What to Know Before Embarking on an Antarctic Peninsula Cruise

Penguins and glaciers and icebergs, oh my! Pro tips and incredible sights to see in the Antarctic, including Drake Passage, Graham Land, Port Lockroy, Palmer Station, Deception Island, Half Moon Island and Paradise Bay. 

A cruise through the Antarctic isn’t for the faint of heart — but could be the trip of a lifetime.

If you’re an adventure seeker, the Antarctic Peninsula is the ultimate extreme destination. The Antarctic Peninsula, also known as Graham Land or Palmer Peninsula, is the northernmost part of Antarctica and part of the larger West Antarctic Peninsula. It lies about 600 miles south of South America.

The landscape is mountainous, and there are numerous volcanoes in the region. You can expect to see a wide range of wildlife, including emperor penguins, killer whales and seals.

“Altitude sickness might not be something you think of when visiting the Antarctic, but the highest point is 2.5 miles above sea level.”

Taking an Antarctic Peninsula cruise is the best way to explore this remote, inhospitable region.

This isn’t your typical cruise, that’s for sure!

Essential Tips for an Antarctic Peninsula Cruise

Find the right time to go. 

The best time to take a cruise to the Antarctic Peninsula is during the austral summer, which runs from November to March. During this period, the weather is more stable and the days are longer. 

Sunsets can last up to three hours — making for some spectacular photographs. 

Plus, you’re more likely to see wildlife, as animals are more active during the summer. The first penguin chicks hatch in mid-December, so if you want to catch a glimpse of them, this is the ideal time to go. The whales also begin to arrive in mid-December, and there are plenty of them in January. The ice thins a bit, too, allowing tourists to explore farther south.

A luxury cruise ship plies the ice-filled water of the Antarctic.

Choose the right cruise. 

Luxury cruise ships are popular as they offer a variety of itineraries and amenities such as all-suite accommodations, fine dining and experienced guides. However, don’t just settle for any cruise. Conduct ample research to decide if a large or small boat is more suitable for your needs.

A top factor to consider when choosing an Antarctic Peninsula cruise is your budget. You should decide first how much you’re willing to spend. You don’t want to go too high and break the bank, but you also don’t want to go too low and risk a subpar experience. With these criteria in mind, you can narrow down your options and find a cruise that best fits your budget and interests. 

Pack properly. 

The Antarctic Peninsula is cold and windy, so it’s essential to pack the right clothes for the trip. Bring lots of layers and wear waterproof winter gear. 

Don’t forget sun protection, as the sun can be very strong even during the cold season.

Bring several pairs of gloves, a hat, a scarf and sunglasses to protect yourself from the elements. Ensure your clothing is comfortable and non-bulky so you can easily move around during shore visits.

Finally, if you’re an amateur photographer, bring enough memory cards and batteries for your camera. 

Pro tip: Pack a power strip, as the cabins on cruise ships usually have limited electrical outlets.

The roughest stretch of water is the Drake Passage — one of the most turbulent areas in the world.

Prepare for rough seas. 

Be ready to face the unique challenges of sea travel, including:

The Drake crossing: To reach the peninsula, your cruise ship will cross the Drake Passage, where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet. This is one of the roughest stretches of sea in the world. So you never know if you’re going to experience the turbulent “Drake shake” or the tranquil “Drake lake.” I recommend contacting your doctor for any advice before you go and packing enough anti-seasickness medication for this stretch.

Altitude sickness: It might not be something you think of, but the highest point in Antarctica is 2.5 miles (over 4,000 meters) above sea level. On top of that, the average temperature in summer is around -13°F. Drier air, less oxygen, intense cold and harsh winds can trigger altitude sickness. The best thing to do is to drink lots of water to keep yourself hydrated. 

Know the Antarctic regulations. 

To minimize environmental impact on the peninsula, the cruise industry participates in detailed environmental assessments. They also must obey international maritime laws and coordinate itineraries through pre-season planning.

While in the Antarctic Peninsula, you have to follow International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) guidelines:

• Protect the wildlife.

• Respect restrictions in protected areas.

• Keep the peninsula pristine. 

• Respect scientific research stations. 

Thanks to the plays of light in the Antarctic, you can end up with some gorgeous photos.

Photographing the Antarctic Peninsula

There’s no shortage of picturesque views in the Antarctic Peninsula. Here are my tips to capture spectacular photos:

• During the polar summer, from November to February, the sun stays above the horizon and never sets — a phenomenon known as the midnight sun. Take advantage of the unusual plays of light to take pictures of the same features from different angles and at different times of day.

• To capture more focused and vibrant photos, use the color contrast between land and sea. The turquoise water will provide an eye-catching backdrop for pictures with icebergs and wildlife.

• You don’t want your camera to freeze during the expedition, so keep it warm in an insulated case.

For the brave, there are outdoor activities on the Antarctic Peninsula, including camping.

Adventure Activities on an Antarctic Peninsula Cruise

Here are some activities to look forward to on the Antarctic Peninsula:

Kayaking: Kayaks are a great way to explore the nearby glaciers and islands up close and personal. Just make sure there are lifejackets and drysuits for this adventure.

Believe it or not, diving is an option in the Antarctic.

Diving: For certified divers, you can go 20 meters beneath the surface of the icy water. That should be deep enough to see the fascinating sea life. Whether you can dive largely depends on the weather conditions. 

Camping: Camp overnight in Antarctica under the stars for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Just be sure to bring thermal underwear, breathable down jackets, turtlenecks, thick socks, and thermal under-gloves or warm mittens.

Hiking and mountaineering: Take guided hikes to explore some of the most stunning landscapes in the world. For experienced climbers, there are also challenging mountains to scale. Pack a pair of sturdy boots with rigid soles. Your tour operator will provide climbing gear, such as ropes. 

Let’s face it: Penguins, like these gentoos, are a big draw of this region.

Sights to See on an Antarctic Peninsula Cruise

Landscapes and Wildlife

Some of the natural wonders to look forward to seeing in Antarctica include:

Unique landscapes: There are many volcanic beaches, frozen tundras and ice caves to explore. Also, melting snow exposes a rugged mountain chain that’s habitat for interesting plant life and invertebrates. 

In addition to penguins, look out for seals, whales and other seabirds.

Wildlife: The Antarctic Peninsula has numerous wildlife species, including majestic whales and albatrosses and other seabirds. You’re sure to see different types of penguins, including the gentoo, chinstrap and Adélie penguins, as well as crabeater, leopard and Ross seals.

Neko Harbor is a good spot to try to catch a calving glacier as it sheds massive chunks of ice.

Glaciers: Witness the beauty of massive glaciers, from those towering above Lemaire Channel to the calving ones in Neko Harbor, which shed massive chunks as they go through valleys and deep fjords. Those pieces that have broken off? We call them icebergs. 

Lemaire Channel

Giant icebergs: The Antarctic Peninsula is home to some of the world’s largest and most spectacular icebergs. These floating giants are awe-inspiring sights not to be missed.

Paradise Bay Research Station

Must-Visit Locations on an Antarctic Peninsula Cruise

Deception Island

First discovered by seal hunters in 1820, the island was named for the way it deceived explorers — both by its concealed entry point, called Neptune’s Passage, and by its seemingly safe harbor, Port Foster, which sits within an active volcano. The harbor is actually a caldera, where the top of the volcano collapsed and gives the island its ringlike shape. 

More than 50% of the island is covered by thick glaciers and is home to various wildlife species. The harbor and its black sand beaches are popular destinations for tourists and scientists alike. There are also hot springs, where visitors can take a dip in the 98.6ºF water.

Half Moon Island

Half Moon Island is home to many penguins, seals and seabird species. Part of the South Shetland Islands, Half Moon boasts incredible views made even more spectacular by its crescent shape.

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay is a popular cruise ship destination and one of the two main Antarctic ports. It’s rich in wildlife, including penguins, seals and whales. It is also home to a research station where visitors can learn more about the Antarctic environment. On a clear day, you can see the snow-covered peaks of Adelaide Island in the distance. 

Historical Sites

Visit abandoned research stations, such as Palmer Station and Port Lockroy, to learn about the history of human exploration and habitation in Antarctica.

These sites offer a fascinating glimpse into the past, with artifacts and photographs from many decades ago providing insight into what it was like to be a scientist in the Antarctic. 

Breathtaking Sunrises and Sunsets

Finally, don’t miss the breathtaking sunrises and sunsets in Antarctica. Get up early to catch the first light of dawn and watch as the sky changes colors from pastel shades to deep orange-red. 

At night, witness the mesmerizing beauty of the stars twinkling above the icy landscape. It’s an experience you’ll never forget! –Kayla Gallocher

The white of icebergs and glaciers contrast sharply with the beautiful blues and purples of the sky and water.

The Pabst Mansion in Milwaukee: Hopped Up on History

Take a tour of the historic home of the preeminent beer baron, Captain Frederick Pabst — an architectural gem from the Gilded Age that’s sure to quench your thirst for fun things to do in Milwaukee. 

“Could you tell whoever put up that cell tower to move it, please?” Wally asked our tour guide, Roxie. “It’s ruining my shot.”

My parents are always up for an adventure. Whenever they come to visit us, we find a fun day trip to take. Since they typically drive to see us and only spend a few days, the maximum distance for these excursions is about two hours away. When we visited my family in the fall, we toured Graycliff, the summer residence built for Darwin Martin’s wife Isabelle and designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. 

Next up: the Pabst Mansion in Milwaukee. Like Graycliff, it’s a historic property that had been acquired, adaptively reused and inadvertently saved by the occupation of a religious organization. Milwaukee is 92 miles, or about an hour and a half away, from Chicago, where we live, so the opportunity to tour the former home of a beer baron and his family made for an intoxicating destination. 

“The Pabst Mansion cost $254,000 in the early 1890s — a figure equivalent to about $8.4 million today. ”

A bust of the beer baron

A Brief History of the Pabst Mansion 

In 1890 Captain Johann Gottlieb Friedrich “Frederick” Pabst commissioned architects George Bowman Ferry and Alfred Charles Clas to create a 20,000-square-foot residence on what was then Grand Avenue (now Wisconsin Avenue). The home was one of the finest of the 19th century mansions built on Milwaukee’s premier residential street. 

The project was completed two years later at a cost of $254,000, which included the home, furnishings and artwork — a figure equivalent to about $8.4 million today. Pabst had 8,000 square feet of the house for himself, his wife, Maria, and the four children who survived to adulthood. The remainder was used as living quarters and service areas for the staff. The Pabsts employed up to 15 servants, who ran the day-to-day operations of the house.

The residence was modern for the time and one of the first to be wired for electricity, 10 years after this new-fangled energy source had arrived in Milwaukee. Additionally, the home boasted 10 full baths and a state-of-the-art central forced-air heating system. 

You’ll notice a theme that runs throughout the tour: elaborate decoration.

Face Value: The Exterior of the Pabst Mansion

Built in the Flemish Revival style, the mansion’s striking cream-colored brick façade features terracotta ornamentation and corbie gables, stepped triangular peaks, which reflect 17th century Northern European architectural forms. The gables have spires that were replicated and replaced as the originals had been destroyed by lightning sometime in the 20th century. 

Our gang taking a group shot in front of the landmark

Beneath the loggia and flanking the mansion’s double doors are a pair of ornate hand-forged ironwork window grilles emblazoned with the initials FP, for Frederick Pabst, of course. They feature delicate scrollwork and rosettes and were made by Austrian-born blacksmith Cyril Colnik. Captain Papst met Colnik at the 1893 Columbian Exposition in Chicago and encouraged him to come to Milwaukee. Colnik agreed, and set up a successful studio, where he worked until his retirement in 1955. Considered the “Mozart of Metal” for his skill at sculpting with iron, he achieved national fame as one of the foremost metal craftsmen of his time. 

The beautiful murals throughout the Pabst Mansion were painted over when the Catholic church took possession of the house. Thankfully, the restoration team was able to remove the offending coat of white and preserve the scenes beneath like this one.

Altar(ed) States: The Church’s Ownership — and the Battle to Save the Pabst Mansion

Following the death of their mother, Maria, in 1906, Gustave and Frederick Pabst Jr. put the palatial family home up for sale. After a couple of years had passed without any prospects, the boys sold the property to the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Milwaukee for $97,000 as a residence for the archbishop and offices. The sale included the furniture of the ladies parlor, music room and formal dining room. 

By 1974 the archdiocese had outgrown the mansion, and the last archbishop to live there, William Edward Cousins, moved out. It’s difficult to comprehend, but the mansion’s future was at risk. The property was sold to a real estate developer whose sole interest was to demolish the historic home in favor of a parking lot for his neighboring business, the Coach House Motor Inn. 

Our tour of the home was led by the fabulous Roxie.

Thanks to the advocacy of a citizens’ preservation group, Wisconsin Heritages Inc. (WHI), now known as Pabst Mansion Inc., the historic home was saved. They secured a mortgage, and in 1979 the Pabst Mansion was recognized on the National Register of Historic Places and opened for public tours shortly thereafter. As for the Coach House Motor Inn, it has since been absorbed into Marquette University and serves as Mashuda Hall, a coed residence for freshmen and sophomores. 

We were bummed we couldn’t tour the Beaux Arts Pavilion off to the side of the mansion. It’s undergoing restoration.

From Pabst to Present: The Pavilion

To start our tour, we followed our colorful and delightful guide, Roxie, from the Welcome Center next door to the front of a small structure known as the Pavilion. The elaborate Beaux Arts confection designed by Otto Strack extends to the east of the mansion and connects to the home via a covered walkway. The pavilion was originally the Pabst’s display at the 1893 Chicago Columbian Exposition. 

After the fair ended, it was dismantled and transported to Milwaukee, where it was incorporated into the beer baron’s home. Made almost entirely of terracotta, its exterior is ornamented with motifs, including steins, cherubs riding swans and figures representing the god and goddess of wheat and barley. 

The Pavilion began as the Pabst’s display at the Columbian Expo in Chicago, then became a conservatory, chapel and visitors center.

Originally, it was used by the Pabst family as a conservatory for rare and tropical plants. Every summer during the family’s occupancy, their gardener would bring one of their palm trees outside in spring and plant it in the yard, providing a bit of exotic flair. 

Shortly after the occupancy of the archdiocese, the Pavilion was converted into a private chapel for the archbishop. Stained glass windows were added as well as the cross crowning the copper-domed pavilion. 

Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, we were unable to go inside as the structure was undergoing restoration. Buildings constructed for expositions aren’t meant to weather the elements year after year (read the fascinating The Devil in the White City), so the plan is to completely dismantle and reconstruct the Pavilion.  

Off to a good start! The reception hall at the Pabst Mansion has seating, warm-toned wood and a cool antler and iron chandelier.

Making an Entrance: The Reception Hall

Our group followed Roxie through the front doors and into the reception hall of the grand home. I’d describe it as more of a room than a foyer and can only imagine how visitors felt when they arrived. Influential guests at the residence included Teddy Roosevelt before he became president of the United States, while he toured Milwaukee in one of Captain Pabst’s carriages. 

Looking up, I admired the coffered wood ceiling and wrought iron and elk antler chandelier, the focal point of the hall. Sadly, the original, which was fabricated by Colnik, had been removed and purchased by Karl Lotharius for his German tavern Von Trier before WHI had acquired the property. The group enlisted master craftsman Dan Nauman of Bighorn Forge Iron Works to reproduce the fixture and restore the exterior window grilles. A smaller, less ornate chandelier hangs in the musician’s nook. 

Note the wall covering in the reception hall — it’s a costly embossed linen imported from London known as Tynecastle canvas. 

The original art collection by Captain Pabst and Maria featured some of the best artists of the time. Notable works in the room include Halt Before a Wallachian Station, painted by Christian Adolf Schreyer, above the fireplace, and the haunting marble bust of Captain Pabst by Gaetano Trentanove, an Italian sculptor who emigrated to America for the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893. Like Colnik, Trentanove settled in Milwaukee and opened a studio, which led to a steady stream of portrait commissions from the city’s elite. 

A nook used by musicians to play for guests during parties is situated to the back of the reception hall. It holds an elaborate Black Forest clock and an intricately hand-tooled leather chair. 

Before we proceeded, Roxie provided us with a few basics about the Pabst Mansion: The ground floor was dedicated to entertaining guests and is divided into distinct public and private areas, including the reception hall, two parlors, a formal dining room, a smoking room and Pabst’s study. 

Wally’s favorite room was the ladies’ parlor. He’d have been sneaking in there all the time.

Fit for a Queen: Maria Pabst’s Ladies’ Parlor

The first room we entered off of the reception hall was the elegant ladies’ parlor, where Maria received her society friends. It’s decorated in the Rococo Revival style and showcases gilded curvilinear plasterwork that seems to swell and bloom as if blown by gentle gusts of wind. Fuchsia silk wall panels, curtains and tufted upholstery have been reproduced using samples taken from the original chairs. 

“This feels like a room Marie Antoinette would have had at Versailles,” I whispered to Wally. 

“Yes,” he said. “Only a lot smaller.”

The bright pink floral fabric, which covers chairs and wall panels, certainly makes a statement and helps brighten the cream-colored room.

Bust of Marie Pabst Goodrich by Gaetano Trentanove

Selecting the Fabric by Frederick Solacroix

Hand-painted lilac on the ceiling medallion

While we were admiring the details, Roxie told us about the horrific modifications made while the home was occupied by the church. Most of these were made during the tenure of Archbishop Cousins, who lived in the home from 1959 to 1974. 

For starters, the ladies parlor, along with the rest of the home’s interior walls, ceilings and woodwork, were painted white. This meant covering up some beautiful murals, evoking gasps of horror by our tour group. 

Cousins also had cream-colored wall-to-wall carpeting installed in the first and second floors. 

As Roxie was telling us this, my mind couldn’t process why the archdiocese would have done this to such a magnificent home — especially considering how opulent the interiors of cathedrals can be. 

Thankfully, restoration workers found that the paint used by the church came right off, and the original murals could be preserved.  

The music room was a favorite hangout space for the family and their guests. None of the Pabsts learned to play the piano, though, strangely enough.

Perfect Pitch: The Music Room 

The Pabsts used the less formal Renaissance Revival style parlor for family use and to entertain guests. The walls feature low mahogany wainscot panels and faux ebony twisted columns. Other noteworthy items include a baby grand piano with two stools for duets and a mechanical music box. Although none of the Pabsts apparently knew how to play the piano, the couple welcomed touring performers, undoubtedly appearing at their Pabst Theater, to play for a small audience of friends. 

Their youngest daughter, Emma, married Rudolph Nunnemacher in this room in 1897. The elaborate ceremony was held under a canopy of white and gold silk with pink electric lights on a raised dais.

Fun fact: the Pabst Mansion logo was inspired by their wedding invitations, which featured hand-painted watercolor scenes taken from photographs of Rudolph’s global travels, paired with the couple’s initials. 

Touring pianists would entertain the family.

Love it! A statue of Cupid

Portrait of Captain Pabst by Charles James Fox

Another fun fact: Apparently, Captain Pabst always wanted a brown Jersey cow. (I guess that answers the query, What do you get the man who has everything?) According to a local newspaper, on Pabst’s last Christmas, in 1904, his two sons, Frederick Jr. and Gustave, surprised him by wheeling a cow into the music room. Sadly, the Captain bought the farm, so to speak, six days later, on New Year’s Eve. 

The dining table was set up for 10 but could extend to seat 22!

A Seat at the Table: The Formal Dining Room 

Roxie told us that the dining table, chairs, built-in cabinets and mirrors were all custom-made by the Milwaukee-based Matthew Brothers Manufacturing Company, one of the most prominent furniture manufacturing houses in the United States during the 19th century. When fully extended, the dining table can seat 22 people. 

She continued by sharing an interesting story about the light fixture that hangs above the table. It was considered a marvel of modern engineering at the time, as it was equipped to use gas, kerosene and electricity. 

Landscape paintings above the doors were painted over by the archdiocese but were also able to be restored.  

The formal dining room is on the first floor of the mansion.

A small pale yellow tiled conservatory is attached to the dining room.

Fun fact: The darkly humorous actor Vincent Price filmed a commercial while seated at the Pabsts’ dining room table, ready to tuck into a submarine sandwich from Cousins Subs. 

On Captain Pabst’s desk is a letter he wrote to his children telling them that a good name is more important than riches, and imploring them to be generous and honest.

Hidden Assets: Captain Pabst’s Study

The Captain’s study is the most Germanic and elaborate of the rooms: tooled leather, trophies and an ornately carved armchair with lion-headed arms. I couldn’t help but admire the room’s highly detailed walnut and oak woodwork. Roxie explained that the interiors were inspired by the 17th century German Renaissance, and an antiquing technique was used to appear older than they really are. 

Fun fact: The study contains 14 hidden compartments that are accessed by catch levers. The Captain concealed books, important documents and cigars in his humidor. 

The oil painting over the fireplace, Plowing in Saxony by Richard Lorenz, is thought to have reminded Pabst of the village where he was born. 

The elaborately carved cabinets held secret compartments.

The window features “breath of life” marks left by the glass blower.

A small secondary desk in the study

The leaded glass windows are composed of uniform panes spun into circular shapes known as rondels. Because they’re mouth-blown and produced one at a time, each disk has a slightly irregular pontil mark left behind from the detachment of the blowpipe that’s referred to as the breath of life. 

On top of the desk is a copy of a letter written by Captain Pabst in 1899 to his children. It was included with his will, and I found the following passages to be particularly moving:

“Be generous and unselfish to each other in case of need, and above all, be honest and noble in all your dealings, not only with each other, but with the World. 

I want you to always have a good name. It is better than riches, and your greatest happiness will come from the knowledge of doing right.”

The ceiling panels of the study were painted by Louis Mayer, who ingeniously used different-colored stains to emulate the appearance of inlaid wood. Be sure to look up at the wood coffered ceiling with hand-painted panels inscribed with German proverbs.

The archway under the stairs held a telephone closet.

Step Up: The Grand Staircase Hall

Pabst embraced new technology: The home had its own telephone room, which is located in a small closet beneath the grand staircase. 

My mom, who Wally and I call Mima, remarked that she thought it was where Harry Potter lived, a reference to the cupboard under the stairs where the beloved boy wizard was forced to stay with his aunt and uncle, which made Roxie laugh. 

A cattle skull detail on the landing, looking down at the first floor.

The Pabst home was filled with statues and paintings.

The finials that adorn each of the grand staircase’s nine newel posts were cleverly designed to replicate hops buds. A stained glass skylight tops the stairwell and fills it with natural light. 

The landings at Pabst Mansion served as rooms themselves. And check out the stained glass doorway to granddaughter Elspeth’s room!

The Sum of Its Arts: Second Floor Foyer 

We ascended the staircase and stopped on the second floor. This is where several of the family’s bedrooms are located.  

Roxie had mentioned earlier that Captain Pabst was a humble man who never forgot where he came from. This is evident in the artwork he and Maria collected. The painting Farewell to the Homeland by Wilhelm Koller depicts immigrants on a ship about to set sail, most likely on their way to America. A few of the subjects are looking back in despair, not knowing where they were going, while others are sharing a drink and are expressing a sense of hope. 

Emma had quite the setup, with a desk and vanity in her bedroom.

Austen-tacious: Emma’s Pabsts Regal Bedroom 

The first bedroom we toured belonged to daughter Emma, who lived in the mansion until 1897, when she married. Her room is decorated in the Regency style, which is reflected in the ormolu swag and tassel design on the fireplace mantle. The motif is repeated in the wall coverings, which were replicated for the room. If you look closely, the design depicts what appears to be swans drinking from a fountain. 

Emma’s room is the only one in the home that has all of the original bathroom fixtures and the fanciest toilet tank I’ve ever seen — it has an embossed and gilt laurel wreath and garland motif. The tub, with its oak rim, had been removed and relocated to the basement by the archdiocese. 

The Pabsts weren’t scared of mixing patterns, we’ll give them that!

Our group paused in front of a portrait of eldest daughter, Elizabeth Pabst von Ernst. Roxie told us about her tragic passing: During construction of the home, Elizabeth became ill after the birth of her daughter, Emma Marie, and died six months later from appendicitis. She was only 26 years old. Rumor has it that the Pabsts blamed her death on her husband, the German painter Otto von Ernst. 

Roxie went on to tell us that the Pabsts approached their son-in-law to discuss Emma Marie, their granddaughter: “Look, we would like to adopt her,” they said. “We feel that we can provide her with a better life and would like to make sure that she receives the inheritance that her mother would have gotten.” Otto agreed. Captain Pabst gave him $10,000, told him to leave, and he did. After the proceedings had taken place, her name was changed from Emma Marie to Elsbeth in remembrance of her mother, Elizabeth. 

It seems a bit strange to have a large portrait of yourself as a focal point in your bedroom, but hey. That’s a painting of Elsbeth Pabst by Caesar Phillip in the young girl’s bedroom.

True Blue: Elsbeth’s Room

Elsbeth was the only small child to grow up in the Pabst Mansion, and she was spoiled accordingly — she was given the most elaborately decorated room in the home. It’s richly ornamented in Rococo style and includes carved pilasters, silk wall coverings and a Venetian glass chandelier. Her room was further enhanced with a fine hand-painted frieze of floral wreaths and ribbons.

Roxie tells our group about Elspeth, whose father was paid off so she could live in the Pabst Mansion.

Fun fact: During restoration of the bathroom, Dave Strickland, the owner of Affiliated Artists, removed 11 layers of paint and made the discovery that the walls had originally been painted a light blue. While that color is now paired with baby boys, it used to be the opposite: Blue was for girls, and, believe it or not, pink was for boys.  

That’s a portrait of Maria Pabst above the fireplace in her sitting room.

A Cozy Retreat: Maria’s Sitting Room 

Maria’s sitting room is more casual than the opulent bedrooms of Emma and Elsbeth. With its floral wallpaper, cherry woodwork and comfortable furniture, it provided a retreat where the lady of the house could read and attend to her correspondence. 

The raised platform was where Maria would try on dresses — and do needlepoint when she had insomnia.

Roxie informed us that Mrs. Pabst suffered from insomnia. Unlike Wally, who conks immediately after putting on an audiobook, Maria would often get up in the middle of the night and come into the sitting room to do needlepoint. 

The sitting room for Captain Pabst is, honestly, pretty unimpressive compared to the other family members’.

Separate Beds: The Master Bedroom 

Roxie pointed out that the master bedroom had two double beds on either side of the room. This prompted the following conversation:

Wally: So they slept in separate beds?

Roxie: But you know they got together sometime, right?

Wally: Well, they did have 10 kids!

A curious piece of art now hangs in the room that was taken from the brewery office of Captain Pabst. The painting features children as the main subjects and is titled The Art of Brewing by Hermann Michalowski. In it, alarmingly young kids are shown drinking beer. Roxie explained to us that the artist’s intent was to depict the purity of the product, and of course children are traditionally viewed as good and kind. 

Be sure to check out The Art of Brewing by Hermann Michalowski to see depictions of toddlers boozin’ it up.

Why was Erik Heyl, Lisette’s grandson, painted wearing a dress? Roxie told us that it made it easier for kids to go to the bathroom before they were potty trained. 

Fun fact: Marie’s steamer trunk was returned to the Pabst Mansion after it was picked up from a collector who found it sitting on the curb outside of the private men’s hangout, the Milwaukee Club. The institution had been decluttering and was unaware that the unassuming trunk belonged to the famous beer baron’s wife. It’s marked MP on the top and M. Pabst on the bottom. 

The third floor landing

Troubles of the Pabst

At this point, Roxie pointed out that every family has problems, and for Captain and Mrs. Pabst, one was their eldest son, Gustave. In the summer of 1892, he met the freshly divorced Shakespearian actress Margret Mather. The pair fell madly in love and eloped. It wasn’t long before Captain and Mrs. Pabst found out, and they were not pleased. 

Three years later, the couple was seen arguing. A piece circulated in the national news reporting that Margret chased after and struck Gustave with a horsewhip. Although both parties denied this publicly, their marriage ended shortly thereafter. At the time, it was the largest divorce settlement in Wisconsin: Margret received $30,000 from Captain Pabst to not contest the suit. She took the money, and in 1898 she staged her theatrical comeback in a production of Cybelline, collapsed onstage in the middle of a performance and died later that evening. 

The servants had a tiny table — but they had some pretty Delft tiles to admire.

Rewarding Hard Work: The Servants Dining Room

The final room on the tour was the servants dining room. A mutual respect existed between Captain Pabst and his staff, which is reflected in the servants quarters. Their dining room includes hand-painted delft tile featuring idyllic scenes. The stenciled frieze along the top of the wall mimics the motif of the three tulips in the tile work. 

The Captain was known for his work ethic — evident in the motivational saying in a stained glass window here: Guter Mut ist halbe Arbeit (A good attitude is half the work).

A vignette in the kitchen

Saving Grace: Reacquiring Furnishings 

Thanks to a number of donors, the museum has managed to reacquire many of the original furnishings, artwork, glassware and ephemera that were part of the Pabst family’s personal effects. 

Early on, the WHI negotiated with the Archdiocese of Milwaukee to purchase three rooms of furniture that originally filled the principal rooms on the first floor. Many of these pieces were slated to be auctioned off and were saved by supporters, who aided by purchasing one chair or table at a time. 

Over the years, many more original items have been returned, helping in the effort to restore the home to its original state. 

Adult tickets are $12, and docent-led tours are about 75 minutes long. I encourage anyone with an interest in a glimpse into a bygone era, architecture, art or learning more about the Pabst legacy to visit. Help preserve an impressive landmark building. –Duke

The Pabst Mansion

2000 West Wisconsin Avenue 
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
USA

 

Where the Heck Did the Easter Bunny Come From?

Hopping through the history of the Easter Bunny, from pagan rituals to modern-day celebrations. Along the way, we’ll make some egg-citing discoveries about his birth as a fertility symbol and the origin of dyed eggs and Easter baskets.

Who knew the Easter Bunny evolved from the animal companion of a pagan goddess?

I once sponsored a child in India. His name was Papu Magi, and I regularly wrote him letters, sharing U.S. customs. When Easter rolled around, I explained how a giant human-sized bunny sneaks into our homes at night and leaves baskets filled with candy and colored eggs.

It wasn’t until I had written it out that I realized how bizarre some of our holiday traditions truly are. This got me thinking: How did we come up with the Easter Bunny?

“It makes you wonder if most Christians realize the holiday dedicated to the resurrection of their savior is actually named for a pagan goddess.”

Young women dance around a phallic maypole to increase their fertility — another pagan spring tradition.

A Pagan Origin: How the Easter Bunny and Dyed Eggs Became Symbols of Spring Celebrations

The origins of the Easter Bunny, as well as dyed eggs, can be traced back to ancient pagan rituals that celebrated the arrival of spring, including Ostara. Still practiced as a Wiccan holiday, Ostara is a celebration of the spring equinox. It’s named after the Germanic goddess Eostre, who some scholars deduce was associated with the dawn, fertility and new beginnings. (It makes you wonder if most Christians realize the holiday dedicated to the resurrection of their savior is actually named for a pagan deity).

Caveat: Hard evidence about Eostre is lacking, and the goddess remains shrouded in mystery. Much of what’s reported on her is conjecture.

Her first mention comes from a famous monk, the Venerable Bede, in 731 CE, who wrote that the Anglo-Saxons called April Eosturmonath, or Eostre Month, in honor a pagan goddess worshiped at that time.

Easter gets its name from Eostre, a pagan goddess of the spring.

These rites of spring were full of festive merrymaking, including dancing around maypoles, drinking mead and worshiping rabbits.

Yup, that’s right: Bunnies were a key figure in these celebrations. In pagan traditions, the rabbit was seen as a symbol of fertility and new life — no real surprise, given their well-deserved reputation for rapid reproduction.

During these springtime celebrations, people would decorate eggs, believing them to have the power to bring new life and prosperity to those who ate them. Using natural dyes made from flowers and other plants, they created eggs in a variety of hues. And, as crazy as it might sound, rabbits were said to be responsible for laying colored eggs.

Do Jesus and the Easter Bunny belong in the same holiday?

Hopping Into Easter: The Christian Origins of the Easter Bunny and Its Symbolism of Resurrection

The Easter Bunny may have its roots in pagan traditions, but it also had a significant place in Christian beliefs. The early Christians in Europe adopted many pagan customs and blended them with their own religious practices, which is how the Easter Bunny eventually found its way into the Christian tradition.

Much as with Christmas, some Christians bemoan the commercialization of the Easter holiday.

I’m not sure that many Christians today connect the commercial aspects of Easter with the religious ones (there’s a parallel to Santa and Christmas), but back in the day, early Christians associated the rabbit, and all of its spring rebirth symbolism, with Jesus’ resurrection.

It seems that Karen Swallow Prior, a professor of Christianity and culture at Southeastern Baptist Theological Seminary, agrees. “There’s nothing wrong with dressing up in pastels, hiding eggs or consuming large amounts of chocolate,” she wrote in an op-ed in The Washington Post. “But if the fluffy white bunny takes precedence over the crucified and resurrected Lord, we’ve missed the point.”

Easter baskets came about from a pagan tradition to carry offerings to the goddess of spring.

The History of Easter Baskets: From Pagan Offerings to Sweet Treats

Easter baskets are a staple of the holiday, but how did they become a part of the Easter tradition? It turns out that the origin of the Easter basket is also closely tied to the pagan celebrations of spring.

In pagan traditions, baskets were used to carry offerings to the goddess of spring, including eggs, thought to increase fertility. Over time, the baskets became a symbol of the bounty of spring and were filled with all sorts of goodies, like flowers, fruit and vegetables.

Well, no wonder the Easter Bunny decided to switch to baskets!

As the Easter basket evolved, so did its contents. Today, they’re most often filled with candy (including a chocolate rabbit, which kids will disturbingly bite its ears off of) and other treats, filled by the Easter Bunny himself during a nocturnal visit — again, another connection to Santa Claus. 

It’s hard to tell exactly when the Easter Bunny became adult-sized and anthropomorphic, but it seems like it might have happened around the 1950s.

Hare Today, Easter Bunny Tomorrow: Tracing the Evolution of the Beloved Easter Mascot

The Easter Bunny has been a beloved symbol of the holiday for centuries, but have you ever wondered how it evolved into the oversized, anthropomorphic creature we know today? 

He didn’t start out that way. The hare, a smaller relative of the rabbit, was revered by ancient cultures for its speed, agility and ability to reproduce, and was often associated with the moon and the goddess of fertility. A study from 2020 draws a direct connection between Eostre and her association with the hare.

Bunnies and colored eggs have long been symbols of spring, representing new life.

As the hare became associated with pagan spring celebrations, it eventually evolved into the Easter Bunny we know today. This transformation was likely influenced by the German tradition of the Osterhase, a hare who laid eggs for children on Easter morning.

Jacob Grimm, one of the famous Brothers Grimm who collected oral folklore throughout Germany, said in 1835 that the Easter hare was associated with Eostre, or Ostara, as she would have been called in ancient German.

At some point, the Easter Bunny grew in size and children were told he visits their homes at night (much like Santa) to leave them candy-filled Easter baskets.

Vintage cards from the late 1800s to early 1900s show a lot of rabbits, but it seems like it wasn’t until the 1950s or so that the Easter Bunny became more and more human-like. Perhaps families or malls started having someone dress up like the Easter Bunny for photo opportunities. And despite the fact that the Easter Bunny became bipedal and reached 6 feet or so (not counting the ears), most kids believe he can’t actually talk. 

Then again, it might have come down to marketing as a gimmick to help sell candy. “The Easter Bunny was created out of whole cloth by the confectionary industry,” claims David Emery, who writes for the fact-check site Snopes.

In another connection to Christmas, it has become a tradition to terrorize children by making them sit on the Easter Bunny’s lap for a photo.

Today, the Easter Bunny is a staple of the holiday, sometimes depicted wearing clothes — most often a vest and bowtie — and carrying baskets of eggs and treats.

To quote the M&M’s commercial, a fave of mine as a kid in the ’80s: “Thanks, Easter Bunny! Bawk! Bawk!” –Wally

Going for Baroque: The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church in Oaxaca

From its fascinating history to its stunning Baroque architecture, the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church is a must-see attraction in Oaxaca.

Like most churches in Mexico, the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán in Oaxaca has got history, style, beauty, drama and a whole lot of swag. 

Holy History: The Evolution of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church

Construction of the church began in 1572 and was completed over three decades later, in 1608. The building was designed by Fray Francisco de la Maza, a Spanish architect who was a member of the Dominican Order. 

“Inside the church, visitors are treated to a riot of color and decoration.

The walls and ceilings are covered in frescoes of the life of Christ and the history of the Dominican Order.”

Also par for the course: The church was built on the site of an existing temple that was destroyed during the Spanish conquest of the region. The original temple was dedicated to Cosijoeza, a Zapotec ruler from the late 15th century. He was a skilled warrior who fought against the Aztecs and other neighboring tribes to defend his people’s land and culture. He acted as shaman and healer as well, and was said to have possessed great spiritual power.

According to legend, Cosijoeza ascended to the heavens after his death, becoming a god who watches over the Zapotec people and protects them from harm.

During the colonial period, the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán was built as a symbol of the power and wealth of the Catholic Church and the Spanish colonial authorities. The church was lavishly decorated with gold leaf, marble and other precious materials, and it served as a center of religious and cultural life in Oaxaca.

In the 19th century, the church played an important role in the Mexican War of Independence, serving as barracks for both royalist and insurgent forces at different times. After Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821, the church continued to be the spiritual heart of Oaxaca, and it was eventually designated as a national monument in 1935.

Today, the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán is one of the most visited tourist attractions in town, attracting thousands of visitors each year.

What’s in a Name? The Legacy of Santo Domingo de Guzmán

Saint Domingo de Guzmán was a Spanish priest who lived in the 12th and 13th centuries. He founded the Order of Preachers, also known as the Dominican Order, which was dedicated to preaching the gospel and combating heresy. Saint Domingo was known for his zeal and devotion to spreading the teachings of the Church.

There was no dramatic act of martyrdom for Santo Domingo, though: He died of a fever in Bologna, Italy in 1221, and was canonized by the Catholic Church in 1234.

Divine Design: The Intricate Baroque Style of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church

Mexican churches tend not to be subtle. The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church is a masterclass in Baroque architecture, a visual feast, with intricate details both inside and out. The exterior is adorned with elaborate carvings and statues, featuring saints, angels and other religious figures. The façade is made of Cantera verde, the local green volcanic stone, which glows a lovely yellow in the sunshine. Three domes top the templo — two blue and white checkered ones atop the entrance and a larger red tile one to the side.

When we saw this woman posing in front of the church, we had to get in on the action.

Inside the church, visitors are treated to a riot of color and decoration. The walls and ceilings are covered in frescoes and murals featuring scenes from the life of Christ and the history of the Dominican Order.

The altarpiece, which was carved from a single piece of cedar, is gilded with gold leaf and decorated with intricate carvings of saints, cherubs and other religious motifs.

To the right of the nave is the Capilla del Rosario, or Chapel of the Rosary, with its own stunning altarpiece.

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There’s a museum attached to the church. Hopefully it’s open when you visit!

Sacred Treasures: The Artifacts and Exhibits of the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church Museum

There’s a museum in the massive edifice as well, to the left of the main church entrance. Unfortunately it was closed when we visited, but it holds an impressive (and surprisingly diverse) collection of religious art, including paintings, sculptures and tapestries, housed in the former monastery of the Dominican Order.

One of the highlights of the museum is the collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts, including pottery, sculptures, and other objects from the Zapotec and Mixtec cultures. You can also see a wide range of religious art from the colonial period. There’s even a collection of contemporary art, with rotating exhibits featuring the work of local and international artists, as well vintage photographs and cameras. 

As our friend Kevin, who lives in town, says, “There’s a parade or festival every day in Oaxaca.” This indigenous dance troupe performed in the plaza in front of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.

When you’re in Oaxaca de Juárez, you’ll inevitably find yourself passing by the massive Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. Be sure to stop inside and admire the gilded glory — and plan a tour of the Oaxaca Botanical Garden (Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca) on the grounds of the former Dominican monastery behind the church. –Wally

Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán

Calle Macedonio Alcalá s/n
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico

 

10 Over-the-Top Attractions in Dubai: From an Indoor Ski Resort to Dolphin Shows

Dubai is a city packed full of amazing destinations. Here are the must-see spectacles to add to your Dubai itinerary, including Mall of the Emirates, the Museum of the Future, Dubai Global Village and Dubai Miracle Garden. 

There’s so much to see and do in the megacity of Dubai in the UAE. We’ve whittled down the list to the top 10 picks to add to your Dubai trip.

In what seems like the blink of an eye, Dubai has grown into what could be considered the entertainment capital of the world — a treasure trove teeming with hundreds of attractions that draw millions of visitors from around the world. What more would you expect of a megacity built in the middle of a desert?

With its ultra-modern architecture, magnificent skyline and exotic lifestyle, Dubai is synonymous with grandeur and luxury. Almost every attraction in the UAE metropolis is built with the utmost precision and dedication, captivating the world’s attention.

With such a long list, finding the best of Dubai can be challenging. So, here’s my list of the top 10 destinations in Dubai, complete with a fun fact about each.

1. Mall of the Emirates

The Mall of Emirates is the second-largest shopping mall in Dubai and was established in the year 2005. Equipped with almost everything you can possibly imagine, the mall is one of the top places to visit in Dubai. Several cafés, restaurants, theaters and retail outlets sell hundreds of high-end brands. But the main attraction of the Mall of Emirates is Ski Dubai, an indoor ski resort!

Fun fact: Ski Dubai includes the world’s first indoor black (expert) run, which is 400 meters (a quarter of a mile) long and has a gradient of 60 degrees.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Monday to Thursday)
10 a.m. to 12 a.m. (Friday to Sunday)

Sheikh Zayed Road

2. IMG Worlds of Adventure

Get ready for a day filled with adventure at IMG Worlds of Adventure, Dubai’s ultimate indoor theme park. This massive wonderland is divided into zones, including the Lost Valley, a prehistoric land where dinosaurs roam; Cartoon Network Zone, where you could meet Ben 10 and the Powerpuff Girls; and Marvel, with thrilling rides and attractions that will leave you feeling like a superhero. Oh, and there’s even a haunted hotel, if you dare!

Fun fact: The park’s Velociraptor roller coaster is one of the fastest in the world, with a top speed of 62 miles per hour (100 kilometers per hour).

Hours: 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Sunday to Friday)
12 p.m. to 11 p.m. (Saturday)

Sheikh Mohammed Bin Zayed Road

3. Museum of the Future

What will the world be like in 2071? That’s what this forward-looking museum tries to predict. Before you even go in, admire the torus-shaped architectural wonder created by Killa Design. Then go on an immersive journey into the future and learn more about how astronauts survive in space and how you can help reduce the effects of global warming.

Fun fact: The façade is made of stainless steel plates that feature Arabic calligraphy quotes from Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the ruler of Dubai.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Near Emirates Towers Metro Station
Sheikh Zayed Road

4. Dubai Dolphinarium

Home to the majestic Black Sea bottlenose dolphins, the Dubai Dolphinarium is one of the coolest places to visit in Dubai with kids. Watch the fur seals and dolphins join together in a fun performance, and under the supervision of a trained professional, you also get to interact, play, feed and swim with these delightful sea creatures.

Fun fact: The Dolphinarium has a rare albino bottlenose dolphin named Kekaimalu, which means “From the Peaceful Ocean” in Hawaiian.

Hours:  9 a.m. to 8 p.m (Closed on Tuesdays)

Creek Park Gate 1
Umm Hurair Road

5. Dubai Global Village

Travel the world — without ever leaving Dubai. At the Dubai Global Village, you can take a stroll through the African pavilion, where you’ll be transported to the Serengeti and witness some exotic wildlife. Or visit the European pavilion to be immersed in a world of art and history. The complex also hosts incredible shows, including acrobatics, dance performances and concerts. And to get your shopping fix, there are over 3,500 outlets selling everything from local handicrafts to international brands.

Fun fact: The park’s largest attraction is a replica of the Taj Mahal, which stands 52 feet (16 meters) tall and weighs 3,000 tons.

Hours: 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. (Sunday to Wednesday, with Tuesdays for women and families only)
4 p.m. to 1 a.m. (Thursday to Saturday)

Sheikh Mohammed Bin Zayed Road

6. Dubai Miracle Garden

Get lost in the world of a fairy tale, where everything is covered in beautiful flowers. Dubai Miracle Garden is the biggest natural flower garden in the world, spreading over 775,000 square feet (72,000 square meters) and featuring 150 million flowers and plants. It’s an absolute paradise for those seeking to connect with nature — and for those who have always wanted to visit a Smurf village!

Fun fact: The flower arrangements change every season, and it takes over 200 people to plant and maintain the flowers throughout the year.

Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Monday to Friday)
9 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Saturday and Sunday)

Al Barsha South 3

7. Ain Dubai

Modeled after and inspired by the famous London Eye, Ain Dubai is the world’s tallest observation wheel, standing at a staggering height of 850 feet (260 meters). Marvel at the breathtaking views of Dubai as the capsule reaches the city’s highest point. Catch a glimpse of other places to visit in Dubai, including the Burj Khalifa, Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah Islands and more.

Fun fact: The observation wheel features 48 capsules that can each hold up to 40 people, offering a total capacity of 1,920 passengers at any given time.

(Note: At the time of publication, Ain Dubai was temporarily closed. Check to see if it has reopened yet.) 

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Tuesday and Wednesday)
12 p.m. to 9 p.m. (Thursday to Saturday)

Bluewaters Island

8. Bollywood Parks Dubai

Have you always dreamed of starring in a Bollywood musical? Well, now’s your chance! Bollywood Parks Dubai brings you the first amusement park dedicated exclusively to Indian films. As part of Dubai Parks and Resorts, you can visit various remakes of famous Bollywood movie sets like Lagaan, Sholay and Dabangg and take in a 4D movie experience or dance workshops while admiring the beautiful Indian décor.

Fun fact: The hot new ride is Ra.One – Unleashed, a virtual reality ride based on a popular superhero movie. Riders feel wind and water as they battle robots and villains alongside the film’s hero, G.One.

Hours: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Sunday to Thursday)

1 p.m. to 11 p.m. (Friday and Saturday)

Sheikh Zayed Road

9. Motiongate

Bollywood isn’t the only movie industry to inspire a theme park in Dubai; Hollywood has cast its spell as well at Motiongate. Also located within Dubai Park and Resorts, you can enjoy adrenaline-pumping rides and can meet Hollywood characters wandering around the park in zones affiliated with various production companies, including Columbia, Dreamworks and Lionsgate. Oh, and strangely enough, there’s a Smurf village here, too.

My favorite rides: the Green Hornet: High-Speed Chase and the Madagascar Mad Pursuit.

Fun fact: The park’s Zombieland Blast-off ride is the tallest freefall tower in the world, standing at 190 feet (58 meters) tall.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. (Sunday to Thursday)
11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Friday and Saturday)

Sheikh Zayed Road

10. Dubai Opera

Dubai is also home to high culture — and in my opinion, no trip here is complete without a visit to the Dubai Opera. Once again, it’s a marvel of design. Despite its name, the 2,000-seat theater literally transforms itself to play host to a wide variety of stunning world-class entertainment, including orchestras, musicals, ballets and lectures. 

Fun fact: The opera house’s iconic design was inspired by the traditional sailing vessels of the Arabian Gulf known as dhows. The building’s unique shape also transforms into a flat floor space for events other than operas.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard

Everything in Dubai is over-the-top. Bigger is better — and the attractions are no different.

In a city of superlatives, these are what I think are the best of the best. Have you noticed how everything is described as the world’s biggest such-and-such? And so many of these attractions are held indoors, away from the intense desert heat. Dubai leaves no chance for disappointment, and every visit to this gleaming metropolis is worthwhile. –Nishita Khanwani

A Guide to Visiting Hierve el Agua: Oaxaca’s Stunning Petrified Waterfalls

Calling all nature lovers! Tips to experience the magic of these breathtaking mineral springs — a mysterious example of Mexico’s natural beauty.  

If you’re in the Oaxaca area, we definitely recommend a day trip to Hierve el Agua.

I’ll admit it. After speaking with a friend who had recently been to Oaxaca, I was initially reluctant about visiting Hierve el Agua, the calcified waterfalls and spring-fed mineral water pools outside of the city of Oaxaca de Juárez. I told Wally, “It’s going to take us a couple hours to get there, and it might be too crowded.” Plus, after scrolling through dozens of images on Instagram, it seemed like the main purpose of the site was to provide opportunities to take aspirational selfies of the infinity pool overlooking the mountains and reflecting a bright blue sky. I was wrong. 

Natural springs form a sort of infinity pool perched at the edge of a cliff, looking out over the Sierra Madre mountains.

Our friend Kevin, who lives in Oaxaca, said it was one of his favorite places to watch the sun set and insisted we had to see it. Wally pleaded. I was convinced — especially after I insisted we make it a day trip and visit the Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya and the legendary candlemaker at Casa Viviana en route.

“Calcium has left behind a suspended mineral formation that looks like a frozen waterfall. ”

You’d better hurry up and get to Hierve el Agua while there are still entrance passes left!

Hierve el Agua: Almost Closed for Good

The popular geologic wonder is located in the town of San Isidro Roaguía, in the municipality of San Lorenzo Albarradas, about 42 miles, or a two-hour drive  southwest of Oaxaca de Juárez. In English, Hierve el Agua means  “Boil the Water.” Don’t let the name fool you, though: This refers to the oxygenated spring water that naturally bubbles up out of the ground from an aquifer — not the temperature of the pools, which is around 72°. 

Wally and Duke hiked down to the lookout, with the calcified waterfall in the background.

Despite its name, which translates to “Boil the Water,” these aren’t hot springs.

Pro tip for getting there: Check if the roads are open. In April 2020, residents of the municipality of San Lorenzo Albarradas, which encompasses the rugged mountainous region where Hierve el Agua is situated, blocked off one of the roads leading to the popular attraction. The abbreviated version as to why was twofold: to curb the spread of COVID, and to manage the influx of visitors. Pre-pandemic numbers fluctuated between 2,500 to 7,000 visitors per day, which, with high traffic and the ensuing garbage, was having a negative impact on the environment. There was even talk that Hierve el Agua would remain closed.

Thankfully, the natural wonder has reopened, with new rules to prevent overcrowding; the number of visitors per day has been reduced to 200, and entrance fees have been put in place to help maintain the monument and surrounding grounds. 

Our friend Kevin says hello to a dog in the stretch of market stalls leading to the attraction.

The Market and Approach to Hierve el Agua

Our group of four reached our destination in the late afternoon and parked our rental car. We didn’t know about the visitor cap and were fortunate enough to gain admission. What a disappointment it would have been to drive all the way out there, only to be turned away! So, even though Kevin loves to watch the sun set in the mountains, it’s probably best to arrive earlier than later in the day.

We passed stalls selling packaged snacks, water, soft drinks, beer, micheladas and piña loca, a mezcal-based cocktail served in a hollowed-out pineapple, with additional chunks of the fruit drizzled with bright red chamoy sauce and sprinkled with a healthy dose of chile con limón seasoning. 

Giddy up! A vaquero, or cowboy, rides down the trail to the springs.

The walking trail that leads to the main area where the pools are was a bit steep but offered sweeping panoramic views of the Sierra Madre del Sur mountain range and the outlying valley, which was occasionally interrupted by monstrously tall flowering agave stalks. I was grateful that I brought my Teva sandals, which have great support and traction — I couldn’t imagine attempting to traverse the path in flip-flops.  

There are a few different pools to explore at Hierve el Agua.

Elevated Expectations: Petrified Waterfalls and Mineral Springs

Locals revere the waters for their sacred healing properties. And while the basins are man-made, the underground spring that feeds them is natural. Because the pools are full of mineral-rich deposits of calcium carbonate, magnesium and sulfur, they had a yellowish hue. 

The pools are refreshing — with the water temp being about 70º.

Although it was spring, it was still quite hot. Be advised that you’ll be exposed to direct sunlight since there really isn’t any shade on the plateau. Also, be sure to stay hydrated; at 5,000 feet above sea level, it’s one of the highest elevation points in Oaxaca state, and your body loses water through respiration at high altitude twice as fast as it does at sea level. 

The rock formations by the mineral springs resembled a lunar landscape.

The leafless gnarled tree at the edge of the main pool surrendered long ago. But it has become iconic of Hierve el Agua, so it pissed us off to see a visitor had hung their bag from one of its twisted branches. 

The famous dead tree at the edge of one of the pools

Kevin and his amigo David decided to hang back and relax, but Wally and I wanted to check out the trail that leads to the larger of the two petrified “waterfalls” to get a closer look. The hike itself is 1.6 miles long, with an elevation change of 623 feet. You’ll find a couple of benches and a covered pavilion at the top of the trail to relax and hydrate after you’ve completed the trek. 

Take a break from mezcal and folk art and admire the natural wonder of Hierve el Agua.

The surrounding landscape and foliage is also impressive.

Hierve el Agua is a picture-perfect way to spend an afternoon.

There are two petrified waterfalls at Hierve el Agua. Rising up from near-vertical cliffs, there’s the 98-foot, nine-story-high Cascada Grande and the smaller 39-foot, four-story-high Cascada Chica. These formations are the result of mineral-rich spring water that has trickled over the cliff face for thousands of years. It’s similar to the way that a candle drips wax down the side of a bottle while melting. As a result, the calcium has left behind a suspended mineral formation that looks like a frozen waterfall. 

La Cascada Grande is nine stories tall!

After our hike, Wally and I took a plunge to cool off, which felt great after being exposed to the sweltering Oaxacan sun. 

Wally and Duke cool off after their hike.

We packed up and headed back to the car. As the sun began to set, Kevin stopped the car so we could get out and take one last look at this stunning landscape. We gazed out over the mountains, and I reflected on the pleasant day, grateful for having experienced the geological marvel in person, and for having spent it among friends. –Duke

If you can, time your trip to catch a gorgeous sunset in the mountains on your way home.

The Lowdown 

Hours: 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Parking: 100 pesos ($5)

Admission: 50 pesos ($2.50) per person

Bring: Sunscreen, footwear that can get wet and has good traction, and bottled water (though you can buy drinks and snacks at the market)

 

Dispelling Myths and Misconceptions About the Church of Satan

They don’t actually worship the Devil, for one thing. Here are 5 surprising facts you need to know, from Satanist beliefs to the controversies that hound them — and the differences between the Church of Satan and the Satanic Temple.

There’s nothing scary about the Church of Satan — except, perhaps, their propensity for creepy costumes.

In the classic Saturday Night Live skit, Dana Carvey dresses up as the priggish Church Lady, and she’s got one thing on her mind: “Is it…Satan?!” For her, Satan has everything to do with it. And when discussing the Church of Satan, it’s ironic (and surprising) to learn that Satan doesn’t really have anything to do with it. 

When you hear the words “Church of Satan,” like the Church Lady, you might picture a bunch of cultists clad in black robes, worshiping the Devil in nefarious ways. Maybe sacrificing a kitten or puppy now and then. 

But the reality is much less salacious. The Church of Satan, founded in 1966 by a former carnie named Anton Szandor LaVey, is really just an organization that rejects traditional religious dogma in favor of individualism, rebellion and personal freedom. 

“Satanism is often misunderstood as a religion promoting evil, violence and debauchery.

In fact, it’s a peaceful and individualistic philosophy that champions personal freedom, critical thinking and rationalism.”

— Blanche Barton, former high priestess of the Church of Satan

“Satanism is often misunderstood as a religion promoting evil, violence and debauchery,” Blanche Barton, former high priestess of the Church of Satan, told Rolling Stone. “In fact, it’s a peaceful and individualistic philosophy that champions personal freedom, critical thinking and rationalism.” 

Here are some of the most surprising facts about the Church of Satan that will make you question everything you thought you knew about Satanism.  

No baptism by the Devil necessary — in fact, Satan is really just a symbol for the carnal, material and earthly aspects of life.

1.  They don’t actually worship Satan.

Despite what the Bible thumpers might tell you, members of the Church of Satan don’t actually worship Satan as a literal being. There is no red-skinned Devil clutching a pitchfork and eager to torture sinners for eternity in Hell. Instead, they see Satan as a symbol of individualism, freedom and self-determination. According to the Church of Satan’s website, “Satan represents the carnal, material and earthly aspects of life.” By embracing these qualities, members seek to live life to the fullest and pursue their own desires and goals, no matter how “sinful” they may seem to others. In fact, Satanism preaches atheism. 

What does the Church of Satan believe? If booze and drugs are your thing, you do you — so long as you don’t hurt anyone.

2. Evil isn’t what it’s all about. Satanic beliefs center on being true to yourself and questioning authority.

The Church of Satan has a set of guiding principles known as the Nine Satanic Statements, originally written by LaVey in 1969 in The Satanic Bible. These statements emphasize the importance of individuality, skepticism and critical thinking. For example, the first Satanic Statement reads, “Satan represents indulgence instead of abstinence!” (Not sure why LaVey felt like he needed to shout them all.) This encourages members to indulge in all of life’s pleasures, including sex, drugs and rock ’n’ roll.

Members of the Church of Satan seem to be very dramatic — and that includes Anton Szandor LaVey, its founder and author of The Satanic Bible.

The Nine Satanic Statements

Here’s the full list:

1. Satan represents indulgence instead of abstinence!

2. Satan represents vital existence instead of spiritual pipe dreams!

3. Satan represents undefiled wisdom instead of hypocritical self-deceit!

4. Satan represents kindness to those who deserve it instead of love wasted on ingrates!

5. Satan represents vengeance instead of turning the other cheek!

6. Satan represents responsibility to the responsible instead of concern for psychic vampires!

7. Satan represents man as just another animal, sometimes better, more often worse than those that walk on all-fours, who, because of his “divine spiritual and intellectual development,” has become the most vicious animal of all!

8. Satan represents all of the so-called sins, as they all lead to physical, mental or emotional gratification!

9. Satan has been the best friend the Church has ever had, as He has kept it in business all these years!

There’s mention of vengeance, of selfishness, of sins. The Church of Satan doesn’t believe in limiting its members’ choices or imposing moral restrictions. Instead, it encourages Satanists to pursue their own desires and goals — as long as they don’t harm others or infringe on their rights. (It’s not so far off from the Wiccan Rede, “An’ it harm none, do what ye will.”) This means that members are free to engage in activities that might be considered taboo or controversial by mainstream society and prudish worshippers of other religions, from BDSM to witchcraft — and even, God forbid, playing Dungeons & Dragons.

“Satanism is about elevating and empowering the self, not wallowing in guilt or self-denial. It’s about pursuing one’s own desires and goals, while respecting the rights and freedoms of others,” says Peter H. Gilmore, author of The Satanic Scriptures.

The Church of Satan takes a libertarian approach to politics and society, emphasizing individual rights and freedoms above all else. According to the Church of Satan’s website, “Satanists believe in free will, self-preservation and autonomy.” This means that the church is opposed to authoritarianism, censorship and other forms of control that limit individual expression and freedom. So if you’re sick of the government telling you what to do and think, maybe it’s time to join the Satanist movement.

Satan Exulting Over Eve by William Blake, 1795

3. The Church of Satan doesn’t require specific rituals or practices — but orgies are OK, it that’s your thing.

Unlike many other religious and spiritual organizations, the Church of Satan doesn’t require its members to engage in specific rituals or practices. Satanists are free to choose their own path and approach. However, the Church of Satan does offer resources and guidance for those who want to participate in Satanic rituals or ceremonies, including baptisms, weddings and even orgies (releasing lust is seen as an essential need).

Devil worshippers are everywhere — and they’re coming for your children! That was what some people believed in the ’80s, during the Satanic Panic. Thankfully, Wally’s parents still let him play D&D.

4. The Church has been embroiled in numerous controversies, including the so-called Satanic Panic.

The Church of Satan has faced controversy and opposition from mainstream society since its inception. Some people have accused the Church of promoting violence and immorality, while others have labeled it a dangerous cult. However, the Church of Satan has consistently maintained that it’s a legitimate religious organization that promotes personal freedom and individualism, and has even won legal battles in defense of its rights.

In the 1980s and ’90s, the Church of Satan became embroiled in what was dubbed the Satanic Panic, a wave of hysteria that swept across the United States and other countries. During this time, many people believed that Satanic cults were operating in secret, engaging in human sacrifice, ritual abuse and other horrific acts. While there was no real evidence to support these claims, the Church of Satan was frequently targeted and was blamed for influencing the behavior of alleged cult members, including brainwashed youth.

The Satanic Temple is a much more political group than the Church of Satan. They fought to have a statue of the demon Baphomet placed outside the Arkansas State Capitol next to a sculpture of the 10 Commandments as a protest against the lack of a separation of church and state.

5. The Church of Satan shouldn’t be confused with the Satanic Temple — the group behind the Baphomet statue in Arkansas.

While the Church of Satan and the Satanic Temple share some similarities in terms of their general beliefs and philosophies, they are distinct organizations with different leadership, history and goals.

The Satanic Temple, founded in 2013, has a more politically active and socially engaged mission. It uses the symbol of Satan as a tool to challenge authority, promote religious freedom and individual liberties, and advocate for social justice and progressive values. The Satanic Temple is organized as a nonprofit and engages in various campaigns, such as advocating for reproductive rights and opposing government-sanctioned displays of religion.

In 2018, the Satanic Temple wanted a bronze statue of Baphomet, a deity with a goat’s head and a human body, to be placed next to a monument of the 10 Commandments on the grounds of the Arkansas State Capitol.

While the statue was ultimately never installed due to a legal dispute, the controversy sparked a heated debate over the separation of church and state and the role of religious expression in public spaces. The temple’s involvement in the statue project once again highlighted the organization’s commitment to free speech and individual rights, and raised important questions about the limits of religious expression in the public sphere.

“We are not merely fighting to install this statue in Arkansas, we are fighting for the constitutional rights of all Americans,” Lucien Greaves, co-founder of the Satanic Temple, told NPR.

Despite their differences, both the Church of Satan and the Satanic Temple share a commitment to individual freedom, critical thinking and opposition to oppressive authority. They also both seek to challenge the dominant religious and moral values of society, and promote a more nuanced and rational understanding of the human experience.

Satan in His Original Glory: ‘Thou Wast Perfect Till Iniquity Was Found in Thee’ by William Blake, circa 1805

Speak of the Devil

The Church of Satan is more than just a bunch of weirdos chanting in black robes (though, if you see some of their pictures on their website, that seems to be a part of their ceremonies). It’s a legitimate religious organization that promotes individualism, free thought and personal freedom. While it may not be for everyone, the Church of Satan is certainly not the sinister cult that many people make it out to be. Whether you’re a hardcore Satanist or just a curious outsider, the Church of Satan is a fascinating and provocative institution that deserves to be taken seriously. 

Stop worrying about centuries-old moral codes? Do what’s right for you — so long as you don’t hurt others? That all sounds pretty heavenly to me. 

So why not join the dark side and see what all the fuss is about? Who knows — you might just find your true calling as a card-carrying member of the Church of Satan. –Wally

Muxe Culture: Celebrating Mexico’s Fabulous Third Gender

What are muxes? An ancient Zapotec tradition blurs gender lines — but not without facing discrimination and violence.

Part of the Zapotec culture, muxes are assigned male at birth but take on roles traditionally associated with women.

Fierce and fabulous individuals are shaking up gender norms and celebrating their identities in the face of discrimination and marginalization. Meet the muxes (moo-shays) of Mexico.

But first things first: What exactly are muxes? In the Zapotec culture of southern Mexico, muxes are a third gender that includes individuals who identify as a mix of male and female — or something completely different. The term “muxe” comes from the Spanish word for woman, “mujer.” Assigned male at birth, they choose to take on gender roles traditionally affiliated with women.

“Muxe identity is about celebrating difference and diversity, and rejecting the idea that there are only two ways to be in the world.”

— Xochi Martinez in Eye

Many muxes adopt traditional female attire (fab floral dresses), while others more dramatically blur gender lines.

The Many Flavors of Muxe Identity

Much like Hatshepset, the genderbending woman who became a pharaoh in Ancient Egypt, muxe identity is complex and varied, with different expressions and categories depending on the individual and the community. Some muxes adopt traditionally feminine clothing and roles, while others maintain a more masculine appearance but challenge binary gender norms in other ways. 

“Muxe identity is about celebrating difference and diversity, and rejecting the idea that there are only two ways to be in the world,” says Xochi Martinez in Eye magazine. “We are muxes, and that is something to be proud of.”

Within the muxe tradition, you’ll find categories like muxe gunaa (effeminate muxes) and muxe nguiiu (masculine muxes). It’s all about finding a unique expression of gender identity that feels authentic and true.

When Wally passed a muxe posing on the street in Oaxaca, he had to get in on the action.

This view of gender as nonbinary has gained popularity lately — certainly in the U.S. But we’re late to the party: This indigenous group in Mexico has been practicing it for centuries. The largest concentration of muxes is found in the town of Juchitán de Zaragoza, which is located on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in the state of Oaxaca, a narrow stretch of land that separates the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. 

A local legend explains the origin of muxes. The story goes that Saint Nicholas Ferrer, the patron saint of Juchitán, was, for some reason, carrying a sack full of muxes and was set to distribute them evenly across the country. But when he arrived in Juchitán, the sack tore, and all the muxes spilled out onto the street. The townspeople viewed this as a good sign and welcomed the muxes with open arms, promising to provide them with a safe haven and a place to call home.

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RELATED: Secrets of the Hijra, India’s Third Gender

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Beyond Gender Norms: The Bold and Colorful Fashion of Muxe Culture

Muxes are known for their fashion sense. Their style is a vibrant mix of traditional Zapotec dress and modern flair, often incorporating bright colors, sequins and bold patterns. Muxes challenge gender norms and express themselves through fashion, rejecting the idea that clothing is inherently tied to a specific gender. Some muxes dress in women’s clothing, while others mix and match traditional men’s and women’s clothing to create their own distinct look.

“We love to adorn ourselves with beautiful clothing and accessories,” muxe activist Nereo García told Vice. “We like to play with our outfits and wear what we want, regardless of what people think. It’s all about expressing our true selves and feeling confident and beautiful in our own skin.”

The muxe fashion scene is a celebration of individuality and self-expression, a rejection of rigid gender roles and expectations.

Lukas Avendaño, an artist and anthropologist, explores notions of sexual, gender and ethnic identity through muxeidad (muxe culture).

The Societal Role of Muxes: A Force for Change

But it’s about much more than clothes. “Muxe culture is not just about wearing dresses or putting on makeup,” Istmo de Tehuantepec told Vogue. “It is about assuming a role in society that is both different and important, and that role comes with responsibilities and obligations to the community.”

Muxes have historically been the healers and spiritual leaders of their communities, with a deep understanding of the natural world and a talent for curanderismo (traditional healing practices). They also bring a fresh perspective to the arts, with many muxes being talented musicians, dancers and performers. And let’s not forget the amazing food: Muxes are also known for their culinary skills, with many running successful restaurants or cooking up a storm in their homes.

But beyond their specific talents, muxes bring something invaluable to society: diversity. By refusing to conform to binary gender norms, muxes challenge our preconceived ideas about what it means to be a man or a woman, and create a more inclusive and accepting world for all of us. Plus, they look damn good doing it.

Two muxes in Oaxaca

Discrimination and Violence: The Challenges of Being Muxe

And muxes do all this while facing discrimination, violence and marginalization in a society that’s still largely patriarchal and heteronormative.

I’ve been told that Mexico is a machismo society, where rigid gender roles are the norm, and anything that challenges the status quo tends to be met with hostility. This is certainly true for muxes. While they have a long and rich history in Oaxacan society, they also face some of the most brutal forms of violence and discrimination in Mexico.

For muxes, every day is a battle to exist in a society that doesn’t understand or accept them. They face verbal abuse, physical violence and sexual assault simply for being who they are. The violence against muxes is often brutal and public, with little to no recourse for justice. Many muxes are marginalized and ostracized from their communities, leading to a sense of isolation and vulnerability.

Despite the fact that muxes have been a part of Oaxacan society for centuries, many Mexicans still view them as deviant or abnormal. They can be seen as a threat to traditional gender roles and heteronormative culture, leading to a culture of fear and intolerance.

Muxes are frequently denied access to basic human rights such as healthcare, education and employment, and are subject to widespread discrimination in housing and public accommodations.

And Mexican law does little to protect muxes from discrimination and violence, and the authorities are often unwilling or unable to intervene when attacks occur. This leaves muxes without any real legal recourse, and their attackers free to continue their reigns of terror.

The Sex Lives of Muxes

Like any other group of people, muxes have diverse experiences and individual preferences when it comes to sex and sexuality. Some muxes may be gay, straight or bisexual, and their sexual activities may involve men, women or other muxes.

Some muxes are exclusively interested in straight men; others have girlfriends. “They have sex, fall in love, have relationships, get married and, if they are lucky, have children,” Diana Taylor, a professor of performance studies at NYU, says in The Guardian. Taylor’s research highlights the fact that muxes are not defined by their gender identity alone, and that their experiences and desires are just as complex and multifaceted as those of anyone else.

It’s worth noting that muxes may face particular challenges when it comes to sexual health, as they can experience discrimination and marginalization from healthcare providers. 

“Muxe sex is still heavily stigmatized and associated with disease,” Taylor says, “which means that muxes may have difficulty finding condoms and lubricants, or may avoid going to the doctor altogether.”  

Talk about visibility! A muxe appeared on the cover of Vogue Mexico!

Supporting Muxe Rights and Visibility

The violence and discrimination muxes face underscores the importance of working towards greater acceptance and understanding of this fascinating indigenous group and their experiences. 

So what can we do to support muxes and their amazing contributions to Mexican society? It starts with education and awareness, spreading the word about muxes and the challenges they face. We can also advocate for their rights and stand up against discrimination and violence. By embracing the diversity of gender identity and expression, we can create a more inclusive and compassionate world for all.

Let’s raise a glass (or a sign of support) to the muxes of Oaxaca and all the fierce and fabulous individuals who challenge gender norms and celebrate diversity every day. –Wally

West Rose: Ellicottville, New York’s Chicest Spot

The buzzy and Instagrammable West Rose restaurant in Eville is more than just a pretty face. Known for their wood-fired pizza, you should also check out the noodle shop upstairs.

West Rose, famous for its wood-fired pizzas and stylish aesthetic, has definitely taken Ellicottville’s food scene up a notch.

When Wally and I visit my family in the charming Western New York burg of Ellicottville, we always make it a point to wander Washington Street, the main thoroughfare of shops and restaurants. We’ve watched its evolution over the years and couldn’t help but notice the newish standout restaurant West Rose. 

Our visits tend to be short, so we weren’t able to check it out until this past fall. When we mentioned wanting to make sure we finally got to experience West Rose for ourselves, my sister suggested that Wally and I go for brunch. She had us at “breakfast pizza.”

“My sister suggested we go to West Rose for brunch.
She had us at “breakfast pizza.”
”

It was a Sunday and we had made reservations for 10 a.m., in hopes of beating the brunch rush. When we arrived, the front bar was already hopping with families.  

The front bar provides additional seating.

A (West) Rose by Any Other Name 

Something Wally and I noticed before even stepping foot into the restaurant was their strong brand identity. The subdued color palette uses dusty rose, gold, gray-green and yellow-ochre to great effect throughout. Upon entering the bright, airy space I admired the stylized brushed brass rose inlay in the white and gray marble tiled floor. 

A nice detail on the floor by the entrance

Wally suddenly thought he had a eureka moment: “West Rose! Westeros!” he exclaimed, alluding to the fictitious continent in the popular series Game of Thrones. 

However, we later learned from co-owner Caryn Dujanovich that it doesn’t have any connection to GoT, and is in fact a nod to where it’s located: Western New York, combined with her daughter's name, Louise Rose. And you’ve gotta admit, it’s got a nice ring to it. 

Three years into running the Grange Community Kitchen, a restaurant in nearby Hamburg, Brad Rowell and his business partner Caryn were approached by a couple of regular guests from Ellicottville who incidentally own the building that West Rose inhabits — and, as they say, the rest is history. 

“We had a great staff at the Grange and felt confident that we would be able to maintain the same level of quality there while offering some employees opportunities to advance in the company,” Caryn explains. “We were able to make our Grange sous chef, Anthony Petrilli, a partner in West Rose. He creates the menus and runs the kitchen.”

The interior is chic and clean — mostly white and light wood, with pops of the brand’s colors.

The Design: Getting Hygge With It 

The vision for the restaurant’s interior aesthetic was led by Caryn and embodies a cozy Scandinavian vibe, which suits the charming town of Ellicottville. Eville, as it’s affectionately known among locals, started as a ski town but has become an all-season destination with a variety of outdoor activities, including hiking, golf, horseback riding and Sky High Adventure Park, the largest zipline and aerial course in New York state.

Wally’s glad his in-laws live in such a charming, quirky town. (He’s says it reminds him of Stars Hollow from Gilmore Girls.)

Time-worn details like the exposed ceiling, wood floors and brick walls are complemented by industrial and natural textures. Elements such as brushed brass, cognac-colored leather, marble and white plaster, pair seamlessly with yam-colored velvet, terrazzo and beechwood. 

“We wanted the space to have a warm interior with a focus on texture,” Caryn says. “We are always mindful of making sure we won’t get sick of the design in five years!”

Hand-painted murals by Julie Molloy, art director at Block Club, the Buffalo-based agency behind the branding and identity of West Rose, enlivens the second floor space. 

We stopped in for brunch and had the breakfast pizza, topped with bacon, egg, cheddar cheese, scallions and chili-infused maple syrup.

The Food: American Cuisine Elevated 

The menu changes regularly to reflect the freshest available ingredients from local producers and farms.  

“After considering seasonality, we then decide what dishes fit the vibe and theme of the restaurant,” Caryn tells us. 

You’ll find items like cheeseburgers, cioppino, kale Caesar salads and crispy chicken on the menu — but the wood-fired pizzas are the star of the show. 

The restaurant’s use of geometric shapes and a captivating color palette instantly drew our attention.

Wally and I  were seated across from the kitchen bar, which is perhaps the most special part of the restaurant, as it features a wood-fired oven imported from Naples, Italy. We had quite the show: I tried unsuccessfully to capture a chef expertly tossing and spinning pizza dough. 

We ordered and shared a savory breakfast pizza topped with bacon, egg, cheddar cheese, scallions and chili-infused maple syrup — washed down with a couple of spicy Bloody Marys, of course. 

West Rose Upstairs has become a noodle shop and cocktail bar.

Using Their Noodles

Be sure to check out the second floor of the restaurant, which features a lounge and ramen bar. 

“The noodle bar concept was actually not what we originally had in mind for that space!” Caryn explains. “That area of the building was left unfinished when the restaurant was first built, and after two years, we decided it would be a good time to make use of the space.” 

The original plan was to offer an easy-to-execute menu of upscale bar food items, including fancy hot dogs, focaccia pizza and cheese plates. 

“Our chef and manager Mark decided to try something different and made a drunken noodle bowl to put on the menu,” Caryn continues. “This became by far our most popular item, and since Mark is a talented chef, who is able to create and execute a full noodle bar concept, we decided to go in a new direction!”

If noodles aren’t your thing, though, you can order snacks such as smoked spiced Marcona almonds, housemade focaccia or marinated olives. 

Both spaces are open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, and brunch on weekends. 

“The best part of running a restaurant is working with our team to create memorable experiences for our guests on a nightly basis,” Caryn says. 

If you’re in Eville, stop in and see for yourself. 

And be sure to check out their newest project, Wayland Brewing Company in Orchard Park. –Duke

West Rose

23 Washington Street
Ellicottville, New York 

 

When Did Jesus Become God? 5 Startling Findings in the Gospels

Matthew, Mark, Luke and John offer differing views of Christ’s divinity. Some say he became divine at his baptism, others that he has always been one with God. Plus: Did the idea of the Virgin Mary come from a misunderstanding?

Jesus was crucified and came to be viewed as divine after his resurrection. But as time went on, the Gospel writers altered this view, offering different takes on when Jesus became one with God.

Icon of the Crucifixion by Andreas Pavias, second half of the 15th century

What did the earliest Christians believe? The first writings about Jesus reveal that his original followers thought that he became divine upon his resurrection. 

But that’s not a belief shared in all of the books of the New Testament. In fact, there was hardly a consensus among early followers. “Different Christians in different churches in different regions had different views of Jesus, almost from the get-go,” writes Bart D. Ehrman in the 2014 book How Jesus Became God: The Exaltation of a Jewish Preacher From Galilee. 

“If Jesus claimed to be equal with God,
wouldn’t the earlier Gospels have mentioned it? ”

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Here are five surprising findings revealed in a study of the Gospels.

Early Christians believed Jesus became divine upon his resurrection — but in the earliest Gospel, Mark, the timeline had been moved back to his baptism.

Theophany, an icon of the Baptism of the Lord, 20th century

1. The Gospel of Mark doesn’t mention that Mary was a virgin, and declares that Jesus became divine only after being baptized. 

According to Mark, Jesus was fully human up until the point that John the Baptist baptizes him. Once this happens, the Spirit of God descends as a dove and a voice from the heavens declares, “You are my beloved son, in you I am well pleased” (Mark 1:9-11). 

It is only after this has happened that Jesus begins his own ministry, now one with God, and is able to perform miracles (walk on water, raise the dead), cast out demons and forgive sins.  

The author of Luke literally changed the words of God because the earlier view that Jesus became divine after being baptized had become a heresy.

The Baptism of Christ by Domenico Ghirlandaio, 1490

2. A passage in Luke was changed from its original to downplay the statement that Jesus became the Son of God at his baptism.

We don’t have any original documents of the New Testament. What we do have are copies made centuries later — many of which have been altered and differ from each other. One such passage about Jesus’ baptism in Luke tweaks what God says. “But in several of our old witnesses to the text, the voice says something else,” Ehrman writes. “It quotes Psalm 2:7: ‘You are my Son, today I have begotten you.’” 

Why make this change? Ehrman says that “when scribes were copying the texts of Luke in later centuries, the view that Jesus was made the Son [of God] at the baptism was considered not just inadequate, but heretical.” Jesus was always divine, and any other teaching needed to be suppressed — even if that’s what early Christians believed.

What if Mary wasn’t a virgin? The earliest mentions of her don’t say anything of the sort — and the concept only sprung up in Matthew with a bad translation.

The Creation of Man by Natalie Lennard, 2017

3. The Gospel of Matthew mentions the virgin birth — but this is a misinterpretation of an early prophecy.

The book of the Old Testament prophet Isaiah declares, “A virgin shall conceive and bear a son, and his name shall be called Immanuel” (Isaiah 7:14). Never mind that Jesus isn’t actually called Immanuel; the author must have made the connection because the name translates to “God Is With Us.” Turns out the quote isn’t actually about the coming messiah at all. 

To top it off, Matthew mentions the virgin birth because of a bad translation. The author read a Greek translation of Isaiah many centuries later. The original Hebrew word, alma, means “young woman” but it was translated with the Greek parthenos, which carries the connotation of a young woman who has never had sex. It’s this misinterpretation that leads Ehrman and other biblical scholars to believe that this is the origin of Mary becoming the Virgin. 

As time when on, Jesus’ divinity got earlier and earlier, until the last Gospel, John, states that he had always been one with God.

Jesus Christ by Cathy Dobson, 1994

4. It’s not until John, the latest of the Gospels, that Jesus is declared to have always existed as an equal to God.

The author of John doesn’t hold that Jesus was exalted into a divine state; he is the same as God and was his human incarnation on Earth for a few decades. This is the view of Jesus held today by most Christians — but it’s certainly not what his earliest followers, including the 12 Disciples, believed. As previously mentioned, they thought that Jesus became divine only after his resurrection and later ascension into Heaven. 

The Gospel of John declares that Jesus is the Word of God and was essential to Creation. The text deliberately calls to mind the opening lines of Genesis.

The ceiling fresco of Chiesa di Sant’Orsola in Como, Italy, painted by Giovanni Domenico Caresana, 1616

5. An even higher view of Christ is found in the Gospel of John: that Jesus is the Word of God — and, as such, is responsible for creating the world. 

The Gospel of John is the latest of the four, written in Greek 60 or so years after Jesus died, in a different part of the world — Ephesus, in modern-day Turkey. 

“For John,” Ehrman writes, “Jesus was an equal with God and even shared his name and his glory in his preincarnate state.”

Take John 5:17-18, one of many examples: “This was why the Jews sought all the more to kill him, because not only was he breaking the Sabbath, but he was also calling God his own Father, thereby making himself equal to God.”

Much discussion has taken place around the so-called Prologue of John, the first 18 verses of the book. It presents the most elevated view of Jesus’ divinity imaginable: “even before he appeared, he was the Logos of God himself, a being who was God, the one through whom the entire universe was created,” Ehrman explains. 

But if that was the case, and Jesus made such claims about himself, wouldn’t the earlier Gospels have mentioned it? There’s nothing to be found in Matthew, Mark or Luke, however. 

The four Gospel writers all have their own take on when Jesus became God.

Christ in mandorla with the Evangelists, from the Reichenau Illumination, early 11th century

Christians today tend not to take such a close look at the Gospels, not noticing the discrepancies and not aware of the historical evidence. It’s shocking to think that the form of Christianity practiced today doesn’t align with some of the views of the Four Gospels. John’s view of Jesus as one with (but somehow distinct from) God the Father has won out. But it seems as if it could easily have gone another way. –Wally