flowering trees

Gràcia: The Village Within the City

Gràcia was once a separate village before being annexed by Barcelona in the late 19th century. Despite its integration into the city, Gràcia has retained its distinct, bohemian character. Its bustling plazas and narrow streets are full of life, especially during the Festa Major de Gràcia, a vibrant local festival held every August.

White umbrellas over tables and chairs in Plaça del Sol, with apartment buildings behind in Barcelona

Plaça del Sol

This lively square is the beating heart of Gràcia. Locals gather here to relax, socialize and enjoy a caña (a small glass of beer). Surrounding the square are numerous bars and cafés, making it an ideal spot to experience the neighborhood’s convivial spirit.

Plaça del Sol, 23
Gràcia, 08012

A strange red and yellow plant in the Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera in Barcelona

Parks and Recreation 

In a bustling metropolis like Barcelona, finding tranquil green spaces can be a delightful surprise. The city has several parks and gardens that offer a peaceful retreat from the urban hustle, many of which remain relatively undiscovered by tourists.

Cacti and palms in the Jardins de Mossen Costa i Llobera in Barcelona

Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera

Perched on the port-facing slopes of Montjuïc mountain, the Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera offer a spectacular view of the city’s coastline and port. With over 800 desert and subtropical species of succulents and cacti, the garden makes for a striking backdrop and is the perfect spot for reflection and relaxation.

Carretera de Miramar, 38
Sants-Montjuïc 08038

The hedge maze at Parc del Laberint d’Horta in Barcelona, Spain

Parc del Laberint d’Horta

Parc del Laberint d’Horta, Barcelona’s oldest historical garden, is a delightful surprise in the city’s Horta-Guinardó district. Situated on the former estate of the Desvalls family, it features an 18th century Neoclassical garden, a 19th century Romantic garden, pavilions with statues from Greek mythology and a cypress hedge maze, which explains the “Laberint” (Labyrinth) in its name.

Passeig dels Castanyers, 1
Horta-Guinardó 08035

A waterfall at the monastery of Sant Miquel del Fai, built on the side of a cliff outside of Barcelona in Spain

Sant Miquel del Fai

If you’re planning to spend several days in Barcelona and are looking to explore something farther afield, Sant Miquel del Fai is about 45 minutes away. Built into the face of the Bertí cliffs, this ancient monastery offers stunning views of the Catalan countryside. Visitors can explore the main church, the chapel of Sant Martí and various other structures within the complex, including the Cova de Sant Miquel caves, which feature impressive stalactites and stalagmites.

BV-1485
Kilómetro 7
08416 Riells del fai
Barcelona

Aerial view of a roundabout with monument in Barcelona

Gaudí’s Great, But…

Whether you’re wandering through the bohemian streets of El Raval or savoring the culinary delights of a hidden tapas bar, these lesser-known Barcelona highlights reveal a side of the city often overshadowed by its more famous landmarks. Your Spanish adventure awaits! –Natalie Howard

3 Killer Spots You Have to See in Death Valley

Death Valley National Park: Don’t let the name fool you! Witness life persist at Badwater Basin (North America’s lowest point!), see rocks defy gravity at the Racetrack, and journey through time in Mosaic Canyon’s vibrant formations.

The mountains surrounding Death Valley in California

Straddling the edge of the Mojave Desert in southeastern California and bordering Nevada, Death Valley National Park spans a whopping 3.4 million acres of untamed wilderness, making it the largest park in the United States outside of Alaska’s. 

And if you’re a fan of dry humor, you’ll appreciate that it’s the lowest and driest park in the country, getting less rainfall than your houseplant when you’re on vacation — just under 2 inches (51 millimeters) a year!

Rocks drift across the flat desert landscape, leaving slug-like trails in the crust, without human or animal intervention.

Known as “sailing stones,” the rocks vary in size from a few ounces to hundreds of pounds.
Small oval-shaped cacti with pink spikes grow in Death Valley, CA

Death Valley Comes Alive

The region got its nickname from a group of pioneers seeking a shortcut to the California coast. They became hopelessly lost in its unforgiving climate, and when they finally made it out, were quoted as saying, “Goodbye, Death Valley. “ The name has stuck ever since.

Despite its foreboding name and harsh conditions, the national park pulses with life. From snow-capped peaks to Sahara-like sand dunes, with vibrant wildflower meadows and winding canyons thrown in, the park offers a bounty of natural wonders. Keep your eyes peeled for roadrunners, often seen darting around Furnace Creek (though they’re not quite like the one famously featured in Looney Tunes cartoons).

Death Valley became a national park in 1994 and welcomes hundreds of thousands of visitors a year. Each corner of the park offers something different. There are numerous natural attractions, with ancient seas and lakes, volcanoes and warped mountains all sites that can be visited here.

With so many intriguing spots to choose from, which of its attractions should be at the top of your must-see list? Keep reading for my top 3 picks you won’t want to miss.

Hexagon-like formations in Badwater Basin, Death Valley, at sunset

1: Badwater Basin

How low can you go? At 282 feet (86 meters) below sea level, Badwater Basin holds the title as the lowest point in North America. This incredible natural wonder is the remains of a lake that dried up tens of thousands of years ago.

The sprawling salt flats cover a jaw-dropping 200 square miles (500 square kilometers), shaped by seasonal flooding that deposits a glittering layer of sodium chloride (good ol’ table salt), calcite, gypsum and borax as the water evaporates.

The natural wonder got its name when a surveyor attempted to get his mule to drink from the small spring-fed pool near the boardwalk. The mule refused because of the water’s high salinity, and the surveyor marked the location on his map as “bad water.”

Reflection of clouds and sky at shallow lake in Badwater Basin in Death Valley, CA

When Hurricane Hilary swept through the park in 2023, it flooded the flats, forming a temporary lake over the basin. (The park service reports that it has evaporated to only a few inches deep and is quite far from the road.) 

But even in the harshest of environments, life finds a way. The lakes attract some extraordinary creatures like the Devils Hole pupfish and tiny Badwater snail — fascinating critters that have made this harsh landscape their home.

A rock leaves a trail as it seems to move by itself at the sandy Racetrack in Death Valley

2: The Racetrack

Among Death Valley’s mind-bending phenomena are the mysterious moving rocks of Racetrack Playa. This dry lakebed is tucked away in a secluded valley between the Cottonwood and Last Chance Ranges and spans about three miles north to south and two miles east to west. However, getting to this remote site is no easy feat and requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle like a Jeep to handle the rugged terrain.

Here, rocks drift across the flat desert landscape, leaving slug-like trails in the crust, without human or animal intervention. Known as “sailing stones,” the rocks vary in size from a few ounces to hundreds of pounds. The phenomenon baffled geologists for years and has only recently been attributed to infrequent freeze-thaw conditions. It was previously thought to occur as a result of Earth’s magnetic field and, at one point, extraterrestrial mountain dwellers popping out during full moons.

Beyond the sailing stones, the Racetrack offers breathtaking views of the Panamint Range. Although the journey to reach this destination is long, the abundance of sights makes the trip to the Racetrack an unforgettable adventure.

Mosaic Canyon in Death Valley, California

3: Mosaic Canyon

There are many canyons in Death Valley, but Mosaic Canyon easily stands out as one of the park’s most popular day hikes. Along its trail, you’ll encounter the mosaic conglomerates that lend the canyon its name. These formations, known as breccia, consist of shattered fragments of marble and dolomite fused together over millennia and embedded in the canyon walls, resulting in a stunning mosaic-like pattern.

Beyond these unique geological finds and breathtaking canyon views, a trip here provides the perfect opportunity for a challenging hike across the rugged terrain. However, navigating the canyon can be tricky, with twists and turns hidden behind giant boulders and apparent dead ends. So, if you’re seeking a hiking experience that keeps you on your toes, Mosaic Canyon is ideal — just be sure to bring along a map.

You’ll find the Mosaic Canyon trailhead near Highway 190, not far from the Mesquite Sand Dunes. This hike winds through narrow passages, around boulder obstacles and past some dry waterfalls. 

While the entire hike is less than four miles long, what makes it stand out is that you can tailor it to your liking, hiking as little or as much as you want.

One of the "sailing stones" at the Racetrack in Death Valley at sunset

Planning a Visit to Death Valley

Before visiting Death Valley, there are many important factors to consider. Research is essential, for, while some areas are suitable for all ages and abilities, others require experienced adventurers with proper gear. Check the National Park Service website for current conditions and updates. Areas of the park may be closed due to weather, road damage or construction. 

When is the best time to visit Death Valley?

I highly suggest visiting from November to March, when temperatures are more bearable. Camping and ranger-led programs operate from late October to late April, so plan your trip during this period if you’d like to participate in these activities.

Avoid hiking during the scorching summer months from May to September, when temperatures average 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius). Most attractions are exposed, increasing the risk of dehydration and sunstroke.

What are the entrance fees for Death Valley? Do I need a pass?

The National Park Service charges an entrance fee and offers various passes, depending on your trip plans. Consider staying inside the park to spend less time driving in and out and to get the most out of your visit.

Is cell phone reception available in Death Valley?

Cell phone reception is limited in most areas of Death Valley. Download offline maps such as the National Park Service app or maps.me to help assure safe navigation.

What should I bring with me to Death Valley?

Create a checklist tailored to your visit and the season. Essentials include: 

  • Maps 

  • A portable charger

  • Sunscreen

  • Appropriate attire (hat, sunglasses, lightweight layers, breathable sturdy shoes or boots, and wool socks)

  • Water

  • Snacks

Death Valley: It’s not dead; it’s just waiting to be explored. Follow these tips, set your itinerary and be ready to be wowed. This park is full of surprises! –Isabella Hardy

 

Top 5 Must-Visit Attractions in Chennai

Take a leisurely walk on Marina Beach, marvel at Kapaleeswarar Temple, discover treasures at the Government Museum, unwind at Elliot’s Beach and spot wildlife at Guindy National Park — all in Tamil Nadu’s capital.

Aerial view of Chennai, India with the Kapaleeshwarar Temple dominating the skyline

Formerly known as Madras, Chennai, the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu, is India’s fourth-largest city. Located on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal, the city serves as the gateway to South India and is as diverse and colorful as its namesake plaid. 

From the awe-inspiring 7th century Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, to bustling street markets and serene beaches, Chennai captivates visitors with its blend of rich traditions, old heritage and contemporary wonders. Be sure to add these five must-see locations, where natural beauty, history and one-of-a-kind culture come together to make for an unforgettable trip. 

People and two horses on Marina Beach in Chennai, India

Marina Beach

1. Marina Beach: A Haven of Serenity

Stretching along the Coromandel Coast, Marina Beach, or simply the Marina, is a popular spot, where both locals and visitors can enjoy the second-longest urban beach in the world. 

Looking out over the Bay of Bengal reveals a seemingly endless body of turquoise-colored water, while its eight-mile (13-kilometer) expanse of golden sand beckons you to take off your shoes and feel the waves lapping at your feet. But you shouldn’t plan on going into the water. This beach is only for walking — swimming is prohibited, as the undercurrent is considered too strong.

The Marina is also the site of a variety of festivals, delicious street food, and souvenir and handicraft shops. 

You can also explore Fort St. George, located at the north end of the beach. Historically known as White Town, it was built in 1639 by the British East India Company and served as the epicenter of the growing city of Madras. 

Pale yellow neo-classical exterior of Fort St. George in Chennai, India

Fort St. George

Be sure to look out for the statue of Kannagi, the heroine and central character from the Tamil epic Silapathikaram, holding an anklet in her hand and demanding justice. 

Statue of the heroine Kannagi, with an outstretched arm on Marina Beach in Chennai, India

Statue of the heroine Kannagi on Marina Beach

I recommend visiting the beach at dusk to enjoy the sunset or at dawn to see the sunrise, when the sky takes on an intense orange hue. 

Rainbow-colored top of Kapaleeshwarar Temple with intricate carvings entirely covering it in Chennai, India

Kapaleeshwarar Temple

2. Kapaleeshwarar Temple: A Sacred Architectural Marvel

One of Chennai’s most well-known landmarks, Kapaleeshwarar Temple is dedicated to Arulmigu Kapaleeshwarar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, and his consort, Karpagambal, an embodiment of the goddess Parvati. 

The ancient temple is a testament to the city’s remarkable architectural legacy, combining elements of Dravidian and Pallava styles. You can’t help but be captivated by its monumental gopura, or main temple tower. 

The Kapaleeshwarar temple complex

At 131 feet tall (40 meters) the richly decorated structure is covered with vibrantly colored sculptures depicting scenes from Hindu mythology.

Past the grounds of the temple, the winding alleyways of the Mylapore neighborhood provide a sensory adventure. Explore the lively marketplaces, where kiosks brim with brilliantly colored fabrics, traditional handicrafts and aromatic spices.

The neo-Mughul exterior of the Government Museum in Chennai, India

The Neo-Mughal façade of the Government Museum in Chennai

3. Government Museum: A Trove of Cultural Treasures

The Government Museum complex has an impressive collection of artifacts and sculptures from the major South Indian periods, ranging from 2nd century BCE Buddhist sculptures to 16th century work from the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagar. Each exhibit reveals an intriguing story as you meander through the galleries, illuminating the customs, artistic expressions and lifestyles of those who formerly inhabited this part of the country.

13th century bronze statue of Ardhanarishvara, the androgynous incarnation of Shiva and Parvati, in the Government Museum of Chennai

13th century bronze statue of Ardhanarishvara at the Government Museum

Its collection of coins, ceramics and other antiquities provides a window into the region’s rich past. Especially breathtaking are the magnificent bronze sculptures produced during the Chola dynasty. Their exquisite craftsmanship depicts gods and goddesses from the Hindu pantheon, including the striking bronze of Ardhanarishvara, the androgynous incarnation of Shiva and Parvati.

Teal and white boat on the sand and some people at Elliot's Beach in Chennai, India

Ellitot’s Beach

4. Elliot’s Beach: A Peaceful Spot to Reset

Named after the colonial-era magistrate Edward Francis Elliot, the laidback Elliot’s Beach offers a tranquil escape from the crowds of Marina Beach. This peaceful retreat can be found in the upscale Besant Nagar residential neighborhood and is a favorite hangout for locals, particularly the younger crowd.

The soothing sounds of lapping waves and refreshing ocean breeze will instantly calm your senses as you approach this serene stretch of sand. In often-hectic India, you’ll welcome the opportunity to slow down and appreciate the beauty of the present moment. It’s a great spot to watch the sun rise, too.

For those seeking a more active experience, Elliot’s Beach offers a variety of watersports and activities, including surfing and kayaking. 

If the water isn’t your thing, there are plenty of cafés, restaurants and boutique shops nearby.

The arched Karl Schmidt Memorial on Elliot's Beach in Chennai, India, at sunset

Karl Schmidt Memorial

While you’re here, stop and admire the gleaming white memorial dedicated to Karl Schmidt, a Danish sailor who drowned in the 1930s while attempting to save the life of a girl struggling against the tide.

Bright green grass, plants and trees in Children's Park in Guindy National Park, Chennai, India

Guindy National Park

5. Guindy National Park: A Green Oasis in the City

Amid Chennai’s bustling cityscape, the lush sanctuary of Guindy National Park calls out to adventurers and nature enthusiasts to experience the tranquil embrace of the natural world. The sounds of the city fade away as you enter the park, replaced by the soothing melody of rustling leaves and chirping birds.

A white peacock at Guindy National Park

Embark on a hike or bike ride along the network of well-maintained trails weaving through scrub and forest. In addition to the verdant foliage, keep an eye out for a wide variety of animals, including spotted deer, blackbucks, serpent eagles and Indian star turtles.

Red brick Chennai Railway Station with tall clock tower and nearby streets at twilight

Chennai Central Railway Station

Natural Wonders and Historical Treasures: Something for Everyone

Chennai offers a variety of activities to suit every traveler’s taste. Whether you seek the tranquility of the sea or the bustling energy of its vibrant temple complexes, this captivating city promises an unforgettable time for all who visit. –Jonathan Rastogi

A Perfect Morning in La Condesa, Mexico City

One of CDMX’s hippest hoods has its own distinct vibe with the racetrack-turned-oval-park Avenida Amsterdam and an array of eye-catching Art Deco architecture, green spaces and cafés. 

Colorful buildings along Avenida Amsterdam in Mexico City

If you’re in Mexico City, you’ve got to take a walk around the colorful colonia of La Condesa — especially the pedestrian-friendly, lush Avenida Amsterdam.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Mexico City began to experience the influence of a new international artistic movement, which had great importance in graphic and industrial design, the decorative arts and architecture. What was this revolutionary style? Art Deco, of course. 

Art and design are still a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa. Here’s how to spend a pleasant morning in the colonia (neighborhood).

Art and design are a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa.
Purple house with sign out front for Avenida Amsterdam in Mexico City

This periwinkle house and sign became a familiar guidepost for us.

1. Go round Avenida Amsterdam and the surrounding streets.

Start your day by heading to Avenida Amsterdam in Hipódromo, the heart of La Condesa. The avenue gets its shape from a former horse racing track. 

Median park along Avenida Amsterdam in Mexico City

Following the old horse racing track, Avenida Amsterdam is now a median green space in the heart of La Condesa.

Stroll along the central pedestrian median of Avenida Amsterdam and stop to gaze at La Fuente de la Glorieta Popocatépetl. The 1927 Art Deco fountain by José Gómez Echeverría is popularly known as the Bomba. The fountain consists of a dome supported by four white columns decorated with tiles. An aperture at the top allows sunlight to illuminate it, if only for a fleeting moment. 

Edificio San Martin in La Condesa, Mexico City

There are lots of Art Deco delights to discover while wandering around La Condesa, including Edificio San Martín.

As you wander this neighborhood, admire the Art Deco and Streamline Moderne doorways and façades of mansions and apartments that line the streets. The San Martin building, designed by Ernesto Ignacio Buenrosto, with its symmetrical entrance and canopy on Avenida México, perfectly characterizes the Art Deco style.

Wally’s all set for brunch at the cozy back patio at Frëims in La Condesa. He and Duke of course loved the mural.

2. Grab breakfast on Frëims’ charming back patio.

Fuel up for the day at one of our favorite spots in La Condesa, Frëims (Avenida Amsterdam 62B). The space occupies the renovated first floor of a former 1920s home reimagined as a bookstore, record shop and restaurant serving food and a variety of coffee drinks. 

We were seated at a table on the sun-dappled patio. While we were there, the gallery and garden wall mural featured a collaborative installation by Colombian artist Sofía Echeverri and Oaxacan illustrator Vero Anaya called The Origins of Knowledge. The artists describe their imaginative pieces as embodying the concept of “soróbora”: the juxtaposition of sorority, a society of women, and ouroboros, the snake that nurtures itself and symbolizes infinity by eating its own tail. 

Lemon pancakes at Freims restaurant

Lemon ricotta pancakes

Eggs Benedict at Freims restaurant

Eggs Benedict

I tried the lemon ricotta pancakes and Wally got his usual huevos benedictinos, paired with a coffee for me and a latte for Wally. We also ordered two Vecinos, a fresh-squeezed juice blend of pear, lime, cucumber and cardamom. 


Facade of Ojo de Agua in La Condesa, CDMX

ANOTHER BREAKFAST OPTION: Ojo de Agua in La Condesa


Dog park in Parque Mexico, Mexico CIty

A large section of Parque México is devoted to a dog park.

3. Take a walk in the park…Parque México, that is. 

Officially Parque San Martín, La Condesa’s large urban park was built on the former site of the elite Jockey Club de México — and everyone refers to it as Parque México now.  Built in 1927 the park is a favorite among families, dog walkers and skateboarders. 

Rollerbladers and others enjoying the Teatro al Aire Libre Coronel Lindbergh in Parque Mexico, Mexico City

This plaza, named for Charles Lindbergh, offers a space for dog walkers, children and rollerbladers to congregate.

Bougainvillea covering a pergola in Parque Mexico, CDMX

Bougainvillea covers the pergola that surrounds the open-air theater.

At the front of the park, there’s a communal space consisting of five pillars topped with a canopy and bordered by a pergola. The exterior walls are covered with graffiti and when we walked by, we watched a group of kids learning to rollerblade.

Fuente de los Cántaros in Parque Mexico in Mexico City

Nice jugs! El Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers) was modeled after Luz Jiménez, once the go-to model for indigenous Mexicans.

Standing serenely in front of the open-air Teatro al Aire Libre Coronel Lindbergh, named in honor of the American aviator, is a concrete figure of a nude woman holding a pair of jugs (literally). Known as Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers), it depicts Luz Jiménez, who modeled for its creator, José María Fernández Urbina, as well as Diego Rivera and Tina Modotti. She was considered the it girl archetype of the Mexican indigenous woman.

Clock tower fountain in Parque Mexico, CDMX

This clock tower with Art Deco ironwork, designed by Leonardo Noriega, has bells that chime to mark the hour.

Every visitor to Mexico City should spend some time in this colonia — if not use it as a base, as we did, staying in the delightful and chic Octavia Casa. –Duke

8 Reasons to Visit Marsa Alam, the Hot, New Egypt Beach Destination

Much more laidback than Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh, Marsa Alam offers pristine sea life for scuba divers and snorkelers, European-style service, desert excursions and nearby Wadi El Gemal National Park. And, of course, there are the dugong sea cows.

Sea turtle in the Red Sea

Not too long ago, Marsa Alam, Egypt was known only as a hidden gem for divers. The secret’s getting out — and the area is rapidly developing as a more laidback alternative to the northern Red Sea beach party destinations.

Home to one of the oldest ancient civilizations in the world, Egypt is a mysterious and fascinating travel destination that should be on your radar. However, the pyramids, temples and tombs are only the beginning — it's also a beach destination bordering both the Mediterranean and Red Seas. Located on the western shore of the Red Sea, the town of Marsa Alam offers a less-crowded alternative to Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada.  

Not long ago, Marsa Alam was a small fishing village whose only tourists were avid in-the-know scuba divers. In recent years, though, it has grown into a promising European-style resort destination. Almost directly east of Edfu on the Red Sea, it’s farther south than most other beach towns in Egypt. 

There’s a small international airport that services Marsa Alam, though it’s actually an hour or so north, in Port Ghalib. Whether you’re looking to relax and enjoy pristine sand beaches, high-quality luxury accommodations, desert trekking, or exploring the abundant sea life, there’s something for everyone here. 

Another gorgeous sunrise at Marsa Alam — which you’ll be up to see since you weren’t partying till the wee hours at the club

8 Reasons Why Marsa Alam Is Becoming a Hot Travel Destination

More and more tourists are skipping Cairo and heading to the beach resorts of Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh. However, Marsa Alam is one of the newest destinations and is quickly rising in popularity. Here’s why you should consider this up-and-coming hotspot in Egypt. 

Gorgeous reef teeming with sea life in Marsa Alam, Egypt

This part of the Red Sea isn’t yet crowded or polluted — and the aquatic life is stunning.

1.   An untouched underwater world

Thanks in large part to its remote location, the underwater world of Marsa Alam is more wild and currently less affected by tourism — a real paradise for divers and snorkelers.

dugong sea cow

Who doesn’t love dugongs, this area’s version of the manatee?

Schools of exotic fish, vibrant coral reefs, sea turtles, dolphins and dugong sea cows can all be found in this part of the Red Sea. And if you’re not a fan of snorkeling or diving, there’s always the option of booking a glass-bottom boat excursion to enjoy the wonders of this enchanting underwater world.

Pier going into the Red Sea at Marsa Alam, Egypt

First and foremost, Marsa Alam is a beach destination, where you can relax on the sand, swim, snorkel and scuba dive.

2.   Gorgeous beaches

The beach stretches for over 30 miles (50 kilometers). Almost every hotel has its white sand beach — a great place to admire the sunrise. 

And because Marsa Alam isn’t as crowded as Hurghada or Sharm el-Sheikh, it’s a good option for families with children. There’s a calmness to this region for those who want the opportunity to be alone with nature.

Pool at night at Lazuli Hotel in Marsa Alam, Egypt

The Lazuli Hotel in Marsa Alam is just one of many luxury resorts popping up in the area.

3.   High-quality service

Tourists here mainly hail from Germany, Poland, Austria and the Czech Republic, giving Marsa Alam a European feel. In fact, unlike other resort destinations in Egypt, prices are in euros. And for those of you who have experienced bad service elsewhere in Egypt, you shouldn’t find it in Marsa Alam. 

It is also worth noting that, unlike other beach hotspots, vendors and travel services representatives aren’t as pushy here. 

Beach with umbrellas and chairs at Marsa Alam, Egypt

Even the winter isn’t too cold in Marsa Alam, and most beaches are protected from the infamous Egyptian winds.

4.   Good weather

Because Marsa Alam is farther south than other beach resorts, the enviable climate is warmer, especially in winter, when the temperature averagess between 60 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit — making it a comfortable holiday destination all year round. Also, most hotels have bays that are protected from the infamously strong Egyptian winds. 

Roman ruins at Wadi El Gemal National Park, Egypt

Explore the ancient Roman ruins at Wadi El Gemal National Park.

5.   Excursions and activities

Marsa Alam is a place where you can swim for hours, ride an ATV in the desert next to the sea, and visit nature reserves and national parks. 

Wadi El Gemal National Park (Valley of the Camels) is a must-do day trip just 28 miles (45 kilometers) to the south of Marsa Alam. It’s the third largest park in the East Arabian Desert, consisting of 1,840 square miles of land and 810 square miles of marine life. Here you have the opportunity to observe rare birds and animals as well as wander among the ruins of temples and other buildings that date back to Ancient Rome!  This area was known as the Emerald Mountains and supplied the empire with green beryl gemstones.  

White Desert National Park natural formations in Egypt

Take a day trip to marvel at the natural sculptures in White Desert National Park.

6.   Awesome deserts

If you want a break from the beach, then a trip to the Sahara el Beyda is a great option, with its stunning scale and boundless space. The surreal chalk-white landscape, punctuated by natural sculpture shaped by the harsh desert winds, is now a protectorate known as White Desert National Park. 

Four-wheeler on the dunes of Sahara el Beyda desert in Egypt

Who says Marsa Alam has to be relaxing all the time? Hop on an ATV and go for a ride in the dunes of the nearby desert.

To me, the desert represents freedom. Don’t worry about it getting too hot — it’s particularly pleasant even in the spring. Go for a ride on a quad bike or jeep, ending with a trip to the closed nature reserve beach to look for giant shells and pieces of coral. The sand here rivals that of the Maldives in its whiteness.

Swimming pool at Iberotel Costa Mares hotel in Marsa Alam, Egypt

The Iberotel Costa Mares is but one of several five-star hotels in the Marsa Alam area.

7.   New world-class hotels and resorts 

So many four- and five-star hotels to choose from! They stretch along the coast in either direction from Marsala Alam. Yes, they are right on the beach — but, at the same time, there is a lot of greenery here. The staff will set you up with sports, wellness treatments and other activities. 

8.   Tourist infrastructure

Pharmacies, shops, bars and restaurants are popping up all over town. You can also head to neighboring Port Ghalib, about an hour away, to eat at one of the restaurants there.

Dromedary on sand at edge of the Red Sea in Egypt

Marsa Alam, where the desert meets the Red Sea

Oh-So-Chill Marsala Alam 

Compared to other popular resorts in Egypt, Marsa Alam is much more relaxed. This is an opportunity to experience amazing beaches and sea life away from noisy tourists and discos. But, like many other on-the-rise destinations, it might not be long before Marsa Alam becomes overcrowded. I recommend going sooner than later. –Isabelle Jordan

 

Also in the area

Temple of Horus at Edfu, Egypt

Edfu is a little over three hours away, directly west.

Paseo de los Gigantes and the Plaza del Bebedero

Parque Los Bebederos once hosted fashionable events, which the modern architect Luis Barragán would use as a sales pitch to entice homebuyers to the Mexico City suburb of Las Arboledas. 

Two men among trees at Parque Los Bebederos

Our guide, Martín, with Duke, got us to appreciate even this park, showcasing works by Barragán that have fallen into disrepair.

Paseo de los Gigantes. Promenade of the Giants. An evocative name — but when you visit, you might wonder where these mythical monstrosities can be found. 

Stop and look around this green space outside of Mexico City. The answer is right in front of your eyes. See the tunnel of majestic, gnarled bark eucalyptus trees? Those are the giants for which the park is named.  

Eucalyptus tree at Los Gigantes

A massive, gnarled eucalyptus tree — one of the namesake “giants” of this linear park

It was our last stop on our half-day tour of Luis Barragán’s suburban designs: Torres de Satélite, Fuente de los Amantes and the amazing Cuadra San Cristóbal

Barragán was fond of designing paseos. These long, thin green spaces now act as medians dividing grand boulevards, but they were once country paths used for horseback riding.  

For this is horse country, a suburban enclave for equestrian aficionados northwest of CDMX. In fact, the main purpose of this particular linear park was to generate interest in the local community of Las Arboledas. Los Gigantes was a social hotspot, offering stands to view races at the horse track that once stood here. (Nothing remains, sadly — all you can see now are homes. It would have been cool if they had incorporated the track to shape the neighborhood like they did in La Condesa with Avenida Amsterdam.)

These narrow parks, set along medians, followed old country roads once used for horse riding.

Old viewing stands at Los Gigantes

The faded red viewing stands were used for social events to watch horses gallop around a no-longer-existent racetrack.

Barragán held events in Los Gigantes, though little evidence of its fashionable past remains. The park is but a shadow of its former glory. 

As with Frank Lloyd Wright, some of Barragán’s designs might have looked impressive but just don’t stand the test of time. A fountain here with a bright tangerine-colored backdrop lacked a proper foundation (not to mention was a colossal waste of city water), and the basin has been drained. 

While we gazed upon it, a guy on a BMX bike kept riding through the empty fountain, treating it as a ramp to practice his tricks and jumps. 

Orange drained fountain at Los Gigantes

Barragán’s orange fountain at Los Gigantes is now drained. Its foundation was sinking — and it used quite a bit of city water.

The red concrete viewing stands look outward, away from the park, once facing the horse track. Tucked behind a wall, there used to be a bar where people would get refreshments to enjoy the show, our guide, Martín, told us.

“I wish it was still a bar,” I muttered. 

Large tree and red concrete stands at Los Gigantes

The red structure in the background once housed a bar for fancy cocktail parties Barragán would host to lure rich horse enthusiasts to buy land in the local development.

All this spectacle was designed to attract the CDMX élite. “Barragán was clever,” Martín continued. “In essence, he was saying, ‘This prestigious life could be yours. You can raise your kids here. Why don’t you buy a piece of land?’”

Barragán grew up with horses and was passionate about the equestrian lifestyle — but he was also, one imagines, well paid to promote the area. 

White and blue walls at Parque Los Bebederos

The blue wall marks the end of the park.

Plaza del Bebedero

Continuing along in the park, we came to the Plaza y Fuente del Bebedero (Plaza and Fountain of the Trough. The long, thin rectangular horse trough, like the other fountain, is now empty. 

The trough is considered the centerpiece of the green space — in fact, the area is sometimes called Parque Los Bebederos (although there’s only one).

Fuente del Bebedero

The Fuente del Bebedero (Fountain of the Trough) used to be a watering hole for horses but is now empty.

A white wall nearby acts as one of the canvases for the play of shadows that’s a Barragán trademark.

White wall by Barragán at Parque Los Bebederos

A white wall in Parque Los Bebederos was one of Barragán’s famous screens for the play of shadows.

And closing off the space is an indigo wall. “It’s the perfect device to separate the park from the city,” Martín said. He’s a huge fan of Barragán — and now we are, too. 

blue wall in Plaza del Bebedero

The blue wall in Plaza del Bebedero seen from another angle

Old orange storage building at Los Bebederos

The orange building is administrative and was where Barragán stored the supplies for the parties held in Parque Los Bebederos.

Wandering through Los Bebederos, which has changed so drastically since its heyday, I couldn’t help but wish we had been able to experience the Promenade of the Giants when it was a big deal — sipping a cocktail while cheering on the horses racing around the track. –Wally

 

Parque Los Bebederos (Los Bebederos Park)

Avenida Paseo de los Gigantes
Las Arboledas
52950 Cuidad López Mateos
México

10 Most Instagrammable Places in Mexico City's Centro

A photographer’s tour of the CDMX historic district, from the Palacio de Bellas Artes to the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México.

CDMX, as the cool kids call it, is full of stunning design, a mind-blowing mix of colonial architecture and modern marvels. Here are some of our favorites to help you get started on a cultural and Insta-worthy tour of the city’s historic heart.

Centro Histórico

A chandelier hangs above the holy ark

A chandelier hangs above the holy ark

The second and third floors of the Sinagoga Histórica have some beautiful elements

The second and third floors of the Sinagoga Histórica have some beautiful elements

Look up to see the folk art-styled ceiling, with its gorgeous color pallette

Look up to see the folk art-styled ceiling, with its gorgeous color pallette

1. Sinagoga Histórica Justo Sierra 71

Start your tour with this hidden gem, built and established by the Ashkenazi, Eastern European Jews who arrived in Mexico City as refugees escaping persecution in the early 1940s. The Historic Synagogue, or Templo Nidje Israel, is entered through an interior courtyard beyond the building’s colonial façade (and a somewhat grumpy guard).

The interior contains a rather plain assembly hall on the first floor, but the sanctuary located on the second floor is impressive, said to be modeled after a synagogue in Lithuania. Make sure to look up at the vaulted clerestory ceiling intricately painted in hues of rust, mustard yellow, blue and green. An elaborately carved platform stands in the center of the room and faces the richly ornamented aron kodesh, or holy ark, surrounded by folk art elements typical of Eastern European villages. The sacred Torah scrolls were once kept behind the blue velvet curtain panel embroidered with silver thread.

Justo Sierra 71

What seemed to be a bizarre fantasy video game ad was playing in the courtyard while we visited

What seemed to be a bizarre fantasy video game ad was playing in the courtyard while we visited

Open archways line the corridors of the ex-college

Open archways line the corridors of the ex-college

You’ll spot murals all over the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso

You’ll spot murals all over the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso

2. Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso

A block or so down from the synagogue is a former Jesuit boarding school that has since been transformed into a museum and cultural center. After the Jesuits were expelled from the city, the building temporarily served as barracks for the Mexican army before becoming the National Preparatory School. The site is considered to be the birthplace of the Mexican muralism movement and features murals painted by David Alfaro, José Clemente Orozco (Wally’s personal fave) and Diego Rivera.

Justo Sierra 16

La Casa de las Sirenas is located within one of the first colonial mansions in Mexico City

La Casa de las Sirenas is located within one of the first colonial mansions in Mexico City

Our al fresco meal was delicious

Our al fresco meal was delicious

Grab a bite on the rooftop terrace, which overlooks the back of the cathedral

Grab a bite on the rooftop terrace, which overlooks the back of the cathedral

3. La Casa de las Sirenas

The frieze on the façade of this former 17th century colonial abode features a Caravaca cross flanked by a pair of mermaids, which gives the restaurant its name, the House of the Mermaids.

We ate a delicious lunch on the rooftop terrace with a spectacular view overlooking the extremely disappointing Templo Mayor and the back of the impressive Catedral Metropolitana, while an organ grinder played a whimsical tune over and over from the street below.

República de Guatemala 32

The Metropolitan Cathedral organ

The Metropolitan Cathedral organ

This over-the-top golden altar is just one of many inside the massive cathedral

This over-the-top golden altar is just one of many inside the massive cathedral

Saints galore in various niches in this Baroque church — note the highly realistic detail on his hand

Saints galore in various niches in this Baroque church — note the highly realistic detail on his hand

4. Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

This massive Baroque-style cathedral dominating the northern side of the Zócalo plaza was built in stages between 1573 to 1873, shortly after Hernán Cortés and his conquistadors defeated the Aztec Empire. Among the oldest and largest cathedrals in the Americas, much of it was built using stones pilfered from the Templo Mayor. (Maybe that’s why the temple’s ruins are so unimpressive.) Step inside to see the large, ornate Altar of the Kings, collection of paintings, pipe organ and statuary.

Plaza de la Constitución s/n

Pop into the lobby of the Gran Hotel to marvel at the stained glass ceiling and ironwork

Pop into the lobby of the Gran Hotel to marvel at the stained glass ceiling and ironwork

The curving balconies and organic grillwork on the cage elevators make this Art Nouveau gem worth a shot or two

The curving balconies and organic grillwork on the cage elevators make this Art Nouveau gem worth a shot or two

5. Gran Hotel Ciudad de México

After binge-watching the Spanish soap series Gran Hotel on Netflix, we had to go inside this historic Art Nouveau gem of the same name. It was originally the city’s most luxurious department store, known as el Centro Mercanti — in fact, you can still see the monogram “CM” in the stained-glass ceiling designed by French glass artist Jacques Grüber as well as the railings. Fun fact: The interior is featured in the opening scenes of the James Bond film Spectre.

16 de Septiembre 82

This building is known colloquially as the House of Tiles

This building is known colloquially as the House of Tiles

This distinctive tiled building is now a Sanborns department store

This distinctive tiled building is now a Sanborns department store

6. Casa de los Azulejos

Meaning “the House of Tiles” in Spanish, the exterior of this 16th century building is embellished with tin-glazed ceramic tilework known as azulejos, from Puebla, Mexico. The property was originally the residence of the Valle de Orizaba counts, one of the wealthiest families in the country. It was purchased by brothers Walter and Frank Sanborn in 1919 and converted into the flagship location of Sanborns, a Mexican department store and restaurant chain.

Av Francisco I. Madero 4

Since you’re in the area, you should pop into the Palacio Postal just to check out the amazing staircase

Since you’re in the area, you should pop into the Palacio Postal just to check out the amazing staircase

Things are looking up at the Postal Palace

Things are looking up at the Postal Palace

7. Palacio Postal

Also known as the Correo Mayor, the Postal Palace was built by Italian architect Adamo Boari and Mexican engineer Gonzalo Garita and has been in continuous operation since it first opened in 1907. The interior was restored to its original gilded splendor with the help of Boari’s granddaughter, who had the original building plans in Italy. The money shot is of a pair of grand interconnecting staircases embellished with vegetal brass balustrades that almost appear to be alive. My only regret is that we weren’t able to send a postcard home while there.

C. Tacuba 1, Cuauhtémoc

To get this money shot, you have to go into the Sears department store across the street

To get this money shot, you have to go into the Sears department store across the street

8. Palacio de Bellas Artes

We didn’t get to go inside on this visit. But the secret to an amazing aerial shot is to head over to the Sears department store directly across the street. (If you don’t want to have a snack or drink on the balcony café, just go up one more floor and press your camera against the glass as we did.)

Designed by the same architect as the Palacio Postal, the building’s gorgeously photogenic Art Nouveau exterior is topped by a lattice of iron and a shimmering iridescent ombre-tiled dome. At the very top, the Mexican eagle perches on a cactus with a serpent in its beak, with the four figures beneath representing the personifications of the dramatic arts.  

The plaza includes various sculptures, including four Pegasus statues designed by Catalan Agustí Querol Subirats, as well as the famous Mexico City Olympics logo — way too popular with tourists to get a good picture of.

Av. Juárez

The Hemiciclo a Benito Juárez monument

The Hemiciclo a Benito Juárez monument

A large green space sits right next to the plaza of the Palacio de Bellas Artes

A large green space sits right next to the plaza of the Palacio de Bellas Artes

9. Alameda Central

This leafy park was created in 1525 on what was previously the site of an Aztec marketplace. Its name comes from the word alámo, Spanish for poplar tree — which can be found in abundance throughout the park. You’ll encounter children playing in empty fountain basins and locals of all ages meandering or sitting on benches along the many paths. The Kiosco Morisco was located there briefly and used as a pavilion to announce lottery winners before being moved to make way for the semicircular Neoclassical Hemiciclo a Benito Juárez monument, dedicated to the former Mexican president.

Av. Hidalgo s/n

This fountain is right across from Alameda Central and is worth a quick visit to get the Insta shot

This fountain is right across from Alameda Central and is worth a quick visit to get the Insta shot

Governmental buildings and the Museum of Memory and Tolerance surround the fountain

Governmental buildings and the Museum of Memory and Tolerance surround the fountain

País de Volcanes (Country of Volcanoes) by Ricardo Legorreta

País de Volcanes (Country of Volcanoes) by Ricardo Legorreta

10. Fuente de Vicente Rojo

Across from Alameda Park, tucked into the courtyard of the Museo Memoria y Tolerancia surrounded by governmental offices is a fountain designed by Mexican visual artist Vicente Rojo and architect Ricardo Legorreta. Titled País de Volcanes (Country of Volcanoes), it features more than 1,000 small burnt red concrete pyramids emerging from a sunken reflecting pool, a reference to the coarse volcanic tezontle stone widely used by the Aztecs. –Duke

Av. Juárez 44

A Perfect Afternoon in Artsy Coyoacán

Follow our six-stop walking tour of Mexico City’s bohemian neighborhood, including Plaza Hidalgo and Los Danzantes restaurant.

After visiting Frida’s house, explore the boho hood of Coyoacán and purchase some traditional regional handicrafts at the artisanal market.

After visiting Frida’s house, explore the boho hood of Coyoacán and purchase some traditional regional handicrafts at the artisanal market.

There’s much to do in the charming neighborhood of Coyoacán beyond La Casa Azul, the lifelong home and studio of famed Mexican painter Frida Kahlo.

The municipality’s name comes from Coyohuacan, Nahuatl for “the Place of Coyotes.” This colonia, or neighborhood, features meandering streets filled with well-preserved colonial buildings, delicious restaurants and handicraft markets waiting to be explored.

You’ll see balloon vendors all over CDMX.

You’ll see balloon vendors all over CDMX.

All you’ll need for a perfect afternoon in Coyoacán is a comfortable pair of shoes and a sense of adventure — the area is walkable, and all of the stops listed below can easily be explored by foot.

The Fuente de los Coyotes in Coyoacán

The Fuente de los Coyotes in Coyoacán

Make a Splash

Stop 1: Plaza Hidalgo

Your journey begins in the historic heart of Coyoacán, just a few blocks from La Casa Azul. On Avenida Francisco Sosa, you’ll find not one, but two public squares: Jardín Centenario, which memorializes the 100th anniversary of Mexico’s independence, and the Plaza Hidalgo. Together they form a typical colonial town square, complete with benches for people-watching, gazebos for music and vendors selling balloons.

Near the entrance of Plaza Hidalgo, a street artist was selling woven palm-leaf crickets. We purchased a pair for 50 pesos each (about $2.50), and as the vendor was handing them to us, a woman seated on a nearby bench offered her advice by telling us to use hairspray to keep them green.

People push crickets on you everywhere you go in Mexico City. These palm ones are more appetizing than the ones in the croquetas we ate.

People push crickets on you everywhere you go in Mexico City. These palm ones are more appetizing than the ones in the croquetas we ate.

Here you’ll find a circular stone fountain known as the Fuente de los Coyotes, or Fountain of the Coyotes, the animals from whom the borough takes its name. The iconic landmark occupies the center of the plaza and features two bronze coyotes by sculptor Gabriel Ponzanelli. Numerous spouts located around the perimeter spray graceful arcs of water into the air over the playful pair.

Be sure to stop into the exquisite Iglesia de Coyoacán, the large cathedral, across the way.

Ignacio Allende Esquina Avenida Miguel Hidalgo

Grab a bite on the patio of Los Danzantes, just off the park, for good food and people-watching.

Grab a bite on the patio of Los Danzantes, just off the park, for good food and people-watching.

Let’s Dance

Stop 2: Los Danzantes

On the periphery of the square is Los Danzantes, the Dancers, a multi-story restaurant in a colonial-era building with panoramic views of the park. Wally’s coworker Juls lived in Mexico City, and this is one of her favorite restaurants. We were seated outside on the patio terrace, and similar to the cafés of Paris, it was a great place to watch the world go by and enjoy a leisurely meal. While we were there, a guitarist paused for a moment as he passed by, looking to see if there might be an interested party willing to pay him to play a song or two. The restaurant also has its own mezcal distillery and grows seasonal produce in garden plots called chinampas in Xochimilco.

The bar at Los Danzantes

The bar at Los Danzantes

We had ceviche, cricket croquetas and hoja santa (holy leaf), a local specialty stuffed with goat cheese.

We had ceviche, cricket croquetas and hoja santa (holy leaf), a local specialty stuffed with goat cheese.

Mezcal and a mariachi are all it takes to make Duke happy.

Mezcal and a mariachi are all it takes to make Duke happy.

Plaza Jardín Centenario 12

Look for these yellow arches across from the Jardín Centenario to enter the handicraft market.

Look for these yellow arches across from the Jardín Centenario to enter the handicraft market.

Get Crafty

Stop 3: Mercado Artesanal Mexicano

After lunch, visit the Mexican Craft Market and walk beneath garlands of fluttering papel picado, colorful cut-tissue paper bunting. The two-story market has dozens of craft stalls featuring a wide variety of traditional Mexican handicrafts and regional specialties from all over the country, all in one place.

You’ll spot the coyotes for which the colonia is named all over the place.

You’ll spot the coyotes for which the colonia is named all over the place.

Colorful skulls on offer at the craft market

Colorful skulls on offer at the craft market

We headed upstairs first, but it seemed to be endless stalls of tattoo artists and not many handicrafts. The first floor, though, was more our speed. Wally and are were especially drawn to the colorful Oaxacan alebrijes, traditional folk art depicting fantastical creatures embellished with brilliant patterns and colors. (We have a thing for the surreal.) Each small wooden totem is carved by hand, often using nothing more than a simple pocket knife. We brought home a strange little skeleton, a green and orange insect and a black cactus with a bright pink flower and hummingbird on top of it.

When I purchased an unusual-looking doll made from a bulbous gourd with coarsely braided rope pigtails, two tiny breasts and coconut shell limbs (200 pesos, or $10), Wally replied, “You like things that look old, are a little bit cuckoo and are unlike anything we’ve seen elsewhere.” He knows me so well.

Stalls often sell the same crafts at different prices, so shop around — but don’t expect to bargain for a lower price.

Felipe Carrillo Puerto 25


coyoacanchurchaisle.jpg

BONUS STOP!

Pop into la Iglesia de Coyoacán (aka Parroquia San Juan Bautista) across the square.

The façade looks plain, but the inside is awash in gilded niches, sweeping arches and hand-painted ceiling frescos, with a peaceful cloister around back.

If that hasn’t convinced you, you can hunt down the creepy life-size mannequins of Christ and a dead baby!


Grab a coffee and snack at Panadería Pública.

Grab a coffee and snack at Panadería Pública.

Take a Coffee Break

Stop 4: Panadería Pública

If shopping has worn you out, we recommend stopping for a delicious pastry paired with a great cup of coffee at the Panadería Pública for an afternoon pick-me-up. There’s an array of options here, including traditional conchas, campesinos and orejas, as well as French baguettes, croissants and pain au chocolat to name a few. I ordered a café con leche and Wally got his latte con leche light. We also purchased a pastelito de guayaba, a puff pastry similar in size and shape to a turnover, filled with cream cheese and guava paste. Stop to chat with the friendly staff.

Higuerra 22
La Concepción

The marigold yellow façade of La Conchita has seen better days but still has charm.

The marigold yellow façade of La Conchita has seen better days but still has charm.

Goin’ to the Chapel

Stop 5: Plaza de la Conchita

A short stroll southeast is the leafy Plaza de la Conchita in the colonia La Concepción, a quiet sanctuary that feels worlds away from the crowds of tourists visiting La Casa Azul just a few miles away. The small square contains a pale yellow, timeworn and weather-beaten beauty of the 16th century, the Churrigueresque, or Spanish Baroque-style, chapel known as La Conchita. One of the oldest in Mexico, it’s said that the conquistador Hernán Cortés ordered the church to be built on top of a Toltec altar soon after he settled in Coyoacán. The village was used as the base for the conquistadors after they conquered the Aztec Empire.

The church is designed in the Churrigueresque, or Spanish Baroque, style.

The church is designed in the Churrigueresque, or Spanish Baroque, style.

Duke sits on the steps around back.

Duke sits on the steps around back.

Unfortunately, the chapel was closed, so we couldn’t venture inside, but the building itself is a charming example of colonial architecture.

The fellas love to take jumping shots.

The fellas love to take jumping shots.

Golden hour made the church walls glow.

Golden hour made the church walls glow.

Fernández Leal
La Concepción

Teenagers practice salsa moves at the end of a striking, geometrical arbor.

Teenagers practice salsa moves at the end of a striking, geometrical arbor.

Park It

Stop 6: Frida Kahlo Park

Just steps from the Plaza de la Conchita is Frida Kahlo Park. Here you’ll find a menagerie of topiary animals at the entrance and a fountain with a bronze sculpture of a nude woman with her legs drawn up, also by Ponzanelli. A group of teenagers was practicing salsa routines under an arbor of bougainvilleas.

Like the coyote fountain in Plaza Hidalgo, this woman was sculpted by Ponzanelli.

Like the coyote fountain in Plaza Hidalgo, this woman was sculpted by Ponzanelli.

Wally loves Frida.

Wally loves Frida.

Is Diego jealous of Duke’s attention to Frida?

Is Diego jealous of Duke’s attention to Frida?

The park is a bit small in scale, but it’s worth stopping by to take a photo with the larger-than-life figures of Frida and Diego and to see the brightly colored mural by Dan Silva aka Polvoe, across the way on Tepalcatitla street.

The mascots of Coyoacán, as depicted by street artist Polvoe

The mascots of Coyoacán, as depicted by street artist Polvoe

A colorful mural across from Frida Kahlo Park caught our eye.

A colorful mural across from Frida Kahlo Park caught our eye.

Fernández Leal and Avenida Pacifico
La Concepción


Coyoacán was easily one of our favorite places we visited in CDMX. You can see why this enchanting and storied part of the city has attracted artists and intellectuals over the years. –Duke