Locke de Santa Joana Hotel in Lisbon: From Convent to Chic Retreat

Want to spend a few nights in a converted 17th century convent in Lisbon? Look no further than the apartment-like rooms of Locke de Santa Joana. 

For me, one of the best parts of planning any trip lies in finding the perfect home base — a place within walking distance of the sights we want to see, yet far enough removed to kick back and unwind at the end of a day spent exploring. 

After narrowing down our options for Lisbon, Portugal, Locke de Santa Joana was a no-brainer. The property’s about a 15-minute cab ride from Lisbon Airport, located near Marquês de Pombal Square and Avenida da Liberdade — Lisbon’s grand, tree-lined boulevard modeled after Paris’ Champs-Élysées. It’s also within walking distance of the barrios históricos (historic neighborhoods) of Baixa, Chiado and Bairro Alto, home to many landmarks, shops and cafés.

“Thanks to strict preservation laws, a large percentage of the original convent’s architecture remains untouched, including arches, columns and the azulejo tiles that can be seen throughout the hotel’s hallways.”

I was smitten from the moment Wally and I stepped into the lobby and passed Castro’s, the hotel’s in-house café. We were surrounded by a captivating mix of old and new: handpainted azulejo tiles unearthed during excavation, plush low-slung seating in rich hues of ochre, umber and cornflower blue, and clusters of tropical plants spilling from oversized terracotta pots, giving the space a laidback, residential warmth.

A Brief History of Locke de Santa Joana

The hotel occupies four distinct buildings — Arte, Beato, Convento and D. Álvaro —  naming conventions that pay homage to its heritage, notable historical figures and the original purpose of the structures. 

Inside, you’ll find preserved artifacts from the former Convento de Santa Joana de Lisboa (Convent of Saint Joana), dedicated to Joana of Portugal, the princess and daughter of King Afonso V and Queen Isabella of Coimbra, who later took her vows as a Dominican nun and was beatified for her devotion.

The convent’s story begins in 1699, when the first buildings were established by the Dominicans of the Order of Preachers. For centuries, the complex housed nuns who lived largely in seclusion through prayer, work and self-sufficiency. 

Its buildings were heavily damaged during the catastrophic earthquake that struck Lisbon on All Saints’ Day in 1755 but were later repaired. Over a century later, the convent was officially decommissioned following the death of its last nun, and the property passed to the state. Over the ensuing decades, the buildings fell into disrepair and were repurposed for various uses. The last known occupant before the site's transformation into Locke de Santa Joana was a modest office used by the police department’s traffic division.

Looking back, I realize that we’ve stayed in more than a few places formerly dedicated to monastic life. 

Casa Antonieta in Oaxaca, Mexico was originally part of the Convent of San Pablo before becoming a private residence and, eventually, a boutique hotel. While in Córdoba, Spain’s serene Judería, Los Patios de Pañuelos occupies what was once a bishop’s manor. There’s something undeniably special about staying in a place that has a story to tell.

The 370-room property is spread across four interconnected buildings, or blocks, with several offering views of the central courtyard terrace that houses the pool, outdoor bar and Santa Marta restaurant, located on Rua de Santa Marta, the street that provides an additional entrance to Locke de Santa Joana. The restaurant is open daily from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m., and serves Mediterranean fare, as well as wood-fired pizzas for when you’re craving something beyond traditional Portuguese cuisine. 

Fun fact: In Christian tradition, Santa Marta (Saint Martha of Bethany), sister of Lazarus and Mary, is the patron saint of hospitality, cooks, servants and innkeepers — basically the ultimate foodie and hostess. Makes you think the restaurant might have her blessing, don’t you?

The Rooms of Locke de Santa Joana

Architecture studio Saraiva+Ássociados designed the modern Beato wing, fittingly named after Santo António (Saint Anthony), the patron saint of Lisbon, who, according to legend, began the construction of the Convento do Beato (Convent of the Blessed) with just seven tostões, a small denomination of currency, given as alms. 

Inside, Lázaro Rosa-Violàn oversaw the design of the hotel’s communal spaces, which gracefully honor its monastic past while embracing its new purpose as a luxury hotel. The guest rooms reflect the refined, modern sensibility of Brooklyn-based Post Company, blending comfort and contemporary style in every detail. 

Thanks to strict preservation laws, a large percentage of the original architecture remained untouched, including arches, stone columns, and the aforementioned centuries-old azulejos that can be seen throughout the hotel’s winding white hallways.

Full disclosure: We found ourselves lost several times due to inner staircases that required a key card to pass through and elevators that served only specific floors. And we weren’t alone; we passed quite a few fellow guests shaking their heads, unable to figure out how to get where they wanted to go. 

We stayed in a Locke Studio in the Beato block for five nights, a space that perfectly balanced thoughtful design with understated comfort. The bathroom, tiled in dusty rose, featured a walk-in rainfall shower, thick cotton towels and toiletries by Kinsey Apothecary.

The queen-size bed was soft and inviting, and above it hung a framed textile by Peruvian artist Ana Teresa Barboza. Woven from dyed cotton and wool fibers, the piece reflected the colors of Lisbon and incorporated fragments of a geological map of Portugal, to create a layered, tactile homage to the city’s history. 

A curved wooden frame with subtly rippled glass separates the sleeping area from a well-equipped kitchenette, complete with a Nespresso coffee machine, washer/dryer, mini-fridge, dishwasher, sink, oven and two-burner induction cooktop. 

The kitchenette is a nice touch — we enjoyed being able to have leftovers for dinner one evening. 

There’s also a sofa that’s perfect for lounging and a small dining table and chair where you can linger over your morning coffee.

At one point, Wally peered down from our room’s large windows, saw a couple of young women lounging with books by the pool, and remarked that the scene gave him serious White Lotus vibes. 

Heads up — this isn’t your typical hotel. Housekeeping is limited to weekly service, or midway through longer stays, though extra cleanings can be arranged upon request. The upside? You get your own beautifully designed space to actually live in, not just stay in.

Food and Drink Options at Locke de Santa Joana

Breakfast is served daily from 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. at Santa Joana, the hotel’s namesake restaurant, located inside the centrally situated Arte building, which features the restored façade of the former 17th century convent. Like other guests, we entered through the courtyard and checked in with the host before going inside. 

The restaurant’s interior is a feast for the eyes, blending preserved architectural elements with contemporary design. Its grand dining room features soaring ceilings, pink marble tables, and a focal wall adorned with modern tribal masks reduced to geometric shapes in blush, brick and aubergine tones by Lisbon-based Grau° Cerâmica. Like the lobby, the room is filled with greenery, offering privacy between the tables and upholstered banquettes.

The indulgent buffet covers table after table, offering a variety of thinly sliced cured meats, including presunto, the Portuguese take on prosciutto, along with smoked salmon, local cheeses, fruit, yogurt and freshly squeezed juices, as well as a selection of freshly baked breads and pastries, including the legendary pasteis de nata. There are also self-serve hot options such as scrambled eggs, sausage, bacon and roasted potatoes.

Castro’s was our first stop before heading out each morning and offered a variety of pastries, sandwiches, cookies and of course coffee. I regret not purchasing a pistachio cookie but somehow found the willpower to restrain myself. 

We ended one evening at Kissaten (which Wally of course called Kiss & Tell), the hotel’s late-night Japanese jazz kissa — a listening bar where the soundtrack drifted from jazz to blues, rock, soul and singer-songwriter classics. The menu boasts Lisbon’s largest whiskey collection, curated by Glasgow-born expert Dave Broom. 

We loved the vibe of the dimly lit lounge and cozied up to the bar. I snapped a photo of the menu and sent it to my dad — he’s a bit of a connoisseur — who suggested Compass Box, but I ended up ordering the Spicy Mezcalita, a bright, smoky mix of mezcal, yuzu, lime and jalapeño. Wally went for the Plum, a smooth, refreshing blend of Japanese whisky, plum, sake and soda water. We probably would’ve ordered a second round if we hadn’t been getting up early the next morning for a tour of Castelo de São Jorge. 

Service and Amenitites 

From the moment we arrived, the genuine warmth and hospitality of the staff made a lasting impression. Everyone we met was friendly, attentive and went above and beyond to ensure our stay was as comfortable as possible. 

I overheard a man (one half of a couple who was checking out on the day we arrived) say to the concierge, “We didn’t get to enjoy the pool.” When the concierge asked why, he deadpanned, “Because we’re British.”

I’d packed our swimsuits knowing there was a pool, but, alas, like the British pair, the most we managed was to relax poolside on sun loungers with a cocktail one late afternoon. 

While Santa Joana is right in the thick of it, step inside, and suddenly, you’re in an unexpected oasis that feels about as far from the city chaos as you can get. 

So, if you’re looking for a chic Lisbon base beyond the traditional hotel format, Locke de Santa Joana is just the place. –Duke

Locke de Santa Joana

Rua Camilo Castelo Branco, 18
1150-084 Lisbon
Portugal 

The Creepiest Places to Visit in the United States

From a haunted prison to a hotel with its own morgue, here are five terrifyingly popular U.S. destinations for ghost hunters, thrill seekers and paranormal tourists.

Eastern State Penitentiary in Philadelphia, where solitary confinement originated

For those of us who like our vacations with a side of dread, the U.S. has you covered. Cursed plantations? Check. Derelict prisons? Yep. A floating hotel with a body count? You bet. These are the kinds of places where whispers echo in empty rooms, photos blur for no reason, and something unseen always seems to tug at your shirt.

Whether you’re a seasoned ghost hunter or just want to say you slept in the most haunted hotel in America, these are the must-visit spots that will make your heart race — and maybe stop.

1866 Crescent Hotel & Spa in Eureka Springs, Arkansas

Where the cancer cures were fake, but the bodies were real.

Originally built in 1886, the Crescent Hotel started as a luxury resort — and quickly spiraled into something much darker. After a short-lived first act, it was purchased in 1937 by Norman Baker, a con artist who turned the building into a sham cancer hospital. He operated without a license, performed grotesque procedures, and stored bodies in a basement morgue that still exists.

Back when the property was the Crescent College for Women

Guests and ghost hunters report sightings of Baker himself, nurses in old-timey uniforms, and figures wandering the halls at night. Want proof? You can join nightly ghost tours that take you to the most haunted corners of the property — including Baker’s old morgue.

1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa
75 Prospect Avenue
Eureka Springs, Akansas​

Eastern State Penitentiary in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Solitary confinement never really ends … if your ghost sticks around.

Once home to over 85,000 inmates — including Al Capone — this Gothic fortress pioneered solitary confinement, which sounded humane in theory and turned out to be more of a psychological torture chamber. The prison operated from 1829 to 1971 and is now a National Historic Landmark.

Its crumbling halls, rusted doors and echoing cellblocks give off a presence that’s hard to ignore. Visitors report disembodied voices, cell doors slamming on their own, and shadowy figures pacing inside locked cells. Cellblock 12 and the guard tower are said to be the most active — if you believe in that sort of thing. And even if you don’t, you’ll probably walk faster through them.

Sounds a bit like the derelict insane asylum attached to the Richardson Hotel in Buffalo, New York, which is also worth touring. 

If you’re also going to Pittsburgh, be sure to creep yourself out at Trundle Manor. 

Eastern State Penitentiary
2027 Fairmount Avenue
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

The Queen Mary in Long Beach, California

All aboard — for a cruise you’ll definitely want to disembark from.

This ocean liner hosted royalty, celebrities and WWII troops — and now ghosts. Docked permanently in Long Beach, the Queen Mary is considered one of the most haunted ships in the world.

Say hi to Jackie! She drowned in the pool but now giggles through the hallways.

Visitors regularly report paranormal activity, including screams, slamming doors and the ghost of a crewmember who was crushed by a watertight door in the engine room. Then there’s Jackie, the little girl who allegedly drowned in the pool and now giggles through the halls — creepy kid laughter being the ultimate test of your fight-or-flight response.

If you visit around Halloween (known to witches as Samhain), don’t miss the ship’s Dark Harbor event — a screamfest that brings its haunted legends to life.

​​The Queen Mary
1126 Queens Highway
Long Beach, California

St. Augustine Lighthouse in St. Augustine, Florida

Helping ships find the shore — and maybe helping spirits climb the stairs.

The current lighthouse was completed in 1874 — but the land has a longer, darker history. Tragedy struck during construction, when two young daughters of the superintendent drowned in the bay. Ever since, strange sightings have haunted the tower.

Visitors report hearing footsteps on the spiral stairs, catching glimpses of shadowy figures, and even being touched by something unseen. The Dark of the Moon tour takes you up the tower at night — just you, a flashlight … and your frazzled nerves.

St. Augustine Lighthouse & Maritime Museum
100 Red Cox Drive
St. Augustine, Florida

Myrtles Plantation in St. Francisville, Louisiana

Cursed ground, murder and ghosts with unfinished business. Southern hospitality not guaranteed.

The Myrtles has everything you could want in a haunted Southern plantation: hidden pasts, murder, mystery and a good chance of ghostly encounters. Built in 1796, the property is said to be cursed from the start, allegedly located on an indigenous burial ground. Several people died violently here, and stories of hauntings are as thick as the Spanish moss out front.

The enlarged section of this image is said to be the plantation’s famous ghost, a former slave named Chloe.

The most infamous ghost? Chloe — a formerly enslaved woman who was reportedly mutilated for eavesdropping and later hanged after poisoning members of the household. Her apparition has supposedly been caught in photos and is said to still roam the grounds. 

Other spirits include William Winter, shot on the porch in 1871, and his young daughter, who died of yellow fever.

The Myrtles Plantation
7747 U.S. Highway 61
St. Francisville, Louisiana

An aerial view of Eastern State Penitentiary, which is no longer operational — just attracting visitors who appreciate the macabre.

Haunted Hotspots

Some people go to the beach — others go looking for the ghosts of 19th century criminals. These haunted destinations deliver the perfect mix of history and horror, where the stories are real, the wallpaper is peeling, and the room you booked might come with a ghost you didn’t. –Armughan Zaigham

How to Plan a Romantic and Luxurious Getaway to Aspen

From skiing Aspen Mountain to spa days at the St. Regis, private fireside dinners, and stays at Hotel Jerome and The Little Nell, this guide unlocks the most romantic and luxurious experiences in Aspen.

Tucked high in the Colorado Rockies, Aspen isn’t just about the ski scene (though, yes, the powder is as perfect as you’ve heard). 

It’s a town where mountain air meets high-end indulgence, where you can spend your morning on the slopes and your evening sipping champagne fireside. 

Beyond the adventure, Aspen delivers serious romance with its charming streets, award-winning restaurants, plush accommodations and cultural gems that’ll sweep you off your snow-dusted feet.

Whether you’re celebrating a milestone or just need an excuse to spoil your favorite person, Aspen is your ticket to a getaway that feels straight out of a fairytale. All it takes is a little planning — and a touch of insider know-how. In this guide, we’ll share the tips and inspiration you need to craft an unforgettable romantic escape, full of swoon-worthy moments and luxe surprises.

Choosing the Perfect Time to Visit Aspen

When it comes to Aspen, timing matters. The town transforms with the seasons, each offering its own charm.

Seasonal Highlights in Aspen

• Winter (December–March): Snow-capped peaks, skiing adventures and cozy fireside evenings

• Spring (April–June): Blossoming flowers, fewer crowds and mild weather

• Summer (July–September): Warm, sunny days, ideal for hiking and picnics

• Fall (October–November): Vibrant foliage and serene landscapes for romantic photoshoots

Special Events in Aspen for Couples to Enjoy

The 2025 Winter Music Series adds cultural sophistication to Aspen’s natural splendor. The series opens on February 7, with acclaimed pianist Nikolai Lugansky performing classical masterpieces. 

The Grammy-winning Takács String Quartet follows on March 6, and renowned pianist Garrick Ohlsson concludes the season on March 20. All performances begin at 6:30 p.m. in the intimate Harris Concert Hall.  

Remède Spa at the St. Regis Aspen is pure mountain luxury — think of it as the crown jewel of Aspen’s wellness scene. According to the Aspen Chamber Resort Association, this full-scale resort spa goes above and beyond the city’s charming boutique day spas, offering an immersive experience that’s hard to top.

Your escape begins with a complete wellness circuit designed to refresh and rejuvenate. Get your heart pumping in the state-of-the-art fitness center, then melt away any tension with a visit to the hot tub, steamroom and cutting-edge infrared sauna. It’s the perfect balance of invigorating and indulgent.

Aspen’s Elite Accommodations

Aspen’s legendary hospitality scene offers an array of exceptional accommodations, each promising its own version of mountain luxury. From historic hotels to contemporary resorts, every property provides a scenic backdrop for your romantic escape.

The Little Nell

The Crown Jewels: Five-Star Resorts in Aspen

With an unrivaled setting at the foot of Aspen Mountain, the Little Nell is the only Forbes five-star, five-diamond hotel in Aspen. This intimate luxury resort brings the soul of Aspen to life with its ski-in/ski-out access and sophisticated charm.

The property’s Element 47 restaurant has earned its place as a culinary destination. Its sommelier-led wine cellar tours provide an exclusive glimpse into one of the country’s most impressive collections.

St. Regis Aspen Resort

The majestic St. Regis Aspen Resort, with its striking red brick façade and mountain backdrop, embodies timeless elegance. 

Beyond its luxurious rooms, the resort captivates guests with distinctive traditions like evening champagne sabering and their signature Bloody Mary ritual. The Velvet Buck restaurant serves refined mountain cuisine in a sophisticated setting. And, as mentioned earlier, the Remède Spa provides world-class treatments. 

Hotel Jerome

Boutique Luxury: Character Meets Comfort

Hotel Jerome weaves Aspen’s story into every detail, carrying on a legacy more than 135 years in the making.

This historic property seamlessly blends Wild West heritage with contemporary luxury, featuring rooms adorned with cashmere curtains and leather furnishings. The hotel’s living room has become the toast of Aspen’s social scene, while Felix Roasting Co. offers an ornate setting for your morning caffeine fix.

Limelight

Limelight provides a fresh take on mountain luxury with its contemporary design and vibrant atmosphere. 

Its 126 rooms offer modern comfort with classic alpine touches, while the hotel’s partnership with Audi ensures guests travel in style. 

The property’s lounge has become a local favorite for live music and après-ski gatherings.

Crafting Magical Moments in Aspen

Transform your mountain getaway into an unforgettable experience with thoughtfully planned surprises that capture the essence of romance in the Rockies.

The Gift of Timeless Elegance 

Many luxury brands showcase an exquisite selection of gemstones, including some of the rarest diamonds. In fact, diamonds come in 12 mesmerizing colors, with subtle variations in intensity and secondary hues that create over 230 unique combinations.

According to Leibish, a specialist in natural colored diamonds and high-end gemstones, these vibrant stones are the rarest of the rare — representing just a tiny fraction of the world’s diamond production. It’s this exceptional scarcity that makes colored diamonds the ultimate expression of love and luxury.

For a romantic and savvy choice, consider pink diamonds. These gems gracefully blend vibrant hues with feminine elegance and are among the most sought-after colored diamonds. Their charm goes beyond beauty — they’ve consistently proven to be a smart investment.

Personalized Adventures

Treat your partner to an exclusive after-hours gallery tour at Aspen’s renowned art venues. These private experiences allow you to immerse in the town’s vibrant art scene without the usual crowds, creating a truly memorable outing.

For a dose of adventure, plan a day packed with outdoor activities that let you soak up Aspen’s world-famous natural beauty. Of course, skiing is a must — this is one of the premier ski destinations in the United States, after all. With four major ski areas and 5,300 acres of skiable terrain, there’s plenty of powder to explore:

• Aspen Mountain (Ajax): Perfect for seasoned skiers

• Aspen Highlands: Known for the Highland Bowl’s steep descents, offering an adrenaline rush at 12,392 feet above sea level

• Buttermilk Mountain: Home of the Winter X Games, catering to all skill levels

Finally, cap off the day with an intimate, chef-prepared dinner by the glow of a crackling fire. This cozy, luxurious setting is the perfect way to unwind, savor the moment, and create memories you’ll treasure long after you’ve left the mountains behind.

Travel to Aspen FAQs

How many days do you need for Aspen?

A week in Aspen offers ample time to explore its diverse attractions, whether you’re into outdoor adventures, art or local cuisine. With plenty of events, including the Winter X Games at Buttermilk and Wintersköl on Aspen Mountain, there’s always something exciting to experience.

Is Aspen a good place to honeymoon?

Aspen is an ideal honeymoon destination, offering a romantic setting year-round. The town offers world-class skiing in winter and scenic hiking trails in the summer. It provides the perfect balance of adventure and romance for newlyweds. Aspen also boasts luxurious resorts, intimate spas and fine dining.

Is Aspen a wealthy city?

Yes, Aspen is known for its affluence. With a significant portion of its population possessing a net worth of over $30 million, it’s considered a playground for the wealthy. The area is home to many of the ultrarich, particularly in the exclusive Red Mountain neighborhood known as “Billionaire Mountain.”

Romantic Aspen 

While the champagne buzz may fade and ski tracks vanish under fresh powder, the genuine connections made in this mountain paradise will endure. These moments will echo far beyond your return home.

Perhaps that’s the real essence of luxury — not the thread count of the sheets or the vintage of the wine. Instead, it’s the priceless gift of undivided attention and shared wonder in one of nature’s most spectacular settings. –Mashum Mollah 

Discover the Best Luxury Hotels in Sydney and Melbourne for Different Types of Travelers

From foodie favorites to spa retreats, these luxury hotels in Sydney and Melbourne, Australia offer stays as unique as your travel style.

Sydney and Melbourne rank among Australia’s top destinations, each offering its own flavor of luxury. But choosing the right hotel depends on the kind of traveler you are. Are you a foodie chasing the next great meal? An architecture buff who wants a room with a view? Or someone who craves immersive cultural experiences from check-in to checkout? Whatever your travel style, I’ve rounded up the perfect luxury stays in Sydney and Melbourne based on your number-one priority.

“Are you a foodie chasing the next great meal?
An architecture buff who wants a room with a view?
Or someone who craves immersive cultural experiences from check-in to checkout? ”

Best Hotels for Foodies

If you’re searching for the best Sydney hotel deals with exclusive benefits start by thinking about what’s nearby — especially if you plan to eat your way through the city. For foodies, location can make or break a luxury stay. Here are two standout options, perfectly placed for gourmet adventures in Sydney and Melbourne.

Park Hyatt Sydney

📍 7 Hickson Road
    The Rocks
    Sydney, New South Wales 2000

Park Hyatt Sydney offers unbeatable harbor views and an address that’s steps from some of Sydney’s most iconic dining experiences. Start at the hotel’s own Dining Room — where floor-to-ceiling windows frame the Sydney Opera House while you enjoy dishes that celebrate local ingredients with global flair.

From there, wander over to Quay one of Australia’s most-awarded restaurants, known for its innovative cuisine and stunning water views. Craving steak? 6Head at Campbell’s Cove steakhouse serves premium cuts with a side of historic charm — it’s housed in one of Sydney’s oldest waterfront buildings.

Crown Towers Melbourne

📍 8 Whiteman Street
    Southbank, Victoria 3006

Over in Melbourne, foodie travelers flock to Crown Towers Melbourne — where luxury suites meet a built-in culinary wonderland. Located in the heart of Southbank, the hotel gives you direct access to a lineup of world-class restaurants.

Dine at Rockpool Bar & Grill for legendary steaks, or treat yourself to modern Japanese perfection at Nobu. Want a meal with a side of molecular magic? Dinner by Heston Blumenthal brings historic British dishes into the future — all without leaving Melbourne.

Best Hotels for Architectural Lovers

If you plan your stays based on how photogenic the lobby is (no shame), Australia’s got plenty of eye candy. From historic gems with stories in every brick to sleek modern marvels, these hotels are architectural destinations in their own right. Whether you’re a design devotee or just appreciate a good façade, here are a couple of stays that’ll make you swoon.

The Old Clare Hotel

📍 1 Kensington Street
    Chippendale, New South Wales

The Old Clare Hotel is where heritage charm meets industrial cool. Housed in a former brewery and pub, this Chippendale icon is all exposed brick, soaring windows and carefully preserved details. Even your room feels like a design exhibit — with a perfect mix of vintage finds and modern edge. And speaking of beer, the onsite pub and microbrewery mean you can admire the architecture with a pint in hand.

QT Melbourne

📍 133 Russell Street
    Melbourne, Victoria 

If your taste leans more bold and contemporary, check out (and check into) QT Melbourne. This design-forward hotel blends urban grit with playful art installations and luxe finishes at every turn. The real star? The rooftop bar, where you can sip a cocktail with panoramic views of Melbourne’s skyline. It’s the kind of place where you feel cooler just by walking through the door — and honestly, you just might be.

Best Hotels For Wellness-Minded Travelers

If your idea of luxury includes spa time, serene swims and a suite so calm it practically whispers, “Relax,” Sydney and Melbourne have you covered.

The Langham

📍 89-113 Kent Street
    Sydney, New South Wales

The Langham in Sydney blends five-star luxury with serious self-care. Start with a visit to the Day Spa by Chuan, where treatments draw from traditional Chinese medicine. Then drift over to the indoor heated pool, complete with a celestial ceiling that turns your swim into a full sensory escape.

The Lyall

📍 16 Murphy Street
    South Yarra, Victoria 

Over in Melbourne, the Lyall offers a boutique wellness retreat in the heart of one of the city’s most elegant neighborhoods. Think oversized suites with private balconies, a full-service spa known for its holistic therapies, and a tranquil location within walking distance of leafy parks and gardens.

Best Hotels for the Culture Lover

If you plan your trips around museums, galleries and creative vibes, Sydney and Melbourne both offer hotels that put you right in the cultural thick of things — with a little luxury on the side.

Ovolo Woolloomooloo

📍 6 Cowper Wharf Roadway
    Woolloomooloo, New South Wales

The name might be a mouthful, but Ovolo Woolloomooloo is a culture lover’s dream stay. Sitting right on the iconic Finger Wharf, this quirky hotel puts you within strolling distance of the Royal Botanic Garden and the Art Gallery of New South Wales. Plus, the hotel itself leans into bold design, creative energy and a playful vibe, so the art isn’t just outside — it’s everywhere you look.

The Olsen Melbourne

📍 637 Chapel Street
    South Yarra, Victoria

Over in Melbourne, the Olsen Melbourne offers a full-on art immersion. Part of the Art Series Hotels, the Olsen pays tribute to John Olsen, one of Australia’s most celebrated painters. Every room feels like a mini gallery, with Olsen’s work featured throughout the hotel. They even offer art tours and creative workshops, so you can live like an artist — or at least sleep like one. 

Best Hotels in Sydney and Melbourne for Every Type of Traveler

Whether you’re chasing harbor views in Sydney or art-filled stays in Melbourne, these hotels go beyond a place to sleep — they’re part of the experience. From foodie hotspots to wellness retreats and design-driven gems, we’ve rounded up the best hotels in Sydney and Melbourne for travelers who want more than just a standard check-in.

MORE: 8 Must-Visit Destinations Across Victoria, Australia

Wherever you land, don’t forget to time your visit wisely (off-peak = better deals) and stay close to what you love most, whether that’s top restaurants, must-see museums, or cultural landmarks that spark your curiosity. After all, the best trips start with the right home base. –Alexander Novak

From Bishop’s Manor to Boutique Haven: Los Patios del Pañuelo in Córdoba

Looking for places to stay in Córdoba, Spain? You’ll count your blessings when you experience the tranquil beauty of this sanctuary-like lodging in the Casco Antiguo, or Old Town. 

The entrance patio is furnished with a sofa, a set of barrel chairs and a low table. Because it was right outside the door to Apartment 2, we liked to think of it as ours — but were willing to share if need be.

There are certain places that leave a lasting impression long after you’ve left, and without a doubt Los Patios del Pañuelo is one of them. The aparthotel (get it? It’s sort of an apartment complex, sort of a boutique hotel!) is located within the UNESCO-listed Casco Antiguo, the historic Old Town of Córdoba, Spain and is where Wally and I recently stayed for two nights. Perhaps it was the weathered but rather grand brick arcades that reflect the passage of time, or the monastic tranquility of its communal courtyards, with their softly gurgling fountains. Or maybe, just maybe, it was its prime location. It’s close to the city center and less than a five-minute walk from the Mezquita, Córdoba’s magnificent mosque-cathedral. 

“When building the complex, the owners sought to unify three properties. The result is a harmonious blend of contemporary conveniences, restored period details, natural materials and exquisite craftsmanship.”

Wally leans against the Los Patios complex’s exterior wall in one the narrow pedestrian lanes that make Córdoba so charming — and provide a respite from the heat.

Finding Los Patios del Pañuelo

On the afternoon of our arrival, our cab driver dropped Wally and I off on Calle Rey Heredia and directed us to an opening between the shops, which marked the entrance to Calle Osio, the pedestrian-only passage where Los Patios del Pañuelo is located. The cobblestone thoroughfare is named after Hosius aka Osio, who was the first bishop of Córdoba from 295-357 CE.  

Before it was renamed for the cleric, the street bore the name Espalda de Santa Clara, which referred to the defunct Convento de Santa Clara. A 3-by-3-inch hand-painted tile displaying its old name remains securely affixed to one of the walls off the street. Osio is spelled out in tiles to the right, but only the O and S peek out from behind a circular red and white sign. We were a bit perplexed as we tried to orient ourselves.

Look closely: The mitre and crozier, symbols of a bishop, are visible above the entrance to Los Patios del Pañuelo.

Adding to our confusion was the irregular order of street numbers. As we were walking along the street in search of number 10, with our suitcase in tow, we came to a halt in front of a white powder-coated steel screen with the word “Patios…” laser-cut into it. Although the address didn’t match, we glimpsed a courtyard beyond and decided to ring the doorbell at the adjacent door. To our surprise, a short, older woman, in the midst of dyeing her hair, greeted us with a warm smile and a towel around her neck. She chuckled and told us to continue a bit farther up the street. We thanked her and resumed our journey. 

An interior window acts as a perfect frame for a view of the gorgeous courtyard beyond.

Eventually we found Los Patios del Pañuelo and entered the keyless security code we had been provided with prior to our arrival. Los Patios sits within the two-story 17th century manor that was the former residence of the aforementioned bishop, which extends into two adjoining properties (a mitre and crozier, the liturgical headdress and ceremonial staff of a bishop, can be seen above the entrance). 

Its name comes from Calleja del Pañuelo, the narrow alley that runs behind the last of the complex’s three interior courtyard apartments. If you’re as curious as I was about the name, it roughly translates to Handkerchief Alley. This is because the passageway’s width measures around 20 inches, or 50 centimeters — no wider than a fancy gentleman’s or a lady’s lace handkerchief, which was once a must-have accessory for high society.

A kinetic modern painting depicting the nativity, with Joseph, Mary and baby Jesus, by Kiko Flores, is displayed on the first patio and is a ode to the building’s previous life. 

Beyond the heavy wooden doors is a foyer with a reception desk and a set of numbered wall boxes corresponding to the apartments, where you can securely stash your key when you leave for the day. I found this feature to be liberating. A concierge, Maria, was present when we arrived to complete our check-in, and either herself or Judit can be easily reached during off-hours via WhatsApp.  

The living room area in Apartment 2, looking at the kitchen. We loved the zen-like calm the space evoked, and details like the wood-beamed ceilings.

A Stay in Apartment 2

Wally and I stayed in apartment 2, Antonio Jesús. Each of the 13 apartments has been named for the owner’s numerous children in order of age. The 14th bears his and his wife’s name, Antonio and Mati. 

Our apartment was equipped with air conditioning and situated on the ground floor off the first patio. We had an inviting outdoor seating area with a fountain, reached through the flat’s sliding glass doors. It served as a welcome retreat from the crowds and sweltering heat. During our three-day visit in early October, the city sizzled at a scorching 93°F (33°C). 

Clean lines and sleek cabinetry keep the kitchen uncluttered.

Upon entering the flat, we found a welcome basket filled with a carton of juice, milk, a loaf of brioche, and single-serve packets of olive oil, marmalade and Nutella placed on the coffee table in the living room and kitchen. The kitchen runs along one wall. It’s small but was equipped with a Nespresso coffeemaker, refrigerator, radiant electric cooktop and a washing machine, all neatly concealed within custom-made cabinets. 

This was the bedroom we chose to sleep in.

Apartment 2 has a second bedroom.

The muted palette matches the natural, earthy tones of weathered brick and stone of the courtyard, while the high, lofted ceilings evoke a distinctly Moorish influence. The bedrooms, serene and cozy, with thick stone walls and luxurious beds, afforded us a restful night’s sleep. 

The small but modern bathroom in Apartment 2

I admired the details throughout the apartment: the exposed wooden beams, natural stone floors, linen curtains and plaster walls. In addition, the bathroom features a rain shower and is stocked with orange and cedarwood-scented body care products by Rituals. 

Period details like the brick arches and columns were restored during the renovation and came from the nearby ancient city of Madinat al-Zahra. Be sure to explore each patio to appreciate each one’s unique beauty. 

A Heavenly Blend of Historic and Contemporary

When building the complex, the owners enlisted the expertise of local firm Amas Studio to unify the properties. The result is a harmonious blend of contemporary conveniences, restored period details, natural materials and exquisite craftsmanship.

During our stay, Wally and I explored the complex, which is divided into three zones. The first patio (we liked to think of it as ours) has columns with rounded Tuscan capitals, exposed sand-colored brick, and a square fountain. 

Every corner of Los Patios del Pañuelo pays homage to its past. This includes a stone fountain adorned with lion heads in the second terrace — an original fixture that’s been lovingly restored. 

The other courtyards feature columns topped with Arabesque designs. The second one has an octagonal fountain with a bowl adorned by four lion’s heads spouting water, encircled by a meticulously arranged mosaic created from thousands of rounded black and putty-colored river rocks, arranged into a pattern that radiates like sunbeams.

The best-kept secret of Los Patios is the balcony off the meeting room. The charming concierge recommended we go up there with some drinks to enjoy the sunset.

Los Patios del Pañuelo offers the advantage of catering to both short visits and extended stays and was the perfect home base for us. If you’re searching for a great place to spend a few days or more in Córdoba, your search can end here. –Duke

The name awkwardly translates to The Patios of the Handkerchief, referring to a narrow alley out back.

Los Patios del Pañuelo

Calle Osio 10
14003 Córdoba 
Spain 

 

The Richardson Hotel: A Night in a Former Insane Asylum

The hotel brings new life to a Buffalo, New York landmark. But does it deliver? 

I knew we had to stay at this iconic Buffalo building, an architectural landmark dating back to the late 1800s. 

I can still remember the clusters of vacant but majestic buildings of the Buffalo Psychiatric Center, bordering my alma mater. When I was an art student at Buffalo State College in the late 1980s, it had become a daily ritual for me. After parking my car, I would gaze beyond the chain-link fence at the fortress-like structures, imagining the possibilities of their reuse. That was over three decades ago.

In recent years, my dream of exploring the historic national landmark has finally come true. The grounds of the former mental asylum have been reintegrated into the city’s urban fabric and are now known as the Richardson Olmsted Campus. 

“When I shared that we were staying in a former mental asylum with my friends, they quipped, “Aren’t you worried it’s haunted?””

As a Buffalo native returning to visit family in Ellicottville, New York, I wanted Wally and me to add an extra day to revisit my old stomping grounds and stay overnight at the Richardson Hotel. In its previous iteration, it operated as the upscale Hotel Henry, which opened in 2017 but, due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, closed its doors four years later in 2021. 

The 88-room hotel occupies the central administration building and two adjacent wards, which are dwarfed by a pair of twin, verdigris roofed towers, a hue somewhere between green and blue. Additionally, it’s within walking distance of Elmwood Avenue and three world-class museums: the Buffalo AKG Art Museum, the Burchfield Penney Art Center and the Buffalo History Museum, the only remaining building from Buffalo’s 1901 Pan-American Exposition. 

The original campus was 203 acres but is now 42. The largest reduction in size occurred in 1927, when half of the land was used to develop Buffalo State College, Duke’s alma mater.

The Architecture of Madness

But first, here’s a bit about the landmark’s backstory. In June 1871, construction began on a grand new civic project: the Buffalo State Asylum for the Insane. Architect Henry Hobson Richardson designed the innovative facility away from the city center, on 203 acres of farmland, which eventually grew to include 11 buildings. Its parklike grounds were planned by the foremost landscape architects of the nation, Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux, whose Greensward Plan won them the commission to design New York City’s Central Park.

The monumental Richardsonian Romanesque asylum looked more like a stately manor than a state hospital. It’s anchored by a large central administrative building with two symmetrical sets of wards extending horizontally in an orderly V-shaped formation, like a flock of geese in flight. Its general layout was determined by Joseph Gray, head of the existing State Lunatic Asylum in Utica, New York, and based on the Kirkbride Plan, a geometric system of asylum architecture developed by 19th century American psychiatrist Thomas Story Kirkbride. 

Patients were segregated by gender and condition: one ward for male patients and the other for females. Those who required the most care were placed at the farthest ends of the institution’s wards. This was done to ensure that patients received the most appropriate care based upon the nature and seriousness of their illness. 

Olmsted applied his skills as a landscape architect to establish a buffer between the asylum and the outside world, aligning with Kirkbride’s philosophy of “moral treatment,” which advocated for a more humane approach to mental health care. He suggested to Richardson that the buildings should be oriented to face southeast, which would enable the spacious corridors to be  filled with natural light. You see, the asylum opened on November 15, 1880 — two years before the commercial introduction of electricity. 

Additionally, Olmsted surrounded the buildings with expansive lawns and trees, fostering a connection between the facility’s interior and its surrounding landscape, both of which were considered crucial for patients’ recovery.

Duke loves his detail shots — and this one is of the Minton tile inside the south entrance portico, the original entrance to the central building. 

A New Legacy 

Although the building was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1986, it wasn’t until two decades later that the nonprofit Richardson Center Corporation (RCC) was formed and subsequently intervened. Their objective was to own and redevelop the architectural treasure. The RCC raised funds to adapt a portion of the site, and the state of New York contributed $76 million to help jumpstart the ambitious project.

Following a seven-year conservation process, the public-private partnership focused on phase one, to reimagine the centuries-old complex by regreening the nine-acre South Lawn and adaptively reusing the central pavilion and two adjoining wings of the Medina sandstone building. TenBerke of NYC, Flynn Battaglia Architects of Buffalo, and Goody Clancy of Boston teamed up to undertake the overhaul, resulting in a boutique hotel, conference center and permanent home for the Lipsey Architecture Center, named for the late Stanford Lipsey, the former publisher of the Buffalo News and a champion for the city’s architectural revival. 

A key aspect of the redesign involved moving the main entrance to the north side of the four-story central administrative building, and enclosing it within a contemporary transparent steel and glass box. 

Fun fact: During renovation, the addition attached to the north side of the central building was demolished, revealing the original terracotta-colored grout between the blocks of muddy pink Medina sandstone. Don’t forget to pause and admire this before entering the hotel. 

When I shared my excitement about staying at the Richardson with my friends, they quipped, “Aren’t you worried it’s haunted?” In reality, the only apparitions I found were some of the aesthetic “improvements” made by the hotel’s new owners. 

The hallways at the Richardson feature warm globe lights and distinctive carpeting that evokes the decay of the abandoned wards.

Staying at the Richardson 

After the closure of Hotel Henry, Douglas Development purchased the property and rebranded it as the Richardson Hotel (which reopened on March 3, 2023). While I can appreciate the new owners’ intentions to establish their own identity, they had acquired a timeless and restrained turnkey property. Why junk it up?

For me, the addition of the porte-cochère was disappointing and feels out of place. It detracts from the commanding lines of the sandstone façade and obstructs artist Dániel Shafer’s graceful, rounded Spirit of Community sculpture. Incidentally, the addition of a herd of Buffalo statues doesn’t help. It’s not surprising, then, that the outdoor terrace that used to be above the atrium was dismantled — after all, who would want to overlook a canopy covered in corrugated steel? 

I’ll say it: I’m not a fan of the porte-cochère, which feels more appropriate for a gas station than a boutique hotel. 

As we entered the atrium, I noticed that the elegant, low-slung seating areas outside of the Lipsey Architecture Center were strangely cordoned, as if to say, “Keep off.” And when I looked up at the modern double glass and metal staircases leading to reception, I was overwhelmed by the number of vinyl decals indicating the check-in location. (Note: This abundance of signage was a recurring theme throughout the hotel). 

I saw the sign…and then some! The overabundance of wayfinding signage at the Richardson made it feel cheap.

I was eager to appreciate the scale and volume of Richardson’s design, but what I discovered were walls covered with oversized canvas photo prints of Buffalo landmarks. There were so many that my eyes didn’t know where to focus. The refurbished grand staircase should have been the centerpiece of the lobby, but instead, had to contend with the decorative stencil work uncovered during renovation and the aforementioned wall art. 

During renovation, Douglas Development uncovered decorative stencil work and replicated it throughout the hotel.

The reception desk is tucked under this impressive staircase.

I can get behind the idea of celebrating Buffalo and its architectural legacy, and I have no issue with historically accurate stenciling — but perhaps they should have considered choosing one or the other, not both. If the goal is to pay homage to the city’s landmarks, condensing it into a gallery wall could serve as a more fitting approach. 

The richly patterned and colored tile flooring in this curved connector passage was made by Minton, Hollins & Co. in Staffordshire, England. 

Considering the national reputation of nearby art galleries, such as the Burchfield Penney and AKG, I found myself wishing Douglas Development continued the rotating art program that Hotel Henry established with Resource:Art. This would encourage visitors to explore the hotel’s public spaces, serve as an additional draw and solidify the hotel’s presence within the city’s museum corridor. 

At least the former asylum’s lofty corridors retain their grand scale. The palatial hallways are anchored with wall-to-wall carpeting in a palette of blues and greens. This color scheme could be a nod to Buffalo’s heyday as a Great Lakes port or the peeling paint of the wards that have yet to be restored. I particularly liked the elegant yet simple circular pendants with milk glass globes suspended from the ceiling. 

Just what the doctor ordered: Our room was cozy, uncluttered and bright.

Our Room: A Cozy Queen for a Couple of Queens

We stayed in a Cozy Queen room on the second floor. I had read that most of the hotel's guest rooms were created by merging three single-occupancy rooms, which were only 11 x 9 feet wide. And staying true to its name, our room was compact and uncluttered, with a queen-size bed, two nightstands, a desk and en-suite bathroom. Given the limited space, a built-in stainless steel rack and cheerful bright yellow ball coat hooks efficiently served in lieu of a full-size dresser. 

The wall art above the upholstered headboard was the focal point of the room, featuring a striking black and white architectural detail of the landmark. Not only was it cool but it also served a practical purpose. The panels are constructed from an eco-friendly noise-reducing wool and wood fiber material. 

Café Calvert was the perfect place to start our day. They offer caffeinated and non-caffeinated beverages, as well as an assortment of delicious sweet and savory baked goods. Tell Jenna we say hi!

Onsite Dining at the Richardson Hotel

Visitors can get their caffeine fix and a bite at Café Calvert, which is exactly what Wally and I did after we dropped our bags off in our room. The café sources its beans from local roaster Overwinter Coffee. In addition to an iced latte, Wally and I shared a peach and blueberry muffin and a cheddar and bacon scone, both of which were delicious. Jenna, the barista who served us, was friendly and helpful. When I asked her for a local lunch spot to go the following afternoon, she suggested Remedy House in the hip Five Corners neighborhood, a highlight of our trip. 

We also checked out Bar Vaux, the cocktail lounge located next to Café Calvert. I had the Across the Pacific and Wally, the Hobson Sour. We also shared a tasty thin-crust mushroom pizza. Despite its high ceilings, the space feels intimate. 

Get a pizza (and great cocktails) at Bar Vaux.

Overall, our stay was pleasant but fell short of my expectations for a luxury boutique hotel. There was no welcome book, TV guide or menus for the hotel restaurants in our room. Additionally, only one of us could use the hotel WiFi; if both of us had wanted to, we would have incurred an additional fee. 

The building features rounded passages between buildings — originally designed to deter putting beds in the hallways.

The upstairs lounge is a nice spot to hang out.

With that said, the hotel has been open for six months and celebrated its grand opening on September 19. It’s my hope that Douglas Development has plans to address cosmetic changes using a more discerning eye and introduce in-room amenities in the future, to fully meet the expectations of a four-star hotel experience. 

Buildings aren’t made like this anymore — let alone converted into hotels. So it’s well worth a stop for food and drinks at Bar Vaux or a visit to the Buffalo Architecture Center to see this gem up close, even if you can’t experience an overnight stay. –Duke 

The Richardson Hotel

444 Forest Avenue 
Buffalo, New York 14213
USA

 

Casa Hoyos Boutique Hotel in the Heart of San Miguel de Allende

With so many places to stay in San Miguel de Allende, you could make your base the cinematic Casa Hoyos, which pays a stylish homage to its storied past, hosts the trendy rooftop bar Bekeb and is within walking distance of the major sites of this charming Colonial city. 

Bright colors and a Deco-meets-Modern design make Casa Hoyos feel like something out of an Almodóvar film. Those eclectic throne-like armchairs come from the Mexico City design studio Comité de Proyectos. 

The building that stands at Mesones 14 in San Miguel de Allende has a colorful past dating back to the 17th century. It’s now Casa Hoyos (the last part is pronounced “Oy-ohz”), a boutique hotel that pays homage to its origins. The property was acquired by Julián Hoyos in 1938 to house both his family and his business. It was here that he established a grain and seed bank. In 1947 he added the city’s first cambio de moneda, or currency exchange, to serve the arriving expats. It operated until the mid-60s. Locals affectionately gave the property the nickname “Banco del Frijol” or “the Bean Bank.”

The home has belonged to the same family for four generations, and under the supervision of Julián’s great-granddaughter and hotel founder, Vianney Torres, reemerged in 2020 as Casa Hoyos. 

Wally hangs out in the swinging chair in the hotel’s front courtyard.

Staying Power

In November 2018 Wally and I stayed at the Ignacia Guest House in the pedestrian-friendly Colonia Roma neighborhood of Mexico City. The accommodations were a collaboration between architecture firm Factor Eficiencia and Andrés Guitiérrez’s interior design firm A-G Studio. I loved the mix of traditional and contemporary style, not to mention the curation of handmade artisan pieces found throughout the former manor, a love letter to its beloved housekeeper Ignacia, who lived and worked at the house for more than 70 years. 

I’ll admit it, I’m a fan of Guitiérrez’s. When the time came for us to find the perfect place to stay in San Miguel de Allende, and I saw that Casa Hoyos was another one of his projects, the decision for me was easy.

If you visit in the warm season, you can cool off in the rooftop pool.

Because the original home is a historic property, every detail of its restoration was regulated and submitted for approval to the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH). UNESCO also oversaw aspects of the renovation, as the town center was designated a World Heritage Site in 2008. 

When it came to selecting color for the façade, INAH requires that all buildings in San Miguel de Allende abide by specific standards–in this case, a particular palette of burnt red, orange and yellow. The hotel’s exterior is covered in a rich red ochre called vasija. 

Circular porthole-like interior windows create fun viewing (and photo) frames.

Rebuilt to Last 

One afternoon we met up with Enrique Garcia, the hotel’s director of operations and marketing, outside the hotel office, which was the original location of the kitchen. I was admiring the well-worn pink stone of the courtyard beneath our feet. Enrique told us that each of these stones was quarried in the hills outside of San Miguel de Allende and, because of UNESCO oversight, required precise documentation and numbering before they could be removed and put back exactly into place. 

Standing outside the office is a beautiful Moorish-looking structure with niches that now hold candles. When I asked Enrique about it, he smiled and told us that it was known as an aguamanil and was used for placing hot clay pots to cool after they were removed from the stove. 

This piece, called an aguamanil, stood right outside the family’s kitchen and was a place to put hot pots for serving.

The courtyard also contains the hotel’s kitchen and breakfast area, which is currently run by As de Guia, as well as a couple of other businesses: Tropa Gallery and Neithan Herbert, a women’s clothing boutique. 

Breakfast from As de Guia consists of fruit, yogurt, granola, toast and coffee.

The light complimentary breakfast consisted of fresh fruit, including cantaloupe, apples and papaya, served with a dollop of yogurt and granola, along with coffee, toast and freshly squeezed orange. if you’d like something heartier, you have to  order from their à la carte menu. 

Looking down at the back lobby with its bright red couches

Like Being on the Set of an Almodóvar Film 

The boutique hotel was built in the second courtyard, where grain warehouses once stood. But the real visual wonder comes when you walk through the passageway leading from the courtyard to the reception counter. The remains of an original brick wall give way to lofted wooden beams and a modern aesthetic — a striking contrast to the Colonial-style buildings just outside its wooden doors. Rooms range from singles, doubles, junior suite and master suite. 

I looked around and remarked to Wally that I felt like I was in an Almodóvar film. The objects and colors of his sets evoke an exuberant mood, much in the same way that Guitiérrez uses color. 

See you around, Wally!

Circling back with you Duke.

Informed by an exchange of ideas with Torres about the home’s history, Guitiérrez and his creative director, Mayela Ruiz, designed a pared-back atrium that forms the center of the space. A hybrid of ’50s Mexican Modernist and ’20s Art Deco, its walls are enveloped in raw concrete — a stark contrast to the graphic pop of glazed yellow ochre tiles and black grout revealed through the curved openings of the surrounding arcade. Andalusian-style balconies typical of a Spanish home complete the design, a reference to patriarch Julián, who moved to San Miguel de Allende from Spain during the Mexican Revolution. 

The tilework Virgin of Loreto looks down (and keeps an eye on?) the honesty bar on the first floor.

During the day, sunlight fills the lobby with a warm glow and features a trio of ’50s-inspired salmon pink Felix sofas with red cushions, a collaboration between industrial designer Christian Vivanco and Monterrey, Mexico-based manufacturer Los Patrones. The unattended honesty bar is stocked with a selection of artisanal mezcals, tequilas and whiskey.

Observing the scene from her second-story perch is the Virgin of Loreto, the patron saint of the Hoyos family and nearby Templo del Oratorio de San Felipe Neri. The hand-painted tile mural was sourced from the town of Dolores Hidalgo, which like Puebla, specializes in tin-enameled Talavera pottery. I didn’t manage to get a good photo of it, but the piece below the Virgin was repurposed and originally served as the exchange house counter. The understated encaustic black cement floors anchor the space and draw the eye up to the tiled walls, the color of maize, a wink to its former life as a grain and seed warehouse. 

Welcome to Casa Hoyos! Concierge extraordinaire Christopher can help you organize outings.

Additional references to the Hoyos family can be found in the hotel’s logo, a pair of serpents from the heraldic family coat of arms, echoed in the details of the arcades’ pale pink and black tile-edged arches and its rounded Deco elements, such as interior windows and lobby portholes.  

The bed in the master suite

Home, Suite Home

Alex, a porter at the hotel, met us upon our arrival and whisked our luggage up to our room. 

We stayed in room 12, the master suite, which was outfitted with a king-size four-poster bed and black and natural woven rattan pieces designed by A-G Studio. The walls and ceiling are covered in a soothing shade of pastel pink. 

Adding to the vibe was a squat gunmetal table lamp by Editora Nacional sitting atop a console with spiral turned legs, one of the aforementioned pieces designed by A-G Studio. On the wall above this hangs a wool tapestry designed by Mexican artist Meli Ávila. 

The LED light rings in the bathroom help put you in your best light.

The bathroom has burnt orange walls, recessed ceiling lighting, a jacuzzi tub big enough for four people and a rain shower. On our first evening there, Wally indulged in a luxurious bath and emerged entirely relaxed. As a bonus, there are two sinks, a pair of circular mirrors with LED lighting rings and botanical body care products by Loredana. 

A fun neon sign on the rooftop terrace

Raising the Bar

On the rooftop terrace of Casa Hoyos is Bekeb, led by master mixologist and owner Fabiola Padilla, who previously honed her skills at Cosme and Diego in New York City. Its name is a palindrome and refers to the Tzontil word bek, which means “seed.” 

Bekeb cocktail bar becomes quite the hotspot on weekend nights.

The thread connecting each cocktail is that they’re all based on roots, plants and flowers. Padilla pairs endemic herbs such as hoja santa and cedrón to infuse traditional Mexican spirits such as mezcal, sotol and racilla. 

The gorgeous view from the rooftop at Casa Hoyos. Here you can see nearby Plaza de la Soledad — along with three of the many churches in town.

Two of Bekeb’s signature cocktails: the Carijillo Allende and the Guava Tiki

Fresh herbs used in cocktails are kept in skull containers at Bekeb.

On our first visit, I tried the signature Bekeb cocktail, which was served in a cool handmade earthenware tumbler, and Wally tried the Milk Punch Vol. 2. I also tried the Carijillo Allende, and Wally the Guava Tiki on the evening before we left. The Carijillo consisted of espresso, cacao liqueur and banana liqueur, garnished with star anise. It was the perfect drink to imbibe as we watched the sun set behind the tiled domes of the Iglesia de San Francisco. 

If you’re looking for something to eat before dinner there’s a tapas menu, and a DJ spins on the weekends, when the bar becomes a trendy hangout. 

Wally and Duke relaxed on the rooftop terrace after a long day exploring the quaint town of San Miguel de Allende.

Home Base

We loved calling Casa Hoyos home. We’ll not soon forget the kindness of the hotel’s chief concierge, Christopher Granados, who took the stress out of coordinating our visit to the Chapel of Jimmy Ray in Cieneguita and a day trip to Guanajuato. 

Its prime location in the heart of the city made it easy for us to set out for the day to explore its sights. It’s a short walk along the cobblestone streets to the lively Jardín de Allende and the spectacular Neo-Gothic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, the city’s main parish church. –Duke

Casa Hoyos

Mesones 14
Zona Centro
37700 San Miguel de Allende
Guanajuato
Mexico

 

48 Hours in Cairns, Australia’s Gateway to the Great Barrier Reef

In addition to the marine wonderland of the Great Barrier Reef, there’s so much to do in the Cairns area — including the Kuranda Scenic Railway, Trinity Inlet and the Cairns Museum — that you’ll have to plan your visit, especially if you’ve only got a couple of days.

The Great Barrier Reef stretches over an area of 134,634 square miles (344,400 square kilometers) — not surprisingly, it’s the largest coral reef in the world.

Considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, is home to an incredible diversity of marine life, and a visit to the reef is an unforgettable experience. 

The best jumping-off point to see the largest coral reef on the planet is the city of Cairns, on Australia’s northeast coast. 

“With its clear waters and abundance of marine life, the Great Barrier Reef is a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. ”

But as impressive as the Great Barrier Reef is, it’s not the only thing to see in the area. Here’s a guide to making the most of a couple of days in Cairns. 

Snorkeling or diving the reef is an experience you’ll never forget.

Start with a snorkeling or diving tour of the Great Barrier Reef. 

If you only have 48 hours in Cairns, be sure to book a snorkeling or diving tour of the reef. The Great Barrier Reef is home to an astonishing variety of marine life, and there’s no better way to see it than up close.

A snorkeling or diving tour will give you the chance to explore the reef at your own pace, but a qualified guide can point out the best bits. With its clear waters and abundance of marine life, the Great Barrier Reef is a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. 

If you want to be close to the water but not in it, take a glass-bottom boat tour of the reef instead.

See the reef on a glass-bottom boat tour — or a helicopter ride. 

If snorkeling or diving isn’t your thing, a glass-bottom boat tour is a must if you’re looking for an unforgettable way to experience the Great Barrier Reef. You’ll have the chance to see the reef up close — while staying dry — as you glide over the colorful coral and fish. Be sure to keep an eye out for turtles, manta rays and sharks. If you’re short on time, plenty of tour operators offer half-day or even three-hour tours.

And there’s nothing quite like a helicopter ride for a bird’s-eye view of the reef. You’ll marvel at the size and scale of the reef as you soar over its vast expanse. Helicopter rides typically last around 30 minutes, so they’re perfect if you’re pressed for time. Just be sure to book in advance, as spaces fill up fast.

The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway takes you through lush greenery, where you can see rainbow lorikeets, koalas and cassowaries.

Admire the flora and fauna along the Kuranda Scenic Railway and Rainforest Cableway. 

There’s no time to waste when you only have 48 hours in Cairns. Make the most of your limited time by taking a walk through the rainforest via the Kuranda Scenic Railway. This popular tourist operation offers breathtaking views of the lush rainforest canopy, as well as opportunities to spot some of the area’s wildlife, including koalas, rainbow lorikeets (parrots as colorful as their name suggests) and even a large flightless bird called the cassowary (if you stop off at Birdworld).

The railway is also a great way to learn about the local Aboriginal culture, with guided tours available in several languages. 

And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can even take a dip in one of the many natural swimming holes along the way.

Go for a swim in the Esplanade Lagoon, then explore the CBD, the central business district.

Spend the day exploring Cairns CBD. 

To explore the city, start with a visit to the Esplanade Lagoon, where you can take a dip or simply relax on the beach. Then, head to the Cairns Museum to learn about the city’s history and culture.

Visit a local history museum, the botanic gardens or zipline over a crocodile at Cairns Zoom and Wildlife Dome.

Finish up your day with a walk through the botanic gardens, where you can admire the diverse plant life of Tropical North Queensland. With so much to see and do, you’re sure to have an unforgettable experience when you spend a day exploring Cairns CBD.

The patio at the hip Chambers café, known for its brunch and cocktail bar.

Enjoy a meal at one of the city’s many restaurants or food trucks. 

There’s no denying that food is an important part of the travel experience. Trying new dishes and sampling local specialties is a great way to get a taste for the culture of a place. If you’re short on time but big on appetite, make sure to check out some of Cairns’ best restaurants. 

From casual cafés like Caffiend and the Chambers to fine dining establishments like the French restaurant C’est Bon and Tamarind at the Reef Hotel Casino, there’s something to suit every taste and budget.

For a quick bite, head to one of the city’s many food trucks or grab a slice of pizza from a pizzeria. 

Whether you’re looking for a quick snack or a gourmet meal, Cairns’ restaurants won’t disappoint.

A gorgeous sunrise over Trinity Inlet

Head to the lookout for views of Cairns and Trinity Inlet. 

If you find yourself in Port Douglas (about an hour up the coast), make sure you stop at the Trinity Bay Lookout. It’s just a short walk from Four Mile Beach, and from here you'll be able to see the city skyline, including the iconic palm trees that line the waterfront.

Climb to the top of the Trinity Bay Lookout for views of Four Mile Beach.

On a clear day, you may even be able to see as far as Double Island off the coast. The lookout also offers stunning views of Mount Whitfield, which is worth hiking to the top of for another vantage point.

---

You might not find Nemo (or any other clownfish) with only two days in Cairns. But plan your itinerary — and make sure you include the Great Barrier Reef.

So there you have it: 48 hours in Cairns doesn’t have to be rushed. By following these tips, you can make sure you have a truly memorable experience, even when time is limited. –Charlie Btallent

 

---

---

---

A Tour of the Quinta Real Oaxaca Hotel and Its Gorgeous Gardens

Learn this UNESCO site’s colorful past, from convent to cinema, from prison to palace — and even a Masonic lodge still in use — and explore its beautiful grounds. 

A tour of the grounds of the Quinta Real Oaxaca hotel yields unexpected delights, like this glimpse of a lush interior courtyard.

It’s undeniably one of the most popular hotels in Oaxaca, and even though we weren’t staying there, we read that we simply had to have a drink there and admire the gardens, which rivaled those at the Alhambra in Spain. (They’re perfectly delightful, but that’s a bit of a stretch.)

Duke and I popped into the Quinta Real on our last day in Oaxaca. We wanted to get a drink and enjoy it in one of their courtyards — but we couldn’t find an actual bar at the hotel; you have to sit at a table to get served. Not sure if we’d be able to get a drink and wander around, we opted to forgo the booze and just wander the grounds on our own. 

“In the late 1800s, a buyer purchased the northeast section of the property to use as a Masonic lodge — which still operates to this day!”

One of the highlights of an exploration of the grounds is the stone gazebo and fountain in the Los Lavaderos Courtyard, so named because it was once used for laundry by the nuns.

Repurposed a Seemingly Endless Number of Times

The hotel began as property of the Roman Catholic Church, much like the Ex Convento de San Pablo, about another historic building in town, now home to the Casa Antonieta boutique hotel, the Textile Museum of Oaxaca and the Centro Cultural de San Pablo. 

The Quinta Real is housed in the former Convent of Santa Catalina de Siena, which was built in 1577. The nuns lived a life of seclusion and quiet meditation there for centuries — until 1859, when they were booted out by Benito Juárez’s Reform laws, which nationalized the church and seized its property. 

“The monument would then begin a long history of deterioration, monstrous construction work and atrocious transformations,” reads a sign out front. 

You can see part of the original convent exterior in the gorgeous pool area.

Not a bad spot to catch some rays

The ex-convent was put to a crazy amount of uses by the state government. In addition to a stint as a prison from 1862 to 1958, the structure also housed, at varying times, the civil registry office, the weights and measures office, the state printing press, a police precinct, the craftsman’s society, criminal courts, a night school and the Abraham Castellano Primary School from 1956 to 1962. 

What was the convent’s atrium even became the municipal palace for almost a century, from 1873 to 1970. 

Cantera stone, used in the façade of the convent, which is now a hotel, has a distinctive greenish color.

The Quinta Real is succulent — in more ways than one.

The sprawling grounds have undergone numerous and varied uses over the years, including a police precinct, printing press, school — even a municipal palace!

The Quinta Real is housed in the former Convent of Santa Catalina de Siena, which was built in 1577.

The Quinta Real property takes up an entire city block and has lots of nooks to discover. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In the late 1800s, a private buyer purchased the northeast section of the property to use it as a Masonic lodge — which still operates there to this day!

The onsite chapel has its own storied past: It was first converted to a municipal warehouse, but in the 1930s it became an art school, and then a movie theater from 1950 to 1960. Then, in 1972 the chapel was finally restored, along with the rest of the estate, when it was reconceptualized as a hotel. 

Paintings and statues can be found throughout the hotel.

Be sure to check out the faded fresco on the wall of the gift shop.

The old chapel was empty when we explored the hotel but would make a good event space. It was once used as a cinema.

The Quinta Real has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s worth a visit, even if you’re not staying there, to wander and admire the grounds. Try to figure out a way to have a drink in the gardens — and don’t set your bag down (thankfully empty of everything but the chocolate bars we bought at Mamá Pacha) to take pictures and leave it like I did. –Wally

Orange trees give the restaurant, Los Naranjos, its name.

This dining area, Los Cántaros, has an interesting art installation. Those ceramic containers, cántaros, were unearthed during the renovation and were once used to as pitchers or to hold oil.

Quinta Real Oaxaca

5 de Mayo 300
Ruta Independencia
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico

 

Casa Antonieta: A Tranquil Oasis in Oaxaca Centro

This boutique hotel in Oaxaca has all the comforts of home — plus a spectacular rooftop terrace.

The open-air lobby of the hotel. The second floor is currently being built out.

Over time, as I do research on upcoming trips, I’ve come to learn what Wally and I appreciate the most when staying abroad. Or should I say what I like — and Wally ends up being pleasantly surprised by? In the end, a lot depends on location, budget, how you travel, what kind of comfort you’re looking for and, of course, style. I’ve got one main rule: Find a place within walking distance of sites and shops that delivers a well-rounded travel experience versus a mere hotel stay. In Oaxaca, that was Casa Antonieta. 

Duke on the terrazo — our favorite spot at Casa Antonieta

Wally enjoying a glass of wine at the end of another fun day

Casa Antonieta: To Grandmother’s House We Go

When Wally and I arrived at check-in, we were warmly greeted by concierge Ana Jiménez. Our luggage was whisked away and taken to our room, and we were served refreshing glasses of rosemary- and lemon-infused water and freshly baked cookies.

As I took in the tranquil interior courtyard with its gracefully arched and symmetrical arcades, it reminded me of the ones we had seen in traditional Moroccan riads. Clearly the Spanish conquistadors brought this design to Mexico, influenced by the Moors, as the design is well-suited to hot weather, promoting natural ventilation and shade from harsh sunlight.

“ A large part of Casa Antonieta’s appeal is that it’s close to the action but far enough away from the bars to get a good night’s sleep.”

Casa Antonieta is located on a quiet stretch of Calle de Miguel Hidalgo, a short distance from the Zócalo, the historic center and public square of Oaxaca city. Tucked between the Fundación Alfredo Harp Helú and the Oaxaca Textile Museum, Casa Antonieta started life as a convent but became a mansion in the 1890s. Its name comes from Edificio María Antonieta, after the hotel’s founder Helwig George’s grandmother. A large part of its appeal to me was that it’s close enough to the action but far enough away from the bars and club scene to get a good night’s sleep.

The hotel is built around a central courtyard, much like a Moroccan riad.

In fact, Casa Antonieta is the perfect accommodation for exploring Oaxaca city’s historic quarter, restaurants, bars and shops. As you wander the cobblestone streets of Oaxaca Centro, you will undoubtedly find a variety of brightly colored Mexican Baroque, Neoclassical, Art Nouveau and more than a few neglected French and Spanish Colonial relics — one of which had a prominent banner announcing, “No Se Vende,” meaning the building is not for sale, in case you were wondering.

Our bedroom at Casa Antonieta — the woven rattan headboard evoked shelter and seclusion.

A Solid Foundation as a Convent

The boutique hotel was conceived by George, who worked with Mexico City architect Mariana Ruiz of At-te to refurbish and reimagine the property. Embracing its historic roots, the hotel has stayed true to the character of the original building, with the added bonus of modern amenities. George came up with the idea for Casa Antonieta in 2017, and the hotel opened its doors to welcome guests in April 2018. It stands on the site of the former 17th century Franciscan Convent of San Pablo. In 1911 it became a private single-story residence, and a short time after, a second floor was added.

George’s grandfather purchased the building in the ’70s, adding two additional floors and giving the building its name. 

“When he passed away, my mother, aunt and uncle each inherited a floor,” George told us. 

The hotel currently offers nine rooms, with plans to add seven more on the second floor. Ruiz collaborated with Mexican artisans, using local and natural materials where possible, such as the light-colored macuil wood and rattan. Walls are covered in an earthy hand-applied ecru-colored clay plaster, exuding a warm, rustic feel. 

Room 15 was our home away from home.

The quaint kitchenette with its macuil wood

We stayed in room 15, which was located on the third floor. Our elegant room featured terrazzo floors, custom-built furniture and doors made with tropical hardwood indigenous to Southern Mexico. Lighting was designed by Taller Lu’um, a studio that collaborates with Mexican artisans. I also admired a wool rug made by Zapotec weavers in the nearby village of Teotitlán del Valle and conceived by Oaxaca-based studio Rrres.

The galley-style kitchen had open shelving with a potted succulent in a green glazed pot from Santa María Atzompa, and a few utilitarian barro rojo (red clay pottery) vessels from San Marcos Tlapazola. Both villages are close by and would make a good day trip. 

The spa-like bathroom featured a floating countertop and shelf of macuil wood and a rain shower edged by river rock drainage. 

Start your day on the terrace and end it there, as well, when the space becomes the bar Amá.

Golden hour on the rooftop is a good spot to take a new Tinder profile pic.

In the lobby, you can get lost in your thoughts, peruse the hotel’s collection of art and photography books, or simply enjoy sipping a latte from Muss.

Elsewhere, greenery further enhances the property’s tranquil atmosphere and creates a visually striking space. 

Order breakfast at Muss…

…and enjoy it on the terrace.

Before heading out for the day, we enjoyed breakfast on the sunny rooftop terrace with views of the city and surrounding mountains. At night the rooftop transforms into Amá, which serves up expertly crafted cocktails and light bites. Wally and I recommend the roasted cauliflower steak with smoked pasilla chile rub. Plus, there’s a shop within the bar where you can purchase a selection of artisanal objects from the surrounding villages without having to leave the city.

Get a cold brew to go.

The popular coffeeshop that’s part of the hotel

the Buzz-worthy Muss Café

The hotel also contains a cool little café named Muss, which can be accessed from the lobby. The name of this “younger sibling” of Casa Antonieta comes from an adjective that means something like “tousled” or “organized mess” — which is exactly how we feel until we have our morning caffeine fix. Popular with locals and guests of the hotel alike, Muss offers great coffee and food. Their cold brew was one of the best that I had in the city. When I mentioned this to the charming concierge Javier Guzmán, he smiled and conspiratorially told me that they grind the beans with cacao nibs.  

Casa Antonieta was a welcome refuge for us to return to after a full day of adventures within and outside of the city. The concierge team was always happy to share recommendations and arrange transportation for us when needed. If you’re searching for a great home base and unforgettable stay in Oaxaca Centro, look no further. –Duke

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

The unassuming façade of Casa Antonieta belies the lush interior.

Casa Antonieta

Miguel Hidalgo 911
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico