castles

Beyond Paris: Travel to Lesser-Known France

The most underrated places in France: Nantes, Amiens and Rennes — where mechanical elephants, floating gardens and medieval wonders await your next adventure.

Porte Saint-Pierre in Nantes

Sure, Paris is the City of Love, the place where couples smooch along the Seine. But if you think France is just pain au chocolat, promenades and Paris, you’re just scratching the surface. Once you’ve marveled at the must-sees and taken more Eiffel selfies than your Instagram can handle, it’s time to move beyond Paris into the France that doesn’t always make it into the guidebooks.

The Eiffel Tower with the city of Paris spread out before it

We’re not saying you should skip Paris — there are just some hidden gems you should also check out.

First Up: Gay Paree

Of course, any trip to France is worth a stop-off in Paris. The first rule? Don’t be in a rush. Paris is a city meant to be savored — one street, one café, one perfect pastry at a time. 

Begin your journey on foot, meandering through boulevards filled with the smell of fresh bread, the buzz of busy terraces and architecture that just might be older than your country. 

Once you’re ready to kick things up a notch, switch over to the Métro or tram — the real Parisian way to get around. Sure, you could opt for taxis or ride-shares, but you’d be missing the electric hum of everyday life on the city’s veins.

Of course, you’ll want to plan ahead. If you want to visit the Louvre, don’t even think about showing up without pre-booked tickets. Skip the epic queues and head straight into the thick of it. 

Or, if you’re craving a bit more underworld mystique, take the plunge into the Catacombs of Paris — a dark, fascinating corner of the city. 

And for the romantics, the Eiffel Tower may be free to admire from below, but if you want to climb up, save yourself time (and foot cramps) by booking your tickets in advance.

People hang out under a tree in the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris, France

Jardin des Tuileries

Picnics, Cruises and Prepping for the Great Escape

Before you say your final “au revoir” to Paris, it’s time to embrace the most Parisian of pastimes: picnicking in a garden. Pack up a basket with a crusty baguette, some fancy cheese, and a bottle of rosé — this is France, after all. Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Jardin des Tuileries and Luxembourg Gardens are the perfect spots to recharge. 

But Paris is just the beginning. Once you’ve ticked off the iconic sights, why not step into the real adventure — those lesser-known spots where the crowds thin and the charm thickens. Take a road trip or hop on a train, and dive into the countryside, where France has some seriously under-the-radar gems waiting for you.

Here’s your guide to three fascinating cities that will make your trip to France unforgettable.

Nantes: The City of Innovation and Imagination

If there’s a city where imagination runs wild, it’s Nantes. Perched along the Loire River, this historic gem was once the bustling capital of Brittany and a powerhouse of trade and commerce. Fast forward to today, and Nantes has reinvented itself as a vibrant playground for artists, engineers and visionaries — where creativity isn’t just encouraged, it’s celebrated at every turn.

Giant mechanical steampunk elephant at Les Machine de l'Ile in Nantes, France

Must-See Attractions in Nantes

Les Machines de l’Île: A fantastical world inspired by Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci, this is one of Nantes’ most famous attractions. Here, you’ll find mechanical animals, including the iconic 40-foot-tall elephant that you can ride as it lumbers through the streets.

White facade of the Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne in Nantes, France

Château des Ducs de Bretagne: This 13th century castle is a key part of Nantes’ history. Once the seat of the dukes of Brittany, it now houses a museum that tells the story of the city’s past, including its shameful role in the transatlantic slave trade.

Les Anneaux de Pouvoir (Buren), colored rings of light on l'Ile de Nantes, in Nantes, France

Les Anneaux (The Rings) on l’Île de Nantes

Île de Nantes: The island at the heart of the city is a blend of modern art installations, restaurants and waterfront paths. You’ll find sculptures that pop up in unexpected places, and the island is a symbol of Nantes’ artistic resurgence.

Quai Belu, with quaint buildings along the water, in Amiens, France

Amiens: France’s Hidden Medieval Treasure

Perhaps Amiens hasn’t made your radar yet — but trust me, it’s one of France’s best-kept secrets, far from the touristy throngs most people associate with a trip to France. Nestled in the Haut-de-France region in the north, Amiens is divided by the River Somme and boasts a blend of charm, history and, yes, some seriously Instagrammable spots. If you’re hunting for a place to grab some mouthwatering French cuisine or buy a perfectly aged bottle of wine, the shops and cafés along Quartier St.-Leu’s narrow, cobbled streets are practically begging you to stop by.

Now, here’s the kicker: Amiens is ridiculously budget-friendly. Sure, France has a rep for being on the pricey side, especially if you’re staying where all the iconic sites are. But in Amiens? You can snag top-tier hotels without emptying your wallet. So while you might be pinching pennies in hostels across Paris or Marseilles, Amiens is where you treat yourself to a touch of luxury. Balance, my friends. Amiens is the city that gets it.

The front of Amiens Cathedral in Amiens, France

Must-See Attractions in Amiens

Amiens Cathedral: This Gothic masterpiece is one of the largest churches in the world and boasts intricate carvings and towering spires. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s known for its exceptional beauty. The cathedral’s façade was originally painted in vibrant colors. Over time, the paint wore away, leaving the stone we see today. During the summer, a light show recreates these original rainbow hues.

A couple rows a small green boat through Les Hortillonnages, the floating gardens in Amiens, France

Les Hortillonnages: These floating gardens are situated on a network of canals and have been cultivated since the Middle Ages. You can explore them by boat, winding through the greenery and flower-filled gardens that seem worlds away from the city streets.

A closeup of the exterior of the Maison de Jules Verne in Amiens, France, with the tower and some floral tilework

Maison de Jules Verne: While Verne was born in Nantes, he spent much of his life in Amiens, where he wrote some of his famous novels. His former home is now a museum that gives visitors a glimpse into his world and imagination.

Timbered houses along a river in Rennes, France

Rennes: Medieval Meets Modern

In the final stop on our tour of underrated French gems, the road less traveled takes us to Rennes, the capital of Brittany, where history and modernity collide in the best way possible. What sets Rennes apart? Picture medieval half-timbered houses lining the streets, right alongside the imposing grandeur of the cathedral. It’s like stepping into a time machine — but with better coffee.

People in the courtyard of the Parlement de Bretagne in Rennes, France

Must-See Attractions in Rennes

Parlement de Bretagne: Once the seat of the Brittany parliament, this grand building is a must-see for history buffs. It survived a major fire in the 1990s and was carefully restored. Guided tours give visitors a glimpse into the past and the intricate artwork inside.

Roses of all colors along a path leading to red-topped buildings in the Thabor Gardens in Rennes, France

Thabor Gardens: One of France’s most beautiful public parks, the Thabor Gardens span 25 acres (10 hectares) and include a French garden, English garden, rose garden and aviary. It’s the perfect spot for a quiet escape after a day of sightseeing.

White walls and a glass-covered ceiling in a room with a giant white ring in the Musee des Beaux-Arts in Rennes, France

Musée des Beaux-Arts: Art lovers will feel right at home in this museum, which boasts works from European masters like Rubens, Botticelli and Picasso. The museum’s collection covers everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts to modern art.

The Rennes Opera House

France off the Beaten Path

France is so much more than Paris. By stepping off the beaten path and exploring places like Nantes, Amiens and Rennes, you’ll not only escape the tourist crowds but will also discover the true heart of the country. It’s in the untapped corners, the quiet lanes and the lesser-known wonders. As they say: Life is about the adventures you take and the memories you make. –Sadie Smith

The Alcazaba, the Fierce Fortress of the Alhambra

Tour the towers of the defensive outpost perched above the charming city of Granada in the South of Spain.

Start your tour of the Alhambra with the Generalife gardens and the Alcazaba fortress.

Start your tour of the Alhambra with the Generalife gardens and the Alcazaba fortress.

With the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada as a backdrop, it’s easy to see why the monumental fortress palace of the Alhambra is one of the most visited monuments in Spain, second only to the Sagrada Família in Barcelona. 

The complex of buildings was fittingly recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, and served as residence to the Islamic sultanates of the Iberian Peninsula. Muslims ruled the region from the 11th to 15th century, until conquered by the Catholic monarchy in 1492. The Alhambra’s name comes from the Arabic al-Qal’at al-Hamra, or Red Fortress, owing to the reddish color of the clay-rich soil of the al-Sabika Hill ridge, where it rises from the terrain. That same ochre soil was used in the rammed, or compressed, earth brick walls of this impressive complex. 

A fortress doesn’t do any good if you simply open its doors to invaders.

But that’s exactly what King Boabdil did, after his fellow Muslims had ruled the region for nearly 700 years.
Touring the Alcazaba and the rest of the Alhambra made for a birthday Wally will never forget!

Touring the Alcazaba and the rest of the Alhambra made for a birthday Wally will never forget!

After literally taking time to stop and smell the roses in the gardens of the Generalife, we made our way to the Alcazaba, the fortress that once guarded the palace. We had booked our tickets for a guided tour (about 46€) months before, and a small group of ill-mannered and boisterous British tourists were part of our entourage. One of them was a doddering old man named Leslie, who frequently strayed from the group, and whose companions could be heard incessantly shouting, “Leslie! Leslie, come here!” to reel him back in. 

This is Leslie, wandering off again. “Leslie! Get back here!”

This is Leslie, wandering off again. “Leslie! Get back here!”

Plaza de los Aljibes, the Square of the Cisterns

Our group arrived at the Plaza de los Aljibes, the Square of the Cisterns, built after the Christian victory. The broad open space got its name from the underground cisterns built to collect rainwater below the square because the new occupants didn’t understand the complexities of the water channels the Arab engineers had created, leaving the aqueducts to fall into disrepair. Off to one side of the square lie the Nasrid Palaces, to the other, the Alcazaba.

The entrance to the Alcazaba, built by Muhammad I, the first sultan of the Nasrid dynasty

The entrance to the Alcazaba, built by Muhammad I, the first sultan of the Nasrid dynasty

The Alcazaba Fortress

The austere military enclosure of the Alcazaba fortress is strategically positioned at the summit of the westernmost end of the monumental site, overlooking the city of Granada. Its construction is attributed to Muhammad I (who reigned from 1238-1273), the founder of the Nasrid dynasty. A stark contrast to the opulent and residential Nasrid Palaces, its primary function was to shield its inhabitants from external attacks. 

The separations in the defensive wall allowed archers to fire at invaders.

The separations in the defensive wall allowed archers to fire at invaders.

Of the whole set of structures within the Alhambra, the Alcazaba is the oldest. The north-facing walls were built atop the remains of a 9th century castle constructed for the Zirid dynasty, who were Berbers from Algeria, and incorporated into the foundation walls. Here, Muhammad I strengthened the enclosure walls and constructed three of its 30 imposing towers. Our group entered the fortress from the plaza through a doorway cut into the high east-facing wall. 

Torre del Homenaje, the Tribute Tower

Located at the northeast corner of the perimeter wall is the keep, known as the Torre del Homenaje, which could be translated as the Tribute Tower or the Tower of Homage. It’s one of the highest of the Alhambra and was strategically the most important, as it served both defensive and offensive purposes. The upright crenellated “teeth,” aka the battlements along the top of the tower, protected sentries from attacks and allowed them to fire arrows at intruders. Throughout its history, the tower served many functions, including as royal residence to Muhammad I and as a prison during the Christian occupation. 

The towers of the Alcazaba, the Torre de la Vela in particular, provide great views of the white city of Granada below.

The towers of the Alcazaba, the Torre de la Vela in particular, provide great views of the white city of Granada below.

Torre de la Vela, the Watchtower

The Torre de la Vela, the Watchtower, defiantly perches on the far west end of the hill, where the previously mentioned modest Zirid castle once stood. It served as a watchtower, and the interior consists of four floors plus the terrace and a subterranean dungeon—a kind of command center in the middle of the fortress. 

Wally and I climbed the narrow staircase to the top to take in the panoramic bird’s-eye view of the rolling Andalusian hills and Albaicín, Granada’s Moorish neighborhood. The terrace is crowned by a bell tower, added by the Christian kings in the 18th century, which was used to signal significant news to the general populace. 

There are many thoughts on the origin of its name. The literal translation of the word vela is “candle,” but one theory posits that the bell was brought from Castil de Vela, a municipality located in the province of Palencia. Then again, it could be connected to the verb desvelar, which means to keep awake, possibly referring to the sounding bell and its ability to awaken anyone below from slumber. In any event, the bell is rung every January 2 to celebrate the taking of Granada from the Muslim sultans.

The Alcazaba at the Alhambra is cool to tour — but just wait till you see the ornate Nasrid Palaces!

The Alcazaba at the Alhambra is cool to tour — but just wait till you see the ornate Nasrid Palaces!

Torre Quebrada, the Broken Tower

This imposing monolithic tower stands within the shadow of the Torre de la Vela. I couldn’t find any specifics as to how it acquired its name, but one could presume that it suffered from seismic activity, or Napoleon's army, which decided to inflict damage by blowing up a few of the towers when they withdrew from the palace, petty and bitter at having lost the Peninsular War, which took place from 1808-1814. 

Visitors had to leave their weapons at the Puerta de las Armas.

Visitors had to leave their weapons at the Puerta de las Armas.

Puerta de las Armas, the Gate of Arms

Originally, the Bab al-Silas, or Puerta de las Armas, the Gate of Arms, functioned as the populace’s primary entrance. The doorway probably got its name from its associated use: Visitors were stopped and required to leave their weapons behind before gaining access. 

Part of the Plaza de las Armas contains the ruins of the Barrio Castrense, the foundations of the residential dwellings for the royal guard and soldiers needed for the defense of the sultan. 

The foundations of the military quarters can still be seen in the Plaza de la Armas.

The foundations of the military quarters can still be seen in the Plaza de la Armas.

The Surrender of Granada by Francisco Pradilla y Ortiz, 1882, shows poor Baobdil turning over the keys to Granada to Ferdinand and Isabella.

The Surrender of Granada by Francisco Pradilla y Ortiz, 1882, shows poor Baobdil turning over the keys to Granada to Ferdinand and Isabella.

Letting the Catholics In

A fortress doesn’t do you any good if you simply open its doors to invaders. But that’s exactly what King Boabdil did, after his fellow Muslims had ruled the region for nearly 700 years. 

On January 2, 1492, Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella of Castile ceremoniously entered Granada, curiously in Muslim dress. They set up court in the Alhambra declaring it a Casa Real, or royal residence. One of their first orders of business? Declaring that all Jews and Muslims had to convert to Catholicism or leave the country. –Duke