The Hidden Gems of Barcelona

Take a tour of the off-the-beaten path attractions in El Raval, the Gothic Quarter, Poble-sec, Gràcia and Montjuïc. 

Barcelona, the cosmopolitan capital of Spain’s Catalonia region, is renowned for its vibrant culture, art and architecture. But beyond the fantastical and incomplete basilica of La Sagrada Familia and historic Modernisme landmarks designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, like Parc Güell, lie an abundance of less-familiar spots waiting to be discovered.

Barcelona’s Hidden Treasures 

While Barcelona’s main attractions are undoubtedly worth visiting, the city’s true identity lies in its non-touristy spots. From ancient Roman ruins to quaint local markets, a hidden gems private tour offers a glimpse into the authentic Barcelona that locals cherish.

Like in many of the best cities, Barcelona’s charm lies in its neighborhoods. Here are some of the best ones — and the lesser-known locales nestled within them.

El Raval: The Bohemian Quarter 

Sandwiched between the streets of Paralelo and Las Ramblas, El Raval is one of the most densely populated and multicultural areas of the city. Once known for its rough edges, the neighborhood has since transformed into a cultural hotspot teeming with art galleries, trendy bars and eclectic boutiques. It’s a place where old meets new, offering a rich tapestry of experiences for those willing to explore.

CCCB (Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona)

One of the sites worth visiting in El Raval is the CCCB, a complex dedicated to exploring contemporary culture through exhibitions, debates and festivals. Housed in a former almshouse, the building is a blend of historic and modern architecture. It’s an excellent starting point for those interested in the city’s vibrant cultural scene.

Calle Montalegre, 5 
Ciutat Vella, 08001

The Gothic Quarter: A Journey Through Time 

While not exactly under the radar, the winding alleys of the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) hold plenty of surprises. Begin your exploration at the landmark La Seu, also known as the Barcelona Cathedral. Wander through the narrow, pedestrian-friendly streets where layers of history, architecture and secluded squares dating back to the 15th century await discovery. 

Keep an eye out for a set of streetlights commissioned by the city council and designed in 1878 by Gaudí, one of only two works he created for the administration shortly after graduating as an architect from la Escola Tècnica Superior d’Arquitectura de Barcelona. 

Plaça dels Traginers

Stop in the early afternoon for a glass of vermouth in this plaza, where locals like to leisurely meet next to the ruins of an ancient Roman fortress. 

Plaça del Reí 

Kings Square is a tranquil square surrounded by Gothic buildings, including the Palau Reial Major, the medieval residence of Catalan counts and kings. The square’s understated elegance makes it a perfect spot to soak in the history and ambiance of old Barcelona. It’s thought that King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella greeted Christopher Columbus from the steps fanning out from the corner of the square after he arrived home from his first voyage to the so-called New World. 

Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum

Located in the former Palau Mornau, this niche museum covers the history of pot and hemp. Its permanent collection features around 8,000 objects related to cannabis cultivation and use throughout history, including medicine bottles, apothecary kits, paintings, pipes and film posters. Exhibits cover the recreational and medicinal uses, industrial applications, legislative history and horticultural aspects of cannabis cultivation.

Carrer Ample, 35
Ciutat Vella, 08002

Poble-sec: A Taste of Local Life 

Abutting Montjuïc hill is Poble-sec, which translates to “Dry Village” in Catalan because it lacked water until the late 19th century. This hood, with its signature sloping streets, combines a modern, lively vibe with Old World charm. It’s a great place to experience the everyday life of Barcelonians.

Carrer de Blai

If you’re looking for Barcelona highlights, head to Carrer de Blai, a street famous for its many budget-friendly pintxos bars. Pronounced “peen-choz,” the name comes from the Spanish verb pinchar, meaning to poke or stab. Sampling these small, skewered bite-sized snacks by hopping from bar to bar is a popular local tradition, usually enjoyed while waiting for dinner, which typically doesn’t begin until around 9 p.m. at the earliest.

Telefèric de Montjuïc Cable Car

For breathtaking views of the city, take the Montjuïc cable car. The journey offers panoramic vistas of Barcelona, the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding hills. At the top, you’ll find Castell de Montjuïc (Montjuïc Castle), a historic fortress with an intriguing past.

Gràcia: The Village Within the City

Gràcia was once a separate village before being annexed by Barcelona in the late 19th century. Despite its integration into the city, Gràcia has retained its distinct, bohemian character. Its bustling plazas and narrow streets are full of life, especially during the Festa Major de Gràcia, a vibrant local festival held every August.

Plaça del Sol

This lively square is the beating heart of Gràcia. Locals gather here to relax, socialize and enjoy a caña (a small glass of beer). Surrounding the square are numerous bars and cafés, making it an ideal spot to experience the neighborhood’s convivial spirit.

Plaça del Sol, 23
Gràcia, 08012

Parks and Recreation 

In a bustling metropolis like Barcelona, finding tranquil green spaces can be a delightful surprise. The city has several parks and gardens that offer a peaceful retreat from the urban hustle, many of which remain relatively undiscovered by tourists.

Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera

Perched on the port-facing slopes of Montjuïc mountain, the Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera offer a spectacular view of the city’s coastline and port. With over 800 desert and subtropical species of succulents and cacti, the garden makes for a striking backdrop and is the perfect spot for reflection and relaxation.

Carretera de Miramar, 38
Sants-Montjuïc 08038

Parc del Laberint d’Horta

Parc del Laberint d’Horta, Barcelona’s oldest historical garden, is a delightful surprise in the city’s Horta-Guinardó district. Situated on the former estate of the Desvalls family, it features an 18th century Neoclassical garden, a 19th century Romantic garden, pavilions with statues from Greek mythology and a cypress hedge maze, which explains the “Laberint” (Labyrinth) in its name.

Passeig dels Castanyers, 1
Horta-Guinardó 08035

Sant Miquel del Fai

If you’re planning to spend several days in Barcelona and are looking to explore something farther afield, Sant Miquel del Fai is about 45 minutes away. Built into the face of the Bertí cliffs, this ancient monastery offers stunning views of the Catalan countryside. Visitors can explore the main church, the chapel of Sant Martí and various other structures within the complex, including the Cova de Sant Miquel caves, which feature impressive stalactites and stalagmites.

BV-1485
Kilómetro 7
08416 Riells del fai
Barcelona

Gaudí’s Great, But…

Whether you’re wandering through the bohemian streets of El Raval or savoring the culinary delights of a hidden tapas bar, these lesser-known Barcelona highlights reveal a side of the city often overshadowed by its more famous landmarks. Your Spanish adventure awaits! –Natalie Howard

Magic Mushroom Retreats: The Psychedelic Side of Barcelona

Embark on a psilocybin-fueled spirit quest in Spain’s strangest city. But what should you expect? How do shrooms work?

Embark on a journey of self-discovery and healing at a magic mushroom retreat, (perhaps in Spain?), where guided experiences unlock the mind’s potential and foster profound personal growth.

Barcelona isn’t just your typical tourist hotspot with pretty sights and tasty tapas; it’s also an underground capital for those looking to flip their mental scripts with magic mushroom retreats. The city offers a variety of unique experiences, with one of the most transformative being retreats that harness the therapeutic benefits of psilocybin, the active compound in magic mushrooms. These retreats aim to provide a secure and supportive setting for participants to undergo profound personal development journeys.

“Word on the street (and in the hallowed halls of science) is that this mind-bending compound might just be the magic bullet for battling depression, anxiety and PTSD.”

Gaudí’s la Sagrada Família masterwork dominates the Barcelona skyline.

The Trip of a Lifetime

Enter the emerging world of magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona. Think of them as the love child of ancient shamanic rituals and cutting-edge neuroscience. It’s where you can unlock new dimensions of your consciousness with psilocybin. Guided by pros in the comfiest of settings, participants embark on a trip to explore the wilds of their consciousness that’s set up to be as safe as possible.

Psilocybin, a natural compound with psychoactive properties, is found in certain species of mushrooms.

What is psilocybin?

Simply put, it’s the “magic” in magic mushrooms that catapults you into profound psychological adventures. 

This naturally occurring compound is found in over 200 mushroom species that have been used for centuries in traditional spiritual and ceremonial practices. 

When ingested, psilocybin primarily interacts with serotonin receptors in the brain.

The intensity and nature of your trip can vary greatly depending on the dose, your psychology and the environment. 

As more and more scientists study psilocybin, the buzz is hitting a high. Word on the street (and in the hallowed halls of science) is that this mind-bending compound might just be the magic bullet for battling depression, anxiety and PTSD.

Consuming magic mushrooms can lead to vivid and profound changes in perception, emotions and thought patterns, often described as a journey through the depths of your consciousness.

What happens when you shroom?

When you eat magic mushrooms, it’s like your brain turns up the dial on reality to 11, making everything — from the colors around you to your innermost thoughts — more vivid, intense and sometimes downright bizarre. 

Here’s a bit of what you might expect:

Technicolor World: The world around you might suddenly seem crisper, more detailed and drenched in colors you never knew existed. It’s like you’re seeing the world in 4K resolution. 

Emotional Amplifier: Your emotions could get more intense. A song might move you to tears, or you could find yourself laughing uncontrollably at something that’s not usually funny. It can be a bit of an emotional rollercoaster.

Time Warp: Your perception of time might take a vacation. What feels like hours could be just minutes. Time can seem to slow down, speed up or become completely irrelevant.

Nature Feels: A newfound appreciation for nature is common. Trees might seem to breathe, and patterns in leaves or grass can become fascinating. It’s like Mother Nature is putting on a private show just for you.

The Inner Journey: Shrooms often kickstart a deep dive into your own psyche. You might unearth thoughts and feelings you didn’t know you had, leading to profound insights about yourself and your place in the universe.

Remember, every shroom trip is a unique adventure. Setting, mood and company play huge roles in shaping the experience. That’s why it’s so essential to be in a welcoming and safe environment.

Over 32 million people globally have shroomed before, according to a 2020 survey by Gitnux. That number has surely grown exponentially since then.

Why are shrooms so popular?

The surge in interest around magic mushrooms, spearheaded by “shroom mommies” and similar communities, signifies a seismic shift in how society views psychedelics. No longer relics of a bygone era of counterculture, these substances are being reexamined through the lens of wellness and self-care. This movement is not just about tapping into unexplored realms of the mind but also about challenging and dismantling the longstanding stigmas associated with psychedelic use.

Barcelona’s blend of enchanting landscapes and a culturally rich environment make it a great place for magic mushroom retreat.

Barcelona, Europe’s Version of Wonderland

If there were ever a place meant for shrooming, it’s Barcelona. Thanks in no small part to the curious genius of Antoni Gaudí and the city’s embrace of vibrant Moderisme, Barcelona is whimsy incarnate. It’s the perfect backdrop for a shift in perspective.

Is shrooming safe?

Participant well-being is prioritized at these retreats, with a focus on safety by professional teams who specialize in psychedelic therapy. These experts provide continuous support, creating a secure and therapeutic environment. The retreat experience is enriched by incorporating holistic practices like meditation, yoga and nature immersion, further elevating the transformative journey.

Dive into the depths of consciousness at a magic mushroom retreat, where nature’s wisdom meets transformative healing and awakening.

What are the benefits of a magic mushroom retreat?

Attendees say they come out the other side as someone new. The insights gained and emotional breakthroughs experienced often lead to lasting changes, offering new perspectives on challenges and enhancing theirquality of life in general. It’s a journey of healing, self-discovery and personal growth. Think of it as therapy — but the kind where you might see sound and hear colors. 

The trip doesn’t end when you leave Barcelona. Chances are you’ll gain insights and lessons into daily life, taking the first steps on a new path — one that has more joy, peace and a deeper appreciation for life.

Magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona offer a fusion of urban whimsy and spiritual depth, inviting participants to explore their consciousness with the safety of expert guidance.

Shroom to Grow: The transformative power of nature’s most mystical fungi

Magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona are more than just a psychedelic experience; they’re a gateway to personal transformation and healing. Set in one of the most interesting cities in Europe, they provide the opportunity for those to look introspectively and make meaningful changes, guided by ancient wisdom and a supportive community.

There’s a fungus among us — and it’s time to see what it’s all about. –Kate Johnson

The Seussian Whimsy of Gaudi’s Park Güell

If this colorful city park overlooking Barcelona is what failure looks like, sign us up!

The colorful curves of Park Güell are like something out of a Dr. Seuss book

When industrialist Count Eusebi Güell needed help transforming Montaña Pelada, Bald Mountain, into a one-of-a-kind residential enclave, he called upon his friend Antoni Gaudí. The two shared similar ideological beliefs: Gaudí was a spiritual man whose distinctive style was influenced by his great appreciation of nature as God’s creation. His structural forms mimicked the natural world and imbued life into his architectural masterpieces.

That collaboration led to Park Güell, which was not originally designed to be a municipal park. It was conceived as a luxury residential development with 60 plots just to the north of Barcelona’s city limits by Güell, who made his fortune from the textile industry.

Güell, whom the park is named after, was inspired by the garden city movement popularized in 20th century England, which is why the English word Park was used, rather than the Catalan equivalent, Parc.

He commissioned Gaudí, the Catalan architect responsible for some of the Barcelona’s most iconic landmarks, to create the parklike neighborhood. Gaudí made the most of the site’s uneven terrain, using organic shapes paired with symbolic references to Christianity and Catalan nationalism shared by his patron, Güell. Immediately noticeable when you enter the park is the administrator’s building, with its towering blue and white chimney topped with a gothic cross flower.

The administrative building and caretaker’s lodge are two gingerbread-like houses on the park grounds

Making an Entrance

Wally and I arrived at the park early in the morning and were easily able to purchase tickets, which are limited to 400 people every half hour, to avoid overcrowding. A full price ticket costs 8 euros (or 7.50€ if you purchase them in advance here).

The park is limited to 400 people every half hour

Just inside the entrance are a pair of whimsical lodges that look like lifesize gingerbread houses from the fairy tale “Hansel and Gretel.” These structures, known as the caretaker’s lodge and administration building were designed to attract potential investors. The caretaker’s lodge includes an imaginatively embellished cupola, decorated with upside-down white ceramic coffee cups and supposedly was Gaudí’s way of telling the world he had giving up drinking coffee.

We paused to take a photo with a man dressed as the park’s mascot and symbol of Barcelona, the multi-colored mosaic gecko, known as El Drac, the Dragon (for a small fee, of course).

Wally and Duke pose with El Drac, the park’s reptilian mascot

Immediately before us was the magnificent grand staircase. A riot of color, its balustrade and steps are covered with shards of ceramic tiles using a technique known as trencadísis, popular with the Modernisme movement. These fragments were discarded at a nearby factory and selected with great care. The predominant blue, yellow and green tiles symbolize faith, hope and charity, and each fragment is no more than 8 to 10 inches in size.

A mosaic sculpture of El Drac, Gaudí’s gecko — now a symbol of Barcelona

Perched at the base of the steps is a depiction of the beloved El Drac, created with frequent Gaudí collaborator Josep Maria Jujol. It’s plausible that Gaudí’s obsessive use of this mythological creature in his designs was influenced by his devout Catholic faith — in particular, the legend of St. George and the Dragon, symbolizing the struggle between good and evil. The likeness of the iconic El Drac is a popular souvenir choice from Barcelona, and you can purchase a variety of items inspired by Gaudí’s gecko throughout the city.

The square above the columned grotto gets crowded with all sorts of interesting people

The Hall of 100 Columns

After climbing the first flight of steps, Wally and I entered the Sala Hipóstila, Hall of 100 Columns, referred to by Gaudí as the Greek Theater. The pavilion is a forest of 86 columns in the Greek Doric style, mimicking trees, made of mortar and rubble simulating marble. Each of the columns leans slightly and supports the upper plaza terrace above. Rainwater is filtered through the layer of stone and sand from the terrace square and runs through drainage pipes ingeniously concealed within the columns to be collected in a cistern below.

Amorous couples, tourists, kids playing ball and street performers all gather in Park Güell’s piazza

The entire ceiling consists of domes covered with white trencadís as well as brightly colored mosaic circles representing the four seasons and the lunar cycles.
Although this room was originally designed to hold the community’s market, today it is often used as a concert hall, due its impressive acoustics.

An African man in traditional garb and his new friend test out the aucustics of the Hall of 100 Columns

The public square, an open earthen terrace, located above the hall is framed by the Banc de Trencadís, a mosaic-tiled bench curving sinuously around its perimeter.

The undulating Banc de Trencadís is a great place to look out over the city

Wally and I stopped at the kiosk and purchased a couple beers. We found a shady spot to sit and take in the spectacular view of Barcelona before us, with the amazing La Sagrada Familia church, still under construction, in the background.

Wally couldn’t believe they sold beer at the park

Duke says, “Salud to España and Gaudí’s fun aesthetic!’

Incidentally, it’s also a great place to people-watch, and we dubbed one of the visitors Catalan Mema, as she was petite and quirky and had a shock of short white blonde hair like my mother. She was also having her hand kissed by an invisible man. Only at Park Güell!

The park is full of colorful characters, including a woman who resembles Duke’s madre — and her invisible man suitor

The back of the terrace is formed by a row of stone viaducts, remnants of the project’s original design, intended to provide residents access to their individual plots of land.

By 1914, the project was deemed a commercial failure: Not enough people wanted high-class housing so far from the city center.

Barcelona — including la Sagrada Familia Church — stretches out below the park

All that remained were the buildings described, as well as an irrigation system and meandering paths created by Gaudí in his inimitable manner. Guëll convinced Gaudí to purchase the park’s model home, designed by Gaudí’s assistant and friend Francesc Berenguer.

Despite its failings as a housing complex, the city purchased the estate in 1922 for use as a public park. But it wasn't until Gaudí’s death in 1926, that Park Guëll officially opened. If you’re visiting Barcelona and looking for an enchanting place to spend an afternoon in this remarkable city, look no further than this surreal architectural landmark. –Duke

Dan Brown’s “Origin” Tour of Spain

Follow Robert Langdon’s itinerary, from Bilbao to Barcelona, with stopovers in Madrid and Seville.

The whimsical Park Guëll in Barcelona is just one stop on an Origin-inspired itinerary of Spanish sights

You can always count on Dan Brown to serve up a whirlwind tour of a European country in his edge-of-your-seat thrillers. He’s got a formula: Robert Langdon, symbologist stud, and some attractive female companion follow a frenzied trail of clues, narrowly escaping death at every stop. What I like best about a Brown novel is that you’ll learn about religious history, conspiracy theories, art, architecture and technology along the way.

While The Da Vinci Code had Langdon darting from one Parisian landmark to another, Brown’s latest work, Origin, offers a tour of Spain, from Bilbao to Barcelona.

“It wouldn’t be a Dan Brown novel without learning about a surprising but real-life controversial religious order.”

Here are the main sites Langdon visits in his frenzied night trying to discover nothing less than the origin of our species — and what’s next in our evolution.

Bilbao

Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

The story kicks off at this famous museum, designed by Frank Gehry in his signature style, consisting of massive, curving metallic strips. The Guggenheim Bilbao opened in 1997 and has helped draw tourists to what was a fading industrial port city.

Brown mentions a few of the museum’s more interesting artworks, including:

La Salve Bridge, constructed in the early 1970s, now leads right to the Guggenheim. For the museum’s 10th anniversary, the bridge got an additional adornment, l’Arc Rouge (the Red Arch) by French artist Daniel Buren.

Maman, a creepy metal spider sculpture by Louise Bourgeois that’s about 30 feet tall. The name means Mom, and the piece, built in 1999, is a (questionable) tribute to Bourgeois’ mother, who was a weaver.

The Matter of Time, a massive spiraling, interactive sculpture that takes up an entire corridor at the Guggenheim. The immersive artwork by Richard Serra was created between 1994-2005.

Yves Klein Exhibition, a tribute to yet another French artist. The enormous rectangle painted on the floor resembles an intense cobalt blue swimming pool. The artist patented the color, International Klein Blue, stating that it represents the cosmic energy that floats in the air.

Etxanobe

While you’re in Bilbao, enjoy a dinner at this Michelin-starred restaurant. The glass dining room has tufted light fixtures and a fabric-covered ceiling, hidden away in the Palacio Euskalduna. The food at Etxanobe is the star of the show, prepared by Fernando Canales, a local hotshot chef. It looks as if it’s one of those modern restaurants where you get served large plates that hold small, gloopy food prepared with the most recent gastronomic techniques and decorated with artistic splashes. Most people seem to recommend the chef’s tasting menu.

Madrid

Royal Palace

Much of the intrigue in Origin takes place in the Palacio Real de Madrid. Once the site of a fortress built to protect the Muslim rulers from invading Christians, the palace that stands today was begun in 1738 and took 17 years to complete. That’s no surprise, given that there are more than 3,000 rooms inside, including the Royal Armoury and the Painting Gallery, in which Salome With the Head of John the Baptist by Caravaggio hangs.

Almudena Cathedral

Adjacent to the Royal Palace, this religious institution is dedicated to the Virgin of Almudena, a medieval icon that serves as the patroness of Madrid. Like many European cathedrals, construction of the Santa Iglesia Catedral de Santa María la Real de la Almudena (phew!) came in fits and starts. While it began in 1879, it wasn’t fully completed until 1993!

Reina Sofía Museum of Modern Art

The building that houses the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, which opened in 1986, first served as the San Carlos Hospital.

Here are some of the famous works Brown calls out:

Guernica by Picasso is, undoubtedly, the star of the museum. A 1937 Cubist masterpiece in shades of gray, the mural was a reaction to the Nazis’ bombing practice on the Basque town of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War.

La Verbena, or The Fair, by Maruja Mallo, painted in 1927, is a riot of color and activity. There’s almost a movement to the painting, with sailors, a test-your-strength game, a cyclops in a headdress, a deformed beggar and what might be a magician about to cut a woman in half, all tucked into various nooks.

El Escorial

Built from 1563-1584, the Royal Site of San Lorenzo de El Escorial is said to be the most important architectural monument of the Spanish Renaissance. King Philip II wanted the building to be a place to bury his father, Charles V, as well as a monastery and palace. The complex is 28 miles northwest of Madrid. Be sure to visit the Pantheon of the Kings, where 28 kings and queens of Spain are entombed.

Valley of the Fallen

Near El Escorial is el Valle de los Caídosa, a controversial memorial commissioned by General Francisco Franco, the dictator of an authoritarian regime that lasted for 36 years. A massive cross sits atop a basilica and crypt that have been carved into the mountainside. The site honors those who died in the Spanish Civil War and contains the tomb of Franco himself.
 

Seville

Palmarian Catholic Church

It wouldn’t be a Brown novel without learning about a surprising but real-life controversial religious order. The Christian Palmarian Church of the Carmelites of the Holy Face (Iglesia Católica Palmariana) in El Palmar de Troya, 28 miles south of Seville, is so crazy, you’d think Brown made it up. But this far-right cult actually has declared its own pope dedicated to undermining the reforms of Pope Francis and worshippers pray to a host of new saints, including, shudder, Adolf Hitler.

Barcelona

Park Güell

Barcelona is one of my favorite cities — in a large part because of Antoni Gaudí’s whimsical genius. His colorful aesthetic is on display in Park Güell, a large public space at the north end of the city. Mosaics decorate this park, including the winding benches on a large terrace overlook, where it’s as fun to admire the view of Barcelona spreading out before you as it is to people-watch.

La Sagrada Família

I can say with confidence that you’ve never seen a church like this before. The façade evokes a towering sandcastle, while the interior features sprawling treelike columns dappled in rainbow hues as sunlight hits the stained glass windows. La Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família is so otherworldly, I felt as if I were inside a spaceship. Oh, and it’s still being built.

Casa Milà

It’s hard to miss Casa Milà, known as La Pedrera, or the Stone Quarry: Its undulating pale façade is what gave the building its nickname. The apartment complex, designed by Guadí, was built between 1906-1912 and now houses a museum highlighting the architect’s work on its top floor. Be sure to visit the rooftop, dotted with giant chimneys shaped like the helmets of soldiers.

Barcelona Supercomputing Center

Leave it to Brown to weave quirky sites like this into his stories. The Centro Nacional de Supercomputación is indeed a research facility housed in the former Chapel Torre Girona. Its star supercomputer, MareNostrum, consists of neat rows of metallic towers encased in a glass box that fills the interior of the sanctuary.

As you work your way through this itinerary, following in Langdon’s footsteps, here’s hoping there’s not a murderous former naval admiral on your heels. –Wally