Why Motorbike Tours Are a Great Way to Explore Vietnam

Explore Vietnam’s stunning landscapes and vibrant culture with the freedom of a motorbike tour along iconic routes like Ho Chi Minh Road and Ha Giang Loop.

Imagine the wind rushing through your hair as your motorbike weaves through lush rice paddies, the scent of fresh rain hanging in the air. You hear the distant hum of life in the countryside — children laughing, roosters crowing, water buffalo lazily grazing in the fields. 

As you round a bend, the scenery transforms into towering limestone cliffs draped in mist, with a sparkling river winding its way through the valley below. There’s a sense of freedom you’ve never experienced before, a feeling that only Vietnam, with its mix of untamed beauty and vibrant culture, can offer. This is more than just a tour; it’s a journey that connects you with the land, the people and the raw essence of adventure.

“Motorbiking through Vietnam offers a sense of freedom you’ve never experienced before, a feeling that only this country, with its mix of untamed beauty and vibrant culture, can offer. ”

Let’s be real — nothing beats tearing through a country on two wheels, and Vietnam? It’s a motorbiker’s dream. Ditch the cramped buses and cookie-cutter itineraries. Out here, it’s just you, the open road and views that will make you forget to blink. Whether you’re gunning for adrenaline or craving a quiet moment with nature, Vietnam motorbike tours are the ultimate way to soak it all in. The road becomes your playground, and suddenly, the journey itself is the whole point.

The Freedom of a Motorbike Tour

Motorbike tours give you something that other travel options just can’t: freedom. There’s no better way to explore Vietnam than setting your own pace, deciding where to stop and changing your route on a whim. Feeling hungry? Pull over at a street food stall and grab a steaming bowl of pho. Need a break? Find a scenic spot by a river and just take it all in. The beauty of motorbike tours is the flexibility to experience Vietnam exactly how you want to. 

Beyond the logistics, there’s a connection to your surroundings that’s impossible to achieve in a car or bus. You’re not watching the world pass by through a window — you’re in it. The scent of fresh rain, the sound of the wind and the sight of rice paddies stretching out for miles — it’s all right there, pulling you deeper into the adventure. From the towering mountains to the coastal roads that hug the sea, each twist and turn of the road reveals something new, and you get to experience it firsthand.

Let’s not forget the thrill. Vietnam’s roads offer a mix of smooth highways and rugged dirt tracks, making each ride a mini adventure. It’s not always easy — there are challenges like winding mountain paths and unpredictable traffic — but that’s part of what makes it so exciting. You’re in control, and every ride feels like a victory.

Popular Routes for Vietnam Motorbike Tours

If you’re planning a motorbike tour in Vietnam, there are a few iconic routes you won’t want to miss. Each one offers its own unique charm, taking you through some of the country’s most breathtaking landscapes and cultural hotspots.

The Ho Chi Minh Road is a favorite among riders. Stretching from north to south, this road runs parallel to the coast and takes you deep into Vietnam’s countryside. Along the way, you’ll pass through dense forests, quiet villages and historic sites, making it a great way to get a feel for the real Vietnam. For history buffs, this route holds special significance as it follows the path used during the Vietnam War.

Another must-ride route is the Hai Van Pass — often called one of the most beautiful coastal roads in the world. With hairpin turns and panoramic views of the coastline, this route is both thrilling and stunning. It connects the cities of Hue and Da Nang, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty and local culture.

And then there’s the Ha Giang Loop, a route that takes you to the remote northern mountains of Vietnam. This area is less touristy and offers some of the most dramatic landscapes you’ll ever see. The towering limestone peaks, deep valleys and traditional hill tribe villages will make you feel like you’ve stepped into another world. If you’re up for an adventure, this is where you’ll find it.

Vietnam by Motorbike: Must-Stops Along the Way

One of the best parts of a motorbike tour is the ability to stop wherever you like. There’s no schedule to follow, and that’s exactly what makes the journey so magical. Vietnam is full of must-see spots, and here are a few you should add to your list.

First up, Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to some of the most impressive caves in the world, including the enormous Son Doong Cave. Whether you’re an adventure seeker or just looking to marvel at nature, this stop will leave you speechless.

Next, the charming town of Hoi An is a must-visit. With its lantern-lit streets and ancient architecture, this riverside town feels like stepping back in time. Take a stroll through its narrow streets, grab a banh mi from a street vendor or even get a custom-tailored suit made — Hoi An has something for everyone.

For a more off-the-beaten-path experience, the Dong Van Karst Plateau in Ha Giang offers jaw-dropping views of Vietnam’s northern highlands. You’ll ride through rugged mountains, visit hill tribe villages and soak in views that look like something out of a painting. It’s remote, raw and absolutely unforgettable.

Top Tips for Planning Your Vietnam Motorbike Adventure

Ready to hit the road? Before you rev up your engine, here are a few tips to help make your motorbike tour of Vietnam as smooth as possible.

Choose the right bike. 

Not all motorbikes can handle Vietnamese trails, and choosing the right one is key to a smooth ride. For beginners or casual riders, a scooter is easier to handle, especially in Vietnam’s busy cities. If you’re more experienced and want to go off-road, a reliable manual bike offers better control, particularly on rugged terrain. Whichever you choose, always test the bike before hitting the road.

Get your paperwork in order.

Riding a motorbike in Vietnam requires more than just the desire for thrills — you’ll need the proper paperwork. Make sure to carry an international driving permit (IDP), along with your home country’s driving license. 

In addition, make sure you have the necessary insurance coverage in case of accidents or damage. Some rental companies offer temporary insurance, but it’s always good to double-check.

Pack smart.

When you’re riding for long hours, packing light is essential. Opt for a small backpack that fits comfortably on your bike, and focus on essentials: a raincoat, layers for cooler mountain temperatures, a good pair of gloves, sunscreen and plenty of water. Always have a map or GPS handy, even if you’re relying on your phone, as rural areas can have spotty service. Remember to bring a first aid kit for minor injuries or bike repairs.

Plan your route — but stay flexible.

Having a general idea of where you want to go is smart, especially for long-distance tours. However, part of the fun of motorbike travel is being spontaneous. Don’t be afraid to veer off course and explore hidden gems. Vietnam is full of surprises — whether it’s a stunning viewpoint, a local festival or a charming village, sometimes the best moments come when you least expect them.

Respect the weather.  

Vietnam’s weather can be unpredictable, especially during the rainy season. Keep an eye on the forecast and be prepared to change plans if necessary. Riding in heavy rain or foggy mountain passes can be dangerous, so it’s better to wait out bad weather or take a rest day. If you’re heading into the mountains, be aware that temperatures can drop, so pack warmer layers, even if it’s hot in the lowlands.

Stay safe and ride smart.  

Riding in Vietnam, especially in cities like Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh, can be chaotic. Take it slow, stay alert and always wear your helmet. Follow local traffic rules and be prepared for unpredictable drivers or sudden obstacles. It’s important to remain calm and patient, particularly in busy areas. In more remote regions, keep an eye out for road conditions that can change suddenly — be it potholes, gravel or livestock crossing the road!

Feel the Thrill of the Open Road

At the heart of a motorbike tour in Vietnam is the sense of freedom. There’s nothing like feeling the wind on your face, the rumble of the engine beneath you, and the endless horizon stretching out ahead. You’re not just seeing the sights — you’re part of them. You can stop whenever something catches your eye, whether it’s a bustling market or a hidden waterfall, and that’s what makes motorbike travel so special.

Riding through Vietnam isn’t just about getting from point A to point B; it’s about the journey itself. Every road has a story to tell, from the quiet countryside to the bustling city streets. It’s the thrill of navigating new terrain, the excitement of discovering a place that few have ventured, and the satisfaction of knowing that you made this journey happen.

So, if you’re looking for an unforgettable way to explore Vietnam, hop on a motorbike and hit the open road. Whether you’re riding through misty mountains or along sun-soaked beaches, you’ll experience Vietnam in a way that will stay with you long after the trip is over. –Amy Fischer

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If you’re looking for an adventure, check out Explore Indochina motorbike tours, which are the perfect way to immerse yourself in Vietnam’s history and beautiful nature.

Mystical, Magical Ha Long Bay

The otherworldly Bay of the Descending Dragon and Hang Sung Sot Cave are a don’t-miss day trip from Hanoi.

The boats that ply the waters of Ha Long Bay are modern takes on Chinese junks.

If it hadn’t been for the typhoon, we would never have visited Ha Long Bay. 

We were planning on spending a couple of days in Hanoi, then heading down to Central Vietnam to visit Hoi An, which everyone we spoke to gushed about, calling it the prettiest town they’ve been to. 

The problem, though, was that a horrific tropical cyclone had swept across from the Philippines, leaving Hoi An 10 feet underwater. Needless to say, we worried a waterlogged town wouldn’t be as charming, so we decided to stay in Hanoi for this portion of our trip. 

“I know it sounds as if I’m being overly dramatic, but when we were out there, with no one else in sight, as the deep darkness of nature encroached, we felt utterly helpless.”

We added a day trip to the Perfume Pagoda as well as an overnight boat ride on Ha Long Bay. One look at the pictures of this mystical-looking locale, the rock formations peeking out of the water, wrapped in an ethereal mist, and we were hooked. 

Through our hotel, the Prince II in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, we arranged an overnight excursion on Ha Long Bay. The tourist boats that ply the waters are modeled on Chinese junks, with their distinctive sails that unfurl like handheld fans. The real deal once sailed upon the bay.

Duke and Wally were glad that they ended up having more time in Northern Vietnam to take an overnight excursion on Ha Long Bay.

The boat operators assured us we would want a hat to protect us from the sun, so I caved and bought a coppery cowboy hat (a genuine Vietnamese article, I’m sure). I spent much of the second morning on the top deck, writing in my journal and resting with the cowboy hat over my face.

Wally takes a nap on the top deck with his stylin’ new cowboy hat.

Aside from Duke, our travel buddy Vanessa and me, there were two Chinese couples sharing our boat, which had a name that translated to Sea Pearl 6. The one bummer was that they ran out of double berths, so Duke and I had to sleep in a small stateroom with twin beds.

Ahoy, mateys! All aboard the Sea Pearl 6!

Despite there being quite a few other tourboats out on the bay, they disappeared behind the rock outcroppings and it didn’t feel crowded.

Of course we kept singing a riff on the U2 song: “Ha Long… Ha Long must we sing this song?”

Now and then, a woman in a rowboat loaded up with snacks would pull up alongside our boat, calling out, “Coca Cola! Snickers! Coca Cola! Snickers!” This became another refrain of the trip.

The rocks that dot the bay are said to be the undulating body of a dragon, peeking up from the depths.

The Legend of Ha Long Bay

As with many Vietnamese words, the bay is spelled variably as two words or mushed together as Halong. (In fact, the official name of the country is Việt Nam.)

Ha Long means “Dragon Descending,” and our guide told us how a dragon came down from the sky, plunging into the Gulf of Tonkin. Some of the numerous islets were formed when it lashed its tail, and others are its offspring, peeking their undulating bodies out of the water.

Although we didn’t spot anyone with scales or tails, the Vietnamese people believe themselves to be descended from dragons.

Others tell a version of the legend of Ha Long Bay that’s more elaborate.

No matter its origin, there’s something otherworldly about this bay of over 1,000 small limestone islands. Despite the jagged formations, greenery somehow finds a way to root itself, covering the outcroppings and helping with the illusion that these are humps of a snakelike dragon’s body.

Wally and Vanessa pretend to be in a Scooby-Doo episode as they descend into Hang Sung Sot, the Cave of Surprises.

Hang Sung Sot, the Cave of Surprises — and Its Cock Rock

Our first stop on the trip was to a massive cave complex, Hang Sung Sot, which translates as Most Surprising Cave or Cave of Surprises. It got its name from what the French called the island, Île de la Surprise.

Duke and Wally, sweaty but happy, in the massive cave complex in Ha Long Bay

Ladies and gentlemen, the fantastical fertility phallus, the legendary Cock Rock!

It was immense, like a theme park ride, and puts other caves I’ve explored to shame. We wandered through three chambers of karst, or eroded limestone, lit up with colored lights. The highlight was a rock formation undeniably shaped like a glowing pinkish orange erection. Not surprisingly, locals believe this phallic formation possesses powers of fertility.

The bay is mostly empty, aside from tourboats and the odd floating structure.

Nearly Killed in a Kayak

We stopped at the local “village” — really just a series of wooden pallets floating on the water, supporting small structures, painted happy shades of blue or yellow, where you could buy supplies. There were square sections in one section of the village that were used as mini-ponds to raise fish.

A waterborne snack vessel alongside tourboats for daytrippers

We rented kayaks here and headed off for an adventure. Duke and I decided that we’d do a two-seater, which turned out to be a complete mistake. We just couldn’t get into a rhythm and kept going off course.

Utterly frustrated, I muttered, “We’d be terrible on The Amazing Race. Next time we get our own kayaks.”

We stopped at a floating “village” to get snacks and to take kayaks out for a fateful excursion.

At first our entire group was in the same vicinity, but Duke and I went off to explore a sea cave, and by the time we turned around, everyone else was gone. At this point, the sun was setting, and instead of admiring its golden orange and rose hues, we started to panic. Everywhere we looked, we saw the small islands that dot the bay — but our boat was nowhere in sight. We felt exposed. One tip and we’d be in the water. Even though we were surrounded by the karst islets, they were so jagged and steep, we’d never be able to climb onto one.

As the sky darkened and my blood pressure rose, we rounded a small island and spotted a vessel in the distance. 

“We’re heading to that boat, whether it’s ours or not,” I declared. “If it’s not, they can take us to ours.” 

We did our best to paddle as quickly as possible toward the junk boat, and relief flooded over us as we recognized the Sea Pearl 6, with Vanessa standing on deck. It was all a bit too close for comfort, and we wished one of the crew had remained with us to help ensure our safety. (Or maybe we were just a bad combination of inept and irresponsible.)

I know it sounds as if I’m being overly dramatic, but when we were out there, with no one else in sight, as the deep darkness of nature encroached, we felt utterly helpless.

In the morning, mist covered the bay, and Wally went on deck to write in his journal.

Duke is much more relaxed after the death-defying adventure of the night before.

Vanessa hangs out on the aft deck, admiring the view.

Despite our near-death experience, I’m sure the Mother Dragon would have protected us. And while we were sad to miss out on the much-gushed-about village of Hoi An, we were happy to have had some extra time in Hanoi to experience the magic of this unforgettable bay. –Wally

 

The Temple of Literature in Hanoi and Its Confucius Connection

Looking for things to do in Hanoi? Walk through the five courtyards of Van Mieu and Quoc Tu Giam, Vietnam’s oldest national university. 

A pair of stone steles outside the main gates instructed everyone — even the emperor — to dismount their horses before entering the compound. It’s not as much of a concern nowadays.

One of the perks of staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter is that its many attractions are within walking distance. 

En route to one of the must-see destinations, the Temple of Literature, Wally, our friend Vanessa and I passed a shop selling trendy men’s short sleeve shirts. Sadly, even an XL in Vietnam would have been too small. 

The Temple of Literature is this way — but who’s right? Wally or Vanessa?

We also passed the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long on our way to the temple. 

The Temple of Literature was built to honor Confucius, who strived to have his followers live up to their ideal selves.

Quoc Tu Giam University

Van Mieu, the temple-cum-university, is located in the Dong Da district, a leafy green neighborhood about a 35-minute walk from the Prince II Hotel, where we were staying.

The temple was originally conceived and built in 1070 to honor Chinese philosopher Confucius.

A mere six years later, Quoc Tu Giam, literally translated as the “Temple of the King Who Distinguished Literature,” was established within the complex. The prestigious academy opened in 1076 to teach the doctrines of Confucius and his 72 disciples to the royal family and elite members of society before opening its doors to bright commoners in 1253. Students accepted into Van Mieu’s Quoc Tu Giam attended for three to seven years. The curriculum was influenced by Imperial China and involved rigorous study in classical Chinese literature, poetry and penmanship. 

“The man who says he can and the man who says he can’t are both usually right.”

— Confucius

The core of Confucianism is aimed at creating the ideal man, emphasizing the disciplines of social, ethical and political conduct. It’s believed that if everyone followed these principles, the right balance would be attained, and social order would prevail. 

Five courtyards lead through the complex.

Making an Entrance: the Great Portico

One of the first things you’ll see as you approach the historic structure is the impressive two-tiered main temple gate, Van Mieu Mon. The grand portico contains three doorways. The largest is in the center and was traditionally reserved for the emperor. To the left is a stylized relief of the “Tiger of the Mountain” and to the right, the “Dragon in the Cloud.” These flank the main doorway and represent symbols of the power of the king and the success of students and past scholars. 

The second level holds a bronze bell that was rung when a notable person entered the temple complex. For some reason, it didn’t ring when we came in.

The three pathways beyond run the entire length of the complex. 

Van Mieu’s design and layout are based upon Qufu, the birthplace of Confucius, located in the northeastern province of Shantung, China. Visitors take the central path, which leads to Dai Trung Mon, an open-air pavilion supported by red painted columns. Atop the middle of the roof, two carp with raised tails flank a gourd-shaped vase. 

Bonsai trees are planted in the temple grounds.

The Five Courtyards 

The Temple of Literature is divided into a total of five courtyards. Behind its high brick walls are a pair of courtyards where students would relax among the ancient trees and manicured lawns. 

In the center of the second courtyard is the Khue Van Cac, the Constellation of Literature pavilion. Khue is the name of the brightest star in the constellation of 28 in the Milky Way. The square wooden structure is supported by four white stone columns and has an elaborate terra cotta-tiled double roof. Its circular windows with spoke-like slats symbolize radiating suns. 

Well of Heavenly Clarity? More like Pond of Murky Greenness.

Muddy Waters at the Well of Heavenly Clarity

Wally, Vanessa and I passed through the Khue Van Cac and entered a third courtyard, where we found Thien Quang Tinh, the Well of Heavenly Clarity. Ironically it’s neither clear nor a well, but rather a large basin of murky green water. 

Le Cour des Steles, as the French would say, as it was back in 1890

A similar shot of the Well of Heavenly Clarity, this one from the 1970s

Thien Quang Tinh and the Doctors’ Steles

Two great halls stand to either side of Thien Quang Tinh, containing the treasured stone steles placed atop the backs of turtle statues. In Vietnamese culture, turtles are a symbol of wisdom and longevity. 

These tombstone-like monuments honor graduates and sit atop turtles, which represent wisdom.

The names commemorate more than 1,300 students who attained doctoral ranks in the triennial royal court exams held at Quoc Tu Giam and provide details about the greatness of the monarch issuing the exam, as well as some regional history. Over time, the turtles’ foreheads have become burnished by the touch of thousands of hands — it was considered good luck for students to rub the heads of the statues before their exams. 

Shrines to two of Confucius’ followers

The Ceremonial Hall and Sanctuary of Great Success

The fourth courtyard is where you’ll find the Ceremonial Hall and Dai Bai Duong, the Sanctuary of Great Success, which was once considered so sacred that even the emperor was forbidden entry. Today, anyone may enter.

Inside is an elaborately decorated altar to Confucius and his four disciples Yanhui, Mencius, Zisi and Zheng Shen. One each side stands a bronze crane atop a turtle’s back.

Wally loves a giant crane — but feels bad for the poor turtle it’s standing on.

The Sanctuary of Great Success houses a shrine to Confucius.

This part of the temple was once so sacred that even the emperor was forbidden entry. Today, you’re free to roam about its confines.

From University to Pagoda of Crows

The fifth and final courtyard is where the actual university, Quoc Tu Giam, once stood. It lay abandoned when the French arrived in 1883 and was referred to pejoratively by them as the Pagoda of Crows since a flock of the black birds nested in an old mango tree on the site. The French razed the original building to accommodate the sick and wounded during wartime.

The roots of a massive banyan tree allow Wally to take a dramatic shot.

Duke taking a break while exploring the temple

Today, there are several exhibits within the reconstructed academy, including a statue of Chu Van An, one of the academy’s rectors and a beloved figure in Vietnamese history for his dedication to teaching. 

Fortunately, the Temple of Literature has retained most of its original architectural style and character through multiple wars and restorations. It was declared a monument historique in 1906 by the French administration and restored by the École Française d’Extrême-Orient in 1920. Admission is 30,000 Vietnamese dong, or about $1.30. –Duke

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TAKE A 360-DEGREE VIRTUAL TOUR of the Temple of Literature

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A dragon undulates along the rooftop of the sanctuary.

Temple of Literature
58 Quốc Tử Giám
Văn Miếu
Đống Đa
Hà Nội 100000
Vietnam

 

The Legend of Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter

A magical sword with the power to change fate is given to the warrior king Le Loi by a golden turtle who lives deep beneath the waters of  Hoan Kiem Lake. 

Legend has it that beneath the waters of Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter, a turtle god guards a magic sword.

Hoan Kiem Lake, the tranquil body of water located within Hanoi’s Old Quarter, plays an important role in Vietnamese mythology. While there are several variations of the tale, all include the central figure of Le Loi, a great warrior defending Vietnam from the Ming Dynasty of China, as well as a fisherman, a deified golden turtle and Thuan Thein, a powerful weapon bequeathed to Le Loi by a Dragon King.

“Imbued with magic, the sword enlarged Le Loi to giant size and gave him the strength of 1,000 men, bringing one victory after another, until he was able to vanquish the invading Chinese army. ”

Emperor Le Loi holds his magic sword, which could transform him into a giant, while Kim Qui, the golden turtle god, looks on.

Le Loi and Le Than: The Warrior and the Fisherman

Le Loi was a real person who lived in the 1400s. A revolutionary who became emperor, he began a dynasty that would last 360 years. 

According to the nation’s founding myth, the Vietnamese people are the offspring of a sea dragon and a mountain fairy. With such fantastical creatures running around, perhaps it’s not surprising that a local god, Long Vuong, called the Dragon King, happened to possess a magical sword.

The legend of Le Loi as depicted on a Vietnamese stamp

The weapon was divided into two parts: the blade and its handle. The blade was discovered in Than Hóa Province by a fisherman named Le Than. Believing he had caught a big fish, he was bewildered to find a long thin piece of metal entangled in his net. He tossed it back into the water and recast his net in a different location. He was puzzled to have the same thing happen again. When the sword ended up in his net for a third time, he accepted his fate and decided to take it home with him. 

Meanwhile, the young general Le Loi set out to assemble an army. While recruiting from the surrounding villages, he paid a visit to the province of Than Hóa, happening to stop at the fisherman’s home. Though the interior was dimly lit, the blade unexpectedly emitted a shimmering glow in Le Loi’s presence. Le Than sold the blade to Le Loi, which was inscribed with the words “Thuan Thein” (According to Heaven’s Will).

There was only one problem — there wasn’t a safe way to grasp it. 

Sometime later, while fleeing the Ming army, Le Loi climbed a banyan tree to conceal himself, and it was there that he discovered the sword’s hilt. The two pieces fit together perfectly. Problem solved.

Imbued with magic, Thuan Thein enlarged Le Loi to giant size and gave him the strength of 1,000 men. The sword brought Le Loi one victory after another, until he was able to vanquish the invading Chinese army. 

With echos of the Le Loi legend, King Arthur returned his magic sword, Excalibur, to the Lady of the Lake.

The Lake of the Restored Sword

Like the legend of Excalibur, the magical weapon wielded by King Arthur, Thuan Thein had to be returned to its watery source. After the war, Le Loi rowed out onto Luc Thuy, Green Water Lake, in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and was met by the golden turtle god Kim Qui. In a human voice, it asked Le Loi to return the sword to its divine owner, lest it corrupt him. The noble emperor drew the sword and cast it into the lake. With great speed, Kim Qui caught the sword in its mouth and retreated to the bottom of the lake, never to be seen again. 

A relief from Trấn Quốc Pagoda, on an island in Hoan Kiem Lake, features the turtle deity with the magic sword strapped on its back.

To commemorate this extraordinary event, Le Loi renamed the lake Hoan Kiem, Lake of the Restored Sword.

Turtle Tower, or Thap Ruá, sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem on a small island, built to honor the tale of the Restored Lake and its guardian, Kim Qui.

A stone structure now rises from a small islet in the lake. Known as Thap Ruá, or Turtle Tower, it was built to honor Kim Qui, the magical aquatic guardian of the sword. –Duke

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VISIT the Temple of the Jade Mountain in Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter

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Ngoc Son, the Temple of the Jade Mountain, in the Hanoi Old Quarter

Enter the gates and cross the bright red Huc Bridge over Hoan Kiem Lake to explore this Hanoi tourist attraction and see the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle.

Ngoc Son, aka the Temple of the Jade Mountain, sits on an island in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, in the middle of Hanoi.

If you’re staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and wandering its warren of narrow streets like we did, chances are you’ll eventually end up at Hoan Kiem Lake. The small body of water is located in the historic district and known as the Lake of the Restored Sword. Its name alludes to the mythical blade wielded by Emperor Le Loi, a powerful warrior credited with liberating Vietnam from Chinese rule in 1428. 

After finishing our breakfasts of toasted baguettes and instant coffee with condensed milk at the Prince II Hotel on our second day in the Old Quarter, Wally, our friend Vanessa and I headed out to visit Den Ngoc Son. One of the most-visited sites in Hanoi, the Temple of the Jade Mountain lies on a small islet off the northern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake. 

Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower, also sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, but isn’t accessible to tourists.

Thap Rua, Tortoise Tower

This is also where you’ll find the picturesque yet inaccessible landmark, Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower. The structure sits on a remote island in the center of Hoan Kiem Lake and was built in 1886 to memorialize the legend of General Le Loi and Kim Qui, the golden tortoise who’s believed to fiercely protect the magical sword of the Dragon King beneath the placid waters. 

One of the temple’s colorful shrines

According to historical documents within the temple grounds, Ngoc Son was established in 1841 and later renovated under the guidance of Confucian scholar-poet Nguyen Van Sieu in 1864. Its pavilions and pagoda-style shrines are dedicated to revered beings and enlightened teachers, including General Tran Hung Dao, who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century; La To, the patron saint of physicians; and scholar Van Xuong De Quan.

The first gates have Chinese characters upon them — one meaning happiness, one prosperity.

Three Is the Magic Number: Through the Tam Quan Gates

In Vietnamese culture, odd numbers bring luck and fortune, and perhaps that’s why most Vietnamese temples feature the traditional tam quan, or triple gate — which is the case at Ngoc Son. 

The first gate is decorated with two large red Chinese characters — happiness on the right, and prosperity on the left. I’d like to imagine that by walking through this portal, these attributes are bestowed upon those who make the pilgrimage to the temple. 

Just beyond and adjacent to the first gate is the Tháp Bút, a stone tower built in the shape of a traditional calligraphy brush, complete with nib. Erected by Nguyen Van Sieu, the totem-like monument is inscribed with the words “Tà thanh thiên,” which somehow carries this lengthy meaning: To write on the blue sky is to imply the height of a genuine and righteous person's determination and will.

The second gate has a tiger on one side, the symbol of female protection (e.g., tiger moms).

The second gate is embellished with colorful relief panels containing the Taoist symbols of yin and yang — a dragon and a tiger. The dragon represents male yang energy as power, wisdom and strength, while the tiger represents female protective yin energy.

Swimming koi carp gazing at the moon's reflection near a pine tree with roosting white cranes and are depicted on the other side and symbolize the concept of longevity — cranes are mythically believed to live for 1,000 years (koi, not so much). 

The other side of the gate has cranes and koi.

Finally, there’s the third gate. Be sure to pause in front of it and look up for the curious stone resembling half a peach perched on the back of three frogs. This object is known as the Dai Nghien, or Ink Slab. It was intentionally placed here by Van Sieu and ingeniously follows the Vietnamese lunar calendar. Like something out of a Dan Brown novel or perhaps an Indiana Jones adventure, the Pen Tower aligns with the sun every May 5 (which is, incidentally, Wally’s birthday) and casts its shadow upon the sacred stone. 

You can’t miss the bright red Huc Bridge, which leads to Ngoc Son Temple.

What the Huc?! Over the Red Bridge

Once Wally, Vanessa and I passed through the three gates, we crossed the graceful crimson painted wooden Huc Bridge, which arches over Hoan Kiem Lake, linking the shore with the islet. 

Wally and Vanessa pause en route to exploring the temple grounds.

Another gate separates the outside world from the interior realm of Ngoc Son Temple, known as the Dac Nguyen Lau, or Moon Reflection Pavilion. It was constructed in the Taoist style and has raised relief panels depicting the kylân, or lion-horse (often mistranslated as “unicorn”). This mythical hybrid animal symbolizes loyalty and power. To the left of the kylân is a tortoise carrying a book and a sword — representing strength and longevity. Both are suitable guardians for protecting the temple that lies beyond. 

Flowers and fruit are common offerings at Southeast Asian shrines.

Pagodas, Pavilions and Taxidermied Turtles, Oh My!

Inside you’ll find a mix of shrines and pavilions dedicated to various deities and philosophers. The upswept eaves of the terracotta-tiled rooftops are adorned with intricately carved dragons. Altars brim with offerings of fresh flowers, tea, fruit and money left by worshippers. 

In front of the Tran Ba, the main pavilion, is a massive cauldron-shaped incense burner with stylized dragon heads on either side. The smell of incense smoke is one of my strongest memories of Hanoi — its scent permeated the humid air at all hours of the day. Incense is considered to be a sacred bridge between the visible world of the living and the spiritual realm of heaven and the gods.

Doors leading into the temple

The scent of incense wafts through the air.

There are also braziers specifically designed for burning joss paper, colorful fake currency known as ghost or spirit money. These offerings are believed to provide material wealth to deceased relatives and friends as well as deities. 

Don’t miss the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle!

Today, the turtle and the sword are a symbol of Hanoi, and you’ll notice this iconography throughout the city — including the giant taxidermied tortoise on display inside the temple, which is rumored to be over 500 years old. Sadly, the lake’s last known resident tortoise passed into legend in 2016 due to pollution. 

Duke and Wally fell under the charm of the Hanoi Old Quarter.

A jade demon

A holy man

If you’d like a more authentic experience like we did, I’d recommended visiting Ngoc Son in the morning. You’ll find it buzzing with worshippers and locals who come to make their offerings before their workday. As one of the most-visited sights in the Old Quarter, it can become overrun with tourists by mid-afternoon. 

A gilded phoenix

Inside the temple

The entrance fee is a mere 3,000 dong or 13¢. To be respectful, consider covering your shoulders and knees before entering the temple. 

Be sure to come back to Hoam Kiem Lake at night to see the Tortoise Tower lit up.

I’d also recommend walking around the lake at night to see the Huc Bridge and Tortoise Tower shimmering reflected on the surface of the water. It’s enough to make you believe in magic. –Duke

 

Ngoc Son Temple
Đinh Tiên Hoàng
Hàng Trống
Hoàn Kiếm
Hà Nội 100000
Vietnam

The Charming Chaos of the Hanoi Old Quarter

How to navigate the endless stream of motorbike traffic, plus a history of the 36 Streets in Hanoi, Vietnam, which are divided up by the products they sell.

Women sitting outside on small stools at makeshift shops are a common sight in the Hanoi Old Quarter.

We trust our doctor to not only keep us healthy, but we often take his travel advice as well. When I told Dr. Slotten we were planning a week in Vietnam, he recommended we skip Ho Chi Minh City and instead fly in and out of Hanoi, with its utterly charming Old Quarter. Decision made. After all, often the best travel advice you can get is from people who have blazed the trail before you.

A gorgeous fruit market we stumbled upon

So, for us, there wasn’t any debate: We knew we wanted to stay in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, known as the Hoàn Kiếm District. We just didn’t quite know what we’d be getting into.

After the first day or so, Vanessa and Duke stopped being intimidated by the near-death experience of crossing the road — for the most part.

How to Cross the Street in Hanoi

The first thing you need to know is how insane the traffic is. The narrow, winding streets are filled with motorbikes. A never-ending stream of motorbikes. This makes something as simple as crossing the street a near-death experience. 

Some vendors take their shops on the road.

As a pedestrian, you can’t wait for a break in traffic to cross the street — you’ll be waiting forever. Literally. 

So here’s what you have to do: Take a deep breath and step out into traffic. Don’t focus on the fact that there are swarms of motorbikes heading in your direction. Take slow, deliberate steps. It’s like a school of fish: Somehow — thankfully! miraculously! magically! — the motorbikes will swerve around you as you make your way across the street. 

I have a theory that you’d do just as well (or perhaps even be better off) closing your eyes, though I never tried it.

Motorbikes piled high with goods and passengers are a common sight in Vietnam.

We spent a few days in Hanoi and didn’t end up with any sort of injury from these constant death-defying street crossings (though our travel buddy, Vanessa, did get her heel clipped a couple of times). 

The Hanoi version of a shoe store.

The 36 Streets: A History of the Old Quarter in Hanoi

There are more modern sections of the capital city of Hanoi, with wider streets that can be even more alarming to cross since you have to vie with cars barreling toward you across multiple lanes. 

That’s bananas! Merchandise fills the sidewalks throughout the Old Quarter.

But no trip to Hanoi is complete without an exploration of the Old Quarter. The area first became known as a place of craftsmanship and commerce during the Ly Dynasty (1010-1225), when Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital to Hanoi. Artisans followed the imperial entourage to the new city and set up shop in the shadow of the new palace, forming guilds to protect their best interests. In fact, what's now the Old Quarter was enclosed behind thick rampart walls with massive wooden gates until well into the 19th century.

Songbirds in cages were music to our ears.

The winding streets are densely packed with long, narrow shops — a ploy to avoid high taxes — with merchandise spilling out onto the sidewalk. Hanoi’s Old Quarter is known as the 36 Streets, though in truth these were more like small neighborhoods, often housing people from the same village who had learned a traditional trade. Each neighborhood’s name began with the word “Hang,” which can be defined as “shop,” and had a temple or communal house known as a dinh dedicated to its patron spirit. 

Wally and Duke called this stretch Tin Pan Alley.

Navigating these twisting streets can be quite a challenge. I typically have a better sense of direction than Duke, but I was perpetually lost in the Old Quarter. Somehow Duke was able to keep landmarks in his head. We’d be wandering for a while, and then he’d say, “If we turn right at that shop with all the gravestone markers, it’s a straight shot to the hotel.” And I would just shake my head in amazement and be glad that one of us was able to find our way back.

Colorful fruit on sale — some types we hadn’t seen before

I spent quite a bit of time trying to discover a list of the original 36 Streets, without much luck. Then I learned that the 36 might be an abstract concept. In Eastern philosophy, the number nine represents the concept of abundance. Multiply that by the four cardinal directions, and you get 36.

The currency of Vietnam is actually the dong — which always made Wally and Duke giggle when they asked, “How many dongs is that?”

I know why the caged bird sings.

The fish market was filled with blood and guts.

Some of the streets are still dedicated to their original goods, though most have adapted to more modern products as the centuries have passed by. And the winding streets are now further subdivided so that there are currently 76. 

Before we knew what was happening, a woman had the hat on Duke’s head and was positioning the pole on his shoulder. So, we ran with it, took a picture and gave her some money.

The narrow buildings lean against each other, looking like they’re about to topple over like dominos.

Unable to find a trustworthy list of the 36 Streets, I’ve cobbled this one together from a few sources. Don’t view it as the authoritative record — but here are some of the guilds, featuring the area’s name, what it originally sold, and where possible, what it now offers:

1. Hang Bac: Silver — now jewelry

2. Hang Bat: Glazed terracotta ware

3. Hang Be: Rafts

4. Hang Bo: Bamboo baskets — now haberdashery (small items for sewing, including buttons, zippers and ribbons)

5. Hang Bong: Cotton products, such as blankets and pillows

6. Hang Buom: Sails — now imported foods, alcohol and sweets

7. Hang Chai: Bottles and other recycled goods

8. Hang Chieu: Sedge mats — now mats, rope and bamboo blinds

9. Hang Cot: Bamboo lattices

10. Hang Da: Leather

11. Hang Dan: Stringed instruments

12. Hang Dao: Fabric, including silk

13. Hang Dau: Oil — now shoes

14. Hang Dieu: Pipes — now cushions and mattresses

15. Hang Dong: Copper

16. Hang Duong: Sugar — now clothes and general goods

17. Hang Ga: Chicken, duck and pigeon meat

18. Hang Gai: Hemp goods — now silk, tailoring and souvenirs

19. Hang Giay: Paper and shoes

20. Hang Hai: Shoes

21. Hang Hom: Wooden chests — now glue, paint and varnish

22. Hang Khay: Trays

23. Hang Luoc: Combs

24. Hang Ma: Paper votive objects — now paper goods

25. Hang Mam: Pickled fish

26. Hang May: Rattan goods

27. Hang Muoi: Salt

28. Hang Non: Hats

29. Hang Quat: Ceremonial fans — now religious accessories

30. Hang Than: Charcoal

31. Hang Thiec: Tin goods — now tin goods and mirrors

32. Hang Thung: Barrels

33. Hang Tre: Bamboo

34. Hang Trong: Drum skin — now bag mending and upholstery

35. Hang Vai : Fabric — now bamboo ladders

36. Hang Voi: Limes

What kind of person will this little tyke grow up to be? Depends on what neighborhood they grow up in!

Hanoians are said to associate a person’s character based on which area of the Old Quarter they live in. For instance, men from Hang Bac, known for its silversmiths, are polite and elegant, while women from Hang Dao, where silk is sold, are known for their charm and beauty. 

While we were in Hanoi, we stayed at the Prince II Hotel in Hang Giay, known for paper and shoes. I wonder what that makes us. –Wally

Much of the Old Quarter feels a bit run-down.

Flower vendors selling their fragrant wares from the back of their bikes

We knew we were near our hotel when we passed this gravestone maker. Hang Mam, once Pickled Fish Street, now sells marble headstone markers with a picture of the deceased.

Paper lanterns are on sale along Hang Ma, or Votive Paper Street.

Wally and Duke felt like babes in Toyland.

Plastic bags stuffed with stuffed animals — some of which just might end up at a carnival near you!

Many people in the Old Quarter spend all day sitting out on the sidewalk, beginning with a pot of pho for breakfast.

Fresh veggies can be bought out of baskets on the street.

This sign cracked us up every time we passed it.

 

Top Instagram Travel Photography of 2017

Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand: The delights of Southeast Asia have captured your hearts — and your eyes as well.

Don’t get us wrong. Europe is filled with architectural marvels and rich history. We’re totally smitten with the winding labyrinths of Moroccan medinas. And India is a thrilling and sometimes intense travel experience like no other.

But nothing makes our hearts pitter-patter like Southeast Asia, with its delicious food, Buddhist temples, ancient ruins, lush scenery and kind locals.

As we looked back at last year’s top posts on Instagram, we detected a theme: It seems we’re not the only ones in love with Southeast Asia. All but two of our most-favorited photos are of Cambodia, Thailand or Vietnam.

Enjoy! –Wally

Junk in the Trunk. A view of a Junk Boat on the horizon from the deck of our ship. Local lore says that the jagged limestone karsts are the backs of a mother dragon and her children that descended from the sky. 🐉 #halongbay #karst #dragon #vietnam #southeastasia #travelasia #travelblogger #rtw #exploremore #wanderlust #traveltheworld #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Apr 21, 2017 at 4:53pm PDT

Green Meanie. One of a pair of yakṣa standing guard at the entrance to the shrine of the city pillar, Sao Inthakin, the pillar of Indra. According to local legend Indra, the Lord of Heaven in Hindu belief gave the pillar to the people who inhabited the area to protect them against evil. #watinthakin #watchediluang #yaksa #yaksha #hindumythology #rtw #travelblogger #exploremore #wanderlust #traveltheworld #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on May 10, 2017 at 4:56pm PDT

The profile of an asura, demon god, outside the South Gate of Angkor Thom. The moat is flanked by a combined total of 108 guardian devas and asuras enacting the Hindu myth of creation known as the "Churning of the Sea of Milk." The devas pull the head of the naga snake, while the asuras push its tail. #angkorthom #angkorwat #siemreap #cambodia #temple #sculpture #blackamdwhite #unescoworldheritage #instatravel #travelblogger #exploremore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 23, 2017 at 5:23pm PST

Ancient and mysterious, the stone faces of Prasat Bayon cast their enigmatic gaze into the distance as they have for centuries. The Buddhist temple was commissioned by King Jayavarman VII during the late 12th century. Some have speculated that the likeness of the faces to be of the king himself. #bayon #angkorthom #siemreap #cambodia #southeastasia #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #goexplore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 4, 2017 at 5:20pm PST

Mega Wat. Chiang Mai was reoccupied and resettled by Prince Kawila, who began a ritual circumambulation of the city at Wat Buppharam after two centuries of Burmese rule. The temple chedi with cut glass inlay is most likely from the 19th century and was influenced by Burmese craftsmen. #watbuppharam #chiangmai #amazingthailand #thailand #thaiarts #architecture #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #exploremore #wanderlust #traveltheworld #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jul 26, 2017 at 4:48pm PDT

Ancient Hisssstory. Largely built of red sandstone, Banteay Srei is a 10th century Hindu temple whose name translates to "Citadel of Women." It was the only temple at Angkor not built for the king. On its axis stands this intricately carved naga, the symbol of water. #banteaysrei #angkorwat #siemreap #cambodia #temple #prasat #architecture #unescoworldheritage #instatravel #travelblogger #exploremore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 20, 2017 at 5:23pm PST

Fig Deal. The magnificent temple of Ta Prohm cannot co-exist without the roots of the strangler fig tree. #taprohm #siemreap #cambodia #southeastasia #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #goexplore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 6, 2017 at 6:14pm PST

It Takes A Village. We felt like we were on assignment with @natgeo while visiting the amazing floating village of Kompong Khleang. Located in the lower Mekong Basin, this freshwater lake holds a thriving community of fishermen and their families. #tonlesap #kompongkhleang #floatingvillage #cambodia #southeastasia #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #goexplore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 16, 2017 at 4:42pm PST

The Buddhist pilgrimage site of Lychee Hill at Phnom Kulen contains a large natural rock formation with a sacred reclining Buddha carved atop it. Here, beneath the rock are several smaller Buddhas and a golden ox cart. #phnomkulen #siemreap #cambodia #southeastasia #arachnid #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #goexplore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 25, 2017 at 5:43pm PST

Feline Fine. Spotted this cool cat lying in a patch of sunlight while exploring the ruins of Angkor Thom. #angkorthom #siemreap #cambodia #southeastasia #catsofinstagram #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #goexplore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 11, 2017 at 5:36pm PST

Not So Private Dancers. This trio of celestial spirits at the Angkor Wat temple are known as asparas. Each is unique, from elaborate headdress to plaited hair and jewelry. #angkorwat #siemreap #unesco #aspara #southeastasia #cambodia #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #traveldeeper #wanderlust #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Apr 17, 2017 at 5:05pm PDT

Petal Pusher. The central courtyard fountain of the charming Riad Alwachma, was resplendent with rose petals and the gentle sound of gurgling water. #riadalwachma #maroc #marrocco #marrakech #africa #travelblogger #traveldeeper #rtw #exploremore #wanderlust #traveltheworld #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Apr 14, 2017 at 4:18pm PDT

A Window to the Past. #bayon #angkorthom #siemreap #cambodia #southeast Asia #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #goexplore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 13, 2017 at 6:43pm PST

The intricately carved stucco work of the Alhambra is a wonder to behold – and a great place for this little bird to perch! 🐦 #alhambrapalace #handcarved #design #stucco #architecture #granadaspain #granada #spain #españa #andulucía #rtw #travelblogger #exploremore #wanderlust #traveltheworld #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Feb 22, 2017 at 5:02pm PST

A pediment in the Banteay Srei complex shows Narashima, the man-lion incarnation of Vishnu as he prepares to disembowel Hiranyakashipu, his demon adversary. #banteaysrei #siemreap #angkor #cambodia #southeastasia #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #goexplore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 27, 2017 at 5:15pm PST

Making Waves. In Chiang Mai you'll find a myriad of Buddhist temples. Wat Sri Suphan is tucked away amid Wualai Road, in the historical silversmith district of Chiang Mai's Old City. The finely detailed exterior of its ubosot shrine is handmade by local artists from a zinc alloy. #watsrisuphan #srisuphan #silvertemple #chiangmai #buddhism #thailand #southeastasia #travelblogger #rtw #exploremore #wanderlust #traveltheworld #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on May 8, 2017 at 4:17pm PDT

A cat nap is always a good idea. 😴 This little nugget came over to say hi to us and fell asleep about ten seconds later! 😂#chiangrai #amazingthailand #thailand #catsofintagram #meow #cats #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #exploremore #wanderlust #traveltheworld #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Aug 4, 2017 at 6:08pm PDT

The Old Man and the Sea. One more from the floating village of Kompong Khleang. An old man patiently awaits with his fishing net while a young woman ascends a set of wooden steps. #tonlesap #kompongkhleang #floatingvillage #cambodia #southeastasia #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #goexplore #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 18, 2017 at 5:52pm PST

Colorful bunting made from scraps of fabric flutter in the breeze in a diminutive open-air sala pavilion located at the base of Preah Ang Thom, a 16th century monastery containing a sacred reclining Buddha. #preahangthom #phnomkulen #unesco #siemreap #southeastasia #cambodia #instatravel #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #traveldeeper #mytinyatlas #wanderlust #takemethere #traveltheworld #travelpics #tourist #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Jan 30, 2017 at 5:38pm PST

Branch Out. It's Monday. #hoteldesartistspingsilhouette #watgate #design #boutiquehotel #chiangmai #amazingthailand #thailand #thaiarts #architecture #rtw #travelblogger #travelgram #exploremore #wanderlust #traveltheworld #savoteur

A post shared by Wally & Duke (@notsoinnocents) on Aug 14, 2017 at 3:45pm PDT

Perfume Pagoda, Vietnam: The Journey Is the Destination

On this Hanoi day trip, the magic stalactites and stalagmites are cool, but the boat ride along the river is what’s most memorable.

The slow cruise along the river is the best part of the day trip to the Perfume Pagoda

We had almost a week to spend in Hanoi, and while we loved staying in the bustling Old Quarter, with its streets named for the vendors that lined the road (marble gravestones, toys, silk flowers, tin pans and the like), we saw the sights in a couple of days. So we went down to the lobby of our hotel to look at the binder containing day trips.

Colorful metal boats line the Yen River, waiting to transport visitors to the Perfume Pagoda

An overnight excursion on a Chinese junk boat in the otherworldly Ha Long Bay had already been booked. We were looking for an adventure we could go to and return the same day.

“The silhouettes of the mountain look like a watercolor painting of various shades of blue, rising above the lush green along the banks of the Yen. ”

It didn’t take long to decide upon the Perfume Pagoda.

The Perfume Pagoda is a scenic day trip to take from Hanoi, Vietnam

Located about 37 miles southwest of Hanoi are a collection of Buddhist shrines that are built into the caves at the foot of Huong Tich Mountain, which gets translated somewhat awkwardly as the Mountain of the Fragrant Traces. Perhaps that’s where the “perfume” in this pagoda comes from.

Vanessa, Duke, Wally and Inéz enjoyed their boat ride to the Vietnamese pilgrimage site

Getting to the Perfume Pagoda is all part of the fun. We hopped into a van that picked us up at our hotel, then drove a couple of hours to a town called My Duc.

“Duc means ‘good’ in Vietnamese,” our tour guide told us, pronouncing the word like “duke.”

“His name is Duke!” I exclaimed, pointing next to me. “And it makes sense, ’cause he’s good. And he’s My Duke.”

We walked down to the Yen River. Small turtles slowly paddled their stumpy legs in a bucket by the water’s edge. A local told us that we could “buy” a turtle, make a wish and then set it free into the river. (“I’m sure they scoop them right back up to sell again,” said the cynical side of me.)

You can pay to release one of these red-eared slider turtles into the Yen River — and have a wish come true

The truly amazing part of the journey are the women from the village who row you to the site. We climbed aboard a narrow metal boat that looked a bit like a larger-than-usual canoe that’s been folded out to be wider. They’re painted an array of colors: bright yellow, dark red, light blue. We sat facing a woman in a large-brimmed conical hat with a handkerchief tied over her nose and mouth. She rowed, steadily and strongly, for about 45 minutes. We were in awe.

The scenery’s not too shabby, either: The silhouettes of the mountain look like a watercolor painting of various shades of blue, rising above the lush green along the banks of the Yen. Here and there you’ll spot a rice field, a lotus, a lilypad, a shrine perched atop a craggy green karst limestone outcropping. The serenity of the landscape and the rhythmic rowing almost puts you in a hypnotic trance.

There were five of us in our boat: our rowing powerhouse, me, Duke, our traveling companion Vanessa, and a sweet girl named Inéz from Peru.

One of the gates into the temple area of the Perfume Pagoda

Once we arrived, we walked past stone structures with Chinese lettering. We especially liked one set of steps that were entirely covered with plantlife.

One of the most striking scenes at the Perfume Pagoda are these foliage-covered steps

Wally and Inéz sit on the steps at the entrance — a great spot for a pic

Legend has it that Buddha himself washed in the river here, and today, Vietnamese devotees follow suit, bathing in the water to wash away their bad karma — similar to how Christians get bapitzed.

Duke and Wally in front of a gate at the temple complex, a large portion of which was referred to as “the Kitchen” by our guide. We wondered if that meant it was a ceremonial or banquet space

We aimlessly wandered the temple complex, spotting a Buddhist monk at one point

We were told we could hike to the top of the hill to see the Perfume Pagoda or we could take the cable car. Not wanting to seem like weaklings, we decided to walk up.

We thought we’d walk up to the Perfume Pagoda — but after a bit of a hike in the intense heat, we quickly decided the cable car was the way to go

After about five minutes of trudging up a series of steps in the sweltering heat, we all turned to each other and said, “Cable car?” We hurried back down and climbed into a gondola, cruising through the sky, admiring the view. It was a wise decision and one we recommend.

Vanessa and Wally were glad they decided to take the cable car up to the top

…and Duke and Inéz were in complete agreement

Inside the Dragon’s Mouth

At the top, you’ll see the grotto entrance, which is said to be shaped like a dragon’s mouth. I’m not sure why it’s referred to as a pagoda at all.

This toy bugle that Wally blew might have been an offering to give birth to a boy at the magic stalactites and stalagmites inside the Perfume Pagoda cave

As we neared the entrance, a man approached me and told me that I couldn’t enter the cave because I was wearing shorts. All we could think was that my shorts came a bit above the knee. Vanessa had to borrow a shawl from a Dutch woman in our group to cover her indecent shoulders. 

I found our tour guide and told him I didn’t come all this way not to go into the cave, so he spoke with the disciplinarian and waved me on. 

So you don’t undergo a similar unpleasant experience, know that this is a site that has somewhat strict rules about dress code. Make sure your knees and shoulders are covered.

A candlelit shrine in the cave at Perfume Pagoda

The cave temple isn’t the most impressive (it pales in comparison to the Ajanta Caves or Ellora Caves in India, for example). It’s thought to date from the 1400s.

It’s one of the most visited sites for the Vietnamese, though. Pilgrims come here to pray to and rub the stalactites and stalagmites, and each has its own power. One of the more famous ones is said to ensure a woman will give birth to a daughter, and there are some for general prosperity and a bountiful harvest as well. Heck, there’s even one that’s shaped like a breast. It offers health if you catch some of the “heavenly milk” that drips from it. This nature worship speaks to the fact that before this was a Buddhist shrine, it was a sacred animist space.

Exploring the cave won’t take much time, so be sure to meander through the stone temple at your leisure

Statues sit inside the shrine, including green stones depictions of the Buddha and Quan Am, a multi-armed bodhisattva of compassion who’s popular around these parts. Bodhisattvas could reach enlightenment if they wanted to, but they delay it so they can remain on Earth to teach.

Because we had gravity on our side, we decided to forgo the cable car and climb down the mountain on foot. There’s a winding path past stonework, bamboo scaffolding and, strangely, a monkey on a chain.

On the walk down, we passed a monkey on a chain. Duke claims he loves monkeys — but was terrified to get too close to this one. So it was Wally who posed (keeping a safe distance)

Then it’s back in the boat, with a local Wonder Woman powerfully rowing on the return trip as well. With this day trip, the journey truly is the destination. –Wally

“Pilgrims come here to pray to and rub the stalactites and stalagmites, and each has its own power. One ensures a woman will give birth to a daughter. Heck, there’s even one shaped like a breast. ”

Bizarre Foods Around the World

Weird food: Would you try crickets, scorpions, guinea pig…or dog?

 

I think of myself as adventurous when it comes to food. I’ll eat pretty much anything.

But when you start getting into Bizarre Foods With Andrew Zimmern territory, my stomach starts churning.

“I think we all just ate dog.”

I’ve gobbled down the delicious fattiness of pig cheeks, for instance. And when you really think about it, shrimp could be considered the insects of the sea.

Here are some of the foods I encountered on my travels — some of which I braved and others I chickened out on actually trying.

Guinea pig, or cuy, comes flayed open like something scraped off the road — you know, so you can sure you're not eating a cat

Guinea pigs

Known as cuy in Peru, these are a delicacy in the Andes. We visited villages where locals had tiny pens to keep in a few guinea pigs, awaiting a special occasion. 

I figured I had to try cuy at least once. It was on the menu at a restaurant in Puno, a town on the shore of Lake Titicaca (go ahead and giggle). 

When Cameron, one of my fellow travelers, ordered it, I sighed in relief. 

“I’ll just try a bite of yours,” I said, and ordered the alapaca medallions for myself.

We were all horrified when the cuy came out. It sat upon its plate, flayed open, ribs visible, head still on, teeth bared, looking more like roadkill than dinner.

Once Cameron had dug in, I reached across the table and grabbed some with my fork. It stretched like a rubber band before it broke off with a snap. And a rubber band was exactly how it tasted. 

“Why do they serve cuy like that?” I asked the waiter.

“That is how it is served everywhere,” he informed us. “The head is on to show that you are not eating cat. A lot of restaurants try to serve you cat, but not us.”

“That’s good,” I said, happy to return to my alpaca. Which was delicious, by the way.

Crickets are popular snacks all over Thailand

Crickets and scorpions

I stayed with friends in Bangkok, Thailand, and at the end of their street was a small cart that sold crickets as well as pitch-black scorpions.

I was glad to see that the stingers had been removed from the scorpions. But as someone who has an irrational phobia of these creatures (all that power to kill in one small, creepy crawly package just gives me the shivers), you couldn’t even get me to consider trying one. 

Every time we passed by, I said I’d try a cricket, though. And every time I wimped out. I just couldn’t see the appeal of noshing on a dried insect, and the inevitable crunch just wigged me out. Part of the fact was that my stomach was still adjusting to the intensely spicy Thai food, and I was afraid that forcing a cricket down wouldn’t help matters.

That being said, there were carts all over the country, and they were always busy. Hordes of passersby would buy a bag full of crickets or a skewer and would gobble them down like popcorn.

The Perfume Pagoda in northern Vietnam is a region known for a dish called thit cho, which consists of dog

Dog

Before we traveled to Vietnam, I had read in the guidebooks that there’s a region up north that specializes in thit cho, or dog. Duke and I learned the phrase and made sure to avoid it.

We stayed in Hanoi and took a day trip to the Perfume Pagoda. On the way there, I had noticed a lot of the restaurants had signs out front proudly touting the specialty of the house: thit cho.

On the return trip, we stopped for dinner. They sat us in a room to the side of the restaurant, and served us family style, passing around big platters of entrées and sides. One of the dishes was indiscernible — the meat was like gamey, gristly beef.

“OK,” I announced to the table. “Here’s a dish of mystery meat. Everyone try it.”

It made the rounds, and after everyone had taken a bite or two, I dropped the bomb.

“This region specializes in serving dog. Did anyone else notice the two statues of German shepherds on the way in? I think we all just ate dog.”

Almost everyone grimaced, or protested the possibility, or mumbled a curse in my direction.

But the girl from Sweden piped up with, “That was good! Can you pass it back this way?”

As we left the restaurant, I asked our tour guide if we had eaten dog.

“No, no,” he said. “Pig.”

Well, I can assure you that was certainly not pork.

So we’re not certain we’ve eaten dog — we just have the sneaking suspicion we did.

What's the weirdest food you've seen on your travels? And did you try it? –Wally