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Seville Cathedral: Its Rich History and Stunning Architecture

A complete guide to a major part of Seville history, including La Giralda, Christopher Columbus, royal weddings and the Spanish Inquisition. 

In the heart of Seville stands a cathedral that defies simple description. Built on the ruins of a mosque, this massive Gothic masterpiece reflects the ambitions of a city eager to cement its place on the world stage.

Origins and Construction of Seville Cathedral

Seville in the late 14th century: a bustling hub of commerce and culture, still echoing with the influence of its Moorish past. The city is vibrant, filled with the sounds of merchants, artisans and the ever-present calls to prayer from the towering minaret of the Great Mosque of Seville, built during the Almohad dynasty, which dominates the skyline. 

Yet, beneath the surface, there’s a growing restlessness among the Christian rulers. They dream of an awe-inspiring structure that would not only dwarf the mosque but would also stand as a testament to the power of their piety.

In 1401, that dream begins to take shape. The city leaders, fueled by both ambition and a desire to solidify Christian dominance, gather to discuss the construction of a new cathedral. During one meeting, a church elder boldly declares, “Let us build a church so beautiful and so grand that those who see it finished will think we are mad.” 

The decision was made: Seville would build the largest cathedral in the world, a Gothic masterpiece that would leave an indelible mark on history.

The Transition From Mosque to Cathedral

But before this vision could be realized, there was the matter of the mosque. Built in the late 12th century, the Great Mosque was a symbol of Muslim rule in Seville. With its elegant arches, intricate tilework and towering minaret, it was a marvel of Islamic architecture. 

In the wake of the Reconquista, when the Christian states recaptured territory ruled by the Muslim Moors, the mosque was consecrated as a church. For over a century, it served as the city’s cathedral — but it was clear to the Christian rulers that something more magnificent was needed.

The decision was made to demolish most of the mosque, though the minaret and the Patio de los Naranjos (Courtyard of the Orange Trees) were spared, becoming integral parts of the new cathedral. This wasn’t just a practical decision but a symbolic one, blending the old with the new, and honoring the complex cultural history of Seville.

It certainly wasn’t the first time such appropriation took place. Spain in particular had a tendency to transition from mosques to churches, reflecting the shifts in power over the centuries. La Mezquita in Córdoba, with its blend of Islamic and Christian architecture, is not only one of the most striking but also the earliest example of such a transformation.  

Architectural Challenges and Triumphs

As construction began, the scale of the project quickly became apparent. The builders faced immense challenges, not least of which was the sheer size of the cathedral. 

At its peak, the construction site buzzed with hundreds of workers — stone masons, carpenters, artisans — all toiling to bring the ambitious vision to life. The air was thick with dust and the sound of chisels striking stone, as massive blocks of limestone were shaped into the soaring arches and ribbed vaults that define the Gothic style.

Charles Galter and Alonso Martínez design Seville Cathedral

Key Figures in Seville Cathedral’s Creation

Behind this monumental effort were some of the most brilliant minds of the time. Master architects like Charles Galter and Alonso Martínez, among others, brought their expertise to the project. Galter, known for his work on other Gothic cathedrals in Spain, was particularly instrumental in the design of the soaring nave and the intricate stonework that adorns the exterior.

The artisans who carved the statues, the stonemasons who shaped each block, and the laborers who worked tirelessly day after day were all part of this grand endeavor. Their collective effort created something far greater than the sum of its parts.

The Grand Unveiling and Seville Cathedral’s Legacy

The construction of Seville Cathedral, or Catedral de Sevilla, took over a century to complete, with work continuing long after the original architects had passed away. But when the cathedral was finally finished in 1528, it was clear that their bold vision had been realized. When you visit the Seville Cathedral, you can only marvel at its scale, its beauty — and its audacity.

To the average Sevillano, its sheer size would have been overwhelming, a towering monument that seemed to reach up to Heaven itself. Its intricate details — gargoyles, statues of saints and other elaborate carvings — invite closer inspection, revealing new wonders at every turn.

La Giralda: From Minaret to Bell Tower 

The mosque that once stood here was the pride of the Islamic world, and its minaret — the future Giralda — was a marvel of engineering. The city’s Muslim residents would pause in their daily routines as the call to prayer echoed across the rooftops. The minaret was a spiritual beacon, guiding the faithful and asserting the dominance of Islam in the region.

It would remain a spiritual beacon — just for those of the Catholic faith now. In the 16th century, a Renaissance-style belfry was added to the top, transforming the minaret into a bell tower. 

At the very top of the tower stands El Giraldillo, a bronze statue that functions as a weathervane. This figure, representing Faith, stands with one foot firmly planted on the tower, while the other seems to step into the air, as if ready to take flight. 

Because the statue could turn with the wind, the tower itself came to be known as La Giralda, meaning “The One That Turns” or “The Spinner.”

La Giralda also plays a part in the eerie legends of Seville Cathedral, when a scorned bride-to-be cursed the bell tower and all those who dare to be unfaithful in its vicinity.

A Stage for History: Seville Cathedral’s Role in Historic Events

Royal Weddings: The Joining of Crowns and Countries

It’s October 18, 1526. The cathedral is adorned with tapestries, lit by the flickering flames of hundreds of candles. The air is filled with anticipation, as the people of Seville gather to witness the wedding of the century: the marriage of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V and Isabella of Portugal. The union of these two powerful figures promises to shape the future of Europe.

The bride and groom exchange vows beneath the towering altar, surrounded by the highest nobility of Spain and Portugal. The grandeur of the ceremony reflects the power and wealth of the Spanish empire at its height.

But this wasn’t the only royal wedding held in Seville Cathedral. Over the centuries, the cathedral has hosted numerous royal ceremonies, each one adding to its legacy as a place where the personal and the political intersect, where the fate of nations has often been decided at the altar.

The cathedral hosted the royal weddings of Philip II and Elisabeth of Valois in 1559; Philip III and Margaret of Austria in 1599; and Philip IV and Elisabeth of France in 1615, each marking significant political alliances in European history.

The Spanish Inquisition: A Dark Chapter

However, not all of the cathedral’s historical events were moments of celebration. The Spanish Inquisition, a dark chapter in the country’s history, also left its dubious mark on Seville Cathedral. During this time, the cathedral served as a setting for the public sentencing of those accused of heresy, events known as autos-da-fé (Portuguese for “acts of faith” — a euphemism if there ever was one). 

Picture it: The cathedral, normally a place of worship and reflection, is transformed into a courtroom. The accused, dressed in penitential robes, stand before the altar, their fates hanging in the balance. The atmosphere is tense, as the Inquisitors pass judgment in the name of religious purity. 

The results were horrific: Over 700 people were burned at the stake, and more than 5,000 others faced imprisonment, forced penance and the stripping away of their social status. 

These grim proceedings unfolded in public spectacles where fear and fanaticism reigned supreme, forever marking Seville as a place where religious zealotry took its darkest form.  

A Witness to the New World: Columbus and the Age of Exploration

Seville Cathedral also played a significant role during the Age of Exploration, when Spain was at the forefront of colonizing the Americas. The cathedral was the site of numerous ceremonies celebrating the successes of explorers like Columbus, whose voyages expanded the Spanish empire and brought immense wealth and influence to the crown.

One of the most poignant moments in this history occurred in 1502, when Columbus, known locally as Cristóbal Colón, then an old man, attended a mass at Seville Cathedral before departing on his fourth and final voyage to the Americas. 

Standing in the very same spot, you can almost imagine Columbus, weary yet resolute, contemplating the journey ahead. The cathedral, with its vastness and grandeur, must have seemed like a fitting place to seek divine favor before embarking on such a perilous and uncertain journey.

Semana Santa in Seville 

During Semana Santa, or Holy Week, in Seville, the streets fill with processions led by hooded nazarenos from various brotherhoods. Dressed in long robes and creepy pointed hoods known as capirotes that cover their faces, they carry candles or crosses in solemn silence. The color of their robes — black, purple, white, red or green — reflects the symbolism of their brotherhood. Massive, ornate floats (pasos) depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ or the sorrowful Virgin Mary are carried through the streets, held up by hidden penitents called costaleros. The air is filled with the sounds of traditional music or the haunting cry of a saeta, a flamenco-style song, creating a deeply spiritual atmosphere.

The processions begin and end at the cathedral, reinforcing its status as the spiritual heart of Seville. 

A Beacon of Resilience: Surviving Earthquakes and Wars

Seville Cathedral’s history is also a story of resilience. Over the centuries, it has withstood natural disasters and human conflicts that have threatened its very existence. One of the most significant of these was the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, which caused widespread devastation across Portugal and Spain. The cathedral suffered considerable damage, with sections of its roof collapsing and the Giralda tower sustaining cracks. 

Yet, the cathedral was repaired and restored, standing as a testament to the city’s determination to preserve its cultural treasures.

Then, during the Spanish Civil War, the cathedral was once again at risk. The conflict saw many religious buildings across Spain looted or destroyed — but Seville Cathedral was spared, thanks in part to the efforts of local citizens who recognized its importance to their heritage. 

A UNESCO World Heritage Site: Acknowledging Its Global Importance

In 1987, Seville Cathedral was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, alongside the Alcázar palace complex and the General Archive of the Indies. This prestigious recognition is a testament to the cathedral’s global significance.

As a UNESCO site, Seville Cathedral is recognized for its architectural splendor, its historical importance and its role as a center of cultural heritage. The designation also brings with it a commitment to preservation, ensuring that future generations will be able to experience the cathedral’s beauty and history as we do today. The recognition has helped to elevate the cathedral’s status on the world stage, attracting visitors from every corner of the globe who come to marvel at its grandeur and delve into its rich history.

A Symbol of the City

Today, the cathedral stands as a symbol of the resilience and enduring spirit of Seville, a city that has weathered the storms of history, adapted while honoring its past, and emerged stronger each time. –Wally

Pilgrimage Paths in Spain: 4 Tips for a Modern Traveler

From the best apps to which Camino route to choose, here’s how to prepare for the Camino de Santiago.

With beautiful landscapes, delicious food and charming customs, Spain has it all. But its pilgrimage sites are what truly make the country’s offerings unique. 

Embarking on the Camino de Santiago is more than a hike across Spain — it’s a journey steeped in history, spirituality and personal discovery. For centuries, pilgrims have walked these ancient paths, drawn by faith, adventure or simply the call of the open road. Today, the Camino welcomes travelers from all walks of life, blending tradition with modern comforts. 

Coverage can be inconsistent along the more secluded stretches of the Camino.

Fortunately, there’s an easy solution: eSIMs.

The network of routes dates back to the Middle Ages and leads to the burial site of the apostle Saint James. Despite the Christian focus, the pilgrimage paths are enjoyed by walkers, hikers and cyclists of all faiths. 

Whether you’re seeking solitude, cultural immersion or the camaraderie of fellow wanderers, this guide offers essential tips to make your pilgrimage a memorable one — without leaving the 21st century behind.

1. Research the right pilgrimage for you. 

The Camino de Santiago is a network of routes that span the entire country of Spain. Each promises its own experience with different cultures, adventures and challenges. Before booking, research the best routes for your needs and abilities. 

Some routes are short and pleasant, while others have high elevations and more difficulty. 

Pilgrims hike along the Camino Frances, in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains

Camino Francés: Also known as “the French Way,” it’s the most iconic of all the Camino routes. Beginning in the charming town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, at the foothills of the Pyrenées, this journey takes you through a stunning tapestry of landscapes: rolling vineyards, rugged mountains, medieval villages and the golden fields of Castile. Covering around 500 miles (780 kilometers) and divided into 35 or so stages, it’s a physically demanding yet deeply fulfilling experience. 

Pilgrims walk the Camino del Norte through the Basque Country

Camino Del Norte: “The Northern Way” is a breathtaking coastal pilgrimage that offers a less crowded alternative to the more popular routes. Stretching over 500 miles (800 kilometers), with the final 62 miles (100 kilometers) being the most traveled, this path hugs the rugged cliffs and pristine beaches of northern Spain. 

Starting in the Basque Country, it meanders through charming fishing villages, vibrant seaside cities and lush green landscapes. The route showcases the diverse beauty of the Spanish shoreline, from the misty, mountainous regions of Asturias to the rolling hills of Cantabria. Along the way, pilgrims can indulge in the rich culture, world-class cuisine, and traditions of the Basque region — think pintxos, cider houses, and warm, welcoming locals. 

Although the trail can be challenging due to its steep ascents and descents, it rewards those who tackle it with awe-inspiring views of the Cantabrian Sea and a sense of serenity that only comes from walking paths less traveled.

Pilgrims walk the Camino Ingles through the Galacian countryside, past sailboats in a charming town

Camino Inglés: Travelers with limited time might opt for “the English Way.” Stretching just 74 miles (119 kilometers), this route is one of the shortest and most accessible. Historically, it was the path taken by pilgrims from England, Ireland and Northern Europe who arrived by sea. 

Starting in either Ferrol or A Coruña, this trail winds through the lush Galician countryside, offering a mix of coastal views, quaint hamlets and dense forests. It’s a fantastic option for those looking to complete the journey in under a week while still embracing the essence of the Camino.

Camino Portugués: The second most popular Camino route, “the Portuguese Way,” offers a blend of rich culture and scenic landscapes across both Portugal and Spain. Pilgrims can start in Lisbon for a full 380-mile (610-kilometer) journey or opt for a shorter trek from Porto, covering 160 miles (260 kilometers). The route splits into two paths from Porto: the traditional Central Route, which takes you through historic cities and lush vineyards, and the Coastal Route, offering breathtaking ocean views and seaside towns. 

With gentler terrain compared to other routes, the Camino Portugués is accessible while still delivering a full pilgrimage experience. Highlights include Portugal’s historic landmarks, from Gothic cathedrals to the Templar Castle in Tomar, along with opportunities to savor local delicacies like pastéis de nata (custard tarts) and bacalhau (dried, salted cod). 

Camino Primitivo: “The Original Way” is the oldest and arguably the most challenging of the Camino routes. Dating back to the 9th century, this path was first taken by King Alfonso II when he made the pilgrimage to the newly discovered tomb of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela. Beginning in Oviedo, the Camino Primitivo spans approximately 200 miles (320 kilometers) through the rugged mountains of Asturias and Galicia.

This route is less traveled, offering a quieter and more introspective journey. The rewards are plentiful: breathtaking landscapes, encounters with ancient Roman roads and a strong sense of history. 

So, how do you find the best routes? Modern travelers can now use technology to explore the Camino before booking. For example, Google Arts & Culture has an extensive library of resources in an engaging format.

2. Get accreditation for your pilgrimage. 

Once you’ve mapped out your route, it’s time to prepare for the pilgrimage itself. An essential item you’ll need is the Pilgrim’s Credencial, often referred to as a “Pilgrim’s Passport.” This official document allows you to collect stamps at various points along your journey, serving as tangible proof of your progress.

Historically, the credential was granted to protect travelers during the Middle Ages. Today, it offers modern pilgrims additional perks. With the credencial, you gain access to special accommodations provided by Christian institutions throughout Spain. It also includes maps and guidance to help you navigate the pilgrimage routes. More importantly, it’s your certification for completing the Camino, allowing you to receive the Compostela certificate upon completing your journey in Santiago.

The credencial is available from institutions authorized by the Cathedral of Santiago. In response to the COVID pandemic, a digital version is now offered, allowing you to carry your credentials on your smartphone. 

3. Plan your connectivity ahead of time. 

No matter which route you choose, staying connected is essential — for keeping in touch with your group, accessing route maps, and updating friends and family. However, one thing that might catch you off guard is spotty connectivity. Once you start the Camino, you might find your smartphone struggling to connect. With no signal or data in some remote areas, you could feel stranded.

Even if you have an international roaming package, coverage can be inconsistent along the more secluded stretches of the Camino. Fortunately, there’s an easy solution for pilgrims heading to Spain: eSIMs.

So, what is an eSIM card? It’s a digital SIM already embedded in your smartphone that allows you to connect to the best local networks at your destination through an app. An eSIM helps ensure seamless connectivity across the varying landscapes of the Camino, even in remote areas. Whether you’re on the Camino Francés or starting your journey in Portugal, an eSIM automatically switches between networks as you cross borders, keeping you connected.

The best part? You can customize your eSIM plan to match your needs. If you don’t plan on using your smartphone often, choose a small data package that covers the essentials and top it up as needed along the way.

4. Download these helpful apps. 

Travel apps can be invaluable for making your pilgrimage smoother and more enjoyable, from booking accommodations to navigating route paths. Whether you’re walking or cycling, having the right apps on hand can help you make sense of your surroundings and stay prepared.

Here are some of the best pilgrimage trail apps

Buen Camino de Santiago: This app offers a comprehensive library of maps, route profiles and more. It even provides real-time alerts on road closures, helping you plan ahead, secure accommodations and adjust your route as needed.

Camino Ninja: A free app packed with essential information, including distances, elevations, offline maps and accommodation options. It’s a handy resource to have, especially in areas with limited connectivity.

Camino Assist Pilgrim Santiago: This app features offline maps, a built-in compass, a phrasebook and a diary tool to track your journey. It’s perfect for those who want to document their experience while staying well-equipped on the road.

A Modern Way of Experiencing Spain’s Pilgrimage Trails

Spain’s Camino de Santiago offers a sanctuary for those seeking peace, reflection and spiritual growth. While the essence of the pilgrimage lies in stepping away from the fast pace of modern life, embracing technology can actually enhance your journey.

Keeping screens at a respectful distance doesn’t mean disregarding their benefits. Tools like eSIMs can ensure you stay connected for important updates and group communication, while travel apps unlock the rich cultural history of the regions you traverse, deepening your experience along the way. 

With the right balance, you can embrace both tradition and modern convenience as you walk these timeless paths. –Jolene Chambers

Seville Cathedral Legends: Ghost Stories, Curses and Hidden Treasure

Meet the spirit of Christopher Columbus, the Ghostly Guardian and La Susona, brave the curse of La Giralda and discover a secret stash of gold.

Ghosts swarm around Seville Cathedral

The Seville Cathedral, with its towering Gothic spires and labyrinthine chambers, can be a gloomy sanctuary where it’s easy to imagine hearing whispers and catching dark shapes out of the corner of your eye. Over the centuries, this majestic building has become a repository of folktales — some tinged with mystery, others with tragedy. As the sun sets and the long shadows stretch across the cobblestones, gather round to hear the spookiest legends about Seville Cathedral. 

The curse lingers.

Now, anyone who betrays a vow within the cathedral’s grounds will be met with misfortune — anything from financial ruin to an untimely death.
The Ghostly Guardian of Seville Cathedral, a skeletal figure in flowing robe and full armor

The Ghostly Guardian of Seville Cathedral 

On stormy nights, when the wind wails through the narrow streets of Sevilla, locals speak in hushed tones of the Ghostly Guardian — a silent sentinel said to patrol Seville Cathedral’s hallowed halls. This figure, draped in a flowing, tattered cloak and clad in ancient armor, is believed to be the restless spirit of a medieval knight. Witnesses describe seeing him glide through the shadows, his armor clinking faintly as he moves from one darkened chapel to another, his gaze ever-watchful. Others have spied him kneeling in solemn prayer at the high altar, his ghostly form cast in a faint, silvery glow.

The Ghostly Guardian of Seville Cathedral floats in the air

He was once a master builder, a man whose life’s work was the construction of the cathedral. Stricken down by illness before seeing his masterpiece completed, his spirit lingered. Not even death could sever his connection to the place he so loved. 

The Ghostly Guardian of Seville Cathedral, kneeling in prayer at the altar

Visitors who stay too long after dark have claimed to hear strange sounds — the echo of footsteps when no one is near or the eerie clatter of unseen armor. The Ghostly Guardian continues his eternal watch, safeguarding the cathedral from threats both seen and unseen.

Men open a treasure chest in Seville Cathedral

Hidden Treasure: The Secret of the Cathedral’s Gold

Beneath the cathedral’s towering arches and heavy stones lies a secret that has tantalized treasure hunters for centuries — a hidden cache of riches. As the story goes, during a time of great unrest in Sevilla, a powerful nobleman sought to hide his treasure in a place he believed would be safe. 

He approached the master builders of the cathedral, bribing them to construct a secret chamber, deep within its bowels, where his fortune in gold, silver and precious gems could be hidden away. The builders, either out of greed or under duress, agreed to this clandestine arrangement, creating a hidden vault so ingeniously concealed that no outsider would ever suspect its existence.

The nobleman, however, never returned to claim his treasure. He died in a distant battle, taking the secret of the chamber’s location with him to the grave. Since then, countless treasure seekers have scoured the cathedral’s chapels, floors and nooks, succumbing to fevered dreams of instant wealth. 

Some claim the treasure is hidden beneath the grand altar; others believe it lies behind one of the many intricately carved stone panels that adorn the cathedral walls. Yet, despite the tireless searches, the treasure trove remains elusive.

A jilted bride stands under La Giralda of Seville Cathedral, cursing her runaway groom

The Curse of La Giralda

Who would suspect that La Giralda, with its elegant silhouette rising above Sevilla’s skyline, is also the focal point of a dark and vengeful curse, a warning to those who dare betray love and break a promise?

Back in the 16th century, a young nobleman was set to marry a beautiful woman from a wealthy family. The wedding was to be a grand affair, the kind that would be spoken of for generations. But the bride’s joy turned to despair when, on the morning of the ceremony, her betrothed abandoned her at the altar.

Heartbroken and humiliated, she stood beneath the shadow of La Giralda, her wedding gown fluttering in the wind, tears staining her cheeks. In her anguish, she raised her hands to the heavens and cursed the man who had jilted her. As she uttered her final words, dark clouds rolled in and the sky roared with thunder. A bolt of lightning struck La Giralda, sending a single stone crashing down at the feet of the fleeing nobleman. He was able to escape the city — but he couldn’t escape the curse. 

His life unraveled — he lost his fortune, his friendships turned sour, and he died alone, tormented by the consequences of his broken promise.

The curse lingers. Now, anyone who betrays a vow within the cathedral’s grounds will be met with misfortune — anything from financial ruin to an untimely death. The story serves as a cautionary tale, a reminder that love, once pledged, must not be taken lightly.

The beautiful, tragic figure of La Susona in the Old Jewish Quarter of Sevilla

The Legend of La Susona: A Tale of Love and Betrayal

Meet La Susona, a young woman whose beauty was matched only by the darkness of her fate. Susona Ben Susón was the daughter of a wealthy Jewish merchant in the late 15th century, a time when Sevilla was rife with tension, suspicion and the threat of religious persecution. Despite the danger, Susona fell deeply in love with a Christian nobleman, a relationship that was strictly forbidden.

One night, Susona overheard her father and his allies plotting a rebellion against the Christian authorities. To protect her lover, Susona revealed the plot, betraying her own family to save him. Her confession led to the swift arrest and execution of her father and many others, leaving her wracked with guilt. Shunned by her community and haunted by what she had done, Susona chose to live the rest of her life in isolation, dedicating herself to prayer and penance.

The skull of La Susona sits on the cobblestone streets of the Jewish Quarter of Sevilla

As death approached, Susona made one final, chilling request: that her skull be displayed at the entrance to her family home as a warning to others of the cost of betrayal. 

The glowing ghost of Christopher Columbus wanders Seville Cathedral

The Restless Ghost of Christopher Columbus

In the depths of Seville Cathedral’s hallowed halls, Christopher Columbus, the man who charted new worlds and altered the course of history, is said to haunt the very place where his bones now lie. 

By day, the cathedral bustles with visitors, but by night, when the crowds have gone, the air thickens with something unspoken. It’s then that some claim to see him — a ghostly figure drifting through the cold, silent nave, cloaked in a flowing coat, his face obscured by shadows.

Columbus appears near his grand tomb. Some who have ventured close to it at night have felt an icy chill or heard the faintest rustle, like the sweep of a cloak brushing against stone. Those who linger too long might catch a glimpse of a pale figure slipping into the darkness.

A ghost in ragged cloak wanders the Seville Cathedral

The ghost isn’t a vengeful spirit, nor does he lash out at those who dare approach. Instead, he wanders in sorrow and unrest, as if bound to the place by unfinished business or unquiet thoughts. His steps are slow, deliberate — an apparition of a man retracing paths he once walked in life, now doomed to tread them for eternity. 

Those who have encountered Columbus’ ghost speak of a sense of unease, as though they’re not just witnessing a spirit, but a regret that has taken form, a specter caught in an endless loop, reliving decisions that can never be undone — perhaps not too surprising for such a contentious figure.

A ghost floats along the Jardin del Naranjos at Seville Cathedral

Haunted Seville Cathedral 

These legends remind us that Sevilla is a city where the past is never truly buried. The stories may be shrouded in mystery and myth, but they endure, whispered through the ages, inviting all who listen to step into a world where history and the supernatural blur in the shadows of Seville Cathedral. 

It’s hard to shake the feeling that in this place of grandeur and mystery, some echoes never fade, and some spirits never rest. –Wally

Centre Pompidou Málaga: A Modern Art Marvel

El Cubo, as locals call it, a museum located in Málaga’s vibrant port, is anything but boring. This dazzling structure, designed by Daniel Buren, houses a captivating collection of avant-garde art.

Colorful cub exterior of the Centre Pompidou Malaga

The surprising multicolored cube on Málaga’s port is a branch of the Centre Pompidou, Paris’ modern art museum.

When I was in high school, my French class took a trip to Paris, and it was there that I first laid eyes on the Centre Pompidou. The building’s exterior, with its industrial ductwork winding up like a scarlet-bellied serpent, and a pair of cherry red lips spouting water in the fountain, captivated my youthful imagination. 

But if you thought the Centre Pompidou was just that quirky building in Paris, think again. The avant-garde behemoth has spawned a sibling in Málaga, Spain; the city famous for its hometown homeboy, Picasso, and amazing Moorish landmarks like the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro, got a bit of Parisian modern art chic.

The project was initially conceived as a limited five-year venture.

It has proven so successful, Málaga has decided, with Paris’ agreement, to extend its lease until 2034.
Art installation of red wire diagonal cubes in front of the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Various sculptures are put on temporary display outside of the museum.

Why Málaga?

The project was initially conceived as a limited five-year venture between Málaga’s mayor, Francisco de la Torre, and the Centre Pompidou’s president, Serge Lasvignes. The French institution agreed to lend its brand name, curatorial expertise and artworks from its Paris HQ to the chic port city of Málaga in the South of Spain. This cultural experiment provided the perfect canvas for the Centre’s first foray outside France. It has proven so successful, Málaga has decided, with Paris’ agreement, to extend its lease until 2034.

Red, yellow, blue and green transparent squares cover the cube-shaped entrance to the Centre Pompidou Malaga in the city's port

Daniel Buren came up with the whimsical design.

The Colorful Genius and Bold Design of Daniel Buren

The Centre Pompidou Malaga isn’t just a museum — it’s a statement. You can’t miss it. Its design is as bold as its Parisian parent’s. But instead of resembling a building turned inside out, the Pompidou Málaga looks like a giant Rubik’s Cube made of glass was plopped down in the city’s port. It’s the brainchild of French artist Daniel Buren, renowned for his use of bold colors and geometric patterns.

Buren takes an in situ approach, which is a fancy way of saying he integrates his pieces directly into their environments, creating site-specific art that interacts with its surroundings. And that’s certainly the case with El Cubo (the Cube), as the Málaga Pompidou is affectionately called. A transparent, multicolored structure serves as the entrance to the subterranean museum space. Its design is a sharp contrast to the traditional Spanish architecture around it, making it a standout landmark. 

Buren’s use of color and light transforms the cube into a dynamic piece of art, changing its appearance with the movement of the sun and the seasons. It’s as much a work of art as those found within. Try walking by at different times (sunrise or night, in particular) to see how light plays upon the façade.

Balls of various types and sizes in a line in front of a painting of modern buildings in the Centre Pompidou Malaga

The museum opened in 2015 for a short stint — but it has obviously done well enough to extend its agreement through 2034.

The Pompidou Málaga’s Opening Act

When it first opened in 2015, the Centre Pompidou Málaga was met with a mix of excitement…and skepticism. Art critics and the public alike were curious about how this Parisian transplant would fit into the cultural tapestry of Málaga. But The Guardian gushed, “The Centre Pompidou in Málaga represents a bold cultural experiment, bridging the artistic ethos of Paris with the vibrant spirit of southern Spain.”

Meanwhile, El País highlighted the architectural contrast: “Daniel Buren’s colorful cube stands as a beacon of modernity against Málaga’s historic skyline, symbolizing the city’s commitment to contemporary art.”

Woman in wheelchair and man look at modern painting on yellow wall in the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Wally and Duke can find modern art to be hit or miss — but the Centre Pompidou Málaga was filled with cool, thought-provoking works.

Art and Exhibitions at the Pompidou Málaga

But the Centre Pompidou in Málaga isn’t just a pretty cube — it’s a treasure trove of modern masterpieces that would make any modern art lover swoon.

The permanent collection is a curated selection of works from the vast repository of the Centre Pompidou in Paris. It spans the 20th and 21st centuries, showcasing iconic pieces from celebrated artists such as Francis Bacon, Frida Kahlo, Joan Miró — and, por supuesto, Pablo Picasso

Le Rouge à lèvres, a painting in the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Lipstick by František Kupka, 1908

Bal au Moulin de la Galette, a painting at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Bal au Moulin de la Galette by Raoul Dufy, circa 1943

Enfants aux lampions, a painting at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Children and Lanterns by Tadé Makowski, 1929

These works are arranged thematically rather than chronologically, providing visitors with a fresh perspective on modern art movements and their interconnectedness. The themes often explore major artistic movements and their cultural contexts. You might find rooms dedicated to Cubism, Surrealism or Abstract Expressionism. This approach not only highlights the evolution of styles but also the ongoing dialogue between artists across different periods and geographies.

Sommeil hollywoodien, a painting at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Hollywood Sleep by Jean Cocteau, 1953

Soudain l'été dernier, a work of art at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Suddenly Last Summer by Martial Raysse, 1936

During our visit, we caught the temporary exhibition Un Tiempo Propio (or Time for Yourself for those of you who don’t speak Spanish), a spirited rebuke of the relentless demands imposed by our digital calendars. Showcasing the works of 90 artists, the exhibit delved into the theme of leisure, encouraging a pause from the daily grind. It served as a refreshing reminder to reclaim our time and disconnect, if only momentarily, from the buzz of notifications and schedules — a true celebration of the art of relaxation and the simple joys of free time.

We stopped just here at the time, an installation of hanging sacs at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

We Stopped Just Here at the Time by Ernesto Neto, 2002

One of our favorite exhibits in Un Tiempo Proprio was by Ernesto Neto, the Brazilian maestro of the bizarre: We Stopped Just Here at the Time. This artwork was a captivating display of suspended bags filled with aromatic herbs like rosemary, parsley and thyme. The installation reminded me of a forest of hanging testicles (paging Doctor Freud!), creating a whimsical and immersive environment that invited visitors to bask in the earthy fragrances and stare, mesmerized, at the organic forms swaying gently.

Chaise à tapis volant, a red retro chaise longue at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Ettore Sottsass’ Flying Carpet Armchair

Mint green cabinet by Sottsass at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Sottsass’ designs are somehow retro and modern at the same time, like this minimal mint green cabinet.

We also enjoyed the Ettore Sottsass: Magical Thinking exhibition, which showcased over 100 pieces of Sottsass’ groundbreaking work. These retro-futuristic items in bright colors reminded me of Fisher-Price children’s toys, highlighting the designer’s playful approach. Sottsass was a key figure in the Memphis movement of the 1980s, which revolutionized design with its bold use of color, geometric shapes and whimsical patterns. The postmodern movement rejected minimalism in favor of a more expressive, emotionally engaging style. The exhibit captured this ethos, blending fun and sophistication in a way that made each piece feel both nostalgic and cutting-edge​. 

Théière Basilico, a mint green teapot made of curves by Sottsass at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

The Basilico Teapot

Théière Cerise, a teapot that looks like a child's retro toy, by Sottsass at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Cherry Model Teapot

A video showiong a red-faced clown lying down, playing at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

it wouldn’t be a modern art museum without a creepy clown.

Discovering the Unexpected at the Pompidou Málaga

Duke and I were thoroughly impressed with the Centre Pompidou Málaga, where we encountered a captivating variety of art that was both thought-provoking and immersive. We spent a delightful couple of hours there, exploring the museum’s strange and intriguing pieces, each offering a unique perspective on modern art. The experience exceeded our expectations and was a refreshing contrast to what we consider the less inspiring exhibitions that the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago has featured in recent years. 

The variety of exhibits at the Centre Pompidou Málaga ensures that whether you’re a seasoned art critic or a curious traveler, there’s something that will capture your imagination and perhaps even challenge your understanding of what art can be. So, the next time you find yourself in Málaga, make sure to descend into El Cubo — you just might discover your new favorite artist or a whole new way of looking at the world. –Wally

Modern art exhibits seen through a gauzy curtain at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

There are lots of different areas to explore at the Centre Pompidou Málaga, but they can all be done in a couple of hours.

The lowdown

The Centre Pompidou in Malaga is located in the city’s vibrant port area, making it easily accessible. 

Hours of operation

Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Saturday and Sunday: 9:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Tuesday: Closed (except on public holidays)

Holidays: Open with extended hours; always check the official website for up-to-date holiday hours.

Admission costs

General admission: €9

Reduced admission: €5.50 (available for seniors over 65, students under 26 and large families)

Free admission: For children under 18, unemployed individuals and visitors with disabilities (with one companion)

Special free hours: On Sundays from 4 p.m. to closing, and all day on certain designated dates (such as International Museum Day)

Gift shop at the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Exit through the gift shop.

Tips for visitors

Advance tickets: It’s a good idea to purchase tickets online in advance to avoid long lines, especially on weekends and holidays.

Guided tours: Consider booking a guided tour to get the most out of your visit. Tours are available in multiple languages and offer deeper insights into the exhibitions.

Accessibility: The Centre Pompidou is fully accessible to visitors with disabilities. Elevators and ramps are available, and wheelchairs can be borrowed at the information desk.

Photography: Photography without flash is allowed in most areas.

Coat/bag check: Leave your bags and coats to make it easier to enjoy the exhibits unburdened.

Gift shop: Exit through the gift shop, where you can pick up some cool souvenirs or gifts.

Entrance to the Centre Pompidou Malaga

Centre Pompidou Málaga

Pasaje Doctor Carrillo Casaux
Muelle Uno
Puerto de Málaga
29001 Málaga
Spain

 

Plaza de España: Where History Meets Artistry

Discover the stunning tile alcoves in this iconic landmark from the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition (and a Star Wars movie).

Man leans against pillar and looks at the Plaza de España, with its beautiful building and arching bridges, filled with tourists

There’s talk that city officials might actually start charging admission because of overtourism in the Plaza de España.

It was love at first sight. Wally and I were instantly captivated by the cuisine, history and diverse architecture of Andalucía, the southernmost region of Spain. On our first trip there, we spent a couple of idyllic days with our friend Dan in Sevilla. We both agreed that when we returned, we’d plan to spend more time in the capital city of Andalusia.

Man in t-shirt and sunglasses leans on blue and white railing of a bridge in the Plaza de España with one of the towers behind him

Even the railings of the bridges are gorgeous in the Plaza de España.

Earlier this year, we got our chance and stayed at an incredible Airbnb in Seville close to the Casco Viejo, or Old Quarter, with a rooftop view of the Catedral de Sevilla. One of the places we wanted to revisit was the Plaza de España, which was within walking distance from our accommodation. The city is quite walkable, flat and easy to navigate. Of course, this will depend on your level of mobility and whether you’re willing to walk (we always are).

Building and bridge in the Plaza de España, where a tourist poses for a photo

Unlike other expositions, where most structures were temporary and torn down after the event, the elaborate Andalusia Pavilion was built to be permanent and was constructed using traditional materials such as brick, ceramic, iron and wood.

A Brief History of the Plaza de España

The Plaza de España includes the Pabellón de Andalucía (Pavilion of Andalusia), which was built to showcase Spain’s industrial and technological achievements at the 1929 Exposición Ibero-Americana (Ibero-American Exposition). 

This popular destination is nestled among the trees and flowers of Parque María de Luisa, which was formerly the private gardens of the Palacio de San Telmo. The land, donated to the city in 1893 by Infanta María Luisa Fernanda de Bourbon, Duchess of Montpensier, now serves as the city’s primary green space.

Portrait medallion bas relief carving of Alfonso el Sabio between arches in the Plaza de España in Sevilla

One of 48 portrait medallions from ceramicist Pedro Navía’s Triana studio depicting illustrious figures from Spain’s history, including this one of King Alfonso X “el Sabio” aka the Wise, who ruled from 1252-1284. 

The idea of hosting a fair in Sevilla was first proposed by civil engineer Luis Rodríguez Caso in 1908 as part of an extensive urban development project designed to boost economic growth and improve trade relations with Spain’s former Latin American colonies. 

Construction began in 1914 under the supervision of prominent architect Aníbal González. Unfortunately, World War I interrupted these plans, and delays were further exacerbated in 1918 by a particularly virulent strain of the H1N1 virus, estimated to have claimed 260,000 lives in Spain before waning a year later.

The plaza currently houses numerous administrative offices. Our friend Jo, an expat from the U.K. living in Spain, admitted to us that while the space is gorgeous, it also reminds her of the hours she spent in a bureaucratic nightmare of immigration red tape.

Curving building of the Plaza de España in Seville, with the moat and a lamppost

Stunning architecture and rich history come together at the iconic Plaza de España in Sevilla.

Visiting the Plaza de España

The Plaza and Fountain

The monumental structure, covering 538,196 square feet (50,000 square meters), was designed by González in the Regionalist style, which combines elements of Baroque, Mudéjar and Renaissance Revival. The grand fountain, added by architect Vicente Traver y Tomás, rises from the center of the plaza courtyard and was inspired by the Montjuïc fountain in Barcelona. (It was off during our visit due to a severe drought that had lasted for most of the year.) 

Pillared arcade with tourists at the Plaza de España in Sevilla

The porte-cochère acts as the grand entrance of the Plaza de España, now home to administrative offices.

Flamenco dancer in black and red performs in the Plaza de España while tourists watch

Flamenco dancers often perform beneath the columned central portico of the Pabellón de Andalucía at the Plaza de España.

A couple walks through the upper tier of the Plaza de España

Head to the upper gallery for a shaded walk and a great way to see the beauty of the plaza unfold below.

The original plans for the plaza didn’t include a fountain, but town officials insisted on adding one, much to González’s dismay. And according to local lore, that’s why the statue of González, standing at the axis of the pavilion’s crescent, faces away from the fountain.

Statue of Aníbal González Álvarez-Ossorio in the Plaza de España

Local lore has it that the likeness of architect Aníbal González is turned away from the fountain —added by Vicente Traver y Tomás — because he wasn’t a fan of the feature.

The main structure is capped by a pair of domed towers that were originally planned to be much taller. However, concerns arose that they would end up dwarfing La Giralda, the iconic bell tower of the Seville Cathedral. To ensure this wouldn’t happen, they were shortened to 243 feet (74 meters) high — 77 feet less than La Giralda.

One of the towers on the moat of the Plaza de España in Sevilla, Spain

The South Tower of the Plaza de España stands about 243 feet (74 meters) tall.

Between 2007 and 2010, the plaza underwent a meticulous 14 million euro renovation, which included the installation of ceramic lamp posts and railings around the canal, restoring the landmark to its former glory. About €5 million was used to replace the pipes and update the canal’s water supply system. While the building’s various government offices aren’t open for tours, you can still admire the interior colonnade and access the upper floor balconies to take in a view of the plaza from above.

Azulejo tile niche of Córdoba in the Plaza de España in Seville

In the Córdoba alcove, the hand-painted azulejo mural portrays the moment the city surrendered to King Ferdinand III of Castile. The Torre Campanario of the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba is visible on the left, while the Torre de la Malmuerta stands on the right.

The Tiled Alcoves

As you walk around the central plaza, vibrant color is everywhere — every possible variation and combination of greens and blues, ranging from the aquamarine of the shallow shore to the cerulean blue of the deep ocean, with a visual jolt of cadmium yellow.

The outer rim of the plaza’s pavilion has 48 alcoves with plinth-style benches, clad in azulejos, glazed ceramic tiles produced in Triana, a neighborhood renowned for its ceramic artists, across the river from Sevilla’s historic center. 

Among the four dozen tile and ceramic murals representing the provinces of Spain in Seville’s Plaza de España, the painted tiles from Ciudad Real show Don Quixote in armor, as the noble knight he imagined himself to be, preparing to battle windmills alongside his squire, Sancho Panza.

Each shrine-like space is dedicated to a different Spanish province, and includes a tile map of its territory, its coat of arms and a tableau depicting a historical event or cultural scene from the region.

Pillared shelves topped with pináculos, ceramic finials, flank the alcoves. Initially, I assumed these shelves might have been for holding votive candles, but I learned that they once held pamphlets with information about each province during the exposition. 

The Badajoz Bench with its beautiful azulejo tiles in the Plaza de España

This vibrant alcove at the Plaza de España features a colorful tableau for Badajoz, depicting King Alfonso IX of León’s recapture of the city from the Muslims in 1230 CE.

Beautiful details cover almost every inch of the plaza, many of which are the work of ceramicist and sculptor Pedro Navía y Campos. His craftsmanship can be seen in the 40 portrait medallions honoring prominent figures from Spain’s history that adorn the spandrels of the porticoed gallery.

A man rows a boat with a woman in it in the moat of the Plaza de España, heading under a curved bridge

Charming rowboats glide across the canal, offering a unique and serene way to experience the beauty of Plaza de España.

The Bridges

The Venetian-style footbridges that gracefully arch over the canal add a picturesque charm to the plaza and beautifully complement the symmetry of the pavilion.

Man leans forward on blue and white bridge railing in the Plaza de España in Sevilla

Elegant bridges span the canal, blending Moorish, Renaissance and Spanish architectural styles.

They’re named after the four historical kingdoms of Spain: Castile, León, Navarre and Aragón. These bridges connect the open courtyard to the main building and galleries. Their blue and white balustrades were crafted by ceramist Manuel García Montalván. The administrative building is surrounded by a 1,690-foot-wide (515-meter) moat, where visitors can rent rowboats and leisurely paddle around. Wally and I haven’t done so yet — but we plan to in the future. 

Princess Amidala, R2D2 and Anakin Skywalker in the Plaza de España in the movie Star Works: Attack of the Clones

Star Wars fans will particularly love visiting the Plaza de España, as it was a filming location for Theed Palace in Naboo where Anakin and Padmé fall in love during Star Wars II: Attack of the Clones.

Movies Filmed at Plaza de España

The Plaza de España has been used as a filming location for a few well-known movies, including Lawrence of Arabia (1962), where it served as a backdrop for Cairo, Egypt, and Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones (2002), when Anakin and Padme, followed by R2D2, arrive on Naboo and walk through the colonnade of the Palace of Theed. Most recently, it appeared as the palatial complex of an eccentric autocrat in The Dictator (2012) by Sacha Baron Cohen.

Plaza de España in Seville, Spain

Plaza de España, a stunning architectural marvel in Sevilla, boasts a grand semicircular building, vibrant ceramic tile decorations and a serene canal, making it a captivating symbol of Spain’s artistic and cultural heritage.

The Lowdown

While we were exploring, we witnessed a wannabe influencer who clearly expected everyone to move aside as she directed her husband to take a photo of her standing on the stairs as if she were the only one there. When the crowds didn’t clear for her to get “the perfect shot,” she had a meltdown and stormed off, leaving her husband with their baby and stroller to chase after her.

Influencer in white dress tries to pose while people walk down the stairs at the Plaza de España

Don’t be this woman. She threw a tantrum when other tourists refused to step aside so she could get her perfect shot.

The Plaza de España is located near the entrance of Maria Luisa Park across from the Universidad de Sevilla (University of Seville) and is about a five-minute walk following Avenida de Isabel la Católica. 

Squares of tiles in wood on the hall ceiling at the Plaza de España
Tiles of winged person on pillar in the Plaza de España, Sevilla
Man sits on tile-covered steps in the Plaza de España

Even the staircases of Plaza de España are adorned with exquisite tilework.

If you’re planning on visiting during the daytime be sure to wear sunscreen to prevent sunburn and bring bottled water to stay hydrated, as the majority of the plaza is open and exposed. 

There aren’t any public bathrooms within the main pavilion, but there are pay toilets in a compact building at the front of the plaza, which cost 60 céntimos to use.

Paseo de Isabel La Católica near the Plaza de España

Paseo de Isabel la Católica offers a peaceful stroll amid lush greenery, with Plaza de España on one side and Parque de María Luisa on the other.

The Plaza de España is currently free to enter, but concerns about managing overtourism and the costs of preserving the historic site have prompted city officials to consider imposing an entry fee for non-citizens. 
Whatever the outcome may be, we suggest spending a lazy afternoon admiring this special place. –Duke

 

The Hidden Gems of Barcelona

Take a tour of the off-the-beaten path attractions in El Raval, the Gothic Quarter, Poble-sec, Gràcia and Montjuïc. 

Man walks down pedestrian walkway at night in Barcelona, as the lights create a starlike effect

Barcelona, the cosmopolitan capital of Spain’s Catalonia region, is renowned for its vibrant culture, art and architecture. But beyond the fantastical and incomplete basilica of La Sagrada Familia and historic Modernisme landmarks designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, like Parc Güell, lie an abundance of less-familiar spots waiting to be discovered.

Aerial view of the streets of Barcelona, forming a neat grid divided by the Diagonal, with La Sagrada Familia church in the foreground

Barcelona’s Hidden Treasures 

While Barcelona’s main attractions are undoubtedly worth visiting, the city’s true identity lies in its non-touristy spots. From ancient Roman ruins to quaint local markets, a hidden gems private tour offers a glimpse into the authentic Barcelona that locals cherish.

Like in many of the best cities, Barcelona’s charm lies in its neighborhoods. Here are some of the best ones — and the lesser-known locales nestled within them.

Pedestrians walk through a street in El Raval in Barcelona

El Raval: The Bohemian Quarter 

Sandwiched between the streets of Paralelo and Las Ramblas, El Raval is one of the most densely populated and multicultural areas of the city. Once known for its rough edges, the neighborhood has since transformed into a cultural hotspot teeming with art galleries, trendy bars and eclectic boutiques. It’s a place where old meets new, offering a rich tapestry of experiences for those willing to explore.

Glass and mirrored facade to the CCCB (Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona)

CCCB (Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona)

One of the sites worth visiting in El Raval is the CCCB, a complex dedicated to exploring contemporary culture through exhibitions, debates and festivals. Housed in a former almshouse, the building is a blend of historic and modern architecture. It’s an excellent starting point for those interested in the city’s vibrant cultural scene.

Calle Montalegre, 5 
Ciutat Vella, 08001

The small Bishop's Bridge in the dark quiet Gothic Quarter of Barcelona

The Gothic Quarter: A Journey Through Time 

While not exactly under the radar, the winding alleys of the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) hold plenty of surprises. Begin your exploration at the landmark La Seu, also known as the Barcelona Cathedral. Wander through the narrow, pedestrian-friendly streets where layers of history, architecture and secluded squares dating back to the 15th century await discovery. 

Keep an eye out for a set of streetlights commissioned by the city council and designed in 1878 by Gaudí, one of only two works he created for the administration shortly after graduating as an architect from la Escola Tècnica Superior d’Arquitectura de Barcelona. 

Two bikes parked along a fence by a reddish stone fortress wall in Plaça dels Traginers in Barcelona

Plaça dels Traginers

Stop in the early afternoon for a glass of vermouth in this plaza, where locals like to leisurely meet next to the ruins of an ancient Roman fortress. 

People sit on the steps of the gray stone building in Plaça del Reí  in Barcelona

Plaça del Reí 

Kings Square is a tranquil square surrounded by Gothic buildings, including the Palau Reial Major, the medieval residence of Catalan counts and kings. The square’s understated elegance makes it a perfect spot to soak in the history and ambiance of old Barcelona. It’s thought that King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella greeted Christopher Columbus from the steps fanning out from the corner of the square after he arrived home from his first voyage to the so-called New World. 

A tattooed woman looks at the pipes on display at Barcelona's Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum

Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum

Located in the former Palau Mornau, this niche museum covers the history of pot and hemp. Its permanent collection features around 8,000 objects related to cannabis cultivation and use throughout history, including medicine bottles, apothecary kits, paintings, pipes and film posters. Exhibits cover the recreational and medicinal uses, industrial applications, legislative history and horticultural aspects of cannabis cultivation.

Carrer Ample, 35
Ciutat Vella, 08002

People eat at long tables that fill the street in the Poble-sec neighborhood in Barcelona

Poble-sec: A Taste of Local Life 

Abutting Montjuïc hill is Poble-sec, which translates to “Dry Village” in Catalan because it lacked water until the late 19th century. This hood, with its signature sloping streets, combines a modern, lively vibe with Old World charm. It’s a great place to experience the everyday life of Barcelonians.

A server in black carries a wooden board with a bunch of pintxos of sliders

Carrer de Blai

If you’re looking for Barcelona highlights, head to Carrer de Blai, a street famous for its many budget-friendly pintxos bars. Pronounced “peen-choz,” the name comes from the Spanish verb pinchar, meaning to poke or stab. Sampling these small, skewered bite-sized snacks by hopping from bar to bar is a popular local tradition, usually enjoyed while waiting for dinner, which typically doesn’t begin until around 9 p.m. at the earliest.

Telefèric de Montjuïc Cable Car above the city of Barcelona

Telefèric de Montjuïc Cable Car

For breathtaking views of the city, take the Montjuïc cable car. The journey offers panoramic vistas of Barcelona, the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding hills. At the top, you’ll find Castell de Montjuïc (Montjuïc Castle), a historic fortress with an intriguing past.

People eat in an outdoor courtyard in a plaza in Gràcia under purple flowering trees

Gràcia: The Village Within the City

Gràcia was once a separate village before being annexed by Barcelona in the late 19th century. Despite its integration into the city, Gràcia has retained its distinct, bohemian character. Its bustling plazas and narrow streets are full of life, especially during the Festa Major de Gràcia, a vibrant local festival held every August.

White umbrellas over tables and chairs in Plaça del Sol, with apartment buildings behind in Barcelona

Plaça del Sol

This lively square is the beating heart of Gràcia. Locals gather here to relax, socialize and enjoy a caña (a small glass of beer). Surrounding the square are numerous bars and cafés, making it an ideal spot to experience the neighborhood’s convivial spirit.

Plaça del Sol, 23
Gràcia, 08012

A strange red and yellow plant in the Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera in Barcelona

Parks and Recreation 

In a bustling metropolis like Barcelona, finding tranquil green spaces can be a delightful surprise. The city has several parks and gardens that offer a peaceful retreat from the urban hustle, many of which remain relatively undiscovered by tourists.

Cacti and palms in the Jardins de Mossen Costa i Llobera in Barcelona

Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera

Perched on the port-facing slopes of Montjuïc mountain, the Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera offer a spectacular view of the city’s coastline and port. With over 800 desert and subtropical species of succulents and cacti, the garden makes for a striking backdrop and is the perfect spot for reflection and relaxation.

Carretera de Miramar, 38
Sants-Montjuïc 08038

The hedge maze at Parc del Laberint d’Horta in Barcelona, Spain

Parc del Laberint d’Horta

Parc del Laberint d’Horta, Barcelona’s oldest historical garden, is a delightful surprise in the city’s Horta-Guinardó district. Situated on the former estate of the Desvalls family, it features an 18th century Neoclassical garden, a 19th century Romantic garden, pavilions with statues from Greek mythology and a cypress hedge maze, which explains the “Laberint” (Labyrinth) in its name.

Passeig dels Castanyers, 1
Horta-Guinardó 08035

A waterfall at the monastery of Sant Miquel del Fai, built on the side of a cliff outside of Barcelona in Spain

Sant Miquel del Fai

If you’re planning to spend several days in Barcelona and are looking to explore something farther afield, Sant Miquel del Fai is about 45 minutes away. Built into the face of the Bertí cliffs, this ancient monastery offers stunning views of the Catalan countryside. Visitors can explore the main church, the chapel of Sant Martí and various other structures within the complex, including the Cova de Sant Miquel caves, which feature impressive stalactites and stalagmites.

BV-1485
Kilómetro 7
08416 Riells del fai
Barcelona

Aerial view of a roundabout with monument in Barcelona

Gaudí’s Great, But…

Whether you’re wandering through the bohemian streets of El Raval or savoring the culinary delights of a hidden tapas bar, these lesser-known Barcelona highlights reveal a side of the city often overshadowed by its more famous landmarks. Your Spanish adventure awaits! –Natalie Howard

Museo de Málaga: Art, Archaeology and Awe

Explore the Malaga Museum, a tribute to the past that feels completely current in the Palacio de la Aduana. 

Gladiadores / La Meta Sudante (Gladiators / The Meta Sudans) by José Moreno Carbanero at the Museo de Malaga

The Malaga Museum has an impressive fine art collection, including Gladiadores/La Meta Sudante (Gladiators/The Meta Sudans) by José Moreno Carbanero from 1882.

Málaga, one of the world’s oldest cities, isn’t short on sunlight, history or art. With its dizzying array of attractions, the city offers much to explore. The Centro Histórico, a pedestrian-friendly area, is home to many notable sites, including the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares (Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions), the Renaissance-style Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Málaga Cathedral) and modern art institutions like the Centre Pompidou Málaga. Nearby, the Alcazaba fortress stands guard on the hillside above a Roman amphitheater, connected to the Gibralfaro Castle by a fortified walkway.

Museo de Malaga exterior with palm trees

The building that houses the museum is called the Palacio de la Aduana and was the customs house for the busy port.

History of the Museum of Málaga

A standout among these cultural treasures is the Museo de Málaga (Museum of Málaga). Housed in the Palacio de la Aduana (Customs House), this magnificent 17th century Neoclassical landmark is nestled between the verdant Parque de Málaga and the Ayuntamiento de Málaga (Málaga City Hall) in the heart of the Old Quarter.

Its construction was initiated in 1787 under King Charles III in response to Málaga’s growing maritime trade, and was conceived by architect Manuel Martín Rodríguez, who drew inspiration from Madrid’s palatial Real Casa de la Aduana (Royal Customs House). 

With over 2,000 works of art and more than 15,000 artifacts in its archaeology collection, the museum offers a vast and captivating chronicle of Málaga’s history.

Although the project actually started in 1791, it encountered several delays, including Napoleon’s failed attempt to conquer Spain during the Peninsular War, which pushed its completion date to 1829.

Nearly two centuries after its construction, the renovated venue reopened to the public, preserving the building’s original character while updating its interior to meet 21st century standards for accessibility. 

The museum unites the collections of the Real Academia de San Telmo (Saint Elmo Academy of Fine Arts) and the Museo Arqueológico de Málaga (Málaga Archaeological Museum) under one roof. With over 2,000 works of art and more than 15,000 artifacts in its archaeology collection, the museum offers a vast and captivating chronicle of Málaga’s history.

Archeological artifacts from Ancient Rome in the visitable warehouse of the Museum of Malaga

A mix of unmarked artifacts, including green glazed pottery and religious statuary, is displayed on wooden shelves inside the Visitable Warehouse section of the Museum of Málaga.

Ground Floor Visitable Warehouse

After paying the admission fee of €1.50 (approximately $1.63) per person, Wally and I began our visit on the ground floor with the Almacén Visitable (Visitable Warehouse), a storeroom of sorts, where objects are organized by time period and displayed in drawers and on shelves and wooden platforms. (It reminded us a bit of the ramshackle Egyptian Museum in Cairo.)

Terracotta heads and feet in a cabinet in the warehouse section of the Malaga Museum

A collection of Hellenistic pottery, including terracotta heads, pig figurines and feet fills one of the display cabinets.

Among the artifacts were ancient vases, pots and fragments of centuries-old marble column capitals, feet, torsos and heads, displayed alongside 19th century oil paintings culled from the Fine Arts collection.

The warehouse is fun to explore, with its jumble of marble architectural fragments, a pair of Christ figures missing their crosses and a cathedral bell.

Models of a palace and colosseum in the Museum of Malaga's warehouse

Look for the scale models, including one of the Roman amphitheater and (we think) the interior of Málaga Cathedral.

Wally and I oohed and ahhed over a scale model of the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro. In another part of the room, a glass display case held several devotional sculptures, including religious images of the Virgin Mary, underscoring the reverence and care with which these objects are treated.

A view of the palatial courtyard of the Museum of Málaga with terracotta busts

A view of the palatial courtyard of the Museum of Málaga. The classical terracotta busts were added in 1885 to commemorate Queen Isabella II’s son Alfonso XII.

Central Courtyard 

Following our tour of the storehouse, we wandered through the expansive central courtyard, graced with palm and orange trees, a fountain and informational panels recounting the building’s history, including Queen Isabella II’s visit in 1862. Terracotta busts, added to honor her son Alfonso XII’s visit 23 years later, have adorned the uppermost balustrade of the courtyard gallery ever since.

Arch with poster promoting a show on the works of Picasso at the Museum of Malaga

When we visited, there was a special exhibit on the hometown hero Picasso.

Special Exhibit on Picasso

The port city is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and, during our visit, it was hosting the exhibition La presencia de Picasso (The Presence of Picasso) to mark the 50th anniversary of his death. 

Looking into the galley of Picasso's works, showing satyrs on a blue wall with a couple looking at the drawings

A selection of lithographs from Picasso’s Faunes et Flore d’Antibes series at The Presence of Picasso exhibition.

On a separate note, the Museum of Fine Arts previously occupied the Palacio de Buenavista (Buenavista Palace), but it was unceremoniously packed up and placed in storage in 1997 to make way for the Museo Picasso Málaga (Málaga Picasso Museum).

Picasso painting of a pipe-playing faun shown at the Museo de Malaga

Fauno Blanco Tocando el Aulós (White Faun Playing the Flute) by Pablo Picasso, 1946

The exhibition featured lithographs from the Faunes et Flore d’Antibes series and engravings from Deux Contes, both drawn from the Fine Arts permanent collection. Wally, a big fan of mythology (and the male form), especially liked the collection. 

A glimpse of what awaits you at the beginning of the Fine Arts section of the museum.

First Floor: Fine Arts

Upstairs (keep in mind that in Europe the first floor is what we Americans would call the second floor), the Fine Arts section covers a broad spectrum of 19th century artworks, including pieces by old masters like Antonio Muñoz Degrain, Bernardo Ferrándiz y Bádenes, Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada, José Gutiérrez de la Vega and Pedro de Mena, among others. It also features works by prominent members of the Málaga School of Painting, such as Alfonso Ponce de León y Cabello, José Suárez Peregrin and Pedro Sáenz Sáenz.

Painting of The Acrobats at the Museum of Malaga

Los Saltimbanquis (The Acrobats) by José Suarez Perigrín, 1932

Painting of the Judgement of Paris at the Museo de Malaga

El Juicio de Paris (The Judgment of Paris) by Enrique Simonet y Lombardo, 1904

Painting of After the Bullfight in the Museum of Malaga

Después de la Corrida (After the Bullfight) by José Denis Belgrano, 1890

Painting of nude men, Study of the Male Anatomy, at the Museum of Malaga

Estudio de Anatomía Masculina (Study of the Male Anatomy) by Bernardo Ferrándiz y Bádenes, 1862

Statuette of a rape, Tarquin and Lucretia, in the Malaga Museum

Tarquin y Lucrecia (Tarquin and Lucretia) by José López García, 1988

Allegory of the History, Industry and Commerce of Málaga by Bernardo Ferrándiz and Antonio Muñoz Degrain at the Museo de Malaga

Alegoría de la Historía, Industría y Comercio de Málaga (Allegory of the History, Industry and Commerce of Málaga) by Bernardo Ferrández and Antonio Muñoz Degrain, 1870

The first piece you’ll see as you enter these galleries is a maquette, a final study for the ceiling of the Teatro Cervantes by the Valencian-born painter Bernardo Ferrándiz. In 1870, he and Degrain were commissioned to decorate the theater. Ferrándiz depicted himself as Mephistopheles, the demon who barters for Faust’s soul, on the stage set. 

The female figure, possibly a symbol of the city, sits atop a shrine holding a caduceus— a symbol associated with Mercury, the god of commerce and prosperity. Other aspects of the city’s booming cultural and economic success, including agriculture, industry, transportation and fishing, highlight its strategic location as a trading port.

However, to me, some of the most interesting pieces came from religious institutions. Like the Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba, this museum’s collection includes significant works of art, images and architectural elements seized from the deconsecrated monastic properties, including the ex-convents and monasteries of the Poor Clares of Santa Clara, San Bernardo, La Merced and San Pedro de Alcántara.

Wooden gargoyle Mudejar ceiling corbels in the Museo de Malaga

Mudejar ceiling corbels 

Next, you’ll notice a set of four carved oak corbels, or brackets. They originally adorned the ends of timber beams in the Convent of La Merced and became part of the academy’s collections in 1915. These architectural elements illustrated the sins and vices parishioners were expected to renounce before entering the holy space.

Head of Saint John of God by Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada at the Museum of Malaga

Head of Saint John of God by Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada, circa 1755-1765

Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada’s sculptural style was greatly influenced by Pedro de Mena — in fact, for many years, this work was attributed to Mena. However, documents found for the production of four sculptures at Parroquia Santiago Apóstol in Málaga confirmed Ortiz as the artist. This head is the only surviving piece from that series, which was largely destroyed during the protests of 1931. An anonymous citizen saved this from the flames and left it at the parish door in a basket, ensuring that future generations could appreciate its artistic quality.

Ecce Homo by Pedro de Mena, a bloodied and bound statue of Christ with the crown of thorns at the Museum of Malaga

Ecce Homo by Pedro de Mena, circa 1676-1680

Throughout his lifetime, Pedro de Mena was in high demand, securing a steady stream of public and private commissions across Spain and Latin America. It’s believed that Ecce Homo came from the estate of El Retiro in Málaga and was first owned by Bishop Alonso de Santo Tomás, who hired Mena to carve images for his private oratory while the sculptor was working for the bishop’s order at the Monastery of Santo Domingo.

(Postrimerías) A Moro Muerto, Gran Lanzada (Dying Moments) Kicking a Man While He’s Down by Bernardo Ferrándiz y Badenes at the Museum of Malaga

(Postrimerías) A Moro Muerto, Gran Lanzada, or (Dying Moments) Kicking a Man While He’s Down by Bernardo Ferrándiz y Badenes, 1881

This small painting might seem unremarkable at first glance, but it has an interesting story behind it. The artwork was inspired by an actual event that forever changed the artist’s life. Bernardo Ferrándiz y Badenes had a physical confrontation with Juan Nepomuceno Ávila, a fellow academy member, municipal architect and close friend of the Marquis of Salamanca. The dispute arose because Ávila denied financial support to the San Telmo Fine Art School, where Ferrándiz was the director at the time.

Ávila used the incident to have Ferrándiz expelled from the institution. Ferrándiz subsequently was accused of attempted murder and imprisoned. Although the exact details of the altercation remain unclear, the event left Ferrándiz shaken. The once-prominent artist faced social ostracism, which plays out in his artwork, where he depicted himself as the skeleton of a cat, with Ávila as a mouse. He inscribed the following on the frame: “Fierce king, yesterday I gave you my laws to respect, and today, with death upon me, even you come to trample the dust of what I was.”

Additionally, the museum has a small collection of Spanish modern art up to the 1950s, including works by José López García, José Moreno Villa, Juan Fernándo Béjar and, yes, Picasso. 

Green ancient Corinthian helmet at the Museo de Malaga

This Italo-Corinthian helmet most likely belonged to a high-ranking warrior. It was unearthed in 2012 by archaeologists excavating a site between Calles Jinete and Refino in Málaga’s historic quarter.

Second Floor: Archeological Section 

The second floor (third floor to you Americans) galleries focus on archaeology, with the first two rooms dedicated to the private collection of Jorge Loring Oyarzábal and his wife, Amelia Heredia Livermore, also known as the Marquis and Marquesa de Casa Loring.

The Lorings had a passion for antiques and collecting. One of their most important acquisitions was several pieces from the collection of 18th century Córdoban antiquarian Pedro Leonardo de Villacevallos, which included capitals from Medina Azahara, Umayyad-period tombstones and sculptural relics from Ancient Rome.

Statue heads on pedestals in the visitable warehouse of the Museo de Malaga

A collection of marble busts, and funerary plaques from the Villacevallos collection acquired by the Lorings

Bloody beheaded head of St. John the Baptist in the Museum of Malaga's Fine Art collection

This 18th century religious sculpture, depicting the realistic severed head of Saint John the Baptist, is paraded through the streets of Málaga during Holy Week. 

Mosaic of Priapus, with his monster cock, at the Museo de Malaga

A mosaic fragment depicting Priapus, the son of Venus and Bacchus. Commonly shown with a massive erection and basket of fruit, it’s no surprise he’s a god of fertility.

The remaining halls cover a vast historical timeline, showcasing how each civilization — from prehistory through the Phoenician, Roman, al-Andalus and Christian Reconquest periods — contributed to the city’s cultural mosaic. In recent decades, artifacts unearthed during construction and in excavations carried out by the University of Málaga have been added to the collection.

Ancient Roman mosaic of the goddess Venus at the Museum of Malaga

A detail of the center of a 1st century Roman mosaic depicting the goddess Venus surrounded by a menagerie of birds.

Speaking of mosaics, a 1st century floor panel depicting the birth of Venus, the goddess of love, sex and beauty, takes center stage in the museum’s Roman galleries. Discovered in 1956, it was found lining the floor of a Roman villa in the nearby town of Cártama. This impressive mosaic measures 13 by 20 feet (4 by 6 meters). It shows the naked goddess reclining on a giant scallop shell above a couple of dolphins.

Headless marble statue of La Dama de la Aduana in the lobby of the Museo de Malaga

The 2nd century Roman statue known as La Dama de la Aduana, discovered while digging the foundations of the museum in 1791, welcomes visitors at the entrance.

A Trip Back in Time at the Museo de Málaga

To sum up our experience, the Museo de Málaga was more than just a tourist attraction. It was a journey through epochs that celebrates Málaga’s multifaceted identity and enduring spirit. Its artworks and archaeological objects are well organized and clearly marked in both English and Spanish. As you walk through its halls, the city’s colorful history comes alive. –Duke

The fountain in the central courtyard of the Museo de Malaga

Museo de Málaga

Plaza de la Aduana 1
29015 Málaga
Spain

 

Las Setas de Sevilla FAQ: Seville’s Wooden Wonderland

Everything you need to know about the futuristic mushroom marvel Metropol Parasol in Plaza de la Encarnación.

Las Setas in Seville

One minute you’re walking down one of the shopping thoroughfares of Sevilla, Spain, and the next you come upon a plaza with mesmerizing, undulating woven wooden structures that look like a grove of gigantic mushrooms. It’s as if you’ve stepped into a fairy tale (or a Dr. Seuss book).

That’s exactly why this quirky sculpture, officially named Metropol Parasol, will always be known as Las Setas, or the Mushrooms, to locals and tourists alike. (Sort of like how no one calls the iconic silver sculpture in Chicago by its real name, Cloud Gate — it’s the Bean.)

It’s as if you’ve stepped into a fairy tale (or a Dr. Seuss book).

Here are some of the most frequently asked questions about Las Setas.

People gather and hang out under the Setas in Seville

Why is Las Setas called Metropol Parasol?

Las Setas (aka Setas de Sevilla) is officially named Metropol Parasol. “Metropol” highlights the sculpture’s urban significance and integration into Sevilla’s cityscape, while “Parasol” refers to its umbrella-like structure, which provides much-needed shade in the scorching Andalusian climate.

People walk and sit on benches under Las Setas in Seville

What is the history of Las Setas in Seville?

The history of Las Setas de Sevilla begins with the need to renovate la Plaza de la Encarnación, which had become neglected. (You’d never know it now, as it’s surrounded by boutique shops and restaurants.) 

In 2004, an international competition was held to redesign the square, and German architect Jürgen Mayer’s innovative wooden structure took the prize. 

The project, completed in 2011, aimed to revitalize the area by combining modern architecture with the preservation of historic Roman ruins found during construction.

Las Setas de Sevilla is more than just an architectural wonder; it’s a lesson in urban transformation. It’s about taking risks, breaking molds and creating spaces that blend the old with the mind-bogglingly new. Sevilla’s got its historical charms — but Las Setas shows it’s also got its finger on the pulse of modern innovation. The once-sleepy Plaza de la Encarnación is now wide awake. 

A column of Las Setas in Seville, with people underneath

When was Las Setas built? How long did it take to build?

From groundbreaking in 2005 to its grand opening in 2011, Las Setas’ journey was more of a marathon than a sprint. What accounted for the delays? Blame it on the unexpected yet fascinating archaeological finds beneath its feet. Turns out, building over centuries-old ruins isn’t exactly a walk in the park.

Some of the ruins in the Antiquarium under Las Setas in Sevilla

What are the architectural ruins below Las Setas de Sevilla?

Beneath the whimsical wooden canopy of Las Setas lies a treasure trove of ancient history. As the construction for this modern marvel began, builders unearthed significant archaeological ruins, revealing Sevilla’s layered past. 

This subterranean wonderland, known as the Antiquarium, showcases remnants from the Roman Empire, including mosaics, pottery and foundations of buildings dating back to the 1st century CE. Visitors can also glimpse traces of a 12th century Islamic Almohad house, bridging Sevilla’s Roman and Moorish eras.

Two rounded outcroppings of Las Setas in Sevilla and the plaza

What inspired the design of Las Setas?

Imagine what would happen if the vaults of the Seville Cathedral and local ficus trees had a baby. That’s Las Setas for you — a unique design that not only catches the eye but also connects nature to urban life.

Mayer wanted the sculpture to be not only striking but functional. “How do you approach a space that’s supposed to become the revitalized heart of a city?” he asked in 032c magazine. “The biggest asset that one can have, for three quarters of the year, is shade. So we tried out different geometric ideas, and in the end we decided on these circular elements that counter and respond to the variables of the square in a flexible way. It doesn’t seem rigid.”

Closeup of the crisscrossed woodwork of Las Setas in Sevilla

What is Las Setas made of?

Las Setas de Sevilla is made of laminated timber. It holds the honor of being the world’s largest wooden structure, crafted of pine from Finland and coated with polyurethane for durability. 

The intricate honeycomb design consists of wooden lattices draped over columns. More than 3,400 wooden and concrete pieces were fit together like a gigantic jigsaw puzzle.

Who knew a bunch of wood planks could look so cool?

How much did Las Setas cost to build?

The construction of Las Setas de Sevilla cost about 100 million euros — ballooning significantly from its original €86 million budget. This substantial investment covered the innovative design, the use of high-quality laminated timber and the various facilities housed within the structure, including an archaeological museum, a market and event spaces.

The top walkway of Las Setas de Sevilla lit up purple at night

Can you go to the top of Las Setas in Seville?

Yes, you can go to the top of Las Setas.

An elevated 380-yard (350-meter) walkway allows you to saunter around and through the parasols, offering dizzying views of Sevilla’s classic rooftops and plazas. The walkway culminates at the topmost mushroom cap, almost 80 feet (24 meters) high, featuring a viewing platform where you can pretend you’re royalty surveying your kingdom below.

Visitors can access this area via elevators housed in the concrete columns of the structure.

Two boys sit on the steps of Las Setas in Sevilla

How can I buy tickets for Las Setas de Sevilla?

Ready to explore this mushroom wonderland? Tickets to visit the top of Las Setas start at €5 (free for kids under 6), with options to add a sprinkle of virtual reality or a dash of audio guide to your experience for €3 each. 

You can buy them online, or onsite in the lower level.

Las Setas de Sevilla lit up purple, blue and green at night

What are the opening hours of Las Setas?

Las Setas de Sevilla is open from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., making it the perfect spot for both early birds and night owls. Just keep in mind it’s closed on major holidays — because even mushrooms need a day off.

People dine outside in the plaza by Las Setas in Sevilla

Where to eat at Las Setas?

The dining options at and near Las Setas de Sevilla are as eclectic and exciting as the structure itself. Here’s a rundown of some spots that range from casual bites to more refined dining:

1. La Mala Brunch: Located right under Las Setas, this gem serves up Mediterranean and healthy bites for a casual brunch or tapas session. Think avocado toast (with oversized wooden mushrooms).

2. Ibericos Vera: Right inside the Mercado de la Encarnación, this stall offers traditional Spanish tapas. Good for a quick, delicious bite.

3. Cervecería La Sureña: Serving up cuisine from the South of Spain, this bar is great for an affordable lunch or evening drinks with a killer view.

4. Tropiqual: Tired of tapas? If you’re craving sushi or steak, this upscale option works for when you’re feeling a bit fancy.

5. La Gorda de Las Setas: Offering Mediterranean and Spanish dishes, this spot is perfect for enjoying tapas with a side of architectural awe.

6. LaSanta: A short walk from Las Setas, this spot serves international and Mediterranean dishes in a casual setting.

7. Burro Canaglia Bar & Resto: Dishes up Italian food in a stylish atmosphere. Perfect for when you’re wanting pizza or pasta.

8. Patio San Eloy: A casual bar serving tapas. Great for a budget-friendly yet tasty meal.

9. Doña Encarna: This chic spot offers traditional local fare that’s even better than your abuelita makes.

10. Virgen Coffee: The best place to grab a quick coffee break, making some of the best lattes in Seville.

11. Tablao Flamenco Las Setas: Combine your meal with a show. Enjoy live flamenco performances along with signature cocktails and traditional Andalusian flavors for an immersive cultural experience.

The children's play area under Las Setas in Sevilla

What’s there to do at Las Setas besides enjoying the view?

Really, Las Setas de Sevilla is a cool urban square to hang out in, people-watch or read on a bench. Children ride bikes and clamber about the small playlot. 

But beyond its spectacular views, Las Setas is a treasure trove of history with the Antiquarium, where ancient Roman and Moorish artifacts are displayed. Tickets are €2.

And don’t miss the light show — a nightly spectacle that turns the structure into a glowing piece of rainbow-hued art.

People hang out under Las Setas in Sevilla

Where is Las Setas located in Seville?

Las Setas is in the Plaza de la Encarnación, a central square in Sevilla. It’s about a 10-minute walk due north of the cathedral. 

What events are held at Las Setas in Seville?

Las Setas hosts a variety of events throughout the year, including cultural performances, art exhibitions, concerts and markets. The elevated plaza and the shaded areas below are versatile spaces used for different types of public and private events, making it a vibrant community hub in Sevilla.

People under Las Setas in Sevilla, including a woman in a flowing skirt and a little girl on a pink bike

Why was Las Setas controversial?

Las Setas didn’t sprout superfans overnight — it also grew a fair share of controversy. Critics argued that its modern design clashed with Sevilla’s historic aesthetic. Plus, the project’s high cost — rumored to hit the €100 million mark — didn’t sit well in a country there the economy was taking a siesta. 

And the local Muslim community thought the Mushrooms looked a bit too phallic for their tastes. 

Despite the initial pushback, Las Setas has ripened into a beloved icon of the city, showing that even the most divisive fungi can find their fan base. 

The undulating, waffle-like Las Setas in Sevilla

Las Setas: Sevilla’s Fungal Fantasia

So, there you have it — Las Setas in a nutshell. It’s weird, wonderful and unapologetically Sevilla. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast or just someone in search of the perfect Instagram backdrop, Las Setas is a can’t-miss spectacle. –Wally

 

The Art of Olive Oil Production at LA Organic

From ancient groves to modern architecture: Take a tour of LA Organic, dedicated to the production of award-winning organic olive oils and co-founded by Philippe Starck.

Four friends stand in front of a large olive tree at LA Organic in Ronda, Spain

José, Wally, Duke and Jo enjoyed learning about olive oil production at LA Organic — and tasting the goods afterward.

When I reflect on our time in the South of Spain, particularly our culinary adventures spent with our friends Jo and José, aceite de oliva, aka olive oil, immediately springs to mind — it’s essentially the foundation of Andalusian cooking.

It takes about five years for an olive tree to mature. They typically yield between 33 to 44 pounds of olives, resulting in 2 to 5 liters of oil each year.

Each morning starts with a humble piece of toasted bread, drizzled with olive oil and topped with grated tomato, to accompany a morning cup of coffee. Jo and José always had fresh molletes, a traditional ciabatta-like bread that they picked up from a local shop near their flat in Málaga

Not to mention boquerones, a shareable and delicious appetizer of tender anchovy filets marinated in vinegar and olive oil that we consumed with gusto — something my younger self would have ignorantly declined.

Olive groves at LA Organic and a view of Philippe Starck’s avant-garde La Almazara, a mill museum

A view of Philippe Starck’s avant-garde La Almazara, a mill museum that was partially built when we visited

A Starck Contrast

During our visit to Ronda, after visiting the church of Santa María la Mayor, Jo and José arranged for the four of us to take a guided tour of LA Organic (pronounced like the Californian city). The artisanal producer in the Andalusian countryside is located about two miles (three kilometers) outside of the charming town of Ronda, and was originally established in the 1990s as La Amarilla. It has since developed into an impressive full-scale business.

This collaboration involves Spanish investment banker Pedro Gómez de Baeza, whose family owns LA Amarilla, French designer Philippe Starck, and renowned oenophile Michel Rolland. Gómez de Baeza and Starck met in Madrid during the opening of Beatriz, a former theater converted into a restaurant. The interior was reimagined by the designer, and the pair became fast friends.

The bright yellow entrance with an olive painted on it at the Greenhouse at LA Organic in Ronda, Spain

The sunny yellow entrance to the Greenhouse at LA Organic features an oversized single green olive and leaf, the same design used on their packaging, which was created by Starck in 2009.

LA Organic: What’s in a Name?

The “LA” in its name refers to La Amarilla, one of the centuries-old fincas (farms) within the sprawling complex, where more than 200 years ago, a small sisterhood of nuns lived, harvested and produced olive oil from the fruit of its ancient grove, some 800 years old — a tradition that the Gómez de Baeza family continues to this day.

Red glass doors at the entrance to LA Organic in Ronda, Spain

Part of the interior the Greenhouse will have you seeing red — an homage to the local passion for bullfighting.

LA Organic Tour

After pulling into the red dirt parking lot and stepping out of the car, we exchanged curious glances, and a smile spread across my face. In the distance, among the neat rows of gnarled, knotted olive tree trunks, stood a crane and a large cuboid building, with an expressive eye peeking out from its terracotta-colored façade — the avant-garde future mill and museum of LA Organic, designed by Starck. It’s officially called La Almazara (The Mill), but nicknamed “El Toro” due to the huge horn planned to be added to its exterior.

The four of us took the red dirt path leading from the parking lot to a bright yellow building emblazoned with a massive green olive, the same one that appears on its packaging. I would later learn that this building is known as the Greenhouse, but to my eyes it looked more like a barn. 

Olive trees and the back patio of the Greenhouse at LA Organic in Ronda, Spain

The back of the long, narrow Greenhouse has an outdoor patio.

Inside, we were provided with wireless headsets to help us hear our guide during the walking tour. We also watched a short video that recounted the origins of “liquid gold” in the Mediterranean and outlined the educational vision of LA Organic.

Once the video ended, our group followed our guide Úrsula outside. She began by telling us that the estates of LA Organic encompass 64 acres (26 hectares) and, in addition to the aforementioned ancient olive grove of La Amarilla, has over 6,000 different varieties of olive trees. 

Man looks in a large mirror in the groves of LA Organic

There are art installations by Starck in the groves.

Two men stand by mirror art installation at LA Organic in Ronda

Duke and Wally loved the giant mirror on the grounds.

As we followed Úrsula through the groves, she explained that it takes approximately five years for an olive tree to mature. During this time, each tree typically yields between 33 to 44 pounds (15 to 20 kilograms) of olives, resulting in 67 to 269 fluid ounces (2 to 5 liters) of oil per year.

A stone guardaviña in the groves of LA Organic in Ronda, Spain

A rustic guardaviña, a stone building used for storing tools and providing shelter during the heat of the day, as well as protection from rain, stands among the olive groves.

Olive Oil Production at LA Organic 

We learned about the painstaking process of producing their exceptional organic olive oil. Úrsula explained that on harvest day, which would be happening in November, workers use 22-foot-long (7-meter) wooden sticks, known as a vareo, to beat the branches. Nets are spread beneath the trees to catch and prevent the falling fruit from landing on the ground, which would taint the harvest. 

The oldest tree, a gnarled olive oil variety, at LA Organic in Ronda, Spain

This majestic, olive tree is the oldest on the property — ringing in at 800 or so years!

The olives are then collected from the nets, transported to the Almazaras de la Subbética, a mill just under an hour away, and pressed shortly thereafter to preserve the integrity of the flavor. This results in an olive oil with the lowest possible acidity, without any chemical additives or fertilizers. 

One of the varieties at LA Organic, the hojiblanca olive tree is typical of central Andalusia and is characterized by the white tone on the underside of its leaves. 

Like a Virgin

Seven organic varieties grown here are used for production, including the soft and fruity arbequina, grassy hojiblanca, briny manzanilla, peppery pajarera, slightly bitter picual (named for its pointy shape), herbaceous picudo and verdial. Rolland applies his wine skills to masterfully blend these varieties, depending on the desired intensity of the oil.

Like coffee and wine, weather, terrain and soil conditions play a crucial role in determining both the quantity and quality of olives at LA Organic, with the most fruitful groves cultivated in the fertile hills. 

Úrsula explains how drought has been a big problem of late, with decreased yields driving up the price of olive oil across Spain. (P.S. Using an umbrella is a good idea, with much of the tour exposed in the blazing heat.)

Dealing With Drought

Olive oil production in Spain dropped by about one-third in 2023 due to a prolonged drought caused by a string of heatwaves and nearly three years of reduced rainfall. 

As the world’s leading producer of olives and olive oil, Spain supplies approximately 40% of the global output, with around 75% coming from the Andalusian region. Jo and José told us that, with the price of this cooking staple increasing, locals had resorted to stealing oil from restaurants.

Úrsula explains how olives are processed at LA Organic using the cold press extraction method. 

More Than a Splash in the Pan

The tour culminated where it began, at the Greenhouse, with a tasting of their oils. LA Organic specializes in extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), which means that all their oils undergo a single pressing, using the cold-press extraction method. 

This process involves crushing the olives into a pulp while keeping the temperature no higher than 80.6 degrees Fahrenheit or 27 degrees Celsius (the “cold” part of the process), followed by centrifugation to separate the oil from the pulp. Lower-quality oils — those that aren’t extra virgin — are often crushed multiple times and at higher temperatures to extract more oil from the fruit.

How to Taste Olive Oil

The tasting session featured four different kinds of olive oil, which we sampled both with and without bread. Our instructions were to pour a small amount of oil into our tasting cups and swirl it gently to release its aroma. We lifted the cups to our nose and took a deep inhalation, noting the differences in smell between the mild arbequina and picudo, intense yet smooth picual, hojiblanca and arbequina blend, as well as the grassy 100% hojiblanca oil. 

Our tasting spread

When tasting olive oil, take a small sip and allow it to coat your mouth. Pay attention to the flavors and aromas present. It’s common to experience a peppery sensation in the throat, as well as notes of grassiness and bitterness, which are indicative of high-quality oil. 

Inside the Greenhouse, where you can taste the oils, order drinks and nibblies, and buy some bottles to take home.

We bought a couple of bottles of the milder LA Organic Suave and a bottle of organic balsamic with sherry vinegar to take back to Chicago with us. (We’re ashamed to say that the bottle of olive oil we purchased as a gift ended up being used in our kitchen.)

A corten steel structure featuring a square cutout frames a stunning view of the Grazalema Sierra mountains.

The Deets

I highly recommend a tour of LA Organic as a way to learn about the cultivation and production of Andalusia’s most important export. 

The walking tour and tasting cost $21 (20€) per person and lasted approximately 45 minutes, with an additional 45 minutes spent sampling their oils. 

Our guide, Úrsula, spoke both English and Spanish fluently. She was friendly, enthusiastic and patient, taking the time to share her knowledge and answer all of our questions. We left feeling inspired by their commitment to sustainability and were impressed by the quality of LA Organic’s olive oils. –Duke

LA Organic 

Carretera Ardales Ronda A 367
Kilometro 39,5
29400 Ronda, Málaga
Spain

 

Magic Mushroom Retreats: The Psychedelic Side of Barcelona

Embark on a psilocybin-fueled spirit quest in Spain’s strangest city. But what should you expect? How do shrooms work?

Embark on a journey of self-discovery and healing at a magic mushroom retreat, (perhaps in Spain?), where guided experiences unlock the mind’s potential and foster profound personal growth.

Barcelona isn’t just your typical tourist hotspot with pretty sights and tasty tapas; it’s also an underground capital for those looking to flip their mental scripts with magic mushroom retreats. The city offers a variety of unique experiences, with one of the most transformative being retreats that harness the therapeutic benefits of psilocybin, the active compound in magic mushrooms. These retreats aim to provide a secure and supportive setting for participants to undergo profound personal development journeys.

Word on the street (and in the hallowed halls of science) is that this mind-bending compound might just be the magic bullet for battling depression, anxiety and PTSD.
Exterior of La Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona

Gaudí’s la Sagrada Família masterwork dominates the Barcelona skyline.

The Trip of a Lifetime

Enter the emerging world of magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona. Think of them as the love child of ancient shamanic rituals and cutting-edge neuroscience. It’s where you can unlock new dimensions of your consciousness with psilocybin. Guided by pros in the comfiest of settings, participants embark on a trip to explore the wilds of their consciousness that’s set up to be as safe as possible.

Dried magic mushrooms on white background

Psilocybin, a natural compound with psychoactive properties, is found in certain species of mushrooms.

What is psilocybin?

Simply put, it’s the “magic” in magic mushrooms that catapults you into profound psychological adventures. 

This naturally occurring compound is found in over 200 mushroom species that have been used for centuries in traditional spiritual and ceremonial practices. 

When ingested, psilocybin primarily interacts with serotonin receptors in the brain.

The intensity and nature of your trip can vary greatly depending on the dose, your psychology and the environment. 

As more and more scientists study psilocybin, the buzz is hitting a high. Word on the street (and in the hallowed halls of science) is that this mind-bending compound might just be the magic bullet for battling depression, anxiety and PTSD.

A cup of shroom tea passes from a blonde woman to a man in a candlelit shamanic magic mushroom ceremony


Consuming magic mushrooms can lead to vivid and profound changes in perception, emotions and thought patterns, often described as a journey through the depths of your consciousness.

What happens when you shroom?

When you eat magic mushrooms, it’s like your brain turns up the dial on reality to 11, making everything — from the colors around you to your innermost thoughts — more vivid, intense and sometimes downright bizarre. 

Here’s a bit of what you might expect:

Technicolor World: The world around you might suddenly seem crisper, more detailed and drenched in colors you never knew existed. It’s like you’re seeing the world in 4K resolution. 

Emotional Amplifier: Your emotions could get more intense. A song might move you to tears, or you could find yourself laughing uncontrollably at something that’s not usually funny. It can be a bit of an emotional rollercoaster.

Time Warp: Your perception of time might take a vacation. What feels like hours could be just minutes. Time can seem to slow down, speed up or become completely irrelevant.

Nature Feels: A newfound appreciation for nature is common. Trees might seem to breathe, and patterns in leaves or grass can become fascinating. It’s like Mother Nature is putting on a private show just for you.

The Inner Journey: Shrooms often kickstart a deep dive into your own psyche. You might unearth thoughts and feelings you didn’t know you had, leading to profound insights about yourself and your place in the universe.

Remember, every shroom trip is a unique adventure. Setting, mood and company play huge roles in shaping the experience. That’s why it’s so essential to be in a welcoming and safe environment.

AI-generated glowing magical mushrooms in the forest

Over 32 million people globally have shroomed before, according to a 2020 survey by Gitnux. That number has surely grown exponentially since then.

Why are shrooms so popular?

The surge in interest around magic mushrooms, spearheaded by “shroom mommies” and similar communities, signifies a seismic shift in how society views psychedelics. No longer relics of a bygone era of counterculture, these substances are being reexamined through the lens of wellness and self-care. This movement is not just about tapping into unexplored realms of the mind but also about challenging and dismantling the longstanding stigmas associated with psychedelic use.

Curved yellow and green tiled wall overlooking small houses with a blue and white tiled tower in Parc Güell in Barcelona

Barcelona’s blend of enchanting landscapes and a culturally rich environment make it a great place for magic mushroom retreat.

Barcelona, Europe’s Version of Wonderland

If there were ever a place meant for shrooming, it’s Barcelona. Thanks in no small part to the curious genius of Antoni Gaudí and the city’s embrace of vibrant Moderisme, Barcelona is whimsy incarnate. It’s the perfect backdrop for a shift in perspective.

Is shrooming safe?

Participant well-being is prioritized at these retreats, with a focus on safety by professional teams who specialize in psychedelic therapy. These experts provide continuous support, creating a secure and therapeutic environment. The retreat experience is enriched by incorporating holistic practices like meditation, yoga and nature immersion, further elevating the transformative journey.

People sit in a circle on hardwood floor during a magic mushroom retreat in Barcelona, Spain

Dive into the depths of consciousness at a magic mushroom retreat, where nature’s wisdom meets transformative healing and awakening.

What are the benefits of a magic mushroom retreat?

Attendees say they come out the other side as someone new. The insights gained and emotional breakthroughs experienced often lead to lasting changes, offering new perspectives on challenges and enhancing theirquality of life in general. It’s a journey of healing, self-discovery and personal growth. Think of it as therapy — but the kind where you might see sound and hear colors. 

The trip doesn’t end when you leave Barcelona. Chances are you’ll gain insights and lessons into daily life, taking the first steps on a new path — one that has more joy, peace and a deeper appreciation for life.

Psychedelic mushrooms growing in the grass

Magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona offer a fusion of urban whimsy and spiritual depth, inviting participants to explore their consciousness with the safety of expert guidance.

Shroom to Grow: The transformative power of nature’s most mystical fungi

Magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona are more than just a psychedelic experience; they’re a gateway to personal transformation and healing. Set in one of the most interesting cities in Europe, they provide the opportunity for those to look introspectively and make meaningful changes, guided by ancient wisdom and a supportive community.

There’s a fungus among us — and it’s time to see what it’s all about. –Kate Johnson