fountains

Gorgeous Guanajuato: The Ultimate Day Trip From San Miguel de Allende

A one-day itinerary for travelers looking to experience the best of Guanajuato City, including the Museo de las Momias, the Teatro Juárez and the funicular to the Pipila Monument and overlook.

Colorful buildings in town square with rounded fence and people sitting on steps by tree in Guanajuato, Mexico

If you’re staying in San Miguel de Allende, you’ve gotta take a day trip to Guanajuato — and we’ve got the perfect itinerary for you.

Even if you’re not into displays of desiccated corpses, the charming and colorful capital of Guanajuato, Mexico has plenty to offer. It makes for a delightful day trip from the tourist hotspot San Miguel de Allende. 

The sights in Guanajuato are equal parts beautiful and bizarre.
Historic illustration of the Plaza Mayor de Guanajuato, Mexico, showing the church, other buildings, cattle and people walking and riding horses

A Brief History of Guanajuato

Originally inhabited by indigenous groups, the region was conquered by the Spanish, and the town of Guanajuato was incorporated in 1554. 

Like San Miguel, Guanajuato was an important and wealthy colonial city due to the region’s large silver deposits. It played a pivotal role in Mexico’s struggle to break the Spanish yoke. The city was the site of the first major battle of the Mexican War of Independence, which took place in 1810. Guanajuato also played a significant role in the Mexican Revolution, which began in 1910 — it was the site of the first battle (which the revolutionaries won).

Man in yellow shorts sits on a large mosaic stone statue of a frog amidst trees in Guanajuato, Mexico

Hop to it! Follow this walking tour of charming and quirky Guanajuato.

Guanajuato Day Trip Itinerary

With this tried-and-true one-day itinerary, you’ll experience the best of colorful and quirky Guanajuato, taking in the top attractions, flavors and vistas that this charming city has to offer.

Start your day at the Mummy Museum, then head to the Plaza of the Frogs before strolling along the main street of town. Here are the places we recommend stopping at, before ending with a funicular trip to overlook this incredible mountain town. With its vibrantly painted buildings and lively plazas, Guanajuato is one of Mexico’s most beautiful colonial towns.

A horrific, naturally preserved corpse, desiccated hands crossed over its chest, mouth open with a few teeth left, wearing a pink top and a blue headdress in the Mummy Museum of Guanajuato

Museo de las Momias

Looking for a bit of spook-tacular fun? The Museo de las Momias has you covered. In our estimation, this is the town’s main attraction. The macabre museum features the desiccated husks of some of the city’s former residents who couldn’t pay their burial tax, were dug up and discovered to be naturally mummified due to the arid climate. It’s a morbidly fascinating experience that’s not for the faint of heart.

LEARN MORE: The Haunting and Horrific Mummy Museum of Guanajuato

Explanada del Panteón Municipal s/n

Stone frog statue in front of turquoise pool-like fountain in the Plaza de las Ranas, Guanajuato, Mexico
Frog statue in front of the turquoise fountain in Guanajuato, Mexico, with colorful buildings lining the hillside behind it

Plaza de las Ranas

Hop on over to Plaza de la Hermandad, also known as Plaza de las Ranas (Frog Plaza). The centerpiece is a fountain created by French sculptor Gabriel Guerra and installed in 1893. It looks a bit like a swimming pool, but the stars of the show are the whimsical frog statues made of stone that decorate the open plaza. 

Why frogs? The name Guanajuato comes from the indigenous Purépecha words Quanax-Huato, which means “Place of the Frogs.” One theory is that the town took its name from a pair of colossal boulders resembling giant frogs. Seeing this as an auspicious sign, the Purépecha decided to settle here. They were a powerful empire that dominated western Mexico prior to the Spanish conquest. 

Fun fact: Guanajuato was the birthplace of Mexican muralist Diego Rivera, who referred to himself as “el Sapo-Rana,” the Frog-Toad. 

Shelves of candy and other snacks for sale at Galerena Dulces Tipicos de Guanajuato

Galereña Dulces Típicos de Guanajuato

Want something sweet? Next stop: Galereña Dulces, a candy store that’s been around since 1865. They’ve got all kinds of traditional Mexican sweets — but don’t get your hopes up about mummy gummies. Much to our dismay, those don’t exist. 

The cellophane-wrapped caramel-colored confections we found are actually known locally as charamuscas. They’re a type of hard candy made from spun boiled cane sugar twisted into a mummy figure shape. Which, now that I think about it, these gnarly, crunchy versions are actually more fitting. 

Avenida Benito Juárez 188

Empanada on white plate from Empanadas MiBu in Guanajuato, Mexico

Empanadas MiBu

Feeling a bit peckish? Time for a snack at Empanadas MiBu. I always say: If there’s a Heaven, there will be empanadas up there. These tasty little pockets of joy come in all sorts of varieties, from savory (rajas con queso are my fave) to sweet (you can never go wrong with Nutella), and are the perfect snack to munch on while exploring the city. They’re made to order and served in paper bags, making them the perfect handheld food to eat on the go. 

Avenida Benito Juárez 65-A

Stone archway with steps and colonnade that leads into Jardin Reform in Guanajuato, Mexico

Jardín Reforma

Escape the hustle and bustle of the city by taking a stroll through this serene park that’s just past Empanadas MiBu. Head through the classical arch into a tranquil oasis that’s surprisingly peaceful for being mere steps off the city’s main drag. The loudest sound you’re likely to hear here is the gurgling of the fountain in the center or the chirping of birds.

Round blue fountain in Jardin Reforma, with colorful buildings on the hill behind in Guanajuato, Mexico
Entrance to G&G Cafe in the corner of Jardin Reforma in Guanajuato, Mexico, with table under umbrella, streetlamp, chalkboard sign and bookshelf by yellowish building

Be sure to pop into G&G Cafe, the coffeeshop in the corner of this small park, if you need a caffeine fix. 

The bright yellow facade and red dome of Our Lady of Guanajuato with blue sky and green hedge and pink rose bushes

Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato

Continue down Avenida Benito Juarez until it turns into De Paz. The yellow Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato, dedicated to the city’s patroness, Our Lady of Guanajuato, is hard to miss. The yellow edifice stands proudly on the historic Plaza de la Paz (Plaza of Peace), the main square. However, unlike most Spanish colonial cities, the plaza is not a square but a triangle, to better fit Guanajuato’s hilly geography. 

Interior of Our Lady of Guanajuato church with chandelier, gold gilding, columns and statue of Christ with the Sacred Heart

The church’s façade was designed in the Mexican Baroque style and is adorned with carvings of saints and features two bell towers and a red clay dome. The interior is just as impressive, with soaring arches, intricate gold leaf detailing and a stunning main altar that encompasses the local likeness of the Virgin Mary. 

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People sitting on the front steps of the Teatro Juarez, which looks like a Greek temple, with columns statues of the Muses on the top, with a sign for the Cervantino Festival

Teatro Juárez

While you’re in the vicinity, stop by the Teatro Juárez, a majestic Neoclassical theater, built from 1872 to 1903. Bronze statues of the Greek Muses, who represent the arts and sciences, stand on the roof.

We didn’t get a chance to go inside, but it looks impressive, awash in red velvet and gold details, with a colorful ceiling motif in the Neo-Mudéjar style, a nod to the mix of Spanish and Arab design popular in the South of Spain.

The landmark hosts a wide variety of performances, from concerts and operas to plays, international movies and dance. It has served as the main venue of the Festival Internacional Cervantino since 1972. 

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The town of Guanajuato, Mexico seen from the Overlook, with cacti in the foreground and the colorful buildings of the city, including the yellow church

Funicular and El Pipila Monument 

End your stroll through town with a ride on the funicular. The station is close by the Teatro Juárez. A cable car system built in 2001 takes you up the hill to an overlook and costs 60 pesos (about $4) for a roundtrip ticket. We had to stand in line for a bit, but it was worth the wait. The ride up is pretty fun — but the view is breathtaking. I was utterly captivated by the hilly landscape and the colorful, densely clustered  patchwork of buildings that stretched out before us. I leaned against the railing and gazed out at it for a long time. It’s easy to see why the enchanting city center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Pro tip: When facing the city below, head off to right for a less-crowded viewing platform above the basilica.

El Pipila monument of the man with his arm raised above a big G for Guanajuato on the overlook above the city

Crowds of tourists and locals gather in the shadow of the El Pipila monument, a towering 80-foot statue built in 1939 to commemorate a hero of the Mexican War of Independence.

So who exactly was this Pipila fellow? His real name was Juan José de los Reyes Martínez, who, during the siege of Guanajuato, crawled towards the Alhóndiga de Granaditas, a granary used as a fortress by Spanish troops. He had a large stone slab used to grind corn (a pipila — hence his nickname) on his back. Once he reached the door, he used the stone to break it down, allowing the rebel forces to enter and defeat the Spanish troops.

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Man in drag, black high heels, torn hose, little black dress, with mask with blond-haired wig atop his head, sitting on step smoking in Guanajuato, Mexico

Outside the Mummy Museum, we watched a performance of men in drag mock-fighting. The sights in Guanajuato are equal parts beautiful and bizarre.

SMA Day Trip

All told, we spent about four hours in Guanajuato. We hired a driver from San Miguel de Allende through our hotel’s concierge. The ride is an hour and a half each way. We got dropped off at the Mummy Museum and then texted our driver at the end of the day once we on our way back down on the funicular.

From truly disturbing to truly delightful, Guanajuato is a day trip not to miss. –Wally

A Perfect Morning in La Condesa, Mexico City

One of CDMX’s hippest hoods has its own distinct vibe with the racetrack-turned-oval-park Avenida Amsterdam and an array of eye-catching Art Deco architecture, green spaces and cafés. 

Colorful buildings along Avenida Amsterdam in Mexico City

If you’re in Mexico City, you’ve got to take a walk around the colorful colonia of La Condesa — especially the pedestrian-friendly, lush Avenida Amsterdam.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Mexico City began to experience the influence of a new international artistic movement, which had great importance in graphic and industrial design, the decorative arts and architecture. What was this revolutionary style? Art Deco, of course. 

Art and design are still a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa. Here’s how to spend a pleasant morning in the colonia (neighborhood).

Art and design are a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa.
Purple house with sign out front for Avenida Amsterdam in Mexico City

This periwinkle house and sign became a familiar guidepost for us.

1. Go round Avenida Amsterdam and the surrounding streets.

Start your day by heading to Avenida Amsterdam in Hipódromo, the heart of La Condesa. The avenue gets its shape from a former horse racing track. 

Median park along Avenida Amsterdam in Mexico City

Following the old horse racing track, Avenida Amsterdam is now a median green space in the heart of La Condesa.

Stroll along the central pedestrian median of Avenida Amsterdam and stop to gaze at La Fuente de la Glorieta Popocatépetl. The 1927 Art Deco fountain by José Gómez Echeverría is popularly known as the Bomba. The fountain consists of a dome supported by four white columns decorated with tiles. An aperture at the top allows sunlight to illuminate it, if only for a fleeting moment. 

Edificio San Martin in La Condesa, Mexico City

There are lots of Art Deco delights to discover while wandering around La Condesa, including Edificio San Martín.

As you wander this neighborhood, admire the Art Deco and Streamline Moderne doorways and façades of mansions and apartments that line the streets. The San Martin building, designed by Ernesto Ignacio Buenrosto, with its symmetrical entrance and canopy on Avenida México, perfectly characterizes the Art Deco style.

Wally’s all set for brunch at the cozy back patio at Frëims in La Condesa. He and Duke of course loved the mural.

2. Grab breakfast on Frëims’ charming back patio.

Fuel up for the day at one of our favorite spots in La Condesa, Frëims (Avenida Amsterdam 62B). The space occupies the renovated first floor of a former 1920s home reimagined as a bookstore, record shop and restaurant serving food and a variety of coffee drinks. 

We were seated at a table on the sun-dappled patio. While we were there, the gallery and garden wall mural featured a collaborative installation by Colombian artist Sofía Echeverri and Oaxacan illustrator Vero Anaya called The Origins of Knowledge. The artists describe their imaginative pieces as embodying the concept of “soróbora”: the juxtaposition of sorority, a society of women, and ouroboros, the snake that nurtures itself and symbolizes infinity by eating its own tail. 

Lemon pancakes at Freims restaurant

Lemon ricotta pancakes

Eggs Benedict at Freims restaurant

Eggs Benedict

I tried the lemon ricotta pancakes and Wally got his usual huevos benedictinos, paired with a coffee for me and a latte for Wally. We also ordered two Vecinos, a fresh-squeezed juice blend of pear, lime, cucumber and cardamom. 


Facade of Ojo de Agua in La Condesa, CDMX

ANOTHER BREAKFAST OPTION: Ojo de Agua in La Condesa


Dog park in Parque Mexico, Mexico CIty

A large section of Parque México is devoted to a dog park.

3. Take a walk in the park…Parque México, that is. 

Officially Parque San Martín, La Condesa’s large urban park was built on the former site of the elite Jockey Club de México — and everyone refers to it as Parque México now.  Built in 1927 the park is a favorite among families, dog walkers and skateboarders. 

Rollerbladers and others enjoying the Teatro al Aire Libre Coronel Lindbergh in Parque Mexico, Mexico City

This plaza, named for Charles Lindbergh, offers a space for dog walkers, children and rollerbladers to congregate.

Bougainvillea covering a pergola in Parque Mexico, CDMX

Bougainvillea covers the pergola that surrounds the open-air theater.

At the front of the park, there’s a communal space consisting of five pillars topped with a canopy and bordered by a pergola. The exterior walls are covered with graffiti and when we walked by, we watched a group of kids learning to rollerblade.

Fuente de los Cántaros in Parque Mexico in Mexico City

Nice jugs! El Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers) was modeled after Luz Jiménez, once the go-to model for indigenous Mexicans.

Standing serenely in front of the open-air Teatro al Aire Libre Coronel Lindbergh, named in honor of the American aviator, is a concrete figure of a nude woman holding a pair of jugs (literally). Known as Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers), it depicts Luz Jiménez, who modeled for its creator, José María Fernández Urbina, as well as Diego Rivera and Tina Modotti. She was considered the it girl archetype of the Mexican indigenous woman.

Clock tower fountain in Parque Mexico, CDMX

This clock tower with Art Deco ironwork, designed by Leonardo Noriega, has bells that chime to mark the hour.

Every visitor to Mexico City should spend some time in this colonia — if not use it as a base, as we did, staying in the delightful and chic Octavia Casa. –Duke

Why We Love Barragán’s Fuente de los Amantes

The bright, modern Lovers’ Fountain reflects the equestrian neighborhood of Los Clubes, northwest of Mexico City. 

Barragan's Fuente de los Amantes

La Fuente de los Amantes, or the Lovers’ Fountain, by Luis Barragán

One of the first things you’ll notice when you enter the gated community of Los Clubes (The Clubs) is, well, the horse club. And just down the street is a lot showcasing Luis Barragán’s Fuente de los Amantes, or Lovers’ Fountain. 

Nods to the equestrian lifestyle are found everywhere in the design of this semi-public space. The “lovers” themselves are wooden horse troughs placed upright. A cobblestone path leading to the flat pool was constructed to present an inviting spot where horses could drink and cool off in the 4- to 5-foot-deep water. And the green space nearby was used for training. 

La Fuente de los Amantes is pure Barragán.
Bright colors. Optical illusions. Designs that evoke emotion.
The lovers of Barragan's Fuente de los Amantes

The “lovers” are actually horse troughs placed upright — a nod to the equestrian neighborhood.

La Fuente de los Amantes is also pure Barragán. Bright colors. Optical illusions. Designs that evoke emotion as a reaction to the cold functionalism of Le Corbusier and his Bauhaus gang. 

“Barragán was good at taking rustic and traditional materials and turning them into something modern,” our guide, Martín, declared, showing us the cobblestones. His passion for Barragán definitely gave me a newfound appreciation for the architect. 

This cobblestone path was the entrance to the fountain and small park.

cobblestone pathway with feet

Wally stands on the intricate cobblestone pathway that leads to the fountain.

Martín pointed out another Barragán signature: walls that act as screens for shadows. When you stand on the side road, where the cobblestone path begins, one of the back walls is framed, and the shadows cast upon it act like a shifting work of art.

On one side, two of the walls meet to create a quiet chamber where one can imagine the rhythmic sound of a horses’ hooves merging with the soothing sound of falling water.

Barragan's Fuente de los Amantes

Barragán is known for bright colors, especially that pop of pink.

The Lovers’ Fountain took years to complete, wrapping up in 1964.

Nowadays the fountain only runs one hour a day, from 11 a.m. to noon. We visited as part of a half-day excursion with the Traveling Beetle. They, of course, timed our visit perfectly, and we got to see the water rushing along the aqueduct to pour down into the aqua-colored pool below. 

Where does the water go? If you look closely at the edge of the pool, you’ll spot a line of small holes, where the water filters in to be cycled back into the aqueduct.

The water in the fountain only runs for one hour a day now.

Barragan's Fuente de los Amantes aqueduct feature

Horses would go into the fountain’s pool to cool off and get a drink of water.

Not to beat a dead horse, but Barragán rightfully holds his place as Mexico’s preeminent architect. The more you learn about his vision — and once you experience it in real life — the more admiration you’ll have for him. —Wally

 

Fuente de los Amantes

Manantial 10
Mayorazgos de los Gigantes
52957 Ciudad López Mateos
México