religion

Dispelling Myths and Misconceptions About the Church of Satan

They don’t actually worship the Devil, for one thing. Here are 5 surprising facts you need to know, from Satanist beliefs to the controversies that hound them — and the differences between the Church of Satan and the Satanic Temple.

Members of the Church of Satan wearing giant masks of a black cat, boar and goat

There’s nothing scary about the Church of Satan — except, perhaps, their propensity for creepy costumes.

In the classic Saturday Night Live skit, Dana Carvey dresses up as the priggish Church Lady, and she’s got one thing on her mind: “Is it…Satan?!” For her, Satan has everything to do with it. And when discussing the Church of Satan, it’s ironic (and surprising) to learn that Satan doesn’t really have anything to do with it. 

When you hear the words “Church of Satan,” like the Church Lady, you might picture a bunch of cultists clad in black robes, worshiping the Devil in nefarious ways. Maybe sacrificing a kitten or puppy now and then. 

But the reality is much less salacious. The Church of Satan, founded in 1966 by a former carnie named Anton Szandor LaVey, is really just an organization that rejects traditional religious dogma in favor of individualism, rebellion and personal freedom. 

Satanism is often misunderstood as a religion promoting evil, violence and debauchery.

In fact, it’s a peaceful and individualistic philosophy that champions personal freedom, critical thinking and rationalism.
— Blanche Barton, former high priestess of the Church of Satan

“Satanism is often misunderstood as a religion promoting evil, violence and debauchery,” Blanche Barton, former high priestess of the Church of Satan, told Rolling Stone. “In fact, it’s a peaceful and individualistic philosophy that champions personal freedom, critical thinking and rationalism.” 

Here are some of the most surprising facts about the Church of Satan that will make you question everything you thought you knew about Satanism.  

Historic woodcut of people being baptized by the Devil

No baptism by the Devil necessary — in fact, Satan is really just a symbol for the carnal, material and earthly aspects of life.

1.  They don’t actually worship Satan.

Despite what the Bible thumpers might tell you, members of the Church of Satan don’t actually worship Satan as a literal being. There is no red-skinned Devil clutching a pitchfork and eager to torture sinners for eternity in Hell. Instead, they see Satan as a symbol of individualism, freedom and self-determination. According to the Church of Satan’s website, “Satan represents the carnal, material and earthly aspects of life.” By embracing these qualities, members seek to live life to the fullest and pursue their own desires and goals, no matter how “sinful” they may seem to others. In fact, Satanism preaches atheism. 

What does the Church of Satan believe? If booze and drugs are your thing, you do you — so long as you don’t hurt anyone.

2. Evil isn’t what it’s all about. Satanic beliefs center on being true to yourself and questioning authority.

The Church of Satan has a set of guiding principles known as the Nine Satanic Statements, originally written by LaVey in 1969 in The Satanic Bible. These statements emphasize the importance of individuality, skepticism and critical thinking. For example, the first Satanic Statement reads, “Satan represents indulgence instead of abstinence!” (Not sure why LaVey felt like he needed to shout them all.) This encourages members to indulge in all of life’s pleasures, including sex, drugs and rock ’n’ roll.

Members of the Church of Satan seem to be very dramatic — and that includes Anton Szandor LaVey, its founder and author of The Satanic Bible.

The Nine Satanic Statements

Here’s the full list:

  1. Satan represents indulgence instead of abstinence!

  2. Satan represents vital existence instead of spiritual pipe dreams!

  3. Satan represents undefiled wisdom instead of hypocritical self-deceit!

  4. Satan represents kindness to those who deserve it instead of love wasted on ingrates!

  5. Satan represents vengeance instead of turning the other cheek!

  6. Satan represents responsibility to the responsible instead of concern for psychic vampires!

  7. Satan represents man as just another animal, sometimes better, more often worse than those that walk on all-fours, who, because of his “divine spiritual and intellectual development,” has become the most vicious animal of all!

  8. Satan represents all of the so-called sins, as they all lead to physical, mental or emotional gratification!

  9. Satan has been the best friend the Church has ever had, as He has kept it in business all these years!

There’s mention of vengeance, of selfishness, of sins. The Church of Satan doesn’t believe in limiting its members’ choices or imposing moral restrictions. Instead, it encourages Satanists to pursue their own desires and goals — as long as they don’t harm others or infringe on their rights. (It’s not so far off from the Wiccan Rede, “An’ it harm none, do what ye will.”) This means that members are free to engage in activities that might be considered taboo or controversial by mainstream society and prudish worshippers of other religions, from BDSM to witchcraft — and even, God forbid, playing Dungeons & Dragons.

“Satanism is about elevating and empowering the self, not wallowing in guilt or self-denial. It’s about pursuing one’s own desires and goals, while respecting the rights and freedoms of others,” says Peter H. Gilmore, author of The Satanic Scriptures.

The Church of Satan takes a libertarian approach to politics and society, emphasizing individual rights and freedoms above all else. According to the Church of Satan’s website, “Satanists believe in free will, self-preservation and autonomy.” This means that the church is opposed to authoritarianism, censorship and other forms of control that limit individual expression and freedom. So if you’re sick of the government telling you what to do and think, maybe it’s time to join the Satanist movement.

Satan Exulting Over Eve, a painting of a well-muscled man with a shield, spear and dragonlike wings flying over a naked Eve, wrapped in a giant snake, by William Blake

Satan Exulting Over Eve by William Blake, 1795

3. The Church of Satan doesn’t require specific rituals or practices — but orgies are OK, it that’s your thing.

Unlike many other religious and spiritual organizations, the Church of Satan doesn’t require its members to engage in specific rituals or practices. Satanists are free to choose their own path and approach. However, the Church of Satan does offer resources and guidance for those who want to participate in Satanic rituals or ceremonies, including baptisms, weddings and even orgies (releasing lust is seen as an essential need).

Illustration of the Devil wearing a black coat, with clawed hands reaching out and spouting flames

Devil worshippers are everywhere — and they’re coming for your children! That was what some people believed in the ’80s, during the Satanic Panic. Thankfully, Wally’s parents still let him play D&D.

4. The Church has been embroiled in numerous controversies, including the so-called Satanic Panic.

The Church of Satan has faced controversy and opposition from mainstream society since its inception. Some people have accused the Church of promoting violence and immorality, while others have labeled it a dangerous cult. However, the Church of Satan has consistently maintained that it’s a legitimate religious organization that promotes personal freedom and individualism, and has even won legal battles in defense of its rights.

In the 1980s and ’90s, the Church of Satan became embroiled in what was dubbed the Satanic Panic, a wave of hysteria that swept across the United States and other countries. During this time, many people believed that Satanic cults were operating in secret, engaging in human sacrifice, ritual abuse and other horrific acts. While there was no real evidence to support these claims, the Church of Satan was frequently targeted and was blamed for influencing the behavior of alleged cult members, including brainwashed youth.

Black statue of goat-headed demon Baphomet, with two children looking adoringly up into his face

The Satanic Temple is a much more political group than the Church of Satan. They fought to have a statue of the demon Baphomet placed outside the Arkansas State Capitol next to a sculpture of the 10 Commandments as a protest against the lack of a separation of church and state.

5. The Church of Satan shouldn’t be confused with the Satanic Temple — the group behind the Baphomet statue in Arkansas.

While the Church of Satan and the Satanic Temple share some similarities in terms of their general beliefs and philosophies, they are distinct organizations with different leadership, history and goals.

The Satanic Temple, founded in 2013, has a more politically active and socially engaged mission. It uses the symbol of Satan as a tool to challenge authority, promote religious freedom and individual liberties, and advocate for social justice and progressive values. The Satanic Temple is organized as a nonprofit and engages in various campaigns, such as advocating for reproductive rights and opposing government-sanctioned displays of religion.

In 2018, the Satanic Temple wanted a bronze statue of Baphomet, a deity with a goat’s head and a human body, to be placed next to a monument of the 10 Commandments on the grounds of the Arkansas State Capitol.

While the statue was ultimately never installed due to a legal dispute, the controversy sparked a heated debate over the separation of church and state and the role of religious expression in public spaces. The temple’s involvement in the statue project once again highlighted the organization’s commitment to free speech and individual rights, and raised important questions about the limits of religious expression in the public sphere.

“We are not merely fighting to install this statue in Arkansas, we are fighting for the constitutional rights of all Americans,” Lucien Greaves, co-founder of the Satanic Temple, told NPR.

Despite their differences, both the Church of Satan and the Satanic Temple share a commitment to individual freedom, critical thinking and opposition to oppressive authority. They also both seek to challenge the dominant religious and moral values of society, and promote a more nuanced and rational understanding of the human experience.

Satan in His Original Glory: ‘Thou Wast Perfect Till Iniquity Was Found in Thee’ by William Blake, circa 1805

Speak of the Devil

The Church of Satan is more than just a bunch of weirdos chanting in black robes (though, if you see some of their pictures on their website, that seems to be a part of their ceremonies). It’s a legitimate religious organization that promotes individualism, free thought and personal freedom. While it may not be for everyone, the Church of Satan is certainly not the sinister cult that many people make it out to be. Whether you’re a hardcore Satanist or just a curious outsider, the Church of Satan is a fascinating and provocative institution that deserves to be taken seriously. 

Stop worrying about centuries-old moral codes? Do what’s right for you — so long as you don’t hurt others? That all sounds pretty heavenly to me. 

So why not join the dark side and see what all the fuss is about? Who knows — you might just find your true calling as a card-carrying member of the Church of Satan. –Wally

When Did Jesus Become God? 5 Startling Findings in the Gospels

Matthew, Mark, Luke and John offer differing views of Christ’s divinity. Some say he became divine at his baptism, others that he has always been one with God. Plus: Did the idea of the Virgin Mary come from a misunderstanding?

Christ on the cross surrounded by a crowd of soldiers, women, angels and the Devil, with a skull in the open earth

Jesus was crucified and came to be viewed as divine after his resurrection. But as time went on, the Gospel writers altered this view, offering different takes on when Jesus became one with God.

Icon of the Crucifixion by Andreas Pavias, second half of the 15th century

What did the earliest Christians believe? The first writings about Jesus reveal that his original followers thought that he became divine upon his resurrection

But that’s not a belief shared in all of the books of the New Testament. In fact, there was hardly a consensus among early followers. “Different Christians in different churches in different regions had different views of Jesus, almost from the get-go,” writes Bart D. Ehrman in the 2014 book How Jesus Became God: The Exaltation of a Jewish Preacher From Galilee

If Jesus claimed to be equal with God,
wouldn’t the earlier Gospels have mentioned it?

Here are five surprising findings revealed in a study of the Gospels.

Icon of Jesus being baptized by John the Baptist in the River Jordan

Early Christians believed Jesus became divine upon his resurrection — but in the earliest Gospel, Mark, the timeline had been moved back to his baptism.

Theophany, an icon of the Baptism of the Lord, 20th century

1. The Gospel of Mark doesn’t mention that Mary was a virgin, and declares that Jesus became divine only after being baptized. 

According to Mark, Jesus was fully human up until the point that John the Baptist baptizes him. Once this happens, the Spirit of God descends as a dove and a voice from the heavens declares, “You are my beloved son, in you I am well pleased” (Mark 1:9-11). 

It is only after this has happened that Jesus begins his own ministry, now one with God, and is able to perform miracles (walk on water, raise the dead), cast out demons and forgive sins.  

Jesus is baptized by John the Baptist while two angels look on

The author of Luke literally changed the words of God because the earlier view that Jesus became divine after being baptized had become a heresy.

The Baptism of Christ by Domenico Ghirlandaio, 1490

2. A passage in Luke was changed from its original to downplay the statement that Jesus became the Son of God at his baptism.

We don’t have any original documents of the New Testament. What we do have are copies made centuries later — many of which have been altered and differ from each other. One such passage about Jesus’ baptism in Luke tweaks what God says. “But in several of our old witnesses to the text, the voice says something else,” Ehrman writes. “It quotes Psalm 2:7: ‘You are my Son, today I have begotten you.’” 

Why make this change? Ehrman says that “when scribes were copying the texts of Luke in later centuries, the view that Jesus was made the Son [of God] at the baptism was considered not just inadequate, but heretical.” Jesus was always divine, and any other teaching needed to be suppressed — even if that’s what early Christians believed.

The Virgin Mary gives birth to Baby Jesus while Joseph helps and barn animals look on

What if Mary wasn’t a virgin? The earliest mentions of her don’t say anything of the sort — and the concept only sprung up in Matthew with a bad translation.

The Creation of Man by Natalie Lennard, 2017

3. The Gospel of Matthew mentions the virgin birth — but this is a misinterpretation of an early prophecy.

The book of the Old Testament prophet Isaiah declares, “A virgin shall conceive and bear a son, and his name shall be called Immanuel” (Isaiah 7:14). Never mind that Jesus isn’t actually called Immanuel; the author must have made the connection because the name translates to “God Is With Us.” Turns out the quote isn’t actually about the coming messiah at all. 

To top it off, Matthew mentions the virgin birth because of a bad translation. The author read a Greek translation of Isaiah many centuries later. The original Hebrew word, alma, means “young woman” but it was translated with the Greek parthenos, which carries the connotation of a young woman who has never had sex. It’s this misinterpretation that leads Ehrman and other biblical scholars to believe that this is the origin of Mary becoming the Virgin. 

Outsider art of Jesus with stars, the cross, lightning and white flowers

As time when on, Jesus’ divinity got earlier and earlier, until the last Gospel, John, states that he had always been one with God.

Jesus Christ by Cathy Dobson, 1994

4. It’s not until John, the latest of the Gospels, that Jesus is declared to have always existed as an equal to God.

The author of John doesn’t hold that Jesus was exalted into a divine state; he is the same as God and was his human incarnation on Earth for a few decades. This is the view of Jesus held today by most Christians — but it’s certainly not what his earliest followers, including the 12 Disciples, believed. As previously mentioned, they thought that Jesus became divine only after his resurrection and later ascension into Heaven. 

Jesus and God in the clouds surrounded by angel heads with a dove and cross between them

The Gospel of John declares that Jesus is the Word of God and was essential to Creation. The text deliberately calls to mind the opening lines of Genesis.

The ceiling fresco of Chiesa di Sant’Orsola in Como, Italy, painted by Giovanni Domenico Caresana, 1616

5. An even higher view of Christ is found in the Gospel of John: that Jesus is the Word of God — and, as such, is responsible for creating the world. 

The Gospel of John is the latest of the four, written in Greek 60 or so years after Jesus died, in a different part of the world — Ephesus, in modern-day Turkey. 

“For John,” Ehrman writes, “Jesus was an equal with God and even shared his name and his glory in his preincarnate state.”

Take John 5:17-18, one of many examples: “This was why the Jews sought all the more to kill him, because not only was he breaking the Sabbath, but he was also calling God his own Father, thereby making himself equal to God.”

Much discussion has taken place around the so-called Prologue of John, the first 18 verses of the book. It presents the most elevated view of Jesus’ divinity imaginable: “even before he appeared, he was the Logos of God himself, a being who was God, the one through whom the entire universe was created,” Ehrman explains. 

But if that was the case, and Jesus made such claims about himself, wouldn’t the earlier Gospels have mentioned it? There’s nothing to be found in Matthew, Mark or Luke, however. 

Icon of Jesus surrounded by the symbols of the four Gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John

The four Gospel writers all have their own take on when Jesus became God.

Christ in mandorla with the Evangelists, from the Reichenau Illumination, early 11th century

Christians today tend not to take such a close look at the Gospels, not noticing the discrepancies and not aware of the historical evidence. It’s shocking to think that the form of Christianity practiced today doesn’t align with some of the views of the Four Gospels. John’s view of Jesus as one with (but somehow distinct from) God the Father has won out. But it seems as if it could easily have gone another way. –Wally

What Did the Earliest Christians Believe?

The original views of Christ differ significantly from current beliefs. No virgin birth, no divine status during his lifetime — instead, Jesus was a mortal like the rest of us, until God decided to resurrect him and he became the Son of God.

The resurrected Jesus, naked except for a white sheet, emerges, floating from his tomb amid piles of bodies

The first Christians didn’t believe that Jesus had been born of a virgin or was already divine. He was a typical human until God resurrected him.

The Resurrection by James Tissot, circa 1890

How can we know what the earliest Christians believed when the first writings about him are from 20 years after his death? 

Scholars turn to what’s called preliterary sources — that is, snippets of text, whether they’re hymns or creeds of faith, that have been inserted into later books of the Bible. You can tell they’re most likely earlier oral traditions that have been added because they not only use terminology found nowhere else in the works, but they also often present different theological views. 

For instance, in Romans 1:3-4, Paul describes Jesus as he “who was descended from the seed of David according to the flesh, who was appointed Son of God in power according to the Spirit of holiness by his resurrection from the dead.”

The first part expresses a long-held belief by Jesus’ followers: that he was the promised messiah from the line of King David. This is a surprising inclusion for Paul, the earliest Christian author; nowhere else does he emphasize Jesus’ messiahship. 

The second part of the Bible verse holds a key element of early Christian belief: Jesus became the Son of God at his resurrection. A similar snippet from Acts 13:32-33 posits the same view, even though that’s in stark contrast to what the author later writes (and is currently part of the Christian faith) — namely that Jesus was divine from the moment of his conception.

There is no talk about Jesus being born of a virgin and certainly no talk of him being divine during his lifetime.
— Bart D. Ehrman, “How Jesus Became God”
Jesus, in a white robe, ascends up to Heaven amid a glowing light, cherubs and astonished viewers

Jesus was said to have been resurrected and, some time after, ascended into Heaven to be with God.

The Ascension by Benjamin West, 1801

What’s most striking is that “there is no talk about Jesus being born of a virgin and certainly no talk of him being divine during his lifetime,” writes Bart D. Ehrman in How Jesus Became God: The Exaltation of a Jewish Preacher From Galilee, published in 2014. “He is a human figure, possibly a messiah. But then at a critical point of his existence, he is elevated from his previous lowly existence down here with us, the other mere mortals, to sit at God’s right hand in a position of honor, power and authority.”

Ehrman emphasizes the importance of this act: “the man Jesus is showered with divine favors beyond anyone’s wildest dreams, honored by God to an unbelievable extent, elevated to a divine status on a level with God himself, sitting at his right hand.”

This belief helped give a positive spin to a man whose followers must have been disheartened that their messiah didn’t destroy their oppressors but was instead tortured and executed by them. It certainly wasn’t what any of them was expecting of their hero. 

But Jesus’ “resurrection confirmed for them that even though he had not conquered his political enemies — the way the messiah was supposed to — God had showered his special favor on him by raising him from the dead,” Ehrman writes. 

The resurrected Jesus emerges from a tomb with angels and surprised guards

Early Christians thought that Jesus was indeed their messiah despite having been crucified. God resurrected him and made him his adopted son and heir — with all the power and glory that involved.

The Resurrection of Christ by Rafael, 1502

Adopted Sons

To the people of the time, there wasn’t any stigma attached to being an adopted son — in fact, quite the opposite. In Ancient Rome, the adopted son was the chosen heir. “He was made great because he had demonstrated the potential for greatness, not because of the accident of his birth,” Ehrman explains. 

Take Julius Caesar. He had a son, Caesarion, with Cleopatra — but not too many people have heard of him. Instead, it’s his nephew and adopted son, Octavian, who has a major place in history: He went on to become Augustus, the first emperor of the Roman Empire.

So when the earliest Christians talked about Jesus being God’s adopted son, they were saying this: “He received all of God’s power and privileges. He could defy death. He could forgive sins. He could be the future judge of the earth. He could rule with divine authority,” Ehrman writes. “He was for all intents and purposes God.” –Wally

The Marvelous Murals of the Sanctuary of Atotonilco

No surprise that this UNESCO site has been dubbed the “Sistine Chapel of Mexico.” Pair it with La Gruta hot springs for an easy day trip from San Miguel de Allende. 

Murals from the life of Christ, including his resurrection, at Atotonilco

Most of the murals at Atotonilco depict scenes from Jesus’ life, including his resurrection (top) and the Last Supper (just below).

We knew we wanted to pair our trip to La Gruta Spa with a visit to the Sanctuary of Atotonilco (a tough one to pronounce, but try, “Ah-toe-toe-neel-ko”). 

The trouble was, we didn’t know how we would get there. To get to La Gruta, we had to bum a ride from someone who works at our first stop of the day, the quirky Chapel of Jimmy Ray, because we couldn’t get any cell service to call a cab or Uber.

Christ appears to the women in a fresco at Atotonilco

Most of the murals at Atotonilco show scenes from the life of Christ, including the resurrection. The style is known as Mexican Folk Baroque.

I looked on Google Maps and determined that the church was only a 15-minute walk away. And once we got past the somewhat busy road that runs in front of the hot springs complex along a highway, we were able to walk on a peaceful cobblestone sidewalk. In fact, we started to see signs indicating that this is a pilgrimage route. So we followed them along a quiet road, Calle Principal, through a canopy of trees, and into a small village, where the church of Atotonilco can be found amid a few businesses and market stalls. 

Flower detail covered with paintings from the Bible at Atotonilco

Almost every inch of the walls and ceilings are covered in murals that date back to the mid-1700s.

Pilgrims complete their journeys on their knees, wear hair shirts, tie cacti to their chests and wear crowns of thorns.

Atotonilco has also become a hotspot for flagellants — religious devotees who whip themselves to mimic the pain Jesus experienced en route to his crucifixion.
White exterior of the Sanctuary of Atotonilco, with red, white and green banners

The façade isn’t much — the wonders lie within.

Statue of Hildago in the plaza in front of the Sanctuary of Atotonilco

A statue of Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, a Catholic priest who, while waving a banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe taken from the Sanctuary of Atotonilco, delivered an impassioned speech for the people to break the yoke of Spanish oppression — and launched the Mexican War of Independence

From the — dare I say — bland exterior, you’d never guess at the gorgeous artwork inside. The façade consists of white walls devoid of decorations, aside from a window here and there. The wall around the church makes it feel like it’s more of a fortress than a sanctuary.

Purple and pink plastic chairs at lavishly painted church of Atotonilco

The main church was closed off when we visited — and we were surprised to see that it had plastic chairs instead of pews.

When we went, there was a crowd of tourists, mostly from Mexico, all pressing into the small space. For some reason, the church itself was roped off, with pink and purple plastic chairs in lieu of pews, and the altar visible in the distance. 

Murals of the life of Christ at Atotonilco church in Mexico

The frescoes were painted over three decades by a local artist, Miguel Antonio Martínez de Pocasangre.

There are supposedly quite a few chapels and niches inside the structure, but we were only able to go into the Capilla del Santo Sepulcro, or the Chapel of the Holy Burial — for a small fee. A couple of dioramas depict Jesus’ death on the cross. But it’s the intricate, gorgeous paintings, created by a local artist, Miguel Antonio Martínez de Pocasangre, that prompted UNESCO to declare this a World Heritage Site in 2008.

Mural of John the Baptist baptizing Jesus at Santuario de Atotonilco

John the Baptist baptizes his cousin Jesus in the Jordan River in this mural at Atotonilco.

Mural of Judas, with a demon on his back, betraying Christ while a dog barks at Santuario de Atotonilco

Judas, shown with a demon straddling his back, betrays Jesus for 30 pieces of silver, while a dog barks at him.

Painted ceiling at Santuario de Atotonilco showing angels and the Burning Bush talking to Moses

Most of the murals at Atotonilco show the life of Christ — though at least one is from the Old Testament of the Burning Bush talking to Moses.

The frescoes cover the main events of Christ’s life — his baptism by John the Baptist, the Last Supper, Judas’ betrayal, the walk to his crucifixion, his resurrection outside his tomb — though I did spot at least one Old Testament story as well: Moses and the Burning Bush. And there are words everywhere — even long passages of text. The walls are a Bible come to life. 

Holy water basin at Atotonilco by mural representing Europe

A holy water font surrounded by de Pocasangre’s murals

Painting of indigenous man holding crown to symbolize America at Atotonilco Sanctuary

An indigenous ruler represents the Americas near the entrance of the church.

Paintings on the wall of Atotonilco Church, with an angel and elephant and words in Spanish

The walls of the sanctuary are like a book come to life — there are entire paragraphs in Spanish throughout.

The color palette is minimal — mostly salmon and tan, with some blue, brown, gold and bits of green acting as leaves on the curlicue motif, all set against the white walls of the church. 

White exterior of el Santuario de Atotonilco

A local priest, Father Neri, had a dream where Jesus told him to build a church. Neri did so, founding el Santuario de Atotonilco.

A Dream Come True

Atotonilco means Place of the Hot Waters in the local indigenous tongue. Father Luis Felipe Neri de Alaro had been preaching in the nearby town of Dolores but had fallen ill and decided to check out the curative powers of the thermal springs. 

While dozing under a mesquite tree one day, Father Neri had a dream in which Jesus wore the crown of thorns and carried the cross. Christ said that he wanted the spot where the priest was napping to become a center of penitence and prayer. Neri awoke, filled with divine inspiration, and did just that, founding el Santuario de Atotonilco in 1740. Another possible factor in determining to build the church here: The site was used in fornication rites among the indigenous peoples of the area, and Neri wanted to stop this practice.

Construction continued over the next 36 years. Neri commissioned de Pocasangre to paint the now-famous murals. The artist’s style is known as Mexican Folk Baroque — a blending of local traditions and the ornate flourishes of Flemish masters. 

Statue of el Señor de la Columna, Jesus with a bloody back, behind glass at Atotonilco

The statue of el Señor de la Columna shows Jesus with a bloody back from being whipped. It’s paraded through town in a procession held the week before Easter.

Hair Shirts, Crowns of Thorns and Flagellation 

Meanwhile, Neri wanted to honor Christ’s wish in the dream he had — namely, that the sanctuary not just be a place of prayer but one of penitence as well. And Neri’s view of this was of a gruesome, physical variety. 

Murals covering arches at Atotonilco, showing Christ being whipped and carrying the cross

A symbol of flagellants is Christ tied to a column being whipped, as seen at the top of the image.

From the church’s origin, it has been a place of pilgrimage, with several weeks each year devoted to rites of penitence, drawing up to 5,000 pilgrims in a single week and 100,000 a year. The attached building consists of dormitories and dining halls to house the influx of pilgrims. 

Behind the church are dormitories and dining halls for the 100,000 pilgrims who visit each year.

And many of these pilgrims are hardcore. They complete their journeys on their knees, wear hair shirts (garments made of rough, uncomfortable cloth), tie spiked nopal cacti to their chests and wear their own crowns of thorns. Atotonilco has also become a hotspot for flagellants — religious devotees who whip themselves to mimic the pain Jesus experienced en route to his crucifixion. 

It would’ve been interesting, to say the least, to have been in the village during one of the times when the flagellants descended upon it. But, alas, the town was quite sleepy when we visited.

Mural-covered archway at entrance of the Sanctuary of Atotonilco

Looking back at the main entrance to the Sanctuary of Atotonilco

Religious frescoes at Atotonilco

In 1994, the frescoes got a refresh — by the same team that worked on restoring the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City.

Columns in a chapel at Atotonilco painted blue and red, with Spanish text and a cross-shaped window above

The sanctuary, with its numerous murals and frescoes, has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Not surprisingly, after 200 years or so, the frescoes had faded. In fact, in 1994, the World Monuments Fund named Atotonilco one of the world’s 100 Most Endangered Monuments, which inspired a major restoration project that same year. The church was in good hands: Some of the team that had worked to restore the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican City helped breathe new life into these frescoes. In addition, the walls were cleaned, the foundations reinforced and a new drainage system installed.

Mural of Jesus feeling a man at Atotonilco church

In the Capilla del Santo Sepulcro, or the Chapel of the Holy Burial, there are scenes of Jesus appearing after his resurrection.

Mural of Jesus appearing the the Disciples after his resurrection at Atotonilco

Jesus shows off his stigmata to prove that he was crucified and yet rose from the dead.

Duke and I did our best to snap some photos and move through the crowd, though the front of the chapel was a popular spot for family photos among the locals. 

Diorama of Christ on the cross with walls entirely covered with murals at Atotonilco

The only area open for tourists when we visited was a side chapel that showed Christ on the cross — a popular spot for family photos.

Diorama of Christ being taken down from the cross with elaborate murals at Atotonilco

Another diorama, this one to the right of the main altar, shows Jesus being taken down from the cross.

Statue of Joseph with baby Jesus on his shoulder by painting of the Shroud of Turin at Atotonilco

A statue of Joseph with baby Jesus on his shoulder, while behind him Veronica shows the veil she used to wipe Christ’s face while he was en route to Calvary to be crucified.

After about half an hour, we decided to head back. We lucked out and saw a taxi passing by as we emerged from the sanctuary. We waved it down and caught a ride back to San Miguel de Allende for a reasonable rate. –Wally

Sign of the Sanctuary of Atotonilco under a tree

Follow the pilgrimage signs to reach the impressive Sanctuary of Atotonilco.

Santuario de Jesús de Nazareno de Atotonilco

Calle Principal s/n
37700 Guanajuato
México


Who Really Wrote the New Testament?

Many, if not most, of the Scriptures were written by people falsely claiming to be the apostles or other leaders of the early Christian church, says biblical scholar Bart D. Ehrman. That means a lot of books of the Bible are actually forgeries.

The book of Mark, like the rest of the Gospels, was written anonymously. Why, then, do we believe they were products of the men that bear their names?

If your answer to any conundrum is, “It’s one of God’s miracles,” then this article is not for you. I seek the truth in facts — fully admitting that as we gain more and more knowledge, our previous beliefs can shift. 

I don’t subscribe to the school of thought that blind faith can solve any mystery. I think about what is scientifically feasible, what archaeology and history research reveals, and base my judgments from there. Virgins do not give birth; men are not raised from the dead; and illiterate peasants do not write well-argued religious tracts.

Most of the apostles were illiterate and could not in fact write.

They could not have left an authoritative writing if their souls depended on it.
— Bart D. Ehrman, “Forged”

All that being said, this post is not about my beliefs. These are the findings of Bart D. Ehrman in his 2011 work, Forged: Writing in the Name of God — Why the Bible’s Authors Are Not Who We Think They Are

“Most of the apostles were illiterate and could not in fact write,” Ehrman declares. “They could not have left an authoritative writing if their souls depended on it.” 

Cover of the book Forged: Writing in the Name of God — Why the Bible’s Authors Are Not Who We Think They Are and its author, Bart D. Ehrman

Bart D. Ehrman was once an evangelical Christian who took everything in the Bible literally. Now he’s a biblical scholar whose works, like Forged, offer shocking truths about the supposed word of God.

So who wrote the New Testament, then? Most of the texts were composed by people with extensive schooling — that is, undoubtedly, members of the upper class elite.

Why would someone lie about writing these works? “Quite simply, it was to get a hearing for their views,” Ehrman explains. “If you were an unknown person, but had something really important to say and wanted people to hear you — not so they could praise you, but so they could learn the truth — one way to make that happen was to pretend you were someone else, a well-known author, a famous figure, an authority.”

Here are four shocking revelations about who actually wrote the New Testament (or, perhaps I should say who didn’t write it):

Peter and Paul had differing views of Christianity, but both were chosen as the “authors” of forged books in the Bible to lend authority to the writings.

1. Ancient writers forged writings to address infighting among early Christian groups.

Many people think of Christianity as always having been a well-defined, cohesive religion — as if the books of the New Testament were handed down from on high like the tablets of the 10 Commandments Moses received. But the truth is, the fledgling religion was a big old mess for hundreds of years.

“Christians in the early centuries of the church were in constant conflict and felt under attack from all sides,” Ehrman writes. “They were at odds with Jews, who considered their views to be an aberrant and upstart perversion of the ancestral traditions of Israel. They were at odds with pagan peoples and governments, who considered them a secretive and unauthorized religion that posed a danger to the state. And they were virulently at odds with each other, as different Christian teachers and groups argued that they and they alone had a corner on the truth and other Christian teachers and groups flat-out misunderstood the truths that Christ had proclaimed during his time on earth.” 

So, numerous writers turned to forgery to give more weight to their arguments — and nowhere was that more prevalent than among varying factions of early Christians. Those works favored by church leaders centuries after Jesus were chosen to become the New Testament. Those that were deemed heretical (such as, say, the Gnostic Gospel of Judas), were not only left out but hunted down and destroyed in an effort to totally obliterate their teachings.

Icon of Saint Jude

The book of Jude was written too late to have been authored by Jesus’ brother.

The New Testament book of Jude, for example, claims to be written by Jesus’ brother. But the author is talking about false teachers (which he strangely calls “waterless souls” and “fruitless trees, twice dead, uprooted”) who have infiltrated the religion and need to be rooted out — something that didn't happen until much later than Jude’s lifetime.

Icon of St. James

James was the head of the first Christian church, but couldn’t have written the book of the New Testament that bears his name.

And the book of James was supposedly penned by another of Jesus’ brothers, this one the head of the first Christian church, in Jerusalem. But not only was this book written after James’ death, the author is fluent in Greek and its rhetoric. Even if the timing worked out, the historical James, Ehrman says, was an Aramaic-speaking peasant who almost certainly never learned to read.

Painting of Saint Peter

The New Testament itself declares that Peter was illiterate — so how the heck could he have written all those Bible books?

2. Peter was an illiterate fisherman who died years before 1 and 2 Peter were written.

Like the book of James, the book of 1 Peter was written by someone who was very well educated, spoke Greek and practiced rhetoric. 

What do we know of Peter from the Bible? He was a fisherman from the town of Capernaum in Galilee. Archeological and historical records reveal that “Peter’s town was a backwoods Jewish village made up of hand-to-mouth laborers who did not have an education,” Ehrman writes. “Everyone spoke Aramic. Nothing suggests that anyone could speak Greek. Nothing suggests that anyone in town could write. As a lower-class fisherman, Peter would have started work as a young boy and never attended school.”

In fact, in Acts 4:13, Peter and his companion John are described as agrammatoi, a Greek word meaning “unlettered” — that is, illiterate.

There’s also the issue of timing. Tradition holds that Peter was martyred in Rome under Nero in 64 CE. But the author of 1 Peter alludes to Rome as “Babylon” — that is, the destroyer of Jerusalem and the Temple. The Romans didn’t destroy Jerusalem until 70 CE, six years after Peter died. 

The Last Judgement by Michelangelo showing the Second Coming of Jesus

Peter, like all of the apostles, believed that Jesus’ Second Coming would take place during his lifetime.

In addition, the author of 2 Peter comes up with a defense as to why Jesus hasn’t returned as the Messiah. To God, “one day is as a thousand years and a thousand years are as one day.” So time is relative and just be patient.

But such an argument wouldn’t have been necessary for a disciple writing so soon after Jesus’ crucifixion. The Second Coming was predicted “within this generation” (Mark 13:30) and before the disciples “tasted death” (Mark 9:1). At the time Peter lived, Jesus could have still been right on schedule.

Icon of St. Paul

Paul actually did write some of the books of the New Testament — well, seven of the 13 attributed to him.

3. Good news! More than half of the letters attributed to Paul in the New Testament are authentic.

That means, of course, that six of the 13 are forgeries, though. Almost all biblical scholars agree that these seven letters were indeed written by the apostle Paul: Romans, 1 and 2 Corinthians, Galatians, Philippians, 1 Thessalonians and Philemon. 

In the other books of the Bible attributed to Paul, there are words and phrases and writing styles not found in those that have been verified. And there are points made about Paul’s religious philosophy that just don’t jibe with what we know about his beliefs. For instance, the man was anti-marriage (even though he himself got hitched). In 1 Corinthians 7, Paul preaches that people should remain single. Why worry about procreation when the Rapture is going to happen any day?

But in the Pastorals (as 1 and 2 Timothy and Titus are referred to), “Paul” is insisting that church leaders be married. Side note: Why has this not become an argument to end the tradition of priests being celibate?

St. Paul writes from prison

Scholars agree that at least a couple of the letters Paul wrote while under house arrest in Rome were actually penned by him.

Which brings us to another problem of timing: When Paul was alive, there weren’t any church leaders. His view was that every Christian was endowed with a supernatural gift (healing, say, or speaking in tongues) and all were equal: “In Christ there is neither slave nor free, neither male nor female,” he declares in Galatians 3:28.

Paul believed Jesus’ Second Coming would happen unexpectedly, “like a thief in the night” (1 Thessalonians 5:2), and he would be around to experience it. It wasn’t until a generation or more later, when people were still waiting, that some found it necessary to think more long term and offer up excuses. 

“The author of 2 Thessalonians, claiming to be Paul, argues that the end is not, in fact, coming right away,” Ehrman explains. “There will be some kind of political or religious uprising and rebellion, and an Antichrist-like figure will appear who will take his seat in the Temple of Jerusalem and declare himself to be God.” 

How could the same Paul declare in 1 Thessalonians that Jesus’ return would happen soon and suddenly, and then in 2 Thessalonians renege on that and state that a whole series of events had to take place first? 

And in Ephesians, there’s also an issue with Paul’s biography. The writer includes himself as someone who, before meeting Jesus, was guilty of “doing the will of the flesh and senses.” But that doesn’t fit with the man who says, in undisputed letters, he had been “blameless” when it came to the “righteousness of the law” (Philippians 3:4-5).

An angel is said to have whispered the words of the Gospel to St. Matthew. But it turns out there’s evidence Matthew didn’t actually write the book of the Bible named for him.

4. One-third of the authors of the books of the New Testament — including the Gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John — were actually anonymous. 

In fact, those texts remained anonymous for about a century. It wasn’t until around 180-185 CE that the Gospels were definitely named for the first time, by a church father and heresy hunter named Irenaeus. 

And how did those authors get chosen? To lend the Gospels authority (and help assure they made the cut when choosing what would go into the New Testament), the writers were declared to be two disciples and two close associates of disciples. 

Matthew, for instance, was a Jew, and tradition held that he had written a Gospel. So the first was assigned to him since it was deemed the most “Jewish.” 

Painting of St Mark with book

Church leaders ascribed authors of the Gospels about 100 years after they were written — anonymously, no less. There’s no evidence Mark actually wrote the book that bears his name, for example.

The second Gospel was determined to be by Mark on the scantest of evidence; he seems to have been chosen because of his connection to Peter. 

St. Luke writing in a painting

When you hear the reasons the Gospels were assigned authors, like the book of Luke, you’ll realize how flimsy the evidence really is.

The author of Luke also wrote the book of Acts, where he proclaims to be a companion of Paul’s. “Because Acts stresses that Christianity succeeded principally among Gentiles, the author himself may have been a Gentile,” Ehrman writes. “Since there was thought to be a Gentile named Luke among Paul’s companions, he was assigned the Third Gospel.” So it goes.

Painting of St John writing

John, the son of Zebedee, was assigned the Gospel with his name by process of elimination.

John, meanwhile, was supposed to be written by “the Beloved Disciple” it mentions (John 20: 20-24). In early tradition, the closest apostles to Jesus were Peter, James and John. Peter was named elsewhere in the book, and James had already been martyred. So that left John, the son Zebedee, as the author of the fourth Gospel.

Not the most convincing of evidence — but the Gospels couldn’t remain anonymous if they were going to become part of the Bible.

But wait — there’s more. In addition, Ehrman writes, “The anonymous book of Hebrews was assigned to Paul, even though numbers of early Christian scholars realized that Paul did not write it, as scholars today agree. And three short anonymous writings with some similarities to the Fourth Gospel were assigned to the same author, and so were called 1, 2 and 3 John. None of these books claims to be written by the authors to whom they were ultimately assigned.”


For biblical literalists, this evidence must be disturbing. Not only does it show that the New Testament contains lies, it makes us question the very beliefs at the core of what we know as Christianity. 

That’s something to take up with God — or, perhaps, Ehrman. As he writes, “The use of deception to promote the truth may well be considered one of the most unsettling ironies of the early Christian traditions.” –Wally


A Travel Guide to Qatar Ahead of the World Cup

Is it safe for gay tourists to travel to this Muslim country? What is there to do in Qatar aside from the big event? How expensive is it? Here’s what you need to know before you go to Qatar. 

On the field of Al Wakrah Stadium in Qatar

Al Wakrah Stadium is one of eight that the government of Qatar built to host the FIFA World Cup 2022.

The gulf state of Qatar is set for an influx of tourists this winter as the World Cup lands on its shore. There’s been a debate about how to pronounce the country’s name, but I’ve found you’re safe going with “Ka-tar.” 

It’s an unusual, even controversial, location for the World Cup; what’s considered the most popular sporting competition in the world is played during the summer months and has been ever since 1930 — but the heat in Qatar means it has been shifted to November. Also, the host country usually has a record of qualifications for the event, but Qatar has never been in the finals until now. 

Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir, or ruler, of Qatar, said LGBTQ+ visitors would be welcomed to the World Cup, but they must “respect our culture.”
Al Janoub Stadium vagina-like exterior

Architect Zaha Hadid thought that claims that her Al Janoub Stadium resembles a vagina are “ridiculous.” You decide.

Still, with around 2.1 million tourists visiting annually and 1.8 million tickets sold for the competition, it promises to make 2022 a record-breaking year. The event is proving to be so popular the South China Morning Post reports that people are being offered to stay in tents in the desert, as the 30,000 hotel rooms have been booked up already.

The World Cup happens every four years and features 32 of the world's best soccer (or football to most of the world) teams. The United States will be there, joining England, Wales and Iran, and are expected to progress to the knockout stages. They're down in the overall ranking in the current Ladbrokes odds, but fans will still head out in large numbers, full of expectation. 

Qatar University Stadium aerial view

The Qatar University Stadium has been expanded to accommodate more fans in preparation for the World Cup.

If you’re heading to Qatar, you might not know what to expect from your team, but here’s how to prepare for whatever greets you off the field. The country is hoping that its new air-conditioned stadiums, hotels and museums will boost local and international tourism long after the games have ended. In fact, it has spent billions on infrastructure — including eight stadiums — in the 11 years since winning the bid to host.

Muslim men walking in front of the Souq Waqif

Qatar is a Muslim country where most men wear headdresses and long white garments called thobes, like this trio in front of Souq Waqif, a traditional marketplace in Doha.

Religion

It’s important to understand that Qatar is an Islamic country, and there are certain aspects of its culture with which you must be familiar. For instance, drinking in public is banned, but there is a level of tolerance within the country. Alcohol is permitted in some places. 

Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir of Qatar, says gays are welcome — just don’t be too gay.

And in a country where homosexuality is illegal many gay tourists are wondering if they’d be safe attending the World Cup. Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir, or ruler, of Qatar, said LGBTQ+ visitors would be welcomed to the World Cup, but they must “respect our culture.”

Pink building and waterway in the Qanat Quartier of Doha

The Qanat Quartier in Doha has been compared to Venice.

Transport in Qatar

Getting around Qatar is easy, with Karwa taxis being widely available and reasonably priced. Apps such as Careem and Uber also operate in Qatar, so you should never be stuck without a ride. In addition, there's a metro network with three lines; the red line connects Hamad International Airport with the city center and is useful for new arrivals.

Skyscrapers of Doha, Qatar at night

Qatar is a country where you can get by quite cheaply — or you can travel in luxury.

Value

Qatar has two sides: One is very expensive and the other not. If you wish to take in top restaurants and luxurious hotels, the prices are sky-high. However, you can visit Qatar on a budget with ease. The World Cup might raise prices, but usually, the winter season sees hotel rooms available for around $60 per night. Eating out can also be done cheaply; food courts and street vendors can provide great food for as little as $20 per day.

City of Doha at night as seen through arches at the Museum of Islamic Art

The nighttime skyline of Doha as seen through the arches of the Museum of Islamic Art

Qatar Attractions

Visitors who venture outside the World Cup might be surprised to find a thriving art scene in Doha, the capital city. The Museum of Islamic Art is a must-see. It's a fantastic example of local architecture with a vast collection of glasswork, paintings and ancient manuscripts. Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art is also worth a visit. 

Museum of Islamic Art in Doha with boat

The Museum of Islamic Art in Doha was designed by I.M. Pei, the same dude responsible for the pyramid in front of the Louvre.

There are also three new museums being built, including the Lusail Museum, which will boast the world’s most extensive collection of Eastern paintings, drawings, photography and sculptures.

Khor Al-Adaid sand dunes from above

Khor Al-Adaid, with its sweeping dunes, is also known as the Inland Sea.

There are plenty of natural attractions, too. The Al Thakira mangroves in the north and the salt flats along the coast are both natural beauties, while Khor Al-Adaid, the Inland Sea, is another highlight visitors shouldn’t miss. And the “Singing Sand Dunes” on the southwest edge of Doha are a great day trip for those wanting a desert safari. A favorite activity there is dune bashing: off-road driving in an SUV with wide tires that slide across the sand as if on ice.

Aerial view of the Pearl in Doha

The World Cup is undeniably changing the country of Doha, adding infrastructure and attractions — making it more of a travel destination.

Beyond the World Cup

Those traveling to Qatar solely for soccer won’t see the best of the country: hotels will be booked solid, transport networks stretched and crowds intense. However, if you come early or remain after the tournament, you'll find a beautiful country that’s more tolerant than the media has suggested, waiting to welcome you with open arms. –Max Hopper

Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City

A tour of this Colonial Baroque Catholic church built for the Discalced Carmelites in one of CDMX’s most charming neighborhoods.

Man in front of Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City

Wally’s a bit obsessed with the domes of Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel in Mexico City.

Those domes! Those wondrous brightly tiled domes! I didn’t want to stop looking at them. There was something captivating about their faded glory. 

We spotted them in our Uber en route to el Bazaar Sábado, the Saturday Market in the charming CDMX colonia (neighborhood) of San Ángel. 

Nuestra Señora del Carmen was built for the strangely named order of Discalced Carmelites (known colloquially as Barefoot Carmelites for their tendency to forgo footwear). 
Saint in niche at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Saint with child in niche at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Interior of Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City

The church was founded for the order of Discalced Carmelites (aka the Barefoot Carmelites).

So, after we finished shopping at the market (and being told we couldn’t drink our beers while walking through the square outside), Duke and I knew we had to explore the church at the base of the hill. And thankfully, unlike in the States, we’ve found churches in Mexico to be unlocked any time we’ve wanted to go in. 

Exterior of Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City

The church is designed in the Baroque Colonial style — with a plain façade and an ornate gilded altarpiece.

The Discalced Carmelites: Barefoot but Not Pregnant 

Design and construction of Nuestra Señora del Carmen was overseen by Fray Andrés de San Miguel between 1615 and 1626 for the strangely named order of Discalced Carmelites (known colloquially as Barefoot Carmelites for their tendency to forgo footwear). The order was established in 1562 by Saint Teresa of Avila, an epileptic Roman Catholic nun. 

The Barefoot Carmelite nuns stayed in their cloisters, “above all to lead a life of unceasing prayer in silence and solitude,” according to their official website

Gate of Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City

There’s more to the Carmen Complex than the church — including mummies!

El Carmen Complex

We weren’t able to wander the entire grounds, which includes a former convent and monastery that’s now a museum (complete with mummies!). 

The property extended quite far, and the scenic orchards are part of what attracted the aristocracy to make the neighborhood its home — giving birth to the colonia of San Ángel. 

The complex was taken over by the government after the War of Reform, which was fought between the Liberals and Conservatives from 1857 and 1860. The lefties won and subsequently greatly diminished the power of the Catholic Church, stripping it of most of its property. The local school was shut down and was used by the town council. Parts of the Carmelite grounds became a prison and barracks. 

The church, also known as the Templo del Carmen de San Ángel, is in the Colonial Baroque style — somehow austere in parts, such as the façade, and yet over-the-top ornate in others (that altarpiece!). 

Altarpiece at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City

The Baroque movement was all about drama — rounded edges and shimmering gold create a dizzying effect.

We spent some time exploring the church and all of its offshoot chapels, trying to be respectful of those praying within. Heavens knows we’ll be back to admire those beautiful domes — and to see the creepy mummies, of course. –Wally

Cherub at altar in Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Cherub in Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Interior of Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Ceiling at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Ceiling at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Ceiling at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Angel statue at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Infant of Prague
Statue of Jesus carrying the cross at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Chapel with San Clemente Flavio in Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Side chapel at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Painting of saint in Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Painting of Christ on the cross in Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Side chapel at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Crucifix and pews in Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Exterior archway at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City
Man on tiled staircase at el Carmen Complex in CDMX

Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Templo del Carmen de San Ángel)

Avenida Revolución s/n
San Ángel
Álvaro Obregón
01000 Ciudad de México
CDMX
México

How to Cast a Wicca Ritual Magic Circle

A ritual to perform before casting Wiccan spells or practicing witchcraft, as well as what you need for your Wiccan altar.

witchcircledance.jpg

Whether you’re a novice or a seasoned practitioner, this is the first thing you should do before casting a spell or conducting a Wiccan ritual. It’s not necessary (that’s the beauty of the religion — you don’t have to do anything), but it can make your magic all the more powerful if you do.

Also, keep in mind that you can modify this based on what you have handy, or the time you have available, or what just feels right to you. I don’t have a lot of space at home, so I often just set up the four candles and skip right to the part where I chant as I light each, invoking the spirits of the Old Ones.

You can also add whatever you want to represent the season or festival. If it’s Samhain, for example, Halloween decorations and some black candles lend an appropriately macabre air to the ritual. And evergreens, mistletoe, holly and Christmas lights add a special touch at Yule. 

Before you start your ritual, you have to set the mood and find the right music. I always play the Twin Peaks soundtrack because I was obsessed with the show when it came out, and the ethereal music by Angelo Badalamenti and Julee Cruise puts me into a trancelike state.

Now you’re ready to work some magic!

creepywitchcircle.png

Casting the Circle

Cleanse the area with a ritual broom.

Use four candles to mark the cardinal points: green for north, yellow for east, red for south and blue for west.

Begin with the north and work clockwise (unless you’re performing black magic, in which you should move counterclockwise or the enticingly named widdershins). Light each of the candles. 

Now take some salt (or some other sort of markers, such as flowers or pine branches), and form a circle, keeping the cardinal point markers inside it.

Light your incense. Lift your athame (ritual dagger) or wand and touch its point to a bowl of water, saying:

I consecrate and cleanse this water that it may be purified and fit to dwell within the sacred circle. 
In the name of the Mother Goddess and the Father God [or the names of specific deities], I consecrate this water.

Visualize your knife or wand blasting away all negativity from the water.

Then touch the point to a bowl of salt, saying: 

I bless this salt that it may be fit to dwell within the sacred circle.
In the name of the Mother Goddess and the Father God, I bless this salt.

Now stand facing north, at the edge of the circle. Hold the knife or wand out at waist level.

Walk slowly around the circle’s perimeter, clockwise (or widdershins if you’re being naughty), charging it with your words and energy. Stretch the energy out, visualizing it forming a complete sphere, half above the ground, half below. 

Say:

Here is the boundary of the circle.
Naught but love shall enter in.
Naught but love shall emerge from within.
Charge this by your powers, Old Ones!

When you arrive back at the north, place your athame or wand on the altar.

Take up the salt and sprinkle it around the circle, beginning and ending in the north, moving clockwise. 

Next, carry the incense around the circle, moving clockwise. 

Finally, sprinkle water around the circle, moving clockwise. 

Sense each of these substances purifying the circle.

The circle is now sealed.

mothershipton.png

Hold aloft your wand at the north edge of the circle, saying:

O Spirit of the North,
Ancient One of Earth,
I call you to attend this circle.
Charge this by your powers, Old Ones!

Visualize a green mist rising and writhing out of the candle’s flame, becoming something of nature. When the spirit is present, lower your wand and move to the east, then raise it again. Say:

O Spirit of the East,
Ancient One of Air,
I call you to attend this circle.
Charge this by your powers, Old Ones!

Visualize a yellow mist rising and writhing out of the candle’s flame, becoming a whirlwind. When the spirit is present, lower your wand and move to the south, then raise it again. Say:

O Spirit of the South,
Ancient One of Fire,
I call you to attend this circle.
Charge this by your powers, Old Ones!

Visualize a red mist rising and writhing out of the candle’s flame, becoming flames. When the spirit is present, lower your wand and move to the west, then raise it again. Say:

O Spirit of the West,
Ancient One of Water,
I call you to attend this circle.
Charge this by your powers, Old Ones!

Visualize a blue mist rising and writhing out of the candle’s flame, becoming a wave. 

The circle breathes and lives around you. The spirits of the elements are present. Feel their energies. Stand still for a moment, visualizing the circle glowing and growing in power. 

The circle is now complete. The Goddess and God, or whatever deities you’d like, may be called and magic wrought. –Wally

Ancient Gods of the Old Testament

Who is Baal? What about Asherah, Dagon, Marduk, Moloch and the other pagan gods of the Bible? And was human sacrifice part of their worship?

Some of these ancient gods, including Molech, who had a built-in baby-burning furnace, are accused of inciting human sacrifice.

Some of these ancient gods, including Molech, who had a built-in baby-burning furnace, are accused of inciting human sacrifice.

My parents were never very religious. But that didn’t stop them from sending me to bible camp in the summer. (It was tons of fun — though we all dreaded the inevitable one-on-one with our counselor, when he’d ask if we had let Jesus into heart. Every year we replied that we thought Jesus was in there but we couldn’t be absolutely sure).

I also went to Catholic school for four years. So, even though I was obsessed with the ancient gods of Greece and Rome, I couldn’t help being influenced by the Bible’s condemnation of the Canaanite deities in the Old Testament. If you asked me about Baal when I was a kid, I’d have told you he was an evil god who was second only to Satan himself.

The god El could very well have been the original conception of the Hebrew God.

It’s right there in the “el” in the name Israel, which is usually translated as “He Who Struggles With God.”

Imagine my surprise years later, when I learned more about the gods that were so maligned in the Bible. They weren’t always the bloodthirsty incarnations of evil they were depicted as. They were simply the deities worshipped by the kingdoms surrounding Israel and Judah. Baal, for instance, was essentially just another Middle Eastern god of fertility. The Old Testament writers disparaged them because they were rivals to their extremely jealous god, Yahweh. (In fact, when God came up with 10 Commandments for his people to follow, he topped the list with, “Thou shalt have no other gods before me.”)

Here are the major ancient deities of the Levant, and how they’re depicted in the Bible.

Adrammelech.png

Adrammelech

Aka: Adramelech, Adar-malik

Meaning of the name: Majestic King

Domain: The sun, a counterpart to Anammelech, the goddess of the moon

Biblical reference: 2 Kings 17:31: The people of the Assyrian city of Sepharvaim were said to burn their children as sacrifices to the god.

Description: This handsome devil has the face of a mule and the plumage of a peacock. He’s also depicted as having a lion’s body with wings and the bearded head of a man.

Strange story: According to Collin de Plancy, author of the Dictionnaire Infernal, Adrammelech is in charge of Satan’s wardrobe.

Asherah.png

Asherah

Aka: Athirat, Ashratu

Meaning of the name: Happy or Upright

Domain: There’s a lot of confusion around this deity. She could be the mother of the gods. In some incarnations, she was a goddess of sexuality or of the mountains. She also could be tied to the sea or the sun.

She might not even be a goddess; asherah seems to refer to cult objects — specifically the consecrated poles used in worship at the time.

Numerous statuettes like this one are tied to the goddess Asherah.

Numerous statuettes like this one are tied to the goddess Asherah.

Biblical reference: 1 Kings 18:19: The goddess’ 400 prophets eat at Jezebel’s table, along with the prophets of Baal.

2 Kings 23:4-7: Josiah had “all the articles” made for Asherah and Baal burned, and the “idolatrous priests” were done away with. The Asherah pole was also set on fire and its ashes spread over the graves of the common people. And the quarters where women did weaving for the goddess were torn down.

Description: Often depicted as a stylized tree

Strange story: She’s connected with Yahweh as a consort — meaning that before the Jews were monotheistic, their God had a wife!

Ashtoreth-Astarte.jpg

Ashtoreth 

Aka: Atar-gatis; connected to Ishtar and Astarte

Meaning of the name: Star

Domain: The moon; supreme goddess of Canaan and female counterpart to Baal

Biblical reference: 1 Samuel 12:10: One of many references to people declaring they will no longer worship the Baals and the Ashtoreths. The use of the plural could indicate that these names were used to speak generally about so-called pagan deities.

The goddess in her Atar-gatis guise has legs as well as a long fish tail.

The goddess in her Atar-gatis guise has legs as well as a long fish tail.

Description: As Atar-gatis, she was a woman with the tail of a fish.

Strange story: As an earlier incarnation, Ishtar, the goddess was worshipped through prostitution. And she eventually morphed into a male demon, Astaroth, a great duke of Hell.

Baal.jpg

Baal

Aka: Ba’al, Baal of Peor, Baal-Berith, Baal-Zebub

Meaning of the name: Lord

Domain: Fertility, as well as the sun and storms; supreme god of Canaan and Phoenicia

Biblical reference: The Old Testament is lousy with references to Baal. He gave the Golden Calf a run for its money. Some choice selections: 

2 Kings 10:18-28: The Israelite King Jehu tricked all the servants and priests of Baal to come to the temple for a great sacrifice, where he had his soldiers massacre every last one of them. To add insult to injury, Jehu then made the house of Baal a public latrine. 

Jeremiah 19:5: Baal’s worshippers are said to burn their sons alive as a sacrifice to appease the deity. 

1 Kings 18:28: The priests of Baal worked themselves into a frenzy and cut themselves with swords and lances.

You can see how depictions of Baal might have helped influence Christians’ concept of the Devil (aka Beelzebub).

You can see how depictions of Baal might have helped influence Christians’ concept of the Devil (aka Beelzebub).

Description: Baal is basically a minotaur — a powerfully built man with the fearsome head of a bull. He’s sometimes shown as a man wearing a toilet-plunger-looking hat  over his luxurious curls and holding a lightning bolt in his upraised hand.

Strange story: Baal’s worship included public ritual prostitution between one of his priests and a local woman.

The demon Beelzebub, whom Jesus links to Satan in the Book of Matthew, is a modification of one of Baal’s names.

chemosh2.png

Chemosh

Aka: Asthor-Chemosh

Meaning of the name: Uncertain; perhaps Destroyer or Fish God

Domain: War, mountains; primary god of the Moabites

Biblical reference: 1 Kings 11:7: Despite being held up as a paragon of virtue, King Solomon actually built a sanctuary to Chemosh — thought of as a move to please his Moabite wife.

2 Kings 3:27: The king of Moab sacrificed his firstborn son and heir to Chemosh on the city wall — and the strategy worked. The Israelites scurried away in defeat.

Description: An old man with a full beard, wearing a bulbous cap and sometimes brandishing a sword

Strange story: There’s rare archeological evidence that calls out Chemosh by name: the Moabite Stone, or Mesha Stele, discovered in 1868 at Dibon. It bears an inscription commemorating the circa 860 BCE endeavors of King Mesha to overthrow the Israelite dominion of Moab. 

dagon2.png

Dagon

Meaning of the name: Grain

Domain: Fertility, agriculture, war, death and the afterlife; chief god of the Philistines

Biblical reference: 1 Samuel 5: The Philistines captured the Ark of the Covenant and put it in the temple of Dagon. In the morning, the statue had fallen over, face-down, in front of the ark. The next morning, the same thing had happened, and the statue’s head and hands had broken off. The worshippers of Dagon were justifiably freaked out, so they moved the ark from town to town — but everywhere it resided, the people developed tumors. Eventually, the Philistines returned the cursed ark to Israel.

The statue of Dagon kept falling down in front of the stolen Ark of the Covenant.

The statue of Dagon kept falling down in front of the stolen Ark of the Covenant.

Description: A merman — half man, half fish, or a bearded man wearing a sort of giant fish cloak, with the open mouth pointing skyward

Strange story: The concept of Dagan’s appearance is fishy, though — some sources think it’s a misrepresentation of the deity.

El.jpg

El

Meaning of the name: God

Domain: Father of the gods

Biblical reference: Genesis 14:18–20: Abraham accepts the blessing of El.

Description: An old man, often with wings; sometimes depicted as a bull

Strange story: In the Bible, El is the supreme god of the Canaanites, yet is identified with Yahweh. In fact, he could very well have been the original conception of the Hebrew God. It’s right there in the “el” in the name Israel, which is usually translated as “He Who Struggles With God.”

If El was the prototype of Yahweh, it explains the connection between his wife, Asherah, and the Hebrew God.

haddad.png

Hadad 

Aka: Ramman; often conflated with Baal

Meaning of the name: Thunder

Domain: Storms, fertility

Biblical reference: It’s believed that some of the mentions of lower-case baals (gods) in the Old Testament refer to Hadad — though he also gets jumbled up with numerous other deities of the region. 

One theory, which I imagine to be controversial, states that Psalm 29 was actually about Hadad and not Yahweh, waxing poetic about the voice of God striking with flashes of lightning, shaking the desert, twisting oaks and the like.

Description: Another bearded man wielding a lightning bolt

Strange story: Like the Egyptian deity Osiris, Hadad is murdered by a fellow god, and the world goes barren before he is resurrected.

Marduk.jpg

Marduk

Aka: Bel (which means Lord)

Meaning of the name: Bull Calf

Domain: Justice, compassion, healing, magic; sometimes also a storm and agriculture deity; patron god of Babylon

Biblical reference: Jeremiah 50:2: A rallying cry about the fall of Babylon, where Bel is put to shame, and Marduk is dismayed

Description: A man with a curly beard wearing a robe covered with circular devices. He’s got a pet/servant dragon.

Marduk, god of justice, defeats Tiamat, the goddess of chaos.

Marduk, god of justice, defeats Tiamat, the goddess of chaos.

Strange story: Marduk killed the goddess of chaos, Tiamat (often shown as a griffin-like creature), with an arrow that split her in two. From her eyes, the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers began to flow, and from her corpse, Marduk formed the heavens and earth. 

moloch2.jpeg

Moloch 

Aka: Molech, Molekh, Mo’lech, Moloc

Meaning of the name: King

Domain: Not sure — maybe the underworld; does sacrificing babies count?

Biblical reference: Leviticus 20:2-5: Yahweh demands that the Israelites stone to death any man who “gives his seed” to Moloch, who loved a good child sacrifice.

Description: A calf or an ox; a man with the head of a bull with arms outstretched, its body a furnace to roast infants

Strange story: There’s no real archaeological evidence of a god named Moloch. This most likely wasn’t the name he was known by among his worshipers but rather a Hebrew transliteration. Some scholars think Moloch was actually the same god as Baal.

nisrochtree.png

Nisroch

Aka: Nisrok

Meaning of the name: Possibly relating to a plank of wood, specifically from Noah’s Ark, which Sennacherib, the king of Assyria, worshipped as an idol

Domain: Agriculture

Biblical reference: 2 Kings 19:36-37: Sennacherib was worshipping in the temple to Nisroch, when two of his sons came in and smote the heck outta him with their swords.

King Sennacherib’s sons flee the temple of Nisroch after killing their father.

King Sennacherib’s sons flee the temple of Nisroch after killing their father.

Description: A muscular man with the head and wings of an eagle (though this is thought by some scholars to originally have been a depiction of a jinni), sometimes shown watering a sacred tree

Strange story: There’s some debate as to whether Nisroch is actually a deity or if it’s a scribal error for the god Nimrod. In later folklore, Nisroch became a demon who’s the chief cook in Hell.

tammuz.jpeg

Tammuz

Aka: Dumuzi

Meaning of the name: The Flawless Youth, the Good Young One

Domain: Fertility, shepherds (helping keep newborn animals from being defective)

Biblical reference: Ezekiel 8.14-15: A being of fire (even its loins were aflame) shows the prophet Ezekiel pagan atrocities. At the entrance to the Temple in Jerusalem, Ezekiel sees women weeping for the death of Tammuz, much to his horror. The fire being, though, assures him he’ll see much worse abominations, which is hardly surprising.

Description: A total hottie

Strange story: Tammuz was killed by his lover, Inanna, the goddess of sexuality, because she felt he didn’t mourn her enough when she was lost in the Underworld. Don’t worry: In a foreshadowing of Christ (and in the tradition of Adonis and Osiris), Tammuz was resurrected. –Wally

Notre-Dame Before the Fire

We passed by Notre-Dame de Paris every morning during our week-long visit. Now you can admire some photos of the famous cathedral before the damage from the 2019 fire.

Wally jumps for joy in the beautiful garden behind Notre-Dame Cathedral, which glows a warm pale yellow.

Wally jumps for joy in the beautiful garden behind Notre-Dame Cathedral, which glows a warm pale yellow.

It was the perfect morning tradition. In 2013 we visited Paris and stayed at our friends Michael and Kent’s apartment in Montparnasse. A few days into our trip my parents arrived and Duke and I would ride the Métro to meet my parents, who were staying at a cute little hotel on Île Saint-Louis. We got off on Île de la Cité and walked past Notre-Dame, before crossing the bridge to meet my mom and dad at the oh-so-Parisian Saint-Régis café at the foot of the street. 

Wally’s parents stayed on the neighboring isle, so Notre-Dame was a short walk away en route to the Métro.

Wally’s parents stayed on the neighboring isle, so Notre-Dame was a short walk away en route to the Métro.

We felt so lucky to have this morning ritual: a stroll past what is arguably the world’s most famous cathedral, with its beautiful gardens and statues of saints and gargoyles peering out from its façade. 

Saints alive! (Actually, the fact that they’re saints means they’re long dead.)

Saints alive! (Actually, the fact that they’re saints means they’re long dead.)

Gargoyles (chimères en français) do double duty: They scare away evil spirits and act as rainspouts.

Gargoyles (chimères en français) do double duty: They scare away evil spirits and act as rainspouts.

While impressive, the interior has always struck me as a bit too claustrophobic, gloomy and choked with incense — more suited to a mystery religion to honor a pagan deity than to inspire awe in the Catholic God. I’m much more of a Sacré-Cœur type of guy.

The sides of the cathedral are dark, lit only by candlelight.

The sides of the cathedral are dark, lit only by candlelight.

Sometimes we’d drop my parents off at their hotel in the evening. We saw the cathedral in all kinds of light. It was the backdrop to our vacation. 

An electrical short most likely caused the fire that damaged Notre-Dame in 2019.

An electrical short most likely caused the fire that damaged Notre-Dame in 2019.

Notre-Dame and the Fire of 2019

Because Notre-Dame was such an integral part of our trip and an iconic symbol of Paris, it was with great shock and sadness that I watched news footage of the fire that consumed the cathedral on April 15, 2019. It was horrifying and heartbreaking. 

The blaze started in the attic (who knew Notre-Dame even had an attic?!), causing the spire to plummet like a spear, piercing the stone vault of the 850-year-old cathedral. The most likely cause? An electrical short.

The spire, designed by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, melted from the heat of the blaze, plunging down into the heart of the church. It once pointed heavenward 295 feet high.

The spire, designed by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, melted from the heat of the blaze, plunging down into the heart of the church. It once pointed heavenward 295 feet high.

Two of the biggest issues from the fire are toxic lead from the melted spire and damage to the flying buttresses, which support the vaulted ceiling.

Two of the biggest issues from the fire are toxic lead from the melted spire and damage to the flying buttresses, which support the vaulted ceiling.

Les pompiers, the French firefighters, had been trained how to handle such an emergency. They used low-pressure hoses and focused on saving priceless artworks and the bell towers. 

While the damage wasn’t as devastating as it could have been, one of the major issues now is that the roof and spire were made of lead, which melted and poured the toxic liquid into the damaged building. Some of it formed stalactites of sorts that remain to this day. 

And the very structure of Notre-Dame is at risk: The architectural innovation that supports its vaulted ceiling, the flying buttresses, tottered dangerously, threatening to collapse the structure before being shored up by temporary wood bracing.

Here’s hoping that this magnificent cathedral is someday soon renovated to its former glory. In the meantime, here are some of the photos we took on our visit before the fire. –Wally

Notre-Dame served as the backdrop of Wally and Duke’s trip to Paris.

Notre-Dame served as the backdrop of Wally and Duke’s trip to Paris.

I never promised you a rose garden — but there’s one behind Notre-Dame.

I never promised you a rose garden — but there’s one behind Notre-Dame.

Duke in front of the bell towers, which were a priority for firefighters to save.

Duke in front of the bell towers, which were a priority for firefighters to save.

Duke puts Wally on a pedestal.

Duke puts Wally on a pedestal.

The carvings on the façade of Notre-Dame are quite ornate.

The carvings on the façade of Notre-Dame are quite ornate.

Notre-Dame is one of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture.

Notre-Dame is one of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture.

This guy has lost his head. Saint Denis of Paris was a 3rd century bishop who was decapitated for his religious beliefs.

This guy has lost his head. Saint Denis of Paris was a 3rd century bishop who was decapitated for his religious beliefs.

Adam and Eve — and the serpent, depicted as a temptress

Adam and Eve — and the serpent, depicted as a temptress

A tarnished bas-relief

A tarnished bas-relief

Sharp angles and monsters on Notre-Dame’s exterior

Sharp angles and monsters on Notre-Dame’s exterior

Creepy (but cool) gargoyles, their screams set in stone

Creepy (but cool) gargoyles, their screams set in stone

Medieval griffons form this geometric pattern.

Medieval griffons form this geometric pattern.

Sculptures of the kings of Judah line the façade of Notre-Dame, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Sculptures of the kings of Judah line the façade of Notre-Dame, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

One of the more hideous gargoyles seen at Notre-Dame

One of the more hideous gargoyles seen at Notre-Dame

The main aisle of the cathedral is narrow — though surely groundbreaking at the time of its construction.

The main aisle of the cathedral is narrow — though surely groundbreaking at the time of its construction.

Pray for us sinners, now and at the hour of our death. Amen.

Pray for us sinners, now and at the hour of our death. Amen.

A statue of Joan of Arc (known as Jeanne d’Arc in her native France)

A statue of Joan of Arc (known as Jeanne d’Arc in her native France)

H is for…?

H is for…?

The stained glass windows add vibrant splashes of color to the otherwise gloomy interior.

The stained glass windows add vibrant splashes of color to the otherwise gloomy interior.

Light a votive candle and admire one the famous Rose Windows.

Light a votive candle and admire one the famous Rose Windows.

Doubting Thomas pokes one of Jesus’ wounds after the resurrection.

Doubting Thomas pokes one of Jesus’ wounds after the resurrection.

A container in the cathedral is filled with letters people have written, one supposes, to God.

A container in the cathedral is filled with letters people have written, one supposes, to God.

A model of the cathedral

A model of the cathedral

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
6 Parvis Notre-Dame
Place Jean-Paul II
75004 Paris
France