Planning an Amalfi Coast road trip? From navigating cliffside curves to choosing the right towns and villas, here’s how to drive the coast without the stress and soak up every view.
A cinematic ribbon of pavement between sea and sky, the Amalfi Coast delivers lemon groves, pastel villages and some of the most beautiful — and nerve-testing — driving in Europe. Here’s how to do it right without losing your cool or your side mirror.
A road trip along the Amalfi Coast sounds romantic in theory. You picture music drifting through open windows, the Mediterranean glittering to your right, maybe a casual stop for espresso in a sun-bleached piazza. And then you arrive, take your first tight corner above a vertical drop and realize this isn’t a Sunday cruise at all. It’s a cliffside obstacle course with world-class scenery.
The famous drive between Sorrento and Salerno stretches only 31 miles (50 kilometers), yet it can easily take half a day once you factor in traffic, photo stops and the simple fact that you’ll want to pull over every five minutes just to stare. The road hugs the rock face, curls around lemon terraces and slips through towns that look like stage sets stacked above the sea. It’s absurdly beautiful — and just challenging enough to keep both hands glued to the wheel.
The Amalfi Coast Driving Part Will Test You
What most guides politely gloss over is how narrow this road really feels once you’re on it.
In several stretches, two cars passing each other seems more like a negotiation than a guarantee. Now add scooters weaving through gaps, delivery vans double-parked for a quick espresso and tour buses that appear around blind curves like moving buildings. The locals drive it daily and know every bend by heart. Visitors tend to creep along, wide-eyed, praying their mirrors survive.
That’s why the single best decision you can make happens at the rental counter.
Choose the smallest car available. Something compact and nimble from Fiat or similar will feel laughably tiny on the highway and absolutely perfect here. The tighter the road gets, the more grateful you’ll be for every inch you didn’t rent. A larger SUV might seem comfortable, but on the Amalfi Coast it quickly feels like trying to park a couch.
There’s also a directional trick seasoned drivers swear by. Travel counterclockwise — starting in Sorrento and heading toward Positano and then Amalfi. Going this way keeps you on the inside lane, closer to the rock wall rather than the cliff edge. It sounds minor until you’re rounding a bend and realize you’re not staring straight down into open air.
Planning Your Amalfi Coast Route Without Overthinking It
It’s tempting to treat the Amalfi Coast like a checklist: Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, done.
But this stretch of Italy doesn’t reward rushing.
Positano is the postcard — pastel houses tumbling down the hillside, linen dresses in every shop window and the kind of golden late-afternoon light that makes everyone look like they’re in a movie. Amalfi feels more grounded and lived-in, with its cathedral anchoring a busy piazza and ferries bobbing in the harbor. Ravello, perched high above it all, offers gardens and terraces where you can look out across the entire coast and feel deliciously removed from the traffic below.
Technically, you could drive the whole thing in a couple of hours. Realistically, you’ll enjoy it far more if you stretch the trip across two or three days. Otherwise you’ll spend most of your time hunting for parking spaces and watching the scenery through a windshield instead of wandering the streets with a gelato in hand.
Parking, fair warning, is its own adventure. Lots fill early, especially in Positano, and circling for half an hour isn’t unusual. Some travelers skip the stress entirely by parking in Sorrento and using the SITA Sud buses to hop between towns. It’s slower, yes, but wonderfully freeing if the thought of cliffside driving doesn’t thrill you.
The Best (and Worst) Times to Visit the Amalfi Coast
Timing can make or break an Amalfi Coast road trip.
July and August bring cinematic sunshine — and crowds to match. The road clogs, restaurants book out days in advance and parking starts to feel like a competitive sport. The heat bounces off the cliffs, tempers shorten and the whole experience can tip from charming to chaotic faster than you’d expect.
Shoulder season is the sweet spot. May, early June, September and early October offer warm days, swimmable water and a noticeably calmer pace. The towns feel more breathable. You can linger over dinner without being rushed. Locals seem happier to chat when they’re not bracing for peak-season overload.
September, especially, has that end-of-summer glow that makes everything feel softer and a little magical, as if the coast is finally exhaling after a busy few months.
Winter is quiet and moody, but many hotels and restaurants close entirely. Unless you’re specifically seeking solitude, it’s not the easiest introduction.
Where to Stay on the Amalfi Coast: Villas vs. Hotels
Accommodations along the Amalfi Coast often come at a premium, and hotel rooms can be surprisingly small for the price. After a long day of navigating curves and crowds, having a bit more breathing room makes a real difference.
That’s where a villa shines.
A kitchen means you’re not dining out for every meal. A terrace gives you sunset views that rival any luxury hotel. And perhaps most importantly, many villas include parking — which feels like a minor miracle on this coast. Instead of fighting for a spot in town each night, you simply drive home.
Look beyond the big names for better value and quieter evenings. Towns like Praiano and Furore keep you central while offering slightly gentler prices and fewer crowds. For travelers browsing Amalfi Coast villa rentals, sites like NCGVilla offer everything from modest hillside homes to sprawling estates with pools and sea views.
What Actually Matters on an Amalfi Coast Road Trip
By the end of the drive, something shifts. The stress fades and what you remember instead is the light on the water, the smell of lemons in the air and the way each town reveals itself slowly, like a secret.
Yes, the road demands your attention. Yes, parking will occasionally test your patience. But if you build in extra time, choose the right season and give yourself a comfortable base to return to each night, the Amalfi Coast becomes less of a challenge and more of a story you’ll be telling for years.
It’s not the easiest drive in Italy.
It might just be the most beautiful. –Alex Plinko


