Beyond Paris: Travel to Lesser-Known France

The most underrated places in France: Nantes, Amiens and Rennes — where mechanical elephants, floating gardens and medieval wonders await your next adventure.

Porte Saint-Pierre in Nantes

Sure, Paris is the City of Love, the place where couples smooch along the Seine. But if you think France is just pain au chocolat, promenades and Paris, you’re just scratching the surface. Once you’ve marveled at the must-sees and taken more Eiffel selfies than your Instagram can handle, it’s time to move beyond Paris into the France that doesn’t always make it into the guidebooks.

We’re not saying you should skip Paris — there are just some hidden gems you should also check out.

First Up: Gay Paree

Of course, any trip to France is worth a stop-off in Paris. The first rule? Don’t be in a rush. Paris is a city meant to be savored — one street, one café, one perfect pastry at a time. 

Begin your journey on foot, meandering through boulevards filled with the smell of fresh bread, the buzz of busy terraces and architecture that just might be older than your country. 

Once you’re ready to kick things up a notch, switch over to the Métro or tram — the real Parisian way to get around. Sure, you could opt for taxis or ride-shares, but you’d be missing the electric hum of everyday life on the city’s veins.

Of course, you’ll want to plan ahead. If you want to visit the Louvre, don’t even think about showing up without pre-booked tickets. Skip the epic queues and head straight into the thick of it. 

Or, if you’re craving a bit more underworld mystique, take the plunge into the Catacombs of Paris — a dark, fascinating corner of the city. 

And for the romantics, the Eiffel Tower may be free to admire from below, but if you want to climb up, save yourself time (and foot cramps) by booking your tickets in advance.

Jardin des Tuileries

Picnics, Cruises and Prepping for the Great Escape

Before you say your final “au revoir” to Paris, it’s time to embrace the most Parisian of pastimes: picnicking in a garden. Pack up a basket with a crusty baguette, some fancy cheese, and a bottle of rosé — this is France, after all. Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Jardin des Tuileries and Luxembourg Gardens are the perfect spots to recharge. 

But Paris is just the beginning. Once you’ve ticked off the iconic sights, why not step into the real adventure — those lesser-known spots where the crowds thin and the charm thickens. Take a road trip or hop on a train, and dive into the countryside, where France has some seriously under-the-radar gems waiting for you.

Here’s your guide to three fascinating cities that will make your trip to France unforgettable.

Nantes: The City of Innovation and Imagination

If there’s a city where imagination runs wild, it’s Nantes. Perched along the Loire River, this historic gem was once the bustling capital of Brittany and a powerhouse of trade and commerce. Fast forward to today, and Nantes has reinvented itself as a vibrant playground for artists, engineers and visionaries — where creativity isn’t just encouraged, it’s celebrated at every turn.

Must-See Attractions in Nantes

Les Machines de l’Île: A fantastical world inspired by Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci, this is one of Nantes’ most famous attractions. Here, you’ll find mechanical animals, including the iconic 40-foot-tall elephant that you can ride as it lumbers through the streets.

Château des Ducs de Bretagne: This 13th century castle is a key part of Nantes’ history. Once the seat of the dukes of Brittany, it now houses a museum that tells the story of the city’s past, including its shameful role in the transatlantic slave trade.

Les Anneaux (The Rings) on l’Île de Nantes

Île de Nantes: The island at the heart of the city is a blend of modern art installations, restaurants and waterfront paths. You’ll find sculptures that pop up in unexpected places, and the island is a symbol of Nantes’ artistic resurgence.

Amiens: France’s Hidden Medieval Treasure

Perhaps Amiens hasn’t made your radar yet — but trust me, it’s one of France’s best-kept secrets, far from the touristy throngs most people associate with a trip to France. Nestled in the Haut-de-France region in the north, Amiens is divided by the River Somme and boasts a blend of charm, history and, yes, some seriously Instagrammable spots. If you’re hunting for a place to grab some mouthwatering French cuisine or buy a perfectly aged bottle of wine, the shops and cafés along Quartier St.-Leu’s narrow, cobbled streets are practically begging you to stop by.

Now, here’s the kicker: Amiens is ridiculously budget-friendly. Sure, France has a rep for being on the pricey side, especially if you’re staying where all the iconic sites are. But in Amiens? You can snag top-tier hotels without emptying your wallet. So while you might be pinching pennies in hostels across Paris or Marseilles, Amiens is where you treat yourself to a touch of luxury. Balance, my friends. Amiens is the city that gets it.

Must-See Attractions in Amiens

Amiens Cathedral: This Gothic masterpiece is one of the largest churches in the world and boasts intricate carvings and towering spires. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s known for its exceptional beauty. The cathedral’s façade was originally painted in vibrant colors. Over time, the paint wore away, leaving the stone we see today. During the summer, a light show recreates these original rainbow hues.

Les Hortillonnages: These floating gardens are situated on a network of canals and have been cultivated since the Middle Ages. You can explore them by boat, winding through the greenery and flower-filled gardens that seem worlds away from the city streets.

Maison de Jules Verne: While Verne was born in Nantes, he spent much of his life in Amiens, where he wrote some of his famous novels. His former home is now a museum that gives visitors a glimpse into his world and imagination.

Rennes: Medieval Meets Modern

In the final stop on our tour of underrated French gems, the road less traveled takes us to Rennes, the capital of Brittany, where history and modernity collide in the best way possible. What sets Rennes apart? Picture medieval half-timbered houses lining the streets, right alongside the imposing grandeur of the cathedral. It’s like stepping into a time machine — but with better coffee.

Must-See Attractions in Rennes

Parlement de Bretagne: Once the seat of the Brittany parliament, this grand building is a must-see for history buffs. It survived a major fire in the 1990s and was carefully restored. Guided tours give visitors a glimpse into the past and the intricate artwork inside.

Thabor Gardens: One of France’s most beautiful public parks, the Thabor Gardens span 25 acres (10 hectares) and include a French garden, English garden, rose garden and aviary. It’s the perfect spot for a quiet escape after a day of sightseeing.

Musée des Beaux-Arts: Art lovers will feel right at home in this museum, which boasts works from European masters like Rubens, Botticelli and Picasso. The museum’s collection covers everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts to modern art.

The Rennes Opera House

France off the Beaten Path

France is so much more than Paris. By stepping off the beaten path and exploring places like Nantes, Amiens and Rennes, you’ll not only escape the tourist crowds but will also discover the true heart of the country. It’s in the untapped corners, the quiet lanes and the lesser-known wonders. As they say: Life is about the adventures you take and the memories you make. –Sadie Smith

Best Things to Do in Dubai With Kids

Here are Dubai’s top family activities. Explore the Dubai Miracle Garden and IMG Worlds of Adventure for an unforgettable day. And, surprise: One’s actually indoors!

The Spider-Man Doc Ock’s Revenge ride at IMG Worlds of Adventure

Dubai, known for its towering skyscrapers and luxury shopping, is also a paradise for families. A variety of over-the-top activities in Dubai cater to children and provide unforgettable experiences. 

Whether it’s exploring lush gardens or embarking on thrilling adventures, Dubai has something for every family. From the magnificent flower arrangements at the Dubai Miracle Garden to the adrenaline-pumping rides and superheroes at IMG Worlds of Adventure, the city ensures endless fun and excitement for kids and adults alike. 

Note: In most parts of the world, you’d expect an amusement park to be an outdoor attraction. But this is Dubai, where the average temperature soars to around 97°F (36°C). That’s why IMG Worlds of Adventure is indoors (and yes, air-conditioned!), ensuring a comfortable way to beat the heat.

The garden, by necessity, is outdoors, which is why I recommend starting your day there.

Morning: Explore the Dubai Miracle Garden

Dubai Miracle Garden is a floral wonderland in the heart of the desert. Opened on Valentine’s Day in 2013, the Dubai Miracle Garden is a marvel of modern horticulture, renowned for its record-breaking achievements and sustainable practices. As the world’s largest flower garden, it spans over 775,000 square feet (72,000 square meters) and showcases more than 150 million flowers arranged in vibrant and imaginative displays. 

In 2023, the garden further solidified its place in the record books with the largest vertical garden, reflecting its innovative use of space and greenery. 

Beyond its breathtaking displays, Dubai Miracle Garden is a leader in sustainable gardening. The garden employs a state-of-the-art drip irrigation system that recycles wastewater, ensuring efficient water use essential for maintaining its lush landscapes in Dubai’s arid climate. 

Organic fertilizers are used to nourish the plants, reducing the reliance on chemical-based alternatives and promoting eco-friendly gardening practices. 

Additionally, solar panels power various installations within the garden, minimizing the carbon footprint and harnessing renewable energy sources.

The garden also engages the community through educational programs and workshops, raising awareness about sustainability and environmental conservation. 

Why it’s a great spot for families: Dubai Miracle Garden offers a magical experience for families. The vibrant colors and creative designs captivate children’s imaginations, while parents can appreciate the artistry and effort behind each display. With themed areas, interactive spots and plenty of photo opportunities, it’s a destination that delights all ages.

Must-See Attractions at Dubai Miracle Garden

Heart Passage

Heart Passage at Dubai Miracle Garden is a romantic and enchanting floral tunnel formed by a series of heart arches. Adorned with vibrant flowers, this passage creates a picturesque walkway perfect for family photos. Walking through Heart Passage feels like stepping into a fairy tale, making it a favorite spot for visitors of all ages.

Airbus A380 Floral Display

One of the garden’s most iconic features is the life-size replica of an Emirates Airbus A380, which holds the Guinness World Record for the largest floral installation. This colossal structure is adorned with 500,000 fresh flowers and plants, covering 10% of the garden’s total area. 

The intricate design and sheer size of the display leave visitors in awe. Children are fascinated by seeing an airplane made of flowers, and it provides a unique and memorable photo opportunity for families. 

Disney Avenue

Disney Avenue at Dubai Miracle Garden brings beloved Mouse House characters to life through vibrant floral sculptures, including Mickey, Minnie, Donald and Daisy Duck, Goofy, Pluto, and Huey, Dewey and Louie. The colorful displays and familiar characters create a whimsical atmosphere that kids will adore. 

One of these has been dubbed the tallest topiary sculpture in the world: the 59-foot (18-meter) tall depiction of Mickey Mouse, which earned a Guinness World Record in 2018. 

Families can take delightful photos with the floral versions of their favorite Disney characters, making it a magical experience that adds to the garden’s charm and appeal.

Floral Castles

The Floral Castles are majestic structures adorned with a stunning array of flowers, creating a fairy tale ambiance. These towering structures, covered in blooms of various colors, are a favorite among visitors. Children can let their imaginations run wild as they explore the enchanting flower fortresses. The Floral Castles provide a picturesque setting for family photos and offer a sense of wonder and delight.

Butterfly Garden

Adjacent to Dubai Miracle Garden, the Butterfly Garden is home to over 15,000 butterflies from around the world. This enclosed garden offers an interactive and educational experience, where children can learn about different butterfly species and observe them in their natural habitat. The Butterfly Garden’s lush environment and vibrant butterflies create a captivating and serene atmosphere. It’s a nice complement to the floral displays of Dubai Miracle Garden, providing families with a closer connection to nature and a memorable visit.

Practical Information

Tickets: Tickets for Dubai Miracle Garden can be purchased both online and at the gate. For the best experience and to avoid long queues, it’s recommended to buy Dubai Miracle Garden tickets in advance online. Prices vary, with discounts often available for children, seniors and families. Additionally, combo tickets that include entry to the Butterfly Garden are available for a complete experience.

Opening hours and best months to visit: Dubai Miracle Garden is open from November to April, aligning with Dubai’s cooler months. The garden typically opens from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. on weekdays, and until 11 p.m. on weekends. Early mornings and weekdays are the best times to visit to avoid crowds and enjoy the displays at a leisurely pace.

Afternoon: Thrills at IMG Worlds of Adventure

After a delightful morning at Dubai Miracle Garden, head to IMG Worlds of Adventure for an afternoon of excitement. This indoor theme park is one of the largest in the world, covering an area of 1.5 million square feet (about 140,000 square meters).

Why it’s a great spot for families: IMG Worlds of Adventure offers a combination of beloved characters, heart-pounding rides and immersive experiences for all age groups. From Marvel superheroes to Cartoon Network characters, the park brings fantasy worlds to life. With its climate-controlled environment, it’s an ideal place to escape the heat and enjoy hours of fun.

Must-See Attractions at IMG Worlds

Marvel Zone: Superhero-Themed Rides and Shows

The Marvel Zone at IMG Worlds of Adventure is a playground for fanboys and girls. This section of the park features thrilling rides and attractions based on popular Marvel characters such as Spider-Man, Iron Man, Thor and the Hulk. Highlights include the Hulk Epsilon Base 3D, a multisensory ride that takes guests on an epic adventure with the green superhero, and Avengers: Battle of Ultron, an immersive experience where fans join Earth’s Mightiest Heroes in a high-stakes showdown.

Additionally, the zone offers more interactive experiences and live shows, allowing families to meet their favorite heroes and enjoy action-packed entertainment. 

Cartoon Network Zone: Kid-Friendly Attractions and Interactive Experiences

The Cartoon Network Zone brings beloved cartoon characters to life, providing a playful and engaging environment for children. Attractions include rides themed around shows like The Powerpuff Girls, Ben 10 and Adventure Time. The Ben 10 5D Hero Time ride offers an immersive experience with special effects and a thrilling storyline. 

Kids can also enjoy interactive play areas, meet-and-greets with their favorite characters and live shows. This zone’s focus on fun and creativity ensures a delightful visit for young visitors, making it a fave spot within IMG Worlds of Adventure.

Lost Valley – Dinosaur Adventure: Thrilling Rides and Prehistoric Encounters

Lost Valley – Dinosaur Adventure transports visitors back in time to encounter life-sized animatronic dinosaurs and exhilarating rides like the Velociraptor roller coaster. The Forbidden Territory ride allows families to explore a dinosaur-filled jungle in specially designed vehicles. 

Interactive experiences and educational exhibits provide insights into the world of dinosaurs, making it both fun and informative. The combination of thrills and learning opportunities makes Lost Valley a captivating zone for families visiting IMG Worlds of Adventure.

IMG Boulevard: Shops, Restaurants and Live Entertainment

IMG Boulevard serves as the central hub of IMG Worlds of Adventure, offering a variety of shops, restaurants and entertainment options. Visitors can have meals at themed eateries, shop for souvenirs and branded merch, and watch live performances. 

The Haunted Hotel isn’t a hotel you can actually stay in — thankfully, for the faint of heart — but rather an immersive walk-through attraction designed to give you chills. As you venture through the dimly lit corridors, you’ll encounter eerie rooms and unexpected scares around every corner. The setting mimics the atmosphere of an abandoned, decrepit hotel, complete with creepy characters and spine-tingling surprises. Each room has its own horror theme, keeping the suspense alive as you never know what might be lurking in the shadows. 

IMG Boulevard’s diverse offerings make it a perfect place to relax and recharge between adventures, enhancing the overall experience of visiting the theme park.

Practical Information

Tickets: Tickets for IMG Worlds of Adventure can be bought online or at the entrance. To make the most of your visit and avoid waiting in line, it’s advisable to purchase IMG World tickets in advance online. Ticket prices vary, with options for single-day entry, fast track access and annual passes. Discounts are often available for children, seniors and groups.

Opening hours and best times to visit: IMG Worlds of Adventure is open year-round, with daily operating hours typically from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. The park is busiest on weekends and holidays, so visiting on weekdays or during off-peak hours can provide a more relaxed experience. Arriving early can help you enjoy the most popular attractions without long waits.

The Perfect Day: Dubai’s Top Family Attractions

Dubai is a city that offers an endless array of activities for families, ensuring a memorable vacation for all. From the enchanting blooms of Dubai Miracle Garden to the thrilling escapades at IMG Worlds of Adventure, there’s something to delight every member of the family. By exploring these two top attractions, you’ll experience the versatility and magic that make Dubai a premier family-friendly destination. Whether you’re wandering through flower-covered pathways or meeting your favorite superheroes, Dubai promises an unforgettable journey filled with joy and wonder. –Karan Arora

Plaza de España: Where History Meets Artistry

Discover the stunning tile alcoves in this iconic landmark from the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition (and a Star Wars movie).

There’s talk that city officials might actually start charging admission because of overtourism in the Plaza de España.

It was love at first sight. Wally and I were instantly captivated by the cuisine, history and diverse architecture of Andalucía, the southernmost region of Spain. On our first trip there, we spent a couple of idyllic days with our friend Dan in Sevilla. We both agreed that when we returned, we’d plan to spend more time in the capital city of Andalusia.

Even the railings of the bridges are gorgeous in the Plaza de España.

Earlier this year, we got our chance and stayed at an incredible Airbnb in Seville close to the Casco Viejo, or Old Quarter, with a rooftop view of the Catedral de Sevilla. One of the places we wanted to revisit was the Plaza de España, which was within walking distance from our accommodation. The city is quite walkable, flat and easy to navigate. Of course, this will depend on your level of mobility and whether you’re willing to walk (we always are).

Unlike other expositions, where most structures were temporary and torn down after the event, the elaborate Andalusia Pavilion was built to be permanent and was constructed using traditional materials such as brick, ceramic, iron and wood.

A Brief History of the Plaza de España

The Plaza de España includes the Pabellón de Andalucía (Pavilion of Andalusia), which was built to showcase Spain’s industrial and technological achievements at the 1929 Exposición Ibero-Americana (Ibero-American Exposition). 

This popular destination is nestled among the trees and flowers of Parque María de Luisa, which was formerly the private gardens of the Palacio de San Telmo. The land, donated to the city in 1893 by Infanta María Luisa Fernanda de Bourbon, Duchess of Montpensier, now serves as the city’s primary green space.

One of 48 portrait medallions from ceramicist Pedro Navía’s Triana studio depicting illustrious figures from Spain’s history, including this one of King Alfonso X “el Sabio” aka the Wise, who ruled from 1252-1284. 

The idea of hosting a fair in Sevilla was first proposed by civil engineer Luis Rodríguez Caso in 1908 as part of an extensive urban development project designed to boost economic growth and improve trade relations with Spain’s former Latin American colonies. 

Construction began in 1914 under the supervision of prominent architect Aníbal González. Unfortunately, World War I interrupted these plans, and delays were further exacerbated in 1918 by a particularly virulent strain of the H1N1 virus, estimated to have claimed 260,000 lives in Spain before waning a year later.

The plaza currently houses numerous administrative offices. Our friend Jo, an expat from the U.K. living in Spain, admitted to us that while the space is gorgeous, it also reminds her of the hours she spent in a bureaucratic nightmare of immigration red tape.

Stunning architecture and rich history come together at the iconic Plaza de España in Sevilla.

Visiting the Plaza de España

The Plaza and Fountain

The monumental structure, covering 538,196 square feet (50,000 square meters), was designed by González in the Regionalist style, which combines elements of Baroque, Mudéjar and Renaissance Revival. The grand fountain, added by architect Vicente Traver y Tomás, rises from the center of the plaza courtyard and was inspired by the Montjuïc fountain in Barcelona. (It was off during our visit due to a severe drought that had lasted for most of the year.) 

The porte-cochère acts as the grand entrance of the Plaza de España, now home to administrative offices.

Flamenco dancers often perform beneath the columned central portico of the Pabellón de Andalucía at the Plaza de España.

Head to the upper gallery for a shaded walk and a great way to see the beauty of the plaza unfold below.

The original plans for the plaza didn’t include a fountain, but town officials insisted on adding one, much to González’s dismay. And according to local lore, that’s why the statue of González, standing at the axis of the pavilion’s crescent, faces away from the fountain.

Local lore has it that the likeness of architect Aníbal González is turned away from the fountain —added by Vicente Traver y Tomás — because he wasn’t a fan of the feature.

The main structure is capped by a pair of domed towers that were originally planned to be much taller. However, concerns arose that they would end up dwarfing La Giralda, the iconic bell tower of the Seville Cathedral. To ensure this wouldn’t happen, they were shortened to 243 feet (74 meters) high — 77 feet less than La Giralda.

The South Tower of the Plaza de España stands about 243 feet (74 meters) tall.

Between 2007 and 2010, the plaza underwent a meticulous 14 million euro renovation, which included the installation of ceramic lamp posts and railings around the canal, restoring the landmark to its former glory. About €5 million was used to replace the pipes and update the canal’s water supply system. While the building’s various government offices aren’t open for tours, you can still admire the interior colonnade and access the upper floor balconies to take in a view of the plaza from above.

In the Córdoba alcove, the hand-painted azulejo mural portrays the moment the city surrendered to King Ferdinand III of Castile. The Torre Campanario of the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba is visible on the left, while the Torre de la Malmuerta stands on the right.

The Tiled Alcoves

As you walk around the central plaza, vibrant color is everywhere — every possible variation and combination of greens and blues, ranging from the aquamarine of the shallow shore to the cerulean blue of the deep ocean, with a visual jolt of cadmium yellow.

The outer rim of the plaza’s pavilion has 48 alcoves with plinth-style benches, clad in azulejos, glazed ceramic tiles produced in Triana, a neighborhood renowned for its ceramic artists, across the river from Sevilla’s historic center. 

Among the four dozen tile and ceramic murals representing the provinces of Spain in Seville’s Plaza de España, the painted tiles from Ciudad Real show Don Quixote in armor, as the noble knight he imagined himself to be, preparing to battle windmills alongside his squire, Sancho Panza.

Each shrine-like space is dedicated to a different Spanish province, and includes a tile map of its territory, its coat of arms and a tableau depicting a historical event or cultural scene from the region.

Pillared shelves topped with pináculos, ceramic finials, flank the alcoves. Initially, I assumed these shelves might have been for holding votive candles, but I learned that they once held pamphlets with information about each province during the exposition. 

This vibrant alcove at the Plaza de España features a colorful tableau for Badajoz, depicting King Alfonso IX of León’s recapture of the city from the Muslims in 1230 CE.

Beautiful details cover almost every inch of the plaza, many of which are the work of ceramicist and sculptor Pedro Navía y Campos. His craftsmanship can be seen in the 40 portrait medallions honoring prominent figures from Spain’s history that adorn the spandrels of the porticoed gallery.

Charming rowboats glide across the canal, offering a unique and serene way to experience the beauty of Plaza de España.

The Bridges

The Venetian-style footbridges that gracefully arch over the canal add a picturesque charm to the plaza and beautifully complement the symmetry of the pavilion.

Elegant bridges span the canal, blending Moorish, Renaissance and Spanish architectural styles.

They’re named after the four historical kingdoms of Spain: Castile, León, Navarre and Aragón. These bridges connect the open courtyard to the main building and galleries. Their blue and white balustrades were crafted by ceramist Manuel García Montalván. The administrative building is surrounded by a 1,690-foot-wide (515-meter) moat, where visitors can rent rowboats and leisurely paddle around. Wally and I haven’t done so yet — but we plan to in the future. 

Star Wars fans will particularly love visiting the Plaza de España, as it was a filming location for Theed Palace in Naboo where Anakin and Padmé fall in love during Star Wars II: Attack of the Clones.

Movies Filmed at Plaza de España

The Plaza de España has been used as a filming location for a few well-known movies, including Lawrence of Arabia (1962), where it served as a backdrop for Cairo, Egypt, and Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones (2002), when Anakin and Padme, followed by R2D2, arrive on Naboo and walk through the colonnade of the Palace of Theed. Most recently, it appeared as the palatial complex of an eccentric autocrat in The Dictator (2012) by Sacha Baron Cohen.

Plaza de España, a stunning architectural marvel in Sevilla, boasts a grand semicircular building, vibrant ceramic tile decorations and a serene canal, making it a captivating symbol of Spain’s artistic and cultural heritage.

The Lowdown

While we were exploring, we witnessed a wannabe influencer who clearly expected everyone to move aside as she directed her husband to take a photo of her standing on the stairs as if she were the only one there. When the crowds didn’t clear for her to get “the perfect shot,” she had a meltdown and stormed off, leaving her husband with their baby and stroller to chase after her.

Don’t be this woman. She threw a tantrum when other tourists refused to step aside so she could get her perfect shot.

The Plaza de España is located near the entrance of Maria Luisa Park across from the Universidad de Sevilla (University of Seville) and is about a five-minute walk following Avenida de Isabel la Católica. 

Even the staircases of Plaza de España are adorned with exquisite tilework.

If you’re planning on visiting during the daytime be sure to wear sunscreen to prevent sunburn and bring bottled water to stay hydrated, as the majority of the plaza is open and exposed. 

There aren’t any public bathrooms within the main pavilion, but there are pay toilets in a compact building at the front of the plaza, which cost 60 céntimos to use.

Paseo de Isabel la Católica offers a peaceful stroll amid lush greenery, with Plaza de España on one side and Parque de María Luisa on the other.

The Plaza de España is currently free to enter, but concerns about managing overtourism and the costs of preserving the historic site have prompted city officials to consider imposing an entry fee for non-citizens. 
Whatever the outcome may be, we suggest spending a lazy afternoon admiring this special place. –Duke

 

Las Setas de Sevilla FAQ: Seville’s Wooden Wonderland

Everything you need to know about the futuristic mushroom marvel Metropol Parasol in Plaza de la Encarnación.

One minute you’re walking down one of the shopping thoroughfares of Sevilla, Spain, and the next you come upon a plaza with mesmerizing, undulating woven wooden structures that look like a grove of gigantic mushrooms. It’s as if you’ve stepped into a fairy tale (or a Dr. Seuss book).

That’s exactly why this quirky sculpture, officially named Metropol Parasol, will always be known as Las Setas, or the Mushrooms, to locals and tourists alike. (Sort of like how no one calls the iconic silver sculpture in Chicago by its real name, Cloud Gate — it’s the Bean.)

“It’s as if you’ve stepped into a fairy tale (or a Dr. Seuss book).”

Here are some of the most frequently asked questions about Las Setas.

Why is Las Setas called Metropol Parasol?

Las Setas (aka Setas de Sevilla) is officially named Metropol Parasol. “Metropol” highlights the sculpture’s urban significance and integration into Sevilla’s cityscape, while “Parasol” refers to its umbrella-like structure, which provides much-needed shade in the scorching Andalusian climate.

What is the history of Las Setas in Seville?

The history of Las Setas de Sevilla begins with the need to renovate la Plaza de la Encarnación, which had become neglected. (You’d never know it now, as it’s surrounded by boutique shops and restaurants.) 

In 2004, an international competition was held to redesign the square, and German architect Jürgen Mayer’s innovative wooden structure took the prize. 

The project, completed in 2011, aimed to revitalize the area by combining modern architecture with the preservation of historic Roman ruins found during construction.

Las Setas de Sevilla is more than just an architectural wonder; it’s a lesson in urban transformation. It’s about taking risks, breaking molds and creating spaces that blend the old with the mind-bogglingly new. Sevilla’s got its historical charms — but Las Setas shows it’s also got its finger on the pulse of modern innovation. The once-sleepy Plaza de la Encarnación is now wide awake. 

When was Las Setas built? How long did it take to build?

From groundbreaking in 2005 to its grand opening in 2011, Las Setas’ journey was more of a marathon than a sprint. What accounted for the delays? Blame it on the unexpected yet fascinating archaeological finds beneath its feet. Turns out, building over centuries-old ruins isn’t exactly a walk in the park.

What are the architectural ruins below Las Setas de Sevilla?

Beneath the whimsical wooden canopy of Las Setas lies a treasure trove of ancient history. As the construction for this modern marvel began, builders unearthed significant archaeological ruins, revealing Sevilla’s layered past. 

This subterranean wonderland, known as the Antiquarium, showcases remnants from the Roman Empire, including mosaics, pottery and foundations of buildings dating back to the 1st century CE. Visitors can also glimpse traces of a 12th century Islamic Almohad house, bridging Sevilla’s Roman and Moorish eras.

What inspired the design of Las Setas?

Imagine what would happen if the vaults of the Seville Cathedral and local ficus trees had a baby. That’s Las Setas for you — a unique design that not only catches the eye but also connects nature to urban life.

Mayer wanted the sculpture to be not only striking but functional. “How do you approach a space that’s supposed to become the revitalized heart of a city?” he asked in 032c magazine. “The biggest asset that one can have, for three quarters of the year, is shade. So we tried out different geometric ideas, and in the end we decided on these circular elements that counter and respond to the variables of the square in a flexible way. It doesn’t seem rigid.”

What is Las Setas made of?

Las Setas de Sevilla is made of laminated timber. It holds the honor of being the world’s largest wooden structure, crafted of pine from Finland and coated with polyurethane for durability. 

The intricate honeycomb design consists of wooden lattices draped over columns. More than 3,400 wooden and concrete pieces were fit together like a gigantic jigsaw puzzle.

Who knew a bunch of wood planks could look so cool?

How much did Las Setas cost to build?

The construction of Las Setas de Sevilla cost about 100 million euros — ballooning significantly from its original €86 million budget. This substantial investment covered the innovative design, the use of high-quality laminated timber and the various facilities housed within the structure, including an archaeological museum, a market and event spaces.

Can you go to the top of Las Setas in Seville?

Yes, you can go to the top of Las Setas.

An elevated 380-yard (350-meter) walkway allows you to saunter around and through the parasols, offering dizzying views of Sevilla’s classic rooftops and plazas. The walkway culminates at the topmost mushroom cap, almost 80 feet (24 meters) high, featuring a viewing platform where you can pretend you’re royalty surveying your kingdom below.

Visitors can access this area via elevators housed in the concrete columns of the structure.

How can I buy tickets for Las Setas de Sevilla?

Ready to explore this mushroom wonderland? Tickets to visit the top of Las Setas start at €5 (free for kids under 6), with options to add a sprinkle of virtual reality or a dash of audio guide to your experience for €3 each. 

You can buy them online, or onsite in the lower level.

What are the opening hours of Las Setas?

Las Setas de Sevilla is open from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., making it the perfect spot for both early birds and night owls. Just keep in mind it’s closed on major holidays — because even mushrooms need a day off.

Where to eat at Las Setas?

The dining options at and near Las Setas de Sevilla are as eclectic and exciting as the structure itself. Here’s a rundown of some spots that range from casual bites to more refined dining:

1. La Mala Brunch: Located right under Las Setas, this gem serves up Mediterranean and healthy bites for a casual brunch or tapas session. Think avocado toast (with oversized wooden mushrooms).

2. Ibericos Vera: Right inside the Mercado de la Encarnación, this stall offers traditional Spanish tapas. Good for a quick, delicious bite.

3. Cervecería La Sureña: Serving up cuisine from the South of Spain, this bar is great for an affordable lunch or evening drinks with a killer view.

4. Tropiqual: Tired of tapas? If you’re craving sushi or steak, this upscale option works for when you’re feeling a bit fancy.

5. La Gorda de Las Setas: Offering Mediterranean and Spanish dishes, this spot is perfect for enjoying tapas with a side of architectural awe.

6. LaSanta: A short walk from Las Setas, this spot serves international and Mediterranean dishes in a casual setting.

7. Burro Canaglia Bar & Resto: Dishes up Italian food in a stylish atmosphere. Perfect for when you’re wanting pizza or pasta.

8. Patio San Eloy: A casual bar serving tapas. Great for a budget-friendly yet tasty meal.

9. Doña Encarna: This chic spot offers traditional local fare that’s even better than your abuelita makes.

10. Virgen Coffee: The best place to grab a quick coffee break, making some of the best lattes in Seville.

11. Tablao Flamenco Las Setas: Combine your meal with a show. Enjoy live flamenco performances along with signature cocktails and traditional Andalusian flavors for an immersive cultural experience.

What’s there to do at Las Setas besides enjoying the view?

Really, Las Setas de Sevilla is a cool urban square to hang out in, people-watch or read on a bench. Children ride bikes and clamber about the small playlot. 

But beyond its spectacular views, Las Setas is a treasure trove of history with the Antiquarium, where ancient Roman and Moorish artifacts are displayed. Tickets are €2.

And don’t miss the light show — a nightly spectacle that turns the structure into a glowing piece of rainbow-hued art.

Where is Las Setas located in Seville?

Las Setas is in the Plaza de la Encarnación, a central square in Sevilla. It’s about a 10-minute walk due north of the cathedral. 

What events are held at Las Setas in Seville?

Las Setas hosts a variety of events throughout the year, including cultural performances, art exhibitions, concerts and markets. The elevated plaza and the shaded areas below are versatile spaces used for different types of public and private events, making it a vibrant community hub in Sevilla.

Why was Las Setas controversial?

Las Setas didn’t sprout superfans overnight — it also grew a fair share of controversy. Critics argued that its modern design clashed with Sevilla’s historic aesthetic. Plus, the project’s high cost — rumored to hit the €100 million mark — didn’t sit well in a country there the economy was taking a siesta. 

And the local Muslim community thought the Mushrooms looked a bit too phallic for their tastes. 

Despite the initial pushback, Las Setas has ripened into a beloved icon of the city, showing that even the most divisive fungi can find their fan base. 

Las Setas: Sevilla’s Fungal Fantasia

So, there you have it — Las Setas in a nutshell. It’s weird, wonderful and unapologetically Sevilla. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast or just someone in search of the perfect Instagram backdrop, Las Setas is a can’t-miss spectacle. –Wally

 

The Joyful, Colorful World of Randyland in Pittsburgh

From the imagination of Randy Gilson: how this haven of whimsy and reclaimed objects has helped revitalize the Steel City.

Randy Gilson, the mad genius behind the folk art spectacle Randyland

Nestled in the heart of Pittsburgh’s Mexican War Streets neighborhood is the vibrant and colorful landmark known to locals as Randyland. The historic district was developed in the mid 19th century, shortly after the Mexican-American War — which is why its streets are named after battles and generals from the war.

“In 1995 Randy purchased the building on the corner of Jacksonia and Arch Streets for $10,000.

He used his credit card.”

Rubble, rubble: Randy working on Randyland in the ’90s

The History of Randyland

The story began when its imaginative creator, Randy Gilson, moved to the Central Northside neighborhood in the early ’80s. Randy saw the district’s potential, despite its decline, and became a community activist. He started clearing trash and converting city-owned vacant lots into green spaces. Fueled by a singular vision and a knack for repurposing discarded objects into art, Randy embarked on a mission to create a public space that embodied joy and positivity.

In 1995 he purchased the building on the corner of Jacksonia and Arch Streets for $10,000. He used his credit card. But there was no stopping his vision: to transform the space into a haven of creativity. Over the following decades, the whimsical outdoor oasis of Randyland emerged.

When Randy creates his artwork, it looks like he gets as much paint on his pants as he does on the house.

What started as a single house adorned with colorful murals has blossomed into a sprawling art collection. Found objects — everything from plastic pink flamingos to mannequin heads to bottle caps — are given a new lease on life, meticulously incorporated into the ever-evolving landscape. Whimsical sculptures welcome visitors, their painted surfaces reflecting the playful spirit of the place. 

Local residents and volunteers rallied behind Randy’s vision, donating materials, time and expertise to help bring Randyland to life. Over the years, Randy has created numerous pieces of art and has planted more than 800 trees and 50 vegetable gardens around Pittsburgh.

Families mill about Randyland during the Mexican War Streets House & Garden Tour.

Bringing Together the Community

Randyland’s artistic style is a delightful combination of folk and outsider art. There’s no adherence to established artistic conventions; the beauty lies in the sheer exuberance and the personal touch evident in every detail. The three-story house itself is a canvas, its bright yellow exterior adorned with fantastical scenes and characters.

The whimsical wonderland of Randyland

But Randyland is more than just a visual spectacle. It’s a space that fosters a sense of community. Randy, with his infectious enthusiasm, is a constant presence, engaging with visitors and sharing the story behind his creation. The museum has become a gathering place for locals and tourists alike, a vibrant counterpoint to the industrial backdrop of Pittsburgh.

Step this way! A cutout of Randy greets visitors to Randyland in Pittsburgh.

The impact of Randyland extends far beyond its physical boundaries. It has played a pivotal role in the cultural revitalization of the North Side, inspiring other institutions such as the Mattress Factory, a contemporary art space, to flourish in the area. And its fame has transcended geographical borders. Randyland had been featured on viral listicles and in a steady stream of social posts, thanks to its numerous photogenic vignettes.

Mac, who sadly passed away, helping his partner, Randy upkeep the attraction. Their hard work has helped revitalize the Mexican War Streets neighborhood.

Not All Rainbows and Unicorns

However, Randyland’s journey hasn’t been without its challenges. The extensive use of found objects means constant maintenance and repair. And the recent passing of Randy’s longtime partner, David “Mac” McDermott, who played a crucial role in the attraction’s operation, left a void. 

Yet the spirit of Randyland remains undimmed.

Randy’s work never ends — so while the attraction is free to visit, consider leaving a donation.

Visiting Randyland

The museum is a nonprofit organization, with donations from visitors forming the backbone of its financial support. Volunteers play a vital role in keeping the installations fresh and vibrant. You can also buy Randy’s merch in his store.

The museum is open every day of the week from 10 a.m. until 5:30 p.m. but may be closed during winter due to the weather.

If you’d like to experience the magic of Randyland yourself, find the perfect place to stay. Sites like Cozycozy make it easy to search for accommodations near Randyland and other Pittsburgh attractions, ensuring a comfortable and convenient stay in the Steel City. –Tímea Nguyen

There’s lots of fun, artsy things to buy at the general store.

“Fueled by a singular vision and a knack for repurposing discarded objects into art, Randy embarked on a mission to create a public space that embodied joy and positivity.”

You can’t miss Randyland, a fun activity for kids of all ages.

Randyland

1501 Arch Street
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 15212
USA

 

Pittsburgh Is Anything But the Pits

Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba: Local Artists Through the Ages

Looking for things to do in Córdoba, Spain? Take a detour at the Cordoba Museum of Fine Arts and explore the city’s historic and artistic legacy.

The Cordoba Fine Arts Musuem is unassuming but provides an educational diversion for an hour or so. One gallery is dedicated to the works of sculptor Mateo Inurria and his works, including Les Tres Edades de la Mujer (The Three Ages of Woman) from 1923.

While looking for things for Wally and me to do beyond the remarkable Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, I stumbled upon an image of a room featuring a vibrant yellow totemic sculpture. The picture, which intrigued me, was from the Turismo de Córdoba website and was one of the galleries inside the Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba (Cordoba Fine Arts Museum). 

Colt Fountain in Plaza del Potro is an homage to the livestock that was once sold here.

Plaza del Potro: Where Livestock (and Sex) were Sold

The modest museum is tucked into a courtyard off the Plaza del Potro (Colt Square) and a short walk from where we were staying at Los Patios del Pañuelo. While commonly called a square, the plaza has evolved over time and is now a rectangle that stretches down to the Guadalquivir River. It contains two monuments: a fountain crowned with a sculpture of a rearing colt (hence the “potro” in its name), balanced atop a pineapple-shaped vase, and a statue of the archangel San Rafael, the city’s patron saint. 

Fun fact: Once a bustling hub for livestock traders, artisans and travelers, the square included the Posada de Potro (Colt Inn), a medieval brothel that was frequented by celebrated Spanish novelist Miguel de Cervantes. The author mentions the inn in his novel Don Quixote, referring to it as a “den of thieves.”

Sadly, the inn (a nicer way of saying whorehouse?), has since closed. Today, the storied property is home to the Centro Flamenco Fosforito, a small museum dedicated to renowned singer, Antonio Fernández Díaz, aka Fosforito, and the art of flamenco. 

To reach the museum, Wally and I went through a passage on the exterior of the former Franciscan Hospital de la Caridad (Charity Hospital), where the words “Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes” are carved in stone above the doorway. Once inside, we found a peaceful courtyard with a fountain surrounded by orange trees and a pair of busts. One pays homage to the museum’s first director, painter Rafael Romero Barros, while the other honors novelist, diplomat and politician Juan Valera. 

You enter the museum courtyard through the arched doorway seen here, underneath the fancy writing.

Andalusia is filled with charming courtyards, and this one doesn’t disappoint, with its beautiful stonework paths.

The museum’s collections span centuries and encompass paintings, drawings, sculptures and engravings by Cordoban artists from the 16th to the 21st century. 

After purchasing our entrance tickets, we noticed the bronze head of Gonzalo Fernández, the “Gran Capitán,” attributed to sculptor Mateo Inurria. 

Fernández earned his nickname “the Great Captain” by leading successful campaigns during the Conquest of Granada and the Italian Wars while serving the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella.

Cabeza de Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba para el Monumento al Gran Capitán (Head of Gonzalo Fernández of Córdoba for the Monument to the Great Captain) by Mateo Inurria, 1915

Notice how the head of this statue is marble while the rest of it is bronze? The original metal head can be found in the Fine Arts Museum, though we’re not sure what prompted this odd decision.

Fun fact: This is the original head of an equestrian monument in la Plaza de las Tendillas, the town’s main square. For some reason, it was replaced by a head sculpted from white marble, in contrast to the rest of the figure.

You can start your exploration of the museum by turning left into the room covering the Baroque period and seeing religious art reappropriated by the government.

The Baroque in Córdoba 

We began our tour of the museum in Room IV, which held a number of impressive ecclesiastical works made at the height of Baroque painting in Córdoba. During this period, artists like Antonio del Castillo y Saavedra embraced naturalistic realism, employing chiaroscuro—the use of light and dark to emphasize the emotional narrative in their works. 

Inmaculada Concepción (Immaculate Conception) by Juan Antonio de Frías y Escalante, 1667

El Sacrificio de Isaac (The Sacrifice of Isaac) by Antonio del Castillo y Saavedra, circa 1650

The majority of these artworks were acquired from convents during La Desamortización, a period from 1835 to 1868, when the Spanish government seized monastic properties belonging to the Catholic Church, turning them into “national assets,” which were then sold at public auction to the highest bidder.  

One of the most coveted artistic projects after 1600 was the creation of 24 paintings for the altars of the cloister at the Franciscan Convent of San Pedro el Real by Antonio del Castillo. These canvases depict episodes from the life of Saint Francis de Assisi. In the museum’s painting, the scene depicts an angel holding the newborn saint above a baptismal font. 

Bautismo de San Francisco de Asis (Baptism of Saint Francis of Assisi) by Antonio del Castillo y Saavedra, circa 1664

Fun fact: The oil painting is signed “Non fecit Alfar” (Alfaro didn’t do it). This signifies that Castillo won the commission over his competitor, Juan de Alfaro y Gámez. How delightfully petty!

Bendición Sánchez by Julio Romero de Torres, 1904

The 18th and 19th Centuries in Córdoba 

The next gallery we visited contained works from the 18th and 19th centuries, predominantly featuring local landscapes, portraits and still lifes by the museum’s founder, Barros. 

Bodegón de Naranjas (Still Life With Oranges) by Rafael Romero Barros, 1863

The Baroque style eventually yielded to Rococo, and around 1775, in the wake of the Lisbon earthquake, it shifted once more, leading to a wave of local artists embracing Romanticism. Around this time, the Escuela Provincial de Bellas Artes was established, and within its walls, Barros emerged as a prominent figure. 

Barros assumed a dual role as both director and mentor to a group of art students, including Tomás Muñoz Lucena, Rafael Hidalgo de Caviedes and Inurria. Among them were his sons, Enrique, Rafael and Julio Romero de Torres.

Un Recuerdo de África, Novia Sefardí (A Memory of Africa, Sephardic Bride) by Rafael Romero Barros, 1878

Columbus Leaving the Mosque by Rafael Romero Barros, 1886

The painting Columbus Leaving the Mosque by Rafael Romero Barros was inspired by a poem by the Duke of Rivas titled “Romance of a Great Man.” It depicts Columbus leaving the Mosque-Cathedral after prayer and encountering his future mistress, Beatriz Enríquez de Arana, for the first time. According to legend, she brought Columbus to her home to protect him from mocking children who regarded him as a madman for seeking royal backing for his voyage to the New World.

We were pleasantly surprised to discover there was quite a large collection of modern art as well.

Art in the Modern Era: 20th Century and Beyond

Throughout the 20th century, local artists changed their styles to suit prevailing tastes, shifting from Realism to Modernism to Regionalism. They drew inspiration from contemporary artists like Rafael Botí, Pedro Bueno and Ángel López, who delved into Impressionism and Fauvism. In contrast, individuals like Antonio Rodríguez Luna and Alfonso Ariza embraced avant-garde movements such as Cubism, Abstraction and Expressionism.

Sin Título (Untitled) by José Duarte Montilla, 1981

El Cante (Flamenco Song) by Julia Hidalgo Quejo, 2005

La Fuente del Patio del Museo (The Fountain in the Museum Courtyard) by Rafael Botí Gaitán, 1990

Mujeres Vela (Sail Women) by Antonio Rodríguez Luna, 1945

A key figure among this group of artists was the sculptor Inurria. The museum has a room dedicated to his works.

Un Náufrago (A Castaway) by Mateo Inurria, 1890

While exploring the gallery, I was captivated by a peculiar painting by Ginés Liébana. His dreamlike piece Buenas Mujeres para ser Caballos (Good Women to Be Horses) was painted in 1979. Liébana creates a surreal scene by combining elements: a woman’s head adorned with a flower-covered hat on a horse’s body. He integrates local landmarks, such as the rearing colt of the Plaza del Potro and the figure of the Archangel Rafael, into this otherworldly landscape.

Buenas Mujeres para ser Caballos (Good Women to be Horses) by Ginés Liébana, 1979

Fun fact: Liébana contributed his distinctive style to Cántico, an avant-garde artistic magazine led by poet Ricardo Molina. The publication used poetry and illustration to challenge the status quo during the Franco dictatorship. 

Faded religious frescos and graffiti scribbled by hospital patients line the staircase.

Stairway to Heaven: Frescoes and Graffiti

The staircase leading to the upper floor includes graffiti that most likely was the work of hospital patients. One of these is a labyrinth with seven concentric circles surrounding a central point—visible beneath a monochromatic mural of Saint Jerome. 

On the rear wall, a religious scene depicts Christ on the Cross between the Virgin and Saint John the Evangelist. Flanking this central image is Saint Jerome, clutching a stone for beating his breast in penitence, and Saint Francis of Assisi in prayer. 

El Retablo de la Flagelación (Altarpiece of the Flagellation of Christ), circa 1500

Gothic and Renaissance Art in Córdoba 

The Gothic movement gained popularity in Córdoba in the late 14th century. However, it wasn’t until the 15th century that painters’ guilds flourished, distinguishing Córdoba from other Andalusian cities, such as Sevilla and Granada.

This environment was conducive to establishing major workshops by artists, including Alonso Martínez, Pedro de Córdoba, Jorge and Alejo Fernández, and Baltasar del Águila. Under the reigns of Charles V and Phillip II, local art underwent a transformation, departing from Gothic influences and embracing new expressions of Renaissance humanism. This worldview focused on the nature and importance of humanity that originated from the study of classical antiquity.

Here you can see an altarpiece from the chapel of a hospital founded in the 14th century by alderman Antón Cabrera and his wife, Beatriz de Heredia. The facility closed down in 1837. 

El Retablo de la Flagelación (Altarpiece of the Flagellation of Christ) is a superb example of the Córdoba school’s work and showcases the unknown artist’s adept use of Renaissance techniques. The composition of the figures reflects the Northern European style, popularized through engravings, and the panel as a whole draws inspiration from a similar painting produced by the German artist Martin Schongauer around 1480. 

Its side panels depict Saint John the Evangelist and Saint Anthony of Padua on the right, and Saint Anthony Abbot and Saint Francis of Assisi on the left, each with their distinctive iconography.

Fun fact: The artwork was initially misattributed to Alonso de Aguilar due to the mistranslation of a document accompanying the piece when it was acquired by the museum in 1866. 

Retrato de Joaquín y Rafael Mir de las Heras Niños (Portrait of Joaquin and Rafael Mir de las Heras Children) by Enrique Romero de Torres, 1905

A Life Fit for a Museum

The final gallery featured the exhibition Museum Worthy Life, dedicated to painter Enrique Romero de Torres (yes, the entire family had serious skills). After his father, Rafael, passed away in 1896, Enrique stepped up to run the museum as the director and curator. His responsibilities for the next 30 years kept him from dedicating himself entirely to painting. But under his direction, the renovations and expansions of the museum were carried out, with him paying for part of the works and donating, along with his brothers, paintings by his father. 

Take a quick lesson in local art history at the Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba, from Baroque to modern.

Listen, there are a lot of things you’ve gotta do in Córdoba, including La Mezquita, the Alcázar and the Palacio de Viana (not to mention taking a picture of the Roman Bridge). But if you have some free time, I recommend visiting this museum. Admission is only 1.50 euros (about $1.60) and is free to EU passport holders. The curation of each gallery is well thought out, ensuring an easy and enjoyable experience. Plus it’s a cool experience that will expose you to the artistic talents of Córdoba. –Duke

Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba 

Plaza del Potro, 1
Centro, 14002
Córdoba
Spain

 

Fashion in Full Bloom at Billy Porter’s Extravaganza at the Phipps Conservatory

A journey through the impressive Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens in Pittsburgh, where the latest exhibit, Flowers Meet Fashion: Inspired by Billy Porter is a fusion of flora and fabulousness. Strike a pose!

Duke, Mima and Papa were so inspired by the Japanese Garden at the Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, they decided to only speak in haiku.

I’ll say it: The Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens puts Chicago’s Garfield Park Conservatory to shame. It was definitely one of the highlights of our trip to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, where we spent a delightful long weekend with my parents. This stunning gem of Victorian-era architecture, adjacent to Panther Hollow in Schenley Park, has captivated guests for more than a century — and is sure to do so for years to come.

Visitors to the Phipps are greeted by a towering figure standing in front of a pink neon sign that reads, "You are an Icon." The skirt is made of petal-like layers. If you look closely, you can see hidden details, such as a map of Pittsburgh and song lyrics from the musical Kinky Boots.

From Roots to the Runway

Throughout the year, the conservatory changes themes seasonally, and our visit serendipitously coincided with the opening day of their summer show, Flowers Meet Fashion, a celebration of native son Billy Porter's local roots, his sartorial style and his love of flowers. 

For those of you who don’t know, Porter is an Emmy, Grammy, and Tony award winning performer and fashion icon. Billy is well known for his bold, creative and androgynous style, and is a tireless advocate for LGBTQ+ rights. According to the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, the seeds for the show were sown in the summer of 2021, when Porter returned to the City of Champions to direct the movie Anything's Possible, a coming of age romantic comedy about a trans girl in her senior year of high school. While shooting scenes at the conservatory, Billy found common ground with the personnel and decided to become a board member.

As Billy wrote in his memoir, Unprotected:

I didn’t have the words for any of this at the time, just a child's awareness that people carried themselves differently in different clothing, that fashion could affect a profound transformation, on the outside and inside both.

The Phipps purchased a few favorites from past exhibitions to add to their permanent collection, including American glass sculptor Dale Chihuly’s Goldenrod, Teal and Citron chandelier. The stunning sculpture hangs in the atrium, where it can be enjoyed by all visitors.

A Welcoming Homage to Porter’s Pittsburgh Roots

Our experience began on the ground floor of the airy glass-domed Welcome Center, where a 7.5-foot-tall silver mannequin positioned near the entrance stood wearing a voluminous black gown. Entitled “Home Grown: Planted Roots,” the garment was designed by Madison Michalko, one of six professional costume designers tapped to create pieces for the show.

Michalko found her muse in Billy’s gender-fluid style and in the state of Pennsylvania. The bodice of the dress is shaped like a keystone, the state’s official symbol, accented with gold buttons and white mountain laurel blossoms, the state flower. The wide-brimmed hat is a nod to the crystal-fringed one Porter wore at the 2019 Grammys and features strands of LED lights that flicker like lightning bugs, the state insect.

This tuxedo dress by Damian Dominguez is a powerful statement about the importance of self-expression and the freedom to be who you are. The top is an homage to Mister Rogers, while the skirt is a nod to Dominguez’s Mexican heritage.

Palm Court: The Dress That Defied Convention

The four of us took an elevator up to the first of 14 interconnected conservatory pavilions and entered the spectacular Palm Court. The palms grow in the central and largest room of the conservatory, which reaches 65 feet in height, is 60 feet wide and 450 feet long. 

Holding court before us on a raised platform was a stunning dress by Mexican-American costume designer and Carnegie Mellon University alumnus Damian E. Dominguez. The look was inspired by the now-iconic black velvet tuxedo gown and matching bolero jacket designed by Christian Siriano for Porter to wear at the 2019 Academy Awards. Porter’s ensemble pushed boundaries and raised a few eyebrows at the somewhat restrained awards show. 

Like Siriano’s dress, Dominguez’s gown is also made from velvet but features a red tuxedo jacket in a nod to another Pittsburgh native, Fred Rogers. The hand-embroidered skirt includes a yellow bridge, as well as marigolds and dahlias, a nod to the designer’s heritage and the traditional full skirts of Mexico, where Dominguez’s parents were born.

Carnegie Mellon students Chloe Brown, Huixin Kang, and Jen Tepe reimagined a 1960s pantsuit that takes inspiration from the late British fashion designer Alexander McQueen's iconic Sarabande dress.

Sunken Garden: A Beacon of Hope

Our next stop was the Sunken Garden, which was filled with the colorful and creative designs by students from the Fundamentals of Costume Design class taught by Susan Tsu, professor of design at Carnegie Mellon, Porter’s alma mater. The students had been asked to read his memoir and then work in teams to create designs that reflected different aspects of Porter’s life and career. 

We paused to admire the sheer white pantsuit with crocheted fungi created by Chloe Brown, Huixin Kang and Jem Tepe. The designers explained that the fungi are a botanical metaphor for Porter’s exploration of his identity and his journey to self-reliance.

Could there be a pea in this pod? Caifeng Hong and Katherine Chung’s design was out of this world. 

Caifeng Hong and Katherine Chung’s look was inspired by the theme of contrast and rebirth. The dress is made of olive green netting layered over a green silk organza gown and collar that conceals the face of the mannequin. The contrast between the light and airy netting and the heavy and luxurious organza creates a sense of movement and energy. The collar, meanwhile, adds a touch of mystery and intrigue. The overall effect is a dress that is both ethereal and otherworldly, evoking something extraterrestrial.

Carrie Anne Huneycutt and Evan Riley’s collaboration was Somewhere Over the Rainbow, celebrating Porter's legacy as a trailblazing figure in the LGBTQ+ community. 

Carrie Anne Huneycutt and Evan Riley collaborated on the third look, entitled “Statue of Liberation.” The corseted dress is enveloped by a shimmering rainbow that soars above the mannequin’s head and is held aloft by a torch made of colorful fabric strips. The “flames” emanating from the torch represent Porter’s passion, determination and generosity of spirit.

Cathy Trostle-Olivar's dazzling Egyptianate look floats above the water of the Victoria Room. 

Fit for a Queen: From Camp to High Art 

In the Victoria Room, a luminous costume rose from the waters. The look was designed by Cathy Trostle-Olivar and was inspired by Porter’s glittering gold Egyptian sun god Ra costume at the 2019 Met Gala. The theme that year was camp, which Porter said can sometimes be seen as “cheesy.” However, when executed properly, it can ascend to “the highest forms of fashion and art.” The pavilion uses blue Egyptian lotus aka waterlily and tall stately papyrus to great effect. 

Three bronze maiden statues by Edmond Amateis, which originally stood within niches in the walled garden of the local Mellon estate, hold court among the formal French garden at the back of the Broderie Room.

The Broderie Room: The XIV Factor

Modeled after the formal period gardens of French chateaux during the reign of Louis XIV, the Broderie Room takes its name from the French “parterre de broderie,” a type of garden arrangement translated as “embroidery of earth.” This style of garden design came from a time when nature was considered a force to be tamed. 

I don’t speak French, but I think that this photo of Wally and Mima is très mignon. 

This fabulous footwear is a wink to the 2013 musical Kinky Boots, which Porter starred in, and a reminder that sometimes the most unexpected things can save the day. 

While visitors are discouraged from throwing coins into the many ponds and water features throughout the conservatory to protect the flora and fauna, a wishing well can be found here. 

Chihuly’s celestial Desert Gold Star sculpture provides a brilliant blast of color amid the green hues of desert flora.

These flowers are so whimsical, they could have been plucked straight out of a Dr. Seuss book.

Gallery Room: Blooming With Creativity 

Visual arts students from CAPA 6-12, a local creative and performing arts school, have transformed the Gallery Room at Phipps Conservatory into a whimsical wonderland. Using papier-mâché, the students have created larger-than-life flowers and animals that are sure to delight visitors of all ages.

The Gallery Room showcases a collection of critters created by local students.

The centerpiece of the exhibit is a towering salvia spike that nearly reaches the ceiling. The spike is made up of hundreds of individual flowers, all of which have been carefully hand-crafted by the students. And in the center of the room, a menagerie of amphibians and animals frolic in a whimsical forest.

These looks made from plant material by Phipps master gardeners were so avant-garde, they could be on the red carpet at the Oscars.

South Conservatory: “Hort” couture

The sound of camera shutters and the strobe of flashbulbs add a fun theatrical element to the red carpet vibe of the South Conservatory room. Wally spoke with one of the friendly conservatory staffers, who informed him that the topiary models were created by the master gardeners at the Phipps. The nature-inspired garments were fashioned from plant material sourced and crafted onsite at the conservatory and are so stunning, they would impress the judges on Project Runway.

The first mannequin featured a dried leaf hat in the shape of a lady slipper orchid, and a full skirt fabricated from clusters of blue hydrangea flowers contrasted by a form-fitting acid green palm frond bodice.

This look, inspired by a tetra fish, is sure to turn heads — even underwater!

The second look reimagines the scales of a neon tetra fish. Blue-painted magnolia leaves create a fish scale pattern on the jacket and hood, while salal leaves were used for the pants. Marigold-colored staghorn ferns are transformed into the cuffs and lapels, and painted monstera leaves create the “tail fin.” The deep-sea diver-like boots are made of upcycled accession tags, the metal labels that are issued to plants when they become part of the Phipps collection.

Well, this look is one fashion-forward way to channel your inner bird (note the nest atop its head and the dress details made of pheasant feathers).

The third look uses salal leaves trimmed with pampas grass and a dried grapevine garland to create drama and height, encircling the mannequin's waist and head like a bird’s nest. Completing the look are upcycled accession tag bracelets and white pheasant tail feathers.

The woman Wally had spoken with about the topiary models also told him about the Tropical Forest Conservatory, a 12,000-square-foot, 60-foot-high space located behind the South Conservatory. If she hadn't, I think we might have walked right by it, which would have been a shame. The incredible space is home to the immersive Tropical Forest Hawai'i, showcasing a variety of endemic and native species from the state. 

As soon as we stepped inside, we were transported to another world. The air was humid and warm, and we were surrounded by lush vegetation, with towering native trees and cascading waterfalls. 

This lettuce-covered look was a showstopper. I sure hope there’s an opening under the hat so the fish can eat!

The Serpentine Room: Salad Days and a Surprise 

As we made our way past the final five costumes, found in the Serpentine Room, I was unsure which look I liked best. But once I saw the aquaponics dress, I knew without a doubt that it was my favorite. The ingenious installation was a truly innovative and sustainable design. The clear acrylic body contained live goldfish, and the hoop skirt was made of living lettuce. A placard explained that the lettuce cleans the water and maintains a healthy ecosystem for the fish, whose waste, in turn, fertilize the plants. It was a truly beautiful — and functional —  piece of art.

Drag queen Thee Suburbia’s ruby red dress is a tribute to Porter’s uplifting message and blooms with the power of positivity.

Brooklyn-based drag performer Thee Suburbia designed the ruby red dress. She was inspired by a personal encounter with Porter, who spoke to the entire crew about the importance of lifting one’s surroundings, while working on a music video shoot for his song “Children.” Thee Suburbia’s gown pays homage to Porter’s attire that day as well as his words. The bursting blooms are a metaphor for the power needed to be an uplifting and inspiring force. It’s a friendly reminder to Phipps visitors that we can make the world a better place by lifting each other up.

Mindy Eshelman’s sustainable suit and cape is a sartorial love letter to Pittsburgh and our planet.

Next up was a white mandarin collar suit and oxblood-lined cape designed by Mindy Eshelman, associate professor of costume design at Carnegie Mellon. The sustainable, locally sourced and upcycled vintage piece was a perfect reflection of Porter’s deep connection to Pittsburgh, as well as the possibilities for our collective future — one in which caring for the planet is imperative. The look has been paired with vintage brooches, including flowers for Phipps, bees recalling our interconnectedness with the natural world, and butterflies symbolizing personal transformation. 

NYC performer Gloria Swansong’s designs evolved from the long-established pageantry of drag queen balls, a parade of gender expression and aesthetics.

To close out the show, New York City drag performer Gloria Swansong served up two stunning looks inspired by the underground 1980s ballroom scene. Category is: Botanicals Eleganza.

The first was an Old Hollywood-style gown made of shimmering blush pink silk organza. The sleek form-fitting dress was adorned with silk roses handmade in NYC by M&S Schmalberg.

The second look was an iridescent bouquet sleeve dress, a beautiful and meaningful tribute inscribed with the names of ballroom legends to honor their contributions to the community.

Don't forget to stop and “Strike a Pose” in front of the Instagram-friendly pink and green vertical wall before you leave the Serpentine Room.

Café Phipps: Lunch Break  

We arrived at the conservatory at 10:30 a.m. and were starving by noon. My dad and I are both notorious for getting hangry, so the four of us headed over to Café Phipps, which is located in the Welcome Center, across from the gift shop.

After taking a look at the elevated and healthy menu options, we agreed to have lunch there. The menu featured a variety of dishes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Wally and I shared a spinach and kiwi salad and a Hawaiian pulled pork sandwich. Both were delicious and satisfying.

Another Chihuly work, Celadon and Royal Purple Gilded Fiori, captures attention at the center of the Tropical Fruit and Spice Room.

Chihuly’s vibrant glass installation, Cattails, can be found nestled amongst the lush greenery of the Palm Court. 

The Porter-inspired show is a delightful experience, where talent and collaboration flourish. Whether or not you make this summer’s show, though, the Phipps is a feast for the senses. 

Be sure to find the Longfellows by Hans Godo Fräbel in the Orchid Room.

The Lowdown

Flowers Meet Fashion: Inspired by Billy Porter is on display at the Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens until June 25. 

Admission is $21.95 for adults; $19.95 for students over 18 and seniors 62 and older; $13.95 for children ages 2-18; and free for Phipps members and children under 2. 

A bronze sculpture of Scottish poet Robert Burns, holding a plow and contemplating a mountain daisy, stands outside one of the Victorian glasshouses at the Phipps Conservatory.

Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens 

1 Schenley Park Drive 
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
USA

 

10 Over-the-Top Attractions in Dubai: From an Indoor Ski Resort to Dolphin Shows

Dubai is a city packed full of amazing destinations. Here are the must-see spectacles to add to your Dubai itinerary, including Mall of the Emirates, the Museum of the Future, Dubai Global Village and Dubai Miracle Garden. 

There’s so much to see and do in the megacity of Dubai in the UAE. We’ve whittled down the list to the top 10 picks to add to your Dubai trip.

In what seems like the blink of an eye, Dubai has grown into what could be considered the entertainment capital of the world — a treasure trove teeming with hundreds of attractions that draw millions of visitors from around the world. What more would you expect of a megacity built in the middle of a desert?

With its ultra-modern architecture, magnificent skyline and exotic lifestyle, Dubai is synonymous with grandeur and luxury. Almost every attraction in the UAE metropolis is built with the utmost precision and dedication, captivating the world’s attention.

With such a long list, finding the best of Dubai can be challenging. So, here’s my list of the top 10 destinations in Dubai, complete with a fun fact about each.

1. Mall of the Emirates

The Mall of Emirates is the second-largest shopping mall in Dubai and was established in the year 2005. Equipped with almost everything you can possibly imagine, the mall is one of the top places to visit in Dubai. Several cafés, restaurants, theaters and retail outlets sell hundreds of high-end brands. But the main attraction of the Mall of Emirates is Ski Dubai, an indoor ski resort!

Fun fact: Ski Dubai includes the world’s first indoor black (expert) run, which is 400 meters (a quarter of a mile) long and has a gradient of 60 degrees.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Monday to Thursday)
10 a.m. to 12 a.m. (Friday to Sunday)

Sheikh Zayed Road

2. IMG Worlds of Adventure

Get ready for a day filled with adventure at IMG Worlds of Adventure, Dubai’s ultimate indoor theme park. This massive wonderland is divided into zones, including the Lost Valley, a prehistoric land where dinosaurs roam; Cartoon Network Zone, where you could meet Ben 10 and the Powerpuff Girls; and Marvel, with thrilling rides and attractions that will leave you feeling like a superhero. Oh, and there’s even a haunted hotel, if you dare!

Fun fact: The park’s Velociraptor roller coaster is one of the fastest in the world, with a top speed of 62 miles per hour (100 kilometers per hour).

Hours: 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Sunday to Friday)
12 p.m. to 11 p.m. (Saturday)

Sheikh Mohammed Bin Zayed Road

3. Museum of the Future

What will the world be like in 2071? That’s what this forward-looking museum tries to predict. Before you even go in, admire the torus-shaped architectural wonder created by Killa Design. Then go on an immersive journey into the future and learn more about how astronauts survive in space and how you can help reduce the effects of global warming.

Fun fact: The façade is made of stainless steel plates that feature Arabic calligraphy quotes from Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the ruler of Dubai.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Near Emirates Towers Metro Station
Sheikh Zayed Road

4. Dubai Dolphinarium

Home to the majestic Black Sea bottlenose dolphins, the Dubai Dolphinarium is one of the coolest places to visit in Dubai with kids. Watch the fur seals and dolphins join together in a fun performance, and under the supervision of a trained professional, you also get to interact, play, feed and swim with these delightful sea creatures.

Fun fact: The Dolphinarium has a rare albino bottlenose dolphin named Kekaimalu, which means “From the Peaceful Ocean” in Hawaiian.

Hours:  9 a.m. to 8 p.m (Closed on Tuesdays)

Creek Park Gate 1
Umm Hurair Road

5. Dubai Global Village

Travel the world — without ever leaving Dubai. At the Dubai Global Village, you can take a stroll through the African pavilion, where you’ll be transported to the Serengeti and witness some exotic wildlife. Or visit the European pavilion to be immersed in a world of art and history. The complex also hosts incredible shows, including acrobatics, dance performances and concerts. And to get your shopping fix, there are over 3,500 outlets selling everything from local handicrafts to international brands.

Fun fact: The park’s largest attraction is a replica of the Taj Mahal, which stands 52 feet (16 meters) tall and weighs 3,000 tons.

Hours: 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. (Sunday to Wednesday, with Tuesdays for women and families only)
4 p.m. to 1 a.m. (Thursday to Saturday)

Sheikh Mohammed Bin Zayed Road

6. Dubai Miracle Garden

Get lost in the world of a fairy tale, where everything is covered in beautiful flowers. Dubai Miracle Garden is the biggest natural flower garden in the world, spreading over 775,000 square feet (72,000 square meters) and featuring 150 million flowers and plants. It’s an absolute paradise for those seeking to connect with nature — and for those who have always wanted to visit a Smurf village!

Fun fact: The flower arrangements change every season, and it takes over 200 people to plant and maintain the flowers throughout the year.

Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Monday to Friday)
9 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Saturday and Sunday)

Al Barsha South 3

7. Ain Dubai

Modeled after and inspired by the famous London Eye, Ain Dubai is the world’s tallest observation wheel, standing at a staggering height of 850 feet (260 meters). Marvel at the breathtaking views of Dubai as the capsule reaches the city’s highest point. Catch a glimpse of other places to visit in Dubai, including the Burj Khalifa, Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah Islands and more.

Fun fact: The observation wheel features 48 capsules that can each hold up to 40 people, offering a total capacity of 1,920 passengers at any given time.

(Note: At the time of publication, Ain Dubai was temporarily closed. Check to see if it has reopened yet.) 

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Tuesday and Wednesday)
12 p.m. to 9 p.m. (Thursday to Saturday)

Bluewaters Island

8. Bollywood Parks Dubai

Have you always dreamed of starring in a Bollywood musical? Well, now’s your chance! Bollywood Parks Dubai brings you the first amusement park dedicated exclusively to Indian films. As part of Dubai Parks and Resorts, you can visit various remakes of famous Bollywood movie sets like Lagaan, Sholay and Dabangg and take in a 4D movie experience or dance workshops while admiring the beautiful Indian décor.

Fun fact: The hot new ride is Ra.One – Unleashed, a virtual reality ride based on a popular superhero movie. Riders feel wind and water as they battle robots and villains alongside the film’s hero, G.One.

Hours: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Sunday to Thursday)

1 p.m. to 11 p.m. (Friday and Saturday)

Sheikh Zayed Road

9. Motiongate

Bollywood isn’t the only movie industry to inspire a theme park in Dubai; Hollywood has cast its spell as well at Motiongate. Also located within Dubai Park and Resorts, you can enjoy adrenaline-pumping rides and can meet Hollywood characters wandering around the park in zones affiliated with various production companies, including Columbia, Dreamworks and Lionsgate. Oh, and strangely enough, there’s a Smurf village here, too.

My favorite rides: the Green Hornet: High-Speed Chase and the Madagascar Mad Pursuit.

Fun fact: The park’s Zombieland Blast-off ride is the tallest freefall tower in the world, standing at 190 feet (58 meters) tall.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. (Sunday to Thursday)
11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Friday and Saturday)

Sheikh Zayed Road

10. Dubai Opera

Dubai is also home to high culture — and in my opinion, no trip here is complete without a visit to the Dubai Opera. Once again, it’s a marvel of design. Despite its name, the 2,000-seat theater literally transforms itself to play host to a wide variety of stunning world-class entertainment, including orchestras, musicals, ballets and lectures. 

Fun fact: The opera house’s iconic design was inspired by the traditional sailing vessels of the Arabian Gulf known as dhows. The building’s unique shape also transforms into a flat floor space for events other than operas.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard

Everything in Dubai is over-the-top. Bigger is better — and the attractions are no different.

In a city of superlatives, these are what I think are the best of the best. Have you noticed how everything is described as the world’s biggest such-and-such? And so many of these attractions are held indoors, away from the intense desert heat. Dubai leaves no chance for disappointment, and every visit to this gleaming metropolis is worthwhile. –Nishita Khanwani

Fábrica la Aurora: Textile Factory Turned Art and Design Center

A popular stop in San Miguel de Allende, the Fábrica la Aurora spins a new yarn as a complex filled with antique shops, galleries, artist studios and restaurants. 

La Fábrica la Aurora, an old textile factory, is a winding complex filled with art of all sorts.

San Miguel de Allende is a town with art in its DNA. There are galleries galore and shops full of colorful folk art. But we knew that one of the places we had to add to our itinerary was the Fábrica la Aurora. It just sounded so interesting: It’s a former textile mill that has been converted into a vibrant arts center. A remnant of Mexico’s industrial era, the factory was built at the turn of the 20th century and featured the best technology of the time. The complex operated for nearly 90 years producing percale (a fabric often used for bedsheets), muslin and flannel, before closing for good in 1991 — that is, until it was reimagined as an arts center in 2004.

We took one look at the mask wall at the front of Casa Michoacana and knew we had to go in.

Walk This Way: Shopping Stops on the Way to Fábrica la Aurora 

Whenever we can, we walk on foot in the cities we stay, and I’m especially glad we did so in SMA — otherwise we might have missed Casa Michoacana, an incredible shop filled with folk art that we passed on the way to the Fábrica. Many of the items here are made by artists from the state of Michoacán but also include a few from other regions of the country, too. You will find a collection of ceramic piñas of all sizes, multi-tiered candelabras, innumerable masks, wood carvings and more. The staff was patient and informative, and it was here that we found a variety of changos, black clay vessels used for storing mezcal in the shape of a monkey, and purchased one.

The owners also run the sister shop with the same name, a bit farther down, on the opposite side of the street. Look for the sign with two hands and an archway decorated with handpainted flowers.

“The renovation retains the building’s industrial character, with open spaces, concrete floors, high ceilings, steel casement windows, exposed pipes and more than a few industrial artifacts, including massive mechanical looms.”

We wanted to get this alebrije — but there’s only so much space in our home.

We did, though, find room to bring back a chango mezcalero!

As we walked along Calzada de la Aurora and crossed a puente (bridge), we paused to admire a carved Colonial-era Cantera stone cross. The crucifix features an INRI plaque at the top and so-called Arma Christi (Weapons of Christ), including glyphs of Christ’s face, a nail and a ladder — items linked with Christ’s crucifixion. 

If you walk to La Aurora, you’ll cross a bridge with this cross. It depicts the Arma Christi, the collection of artifacts related to the Passion of Christ.

Here’s your sign (literally) that you’ve arrived at La Fábrica la Aurora.

Art Park in front of La Fábrica la Aurora

Just a few minutes later, we passed an oxidized Cubist sculpture of four converging figures and a sign marking the entrance to Fábrica la Aurora. The park-like grounds contain additional sculptures, including Oso Grizzly by Francisco Esnayra, a striking work of art composed of a series of metal bands in the shape of a bear. It majestically stands in place on a patch of mulch amongst the trees, while the sculpture Looking for Balance by Rodrigo de la Sierra features a trio of his childlike Timoteo characters precariously balancing on an unsupported ladder. 

Oso Grizzly by Francisco Esnayra

Looking for Balance by Rodrigo de la Sierra

La Aurora’s historic façade includes its central archway with metal lettering and wrought iron gate.

The Dawn of a New Fold as an Art Makers Outpost

Most of the original structure of La Fábrica remains intact. Its brick façade is punctuated by Cantera stone arches, made from quarried volcanic rock. Its central entrance has a wrought iron gate and metal lettering spelling out “La Aurora” above. The arts and design center was founded by a quintet of creative forces: Francisco Garay, Christopher Fallon, Mary Rapp, Merry Calderoni and DeWayne Youts. In addition to showcasing local and expat artists’ works, there are also places to eat. A burger joint named El Grandpa & Son occupies one side of the front and can be seen through the aforementioned arches. There’s also a café called Geek & Coffee tucked away somewhere. We didn’t happen to stumble upon it during our visit — the complex is quite large and meandering. 

The front courtyard before you enter the sizable complex filled with galleries and studios.

The renovation retains the building’s industrial character, with open spaces, concrete floors, high ceilings, steel casement windows, exposed pipes and more than a few industrial artifacts, including massive mechanical looms that were used for the production of cloth from cotton. 

An industrial Zinser loom tucked among one of the galleries at La Fábrica la Aurora

Wandering the Maze of Fábrica la Aurora

The first shop we stopped into was Cantadora Antigüedades, which specializes in arte popular and ephemera from the 16th to 19th centuries. A figure depicting Jesus riding a donkey, possibly used during Easter week processions, stands outside the store entrance. 

By this time, Wally and I were both craving a snack, and the relaxed and casual open-air Café de la Aurora was the perfect spot. I tried a mango smoothie that incorporated a large dose of ruby red chamoy sauce, which was refreshing. If I had to describe the flavor, I would say that it was simultaneously sweet, spicy and tangy — the chile on the glass rim was a nice touch. What’s chamoy, you ask? The popular condiment is a combination of dried chiles, mangoes, apricots or plums and lime juice that’s added to flavor hard candy as well as drizzled on fruit. 

Just beyond the café, were the cutest vistas of potted plants arranged along the old factory wall.

Lotería imagery decorates this wall at La Fábrica la Aurora.

Can you see why Wally was obsessed with these vignettes?

One shop in the Fábrica, La Buhardilla, purchased a trove of items in 2004, including letters, sketches, paintings and clothing from an eccentric lawyer in Mexico City that were alleged to have once belonged to the surrealist Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. 

These artifacts are well-documented in the fascinating book Finding Frida Kahlo. The personal effects were said to have been originally acquired from Abraham Jiménez Lopez, a woodcarver who received them in lieu of payment for frames he had made for Kahlo. While many experts question their authenticity and say that the objects are fake, I’d like to believe that at least some of them are real. 

This kitty seemed to share our taste in art.

A modern-feeling wing of art galleries toward the back of La Fábrica

After resting and refueling, we ventured into another annex, where we saw a small black and white cat slinking through one of the galleries. We wandered into Manuk Galeria, which was founded by Mexican artist Lourdes Rivera. I suspect we were drawn to this gallery in particular because of its well-curated assortment of contemporary and folk art-inspired pieces.

Artwork on display at Manuk Galeria at the back portion of La Fábrica

While there, the compelling work titled Neblina (Fog), by self-taught artist Erik García Gómez, caught my eye. The painting features a stylized animal (pig? dog?) and spotted albino snakes. According to the artist’s bio, his main source of inspiration comes from the town he grew up in, San Cristóbal de las Casas, and memories of his grandmother, who was a village healer. 

Neblina by Erik García Gómez

A menagerie of heads from a sculpture workshop led by Juan Luis Potosí

The whimsical Travesías sin Rumba by Ernesto de la Peña Folch sits atop a pedestal outside CSEIS gallery. 

Italian for “the Spice,” Le Spezie lives up to its name — the spice of life, that is. This design shop features a mix of handicrafts from Mexico and other regions of the world. Colorful metal roosters, distressed painted furniture, sofas and accent cushions upholstered in colorful fabrics are all for sale here. Also of note is a range of industrial and hammered copper lighting fixtures. I especially liked the painted wood Kamadhenu, the wish-fulfilling Hindu cow goddess, sitting atop one of the cabinets. 

What’s not to love? The Kamadhenu is part woman, part cow, with the wings of an eagle and the tail of a peacock.

The last space Wally and I walked through was Rise, a store featuring the works of Argentine graphic designer Lucas Rise and a clothing line created by his wife and business partner, Giuliana Vastarella. Rendered in jewel-tone hues, his works have been digitally printed onto textiles, with a few resembling kaleidoscopic Rorschach tests. Rise works in a nontraditional manner by using cabinets as his canvas, combining geometric forms, each meticulously painted by hand. 

A steampunk-looking apparatus with oversized gears, a remnant of the textile factory, shares a space with Rise. 

Over the years, La Fábrica has expanded its galleries and studios as places where both national and international artists can create and sell their work. It’s a short distance from the historic center of San Miguel de Allende, and if you’re like the two of us, you can easily spend a fun afternoon going from one gallery to the next. –Duke

A statue of a rearing horse stands in the parking lot of the arts center.

Fábrica la Aurora

Calzada de la Aurora s/n
San Miguel de Allende
Guanajuato
Mexico 

 

An Insider’s Guide to Nantucket

Are you looking for things to do in Nantucket, Massachusetts? We cover the popular tourist attractions like the Whaling Museum and Brant Point Lighthouse as well as some of this charming island’s best-kept secrets — an icon of Mister Rogers, anyone? Also: the best Nantucket restaurants. 

For some strange reason, the Wampanoag Native Americans who lived on Nantucket gave it a name that alludes to it being a distant, desolate place. According to Britannica, it could even mean “sandy, sterile soil tempting no one”!

From stunning natural landscapes and beaches to must-see historical landmarks and quirky interior spaces, Nantucket, Massachusetts has it all. 

Here are my insider tips on the gems of Nantucket, an island in the Atlantic about 30 miles south of Cape Cod.

The island of Nantucket is 30 miles off the south coast of Cape Cod. It’s 14 miles long and three and a half miles wide.

Quick Tips for a Hassle-Free Nantucket Vacation

Keep in mind that this could be an expensive getaway: Things can be a bit pricey on the island.

One of the best ways to experience the Nantucket lifestyle is to rent a home during your stay.

Be sure to book your accommodation in advance, especially during the peak summer season. Vacation rental homes are a great option to get a feel for how locals live.

Why bring your car over when you can reach everything on a bike?

Choose your mode of transport. You can get to the island either by plane or ferry. Once there, I’ve found that the most satisfactory way to tour this exquisite island is by bike. Of course, you can bring your car, but it’ll cost you about $400-$450 to do so. I suggest renting a bike at Nantucket Bike Shop. Cycling is a great way to see the sights and exercise at the same time. Besides, there are numerous bike trails on the island.

8 Top Attractions on Nantucket

Nantucket is home to many gems, including secluded beaches, secret gardens and hidden coves. Here are my favorite spots:

Greater Light, a historic home in Nantucket, has become a cultural center and wedding venue.

1. Greater Light

Gertrude and Hanna Monaghan, two artistic sisters, had come to Nantucket because of its growing creative community. In the summer of 1929, the Monaghan sisters were taking in the city's vibrant art scene when they stumbled upon a herd of cattle. They followed the herd until it took a U-turn at Howard Street and entered a 140-year-old barn. The siblings were fascinated with the dilapidated structure. They discovered it was owned by the town grocer, William Holland, and they convinced him to sell it to them. 

The siblings named the barn Greater Light after the Bible verse Genesis 1:16: “God made two great lights — the greater light to govern the day and the lesser light to govern the night.” They began turning the barn into a light-filled summer home and filled it with architectural artifacts and an eclectic mix of furnishings. If you want to experience the emotional vibe of the town, this is the place to be.

Insider’s Tip: Greater Light is accessible to the general public from May to October. It’s a 10-minute walk from the town center. In addition to being a popular wedding venue, numerous events, including book signings, concerts and lectures, are held on the renovated property. For the most current schedule, visit the Nantucket Historical Association website.

Greater Light
8 Howard Street

Could someone just make this man a saint already? The icon of Mister Rogers at St. Paul’s.

2. Mister Rogers Portrait at St. Paul’s Church

Some people would indeed consider Mister Rogers a saint; they’d find it fitting that he’s an idol at St. Paul’s Church. Before he became a beloved children’s television icon, Rogers studied to be a Presbyterian preacher. 

He spent the summers on Nantucket with his family, residing in the Madaket neighborhood on the island's west side. He and his family attended St. Paul’s Episcopal Church on Fair Street. 

A local artist, Julie Dunbar, painted a tribute to Mister Rogers’ legacy as an honored parishioner and a well-known friend to many. Pop into the church, identifiable by its beautiful Tiffany stained glass windows, to see this quirky icon bearing the words “Gentle, Kind + True.”

Insider’s Tip: While the church is open to visitors, check to see if it happens to be closed for exclusive services and activities.

St. Paul’s Epsicopal Church
20 Fair Street

The 46-foot-long skeleton of a sperm whale that died in 1998 hangs from the ceiling. Check out those chompers — a testament to the dangers of the whaling profession.

3. The Whaling Museum

Once known as the whaling capital of the world, Nantucket has a historic whaling district, and the museum is housed in a former whaling captain’s house. The Whaling Museum was established in 1929 and is among the oldest naval museums in the United States. 

The Whaling Museum in Nantucket

Its gallery has a collection of over 1,000 artifacts, including a sperm whale skeleton and a whaleboat. The museum also has a library and archives with over 500 books, maps and manuscripts. 

Insider’s Tip: The museum is open year-round and offers various educational schedules for adults and children. Hopefully you’ll get a guide as colorful as Emily Gilmore on The Gilmore Girls. And be sure to climb the spiral staircase (or take the elevator) up to Tucker’s Roofwalk for a panoramic view of the harbor — where the captain’s wife might once have kept an anxious lookout for the return of her husband’s ship.

The Whaling Museum
13 Broad Street

Brant Point Lighthouse is one of three to see in Nantucket. Look for the American flag on its side.

4. The Lighthouses 

Nantucket has three lovely lighthouses, all of which are well worth a visit:

Brant Point Lighthouse is near the city at the end of Easton Street and is the ideal location to view the sunset or sunrise. Its white stairway and American flag painted on its side make it easy to spot.

Great Point Lighthouse is in a wildlife reserve at the northern tip of the island.

Arriving at Great Point Lighthouse is slightly more complicated since the light is on sandy land. Hire a four-wheel drive if you don’t have one. The trip can be backbreaking, so bring a picnic lunch to eat and get reenergized. 

Sankaty Head Lighthouse stands 70 feet tall at the easternmost point on Nantucket, flashing its light every 7.5 seconds

With its distinctive white and sandy red stripe design, Sankaty Head Lighthouse could be the most outstanding lighthouse on Nantucket. The light is on Baxter Road, but on a clear day, you will see it miles away in every direction. 

Insider’s Tip: The lighthouses are open from  9 a.m. to 6 p.m. all year round. For Great Point, you’ll need an oversand vehicle permit. 

Pay homage to Maria Mitchell by stargazing at the Loines Observatory.

5. Maria Mitchell Association

Maria Mitchell was raised on the island and was a Quaker with a passion for astronomy. She channeled her passions into a spectacular career as America’s first female astronomer. She established the Maria Mitchell Association, Nantucket’s only scientific organization.

The association has plenty to see: an aquarium, the historic 1800s Quaker house Mitchell lived in and a natural science museum, in addition to a series of scientific speakers.

The Historic Mitchell House, where the first female U.S. astronomer lived.

Insider’s Tip: Nantucket has long been famous for its meticulous craft of scrimshaw and historic whaler voyages. But in the 19th century, Mitchell added a curious new chapter to the history of this small island. Honor her legacy by stargazing at the Loines Observatory. The Vestal Street Observatory is currently closed for conservation.

Maria Mitchell Association
33 Washington Street

The Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum

6. Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum

The charitable Egan Maritime Institute runs this museum, which shares the stories of local shipwrecks and the brave rescuers who put their lives in danger to save drowning seamen. 

The building, constructed in 1968, features the design of the traditional stations run by the U.S. Life-Saving Service. It’s the earliest museum devoted to maritime lifesaving and safety history. Its hours of operation are Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. The entrance fee includes a tour guide.

Insider’s Tip: Keep in mind that Nantucket is a seasonal destination, and many places, like this museum, are only open part of the year, closing in the fall and winter. A 15-minute journey down Polpis Road will take you to the museum, which is three miles east of town. But you can also catch the Shipwreck Shuttle from the visitors bureau at 25 Federal Street every half hour starting at 9:30 a.m., returning from the museum on the hour, with the last ride at 5 p.m.), Monday through Saturday from May 30 through October 10.

Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum
158 Polpis Road

You have to get on the water during every stay in Nantucket.

7. The Harbor

When in Nantucket…

Sailing around the harbor is the perfect afternoon pastime and can take you into the evening to enjoy the most splendid sunset in Nantucket. You’ve got plenty of choices: tugboats, larger whale-viewing cruises and swanky schooners. Many offer two-hour rides that head around Brant Point Lighthouse. 

Insider’s Tip: Shearwater Excursions offers the Ice Cream Cruise, where you can enjoy not only a scenic tour but also its namesake treat. But my favorite thing to do is rent a tugboat for the late afternoon, where you can bring cocktails to sip and have some snacks (perhaps a charcuterie board). 

Catch your dinner on a fishing charter into the Atlantic Ocean.

8. Fishing Zones

Nantucket has a large population of game fish, and the best time to go fishing is from May to November. A suitable spot is the south bay between Nantucket Harbor and Great Point. But you can also try your luck near the Sankaty Head Lighthouse. Additionally, the harbor offers dedicated charters for catching large game fish like mahi mahi, marlin and tuna.  

Insider’s Tip: Waves can be intense — even deadly — so make sure you find a pro and ask for the safest times to get on the water. 

Straight Wharf Restaurant

Where to Eat in Nantucket

From fresh seafood to classic New England fare, there’s something for everyone to enjoy on this beautiful island.

For seafood lovers, the Straight Wharf Restaurant is a must-visit. The spot is well known for its fresh, local seafood and harbor views.

Head to the Wauwinet hotel to dine at Topper’s.

Head to Topper’s at the Wauwinet hotel to taste classic New England cuisine. This elegant restaurant is known for its delicious lobster dishes, as well as its stunning views of the ocean. 

Get your New England staples and some good beer at the Nantucket Tap Room at the historic Jared Coffin House.

The Nantucket Tap Room at the Jared Coffin House is an excellent alternative for a more casual dining experience. This historic inn’s tavern offers a cozy atmosphere and classic dishes like clam chowder and fish and chips.

Other good restaurants to try include:

• Millie’s: Seafood

• Cisco Brewers: Great outdoor area for local beers and food trucks

• Cru: Rosé and oysters 

• Provisions: Sandwiches (try the Turkey Terrific or BLT)

• The Downyflake: Doughnuts

• The Juice Bar: Ice cream

Heads up: The popular spot Black-Eyed Susan’s seems to be closed for good. But no matter your mood, you’ll uncover plenty of places to feast in Nantucket.

Smaller than Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket offers a quaint New England getaway.

The Ideal New England Getaway

Nantucket is a small island with a big reputation. It’s a popular summer tourist destination, thanks to its picturesque hangout spots and plenty of outdoor activities. Moreover, the locals are warm and welcoming, guaranteeing you have a great time. As far as I’m concerned, the island is the perfect New England getaway. –Christine Cooper