An Insider’s Guide to Nantucket

Are you looking for things to do in Nantucket, Massachusetts? We cover the popular tourist attractions like the Whaling Museum and Brant Point Lighthouse as well as some of this charming island’s best-kept secrets — an icon of Mister Rogers, anyone? Also: the best Nantucket restaurants. 

For some strange reason, the Wampanoag Native Americans who lived on Nantucket gave it a name that alludes to it being a distant, desolate place. According to Britannica, it could even mean “sandy, sterile soil tempting no one”!

From stunning natural landscapes and beaches to must-see historical landmarks and quirky interior spaces, Nantucket, Massachusetts has it all. 

Here are my insider tips on the gems of Nantucket, an island in the Atlantic about 30 miles south of Cape Cod.

The island of Nantucket is 30 miles off the south coast of Cape Cod. It’s 14 miles long and three and a half miles wide.

Quick Tips for a Hassle-Free Nantucket Vacation

Keep in mind that this could be an expensive getaway: Things can be a bit pricey on the island.

One of the best ways to experience the Nantucket lifestyle is to rent a home during your stay.

Be sure to book your accommodation in advance, especially during the peak summer season. Vacation rental homes are a great option to get a feel for how locals live.

Why bring your car over when you can reach everything on a bike?

Choose your mode of transport. You can get to the island either by plane or ferry. Once there, I’ve found that the most satisfactory way to tour this exquisite island is by bike. Of course, you can bring your car, but it’ll cost you about $400-$450 to do so. I suggest renting a bike at Nantucket Bike Shop. Cycling is a great way to see the sights and exercise at the same time. Besides, there are numerous bike trails on the island.

8 Top Attractions on Nantucket

Nantucket is home to many gems, including secluded beaches, secret gardens and hidden coves. Here are my favorite spots:

Greater Light, a historic home in Nantucket, has become a cultural center and wedding venue.

1. Greater Light

Gertrude and Hanna Monaghan, two artistic sisters, had come to Nantucket because of its growing creative community. In the summer of 1929, the Monaghan sisters were taking in the city's vibrant art scene when they stumbled upon a herd of cattle. They followed the herd until it took a U-turn at Howard Street and entered a 140-year-old barn. The siblings were fascinated with the dilapidated structure. They discovered it was owned by the town grocer, William Holland, and they convinced him to sell it to them. 

The siblings named the barn Greater Light after the Bible verse Genesis 1:16: “God made two great lights — the greater light to govern the day and the lesser light to govern the night.” They began turning the barn into a light-filled summer home and filled it with architectural artifacts and an eclectic mix of furnishings. If you want to experience the emotional vibe of the town, this is the place to be.

Insider’s Tip: Greater Light is accessible to the general public from May to October. It’s a 10-minute walk from the town center. In addition to being a popular wedding venue, numerous events, including book signings, concerts and lectures, are held on the renovated property. For the most current schedule, visit the Nantucket Historical Association website.

Greater Light
8 Howard Street

Could someone just make this man a saint already? The icon of Mister Rogers at St. Paul’s.

2. Mister Rogers Portrait at St. Paul’s Church

Some people would indeed consider Mister Rogers a saint; they’d find it fitting that he’s an idol at St. Paul’s Church. Before he became a beloved children’s television icon, Rogers studied to be a Presbyterian preacher. 

He spent the summers on Nantucket with his family, residing in the Madaket neighborhood on the island's west side. He and his family attended St. Paul’s Episcopal Church on Fair Street. 

A local artist, Julie Dunbar, painted a tribute to Mister Rogers’ legacy as an honored parishioner and a well-known friend to many. Pop into the church, identifiable by its beautiful Tiffany stained glass windows, to see this quirky icon bearing the words “Gentle, Kind + True.”

Insider’s Tip: While the church is open to visitors, check to see if it happens to be closed for exclusive services and activities.

St. Paul’s Epsicopal Church
20 Fair Street

The 46-foot-long skeleton of a sperm whale that died in 1998 hangs from the ceiling. Check out those chompers — a testament to the dangers of the whaling profession.

3. The Whaling Museum

Once known as the whaling capital of the world, Nantucket has a historic whaling district, and the museum is housed in a former whaling captain’s house. The Whaling Museum was established in 1929 and is among the oldest naval museums in the United States. 

The Whaling Museum in Nantucket

Its gallery has a collection of over 1,000 artifacts, including a sperm whale skeleton and a whaleboat. The museum also has a library and archives with over 500 books, maps and manuscripts. 

Insider’s Tip: The museum is open year-round and offers various educational schedules for adults and children. Hopefully you’ll get a guide as colorful as Emily Gilmore on The Gilmore Girls. And be sure to climb the spiral staircase (or take the elevator) up to Tucker’s Roofwalk for a panoramic view of the harbor — where the captain’s wife might once have kept an anxious lookout for the return of her husband’s ship.

The Whaling Museum
13 Broad Street

Brant Point Lighthouse is one of three to see in Nantucket. Look for the American flag on its side.

4. The Lighthouses 

Nantucket has three lovely lighthouses, all of which are well worth a visit:

Brant Point Lighthouse is near the city at the end of Easton Street and is the ideal location to view the sunset or sunrise. Its white stairway and American flag painted on its side make it easy to spot.

Great Point Lighthouse is in a wildlife reserve at the northern tip of the island.

Arriving at Great Point Lighthouse is slightly more complicated since the light is on sandy land. Hire a four-wheel drive if you don’t have one. The trip can be backbreaking, so bring a picnic lunch to eat and get reenergized. 

Sankaty Head Lighthouse stands 70 feet tall at the easternmost point on Nantucket, flashing its light every 7.5 seconds

With its distinctive white and sandy red stripe design, Sankaty Head Lighthouse could be the most outstanding lighthouse on Nantucket. The light is on Baxter Road, but on a clear day, you will see it miles away in every direction. 

Insider’s Tip: The lighthouses are open from  9 a.m. to 6 p.m. all year round. For Great Point, you’ll need an oversand vehicle permit. 

Pay homage to Maria Mitchell by stargazing at the Loines Observatory.

5. Maria Mitchell Association

Maria Mitchell was raised on the island and was a Quaker with a passion for astronomy. She channeled her passions into a spectacular career as America’s first female astronomer. She established the Maria Mitchell Association, Nantucket’s only scientific organization.

The association has plenty to see: an aquarium, the historic 1800s Quaker house Mitchell lived in and a natural science museum, in addition to a series of scientific speakers.

The Historic Mitchell House, where the first female U.S. astronomer lived.

Insider’s Tip: Nantucket has long been famous for its meticulous craft of scrimshaw and historic whaler voyages. But in the 19th century, Mitchell added a curious new chapter to the history of this small island. Honor her legacy by stargazing at the Loines Observatory. The Vestal Street Observatory is currently closed for conservation.

Maria Mitchell Association
33 Washington Street

The Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum

6. Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum

The charitable Egan Maritime Institute runs this museum, which shares the stories of local shipwrecks and the brave rescuers who put their lives in danger to save drowning seamen. 

The building, constructed in 1968, features the design of the traditional stations run by the U.S. Life-Saving Service. It’s the earliest museum devoted to maritime lifesaving and safety history. Its hours of operation are Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. The entrance fee includes a tour guide.

Insider’s Tip: Keep in mind that Nantucket is a seasonal destination, and many places, like this museum, are only open part of the year, closing in the fall and winter. A 15-minute journey down Polpis Road will take you to the museum, which is three miles east of town. But you can also catch the Shipwreck Shuttle from the visitors bureau at 25 Federal Street every half hour starting at 9:30 a.m., returning from the museum on the hour, with the last ride at 5 p.m.), Monday through Saturday from May 30 through October 10.

Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum
158 Polpis Road

You have to get on the water during every stay in Nantucket.

7. The Harbor

When in Nantucket…

Sailing around the harbor is the perfect afternoon pastime and can take you into the evening to enjoy the most splendid sunset in Nantucket. You’ve got plenty of choices: tugboats, larger whale-viewing cruises and swanky schooners. Many offer two-hour rides that head around Brant Point Lighthouse. 

Insider’s Tip: Shearwater Excursions offers the Ice Cream Cruise, where you can enjoy not only a scenic tour but also its namesake treat. But my favorite thing to do is rent a tugboat for the late afternoon, where you can bring cocktails to sip and have some snacks (perhaps a charcuterie board). 

Catch your dinner on a fishing charter into the Atlantic Ocean.

8. Fishing Zones

Nantucket has a large population of game fish, and the best time to go fishing is from May to November. A suitable spot is the south bay between Nantucket Harbor and Great Point. But you can also try your luck near the Sankaty Head Lighthouse. Additionally, the harbor offers dedicated charters for catching large game fish like mahi mahi, marlin and tuna.  

Insider’s Tip: Waves can be intense — even deadly — so make sure you find a pro and ask for the safest times to get on the water. 

Straight Wharf Restaurant

Where to Eat in Nantucket

From fresh seafood to classic New England fare, there’s something for everyone to enjoy on this beautiful island.

For seafood lovers, the Straight Wharf Restaurant is a must-visit. The spot is well known for its fresh, local seafood and harbor views.

Head to the Wauwinet hotel to dine at Topper’s.

Head to Topper’s at the Wauwinet hotel to taste classic New England cuisine. This elegant restaurant is known for its delicious lobster dishes, as well as its stunning views of the ocean. 

Get your New England staples and some good beer at the Nantucket Tap Room at the historic Jared Coffin House.

The Nantucket Tap Room at the Jared Coffin House is an excellent alternative for a more casual dining experience. This historic inn’s tavern offers a cozy atmosphere and classic dishes like clam chowder and fish and chips.

Other good restaurants to try include:

• Millie’s: Seafood

• Cisco Brewers: Great outdoor area for local beers and food trucks

• Cru: Rosé and oysters 

• Provisions: Sandwiches (try the Turkey Terrific or BLT)

• The Downyflake: Doughnuts

• The Juice Bar: Ice cream

Heads up: The popular spot Black-Eyed Susan’s seems to be closed for good. But no matter your mood, you’ll uncover plenty of places to feast in Nantucket.

Smaller than Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket offers a quaint New England getaway.

The Ideal New England Getaway

Nantucket is a small island with a big reputation. It’s a popular summer tourist destination, thanks to its picturesque hangout spots and plenty of outdoor activities. Moreover, the locals are warm and welcoming, guaranteeing you have a great time. As far as I’m concerned, the island is the perfect New England getaway. –Christine Cooper

48 Hours in Cairns, Australia’s Gateway to the Great Barrier Reef

In addition to the marine wonderland of the Great Barrier Reef, there’s so much to do in the Cairns area — including the Kuranda Scenic Railway, Trinity Inlet and the Cairns Museum — that you’ll have to plan your visit, especially if you’ve only got a couple of days.

The Great Barrier Reef stretches over an area of 134,634 square miles (344,400 square kilometers) — not surprisingly, it’s the largest coral reef in the world.

Considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, is home to an incredible diversity of marine life, and a visit to the reef is an unforgettable experience. 

The best jumping-off point to see the largest coral reef on the planet is the city of Cairns, on Australia’s northeast coast. 

“With its clear waters and abundance of marine life, the Great Barrier Reef is a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. ”

But as impressive as the Great Barrier Reef is, it’s not the only thing to see in the area. Here’s a guide to making the most of a couple of days in Cairns. 

Snorkeling or diving the reef is an experience you’ll never forget.

Start with a snorkeling or diving tour of the Great Barrier Reef. 

If you only have 48 hours in Cairns, be sure to book a snorkeling or diving tour of the reef. The Great Barrier Reef is home to an astonishing variety of marine life, and there’s no better way to see it than up close.

A snorkeling or diving tour will give you the chance to explore the reef at your own pace, but a qualified guide can point out the best bits. With its clear waters and abundance of marine life, the Great Barrier Reef is a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. 

If you want to be close to the water but not in it, take a glass-bottom boat tour of the reef instead.

See the reef on a glass-bottom boat tour — or a helicopter ride. 

If snorkeling or diving isn’t your thing, a glass-bottom boat tour is a must if you’re looking for an unforgettable way to experience the Great Barrier Reef. You’ll have the chance to see the reef up close — while staying dry — as you glide over the colorful coral and fish. Be sure to keep an eye out for turtles, manta rays and sharks. If you’re short on time, plenty of tour operators offer half-day or even three-hour tours.

And there’s nothing quite like a helicopter ride for a bird’s-eye view of the reef. You’ll marvel at the size and scale of the reef as you soar over its vast expanse. Helicopter rides typically last around 30 minutes, so they’re perfect if you’re pressed for time. Just be sure to book in advance, as spaces fill up fast.

The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway takes you through lush greenery, where you can see rainbow lorikeets, koalas and cassowaries.

Admire the flora and fauna along the Kuranda Scenic Railway and Rainforest Cableway. 

There’s no time to waste when you only have 48 hours in Cairns. Make the most of your limited time by taking a walk through the rainforest via the Kuranda Scenic Railway. This popular tourist operation offers breathtaking views of the lush rainforest canopy, as well as opportunities to spot some of the area’s wildlife, including koalas, rainbow lorikeets (parrots as colorful as their name suggests) and even a large flightless bird called the cassowary (if you stop off at Birdworld).

The railway is also a great way to learn about the local Aboriginal culture, with guided tours available in several languages. 

And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can even take a dip in one of the many natural swimming holes along the way.

Go for a swim in the Esplanade Lagoon, then explore the CBD, the central business district.

Spend the day exploring Cairns CBD. 

To explore the city, start with a visit to the Esplanade Lagoon, where you can take a dip or simply relax on the beach. Then, head to the Cairns Museum to learn about the city’s history and culture.

Visit a local history museum, the botanic gardens or zipline over a crocodile at Cairns Zoom and Wildlife Dome.

Finish up your day with a walk through the botanic gardens, where you can admire the diverse plant life of Tropical North Queensland. With so much to see and do, you’re sure to have an unforgettable experience when you spend a day exploring Cairns CBD.

The patio at the hip Chambers café, known for its brunch and cocktail bar.

Enjoy a meal at one of the city’s many restaurants or food trucks. 

There’s no denying that food is an important part of the travel experience. Trying new dishes and sampling local specialties is a great way to get a taste for the culture of a place. If you’re short on time but big on appetite, make sure to check out some of Cairns’ best restaurants. 

From casual cafés like Caffiend and the Chambers to fine dining establishments like the French restaurant C’est Bon and Tamarind at the Reef Hotel Casino, there’s something to suit every taste and budget.

For a quick bite, head to one of the city’s many food trucks or grab a slice of pizza from a pizzeria. 

Whether you’re looking for a quick snack or a gourmet meal, Cairns’ restaurants won’t disappoint.

A gorgeous sunrise over Trinity Inlet

Head to the lookout for views of Cairns and Trinity Inlet. 

If you find yourself in Port Douglas (about an hour up the coast), make sure you stop at the Trinity Bay Lookout. It’s just a short walk from Four Mile Beach, and from here you'll be able to see the city skyline, including the iconic palm trees that line the waterfront.

Climb to the top of the Trinity Bay Lookout for views of Four Mile Beach.

On a clear day, you may even be able to see as far as Double Island off the coast. The lookout also offers stunning views of Mount Whitfield, which is worth hiking to the top of for another vantage point.

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You might not find Nemo (or any other clownfish) with only two days in Cairns. But plan your itinerary — and make sure you include the Great Barrier Reef.

So there you have it: 48 hours in Cairns doesn’t have to be rushed. By following these tips, you can make sure you have a truly memorable experience, even when time is limited. –Charlie Btallent

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A Tour of the Quinta Real Oaxaca Hotel and Its Gorgeous Gardens

Learn this UNESCO site’s colorful past, from convent to cinema, from prison to palace — and even a Masonic lodge still in use — and explore its beautiful grounds. 

A tour of the grounds of the Quinta Real Oaxaca hotel yields unexpected delights, like this glimpse of a lush interior courtyard.

It’s undeniably one of the most popular hotels in Oaxaca, and even though we weren’t staying there, we read that we simply had to have a drink there and admire the gardens, which rivaled those at the Alhambra in Spain. (They’re perfectly delightful, but that’s a bit of a stretch.)

Duke and I popped into the Quinta Real on our last day in Oaxaca. We wanted to get a drink and enjoy it in one of their courtyards — but we couldn’t find an actual bar at the hotel; you have to sit at a table to get served. Not sure if we’d be able to get a drink and wander around, we opted to forgo the booze and just wander the grounds on our own. 

“In the late 1800s, a buyer purchased the northeast section of the property to use as a Masonic lodge — which still operates to this day!”

One of the highlights of an exploration of the grounds is the stone gazebo and fountain in the Los Lavaderos Courtyard, so named because it was once used for laundry by the nuns.

Repurposed a Seemingly Endless Number of Times

The hotel began as property of the Roman Catholic Church, much like the Ex Convento de San Pablo, about another historic building in town, now home to the Casa Antonieta boutique hotel, the Textile Museum of Oaxaca and the Centro Cultural de San Pablo. 

The Quinta Real is housed in the former Convent of Santa Catalina de Siena, which was built in 1577. The nuns lived a life of seclusion and quiet meditation there for centuries — until 1859, when they were booted out by Benito Juárez’s Reform laws, which nationalized the church and seized its property. 

“The monument would then begin a long history of deterioration, monstrous construction work and atrocious transformations,” reads a sign out front. 

You can see part of the original convent exterior in the gorgeous pool area.

Not a bad spot to catch some rays

The ex-convent was put to a crazy amount of uses by the state government. In addition to a stint as a prison from 1862 to 1958, the structure also housed, at varying times, the civil registry office, the weights and measures office, the state printing press, a police precinct, the craftsman’s society, criminal courts, a night school and the Abraham Castellano Primary School from 1956 to 1962. 

What was the convent’s atrium even became the municipal palace for almost a century, from 1873 to 1970. 

Cantera stone, used in the façade of the convent, which is now a hotel, has a distinctive greenish color.

The Quinta Real is succulent — in more ways than one.

The sprawling grounds have undergone numerous and varied uses over the years, including a police precinct, printing press, school — even a municipal palace!

The Quinta Real is housed in the former Convent of Santa Catalina de Siena, which was built in 1577.

The Quinta Real property takes up an entire city block and has lots of nooks to discover. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In the late 1800s, a private buyer purchased the northeast section of the property to use it as a Masonic lodge — which still operates there to this day!

The onsite chapel has its own storied past: It was first converted to a municipal warehouse, but in the 1930s it became an art school, and then a movie theater from 1950 to 1960. Then, in 1972 the chapel was finally restored, along with the rest of the estate, when it was reconceptualized as a hotel. 

Paintings and statues can be found throughout the hotel.

Be sure to check out the faded fresco on the wall of the gift shop.

The old chapel was empty when we explored the hotel but would make a good event space. It was once used as a cinema.

The Quinta Real has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s worth a visit, even if you’re not staying there, to wander and admire the grounds. Try to figure out a way to have a drink in the gardens — and don’t set your bag down (thankfully empty of everything but the chocolate bars we bought at Mamá Pacha) to take pictures and leave it like I did. –Wally

Orange trees give the restaurant, Los Naranjos, its name.

This dining area, Los Cántaros, has an interesting art installation. Those ceramic containers, cántaros, were unearthed during the renovation and were once used to as pitchers or to hold oil.

Quinta Real Oaxaca

5 de Mayo 300
Ruta Independencia
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico

Sampling the 7 Moles of Oaxaca

Holy mole! The restaurant Hierba Dulce focuses on plant-based fare and takes traditional Oaxacan cuisine to the next level. 

Most Americans are only familiar with mole negro and don’t even realize there are many varieties of the Mexican sauce.

Mole (pronounced moh-lay) is one of Mexico’s most complex and versatile sauces. And nowhere is that more in evidence than in the southcentral state of Oaxaca, famous for seven distinct types of moles. 

If you’ve ever tried mole in the U.S., chances are it’s mole negro (black mole). This velvety, umber-colored sauce is a savory-sweet combination of dark chocolate, spicy chiles, nuts and spices usually served over enchiladas. Don’t get me wrong — I love me some chocolate, but mole can be so much more than that. There are numerous variations containing dozens of different ingredients, including chiles, garlic, spices, nuts and pepitas (pumpkin seeds), pulverized to a paste in a molcajete (a volcanic stone mortar and pestle). Tomatoes, tomatillos and water or broth are sometimes added, and many are slow-cooked to allow flavors to meld.

“ Don’t get me wrong — I love me some chocolate, but mole can be so much more than that. ”

The lightwood tables and modern chairs (not to mention that wall of cacti) take the Oaxacan restaurant Hierba Dulce up a notch.

Hierba Dulce’s Local, Organic Ingredients 

On our trip to Oaxaca, we knew we wanted to try the seven different types of mole, and we had heard that there was no better place to do so than at Hierba Dulce. The women-run establishment opened in 2017 and was the first in Oaxaca de Juárez to feature an entirely plant-based menu. Using traditional cooking and fermentation methods as a foundation, the restaurant began as a conversation among the founders of its sister project, Pochote Press. Their goal was to create a welcoming, inclusive culinary concept where they could offer accessible, nutritious, unprocessed fare to the local community. 

As Hierba Dulce began to flourish, Pochote Press moved out of the space. The restaurant uses organic ingredients, working strictly with small local farmers, and its dishes are made without processed oils, refined sugars or animal byproducts like asiento (lard). This setup helps provide a lifeline for these producers, who value genetic diversity over mass production. 

The restaurant is run by chef Mayora Georgina Cruz, and is tucked away in the open-air walled courtyard of a colonial-era house not far from the city center of Oaxaca de Juárez. Its name is the Spanish version of tzopelic xihuitl in Náhuatl, an indigenous language of the region, translating to  “sweet herb.”

This was the first place we dined at during our stay in Oaxaca. We arrived around 6 and were seated shortly after. The centerpiece of the courtyard was a tiled fountain with an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe. This was adorned with strands of brightly colored woven palm leaf garland anchored by a straw flower arrangement that put me in a festive mood. 

The gorgeous fountain at Hierba Dulce, with the Virgin of Guadalupe, colorful garlands and bright straw flowers

Hierba Dulce is women-run and focuses on unprocessed, local ingredients. The dinnerware, with its distinctive blackened spots, are from the nearby village of Santa María Atzompa and were handmade by Maestra Josefina Zárate.

To start, we each ordered Oaxaqueños, a cocktail made with the restaurant’s tepache and cachaça, a distilled spirit made from fermented sugarcane juice. At first, neither one of us thought it was that strong — until we finished it. They packed a surprisingly strong punch, and neither of us needed to order a second. 

The Oaxaqueño, a cocktail made with tepache and cachaça, packed a surprising punch.

Wally and I opted for the mole tasting for two, which featured the seven most famous types of Oaxacan moles. 

Dinner kicked off with a salsa verde and a roja.

As an appetizer, we were served a complimentary pair of salsas: a green one made with miltomate (tomatillo), serranos, avocado and cilantro, and a red one with smoked pasilla, morita and chile de árbol with miltomate. These were accompanied by housemade tostadas, crisp corn tortillas made with heirloom maíz, on a comal (a round, flat griddle). 

Try a sampler of the seven moles of Oaxaca and rate them as you go. Our fave was rojo, while verde came in last.

The 7 Moles of Oaxaca

Mole comes from the Nahuatl word molli, or “sauce.” This traditional, multilayered sauce typically begins with a base of dried or fresh chiles, seasoned with wild endemic herbs, vegetables and other ingredients. Cooking times vary by type; some come together quickly and can take as little as a few hours, while others take days to prepare. 

No two moles are alike. Recipes vary from region to region, from village to village, from family to family. All are slightly different, depending on who’s making it. The ones served at Hierba Dulce are Cruz’s recipes, adapted and tweaked into versions made without oil or refined sugar. 

We found that tortillas weren’t the best vehicle to serve with these moles — the sauce oozed out and made for a messy meal.

1. Amarillo / Yellow

Yellow chilhuacle, costeño and smoky-sweet guajillo chiles, spices, hoja santa (literally “sacred leaf” — a heart-shaped leaf with a slight peppery taste) combine with white beans to make an ochre-colored, mildly spicy mole. 

2. Verde / Green

This was the only mole of the seven that didn’t contain dried chilis (perhaps that’s why it was our least favorite). Its bright green color comes from miltomates, serranos, cilantro and epazote (a pungent herb with a flavor between tarragon and anise). 

3. Almendrado / Almond

This mole is made with guajillo and ancho chiles, heirloom tomatoes, almonds, oregano and cinnamon. 

4. Chichilo 

Intense and smoky, with pasila, mulato, guajillo and black chilhuacle chiles, garlic and onion, the addition of dry-roasted avocado leaves lend a subtle licorice flavor. 

5. Estufado

Olives, almonds, miltomates, tomatoes, onion, capers, perejil (parsley) and cinnamon combine in this version.  

6. Rojo / Red

This thick, brick-red sauce was the spiciest of the seven moles and used ancho chiles, pasilla chiles, garlic, onion, tomatoes, peanuts and dark chocolate. It was our fave. 

7. Negro / Black

The most labor-intensive of the moles, this one contains chilhuacle negro, mulato, pasilla, ancho, guajillo and chipotle chiles, plantains, and dark, bitter chocolate. The charred seeds of the chilhuacle negro give this mole its signature depth of color and flavor. Wally thought it was so sweet compared to the others, it practically worked as a dessert course. 

Most moles are made with chiles, herbs, tomatoes — and some even have chocolate.

Getting Sauced 

Moles are often served over rice, chicken or pork. Ours came with corn tortillas that were made moments before on a nearby comal in the corner of the courtyard. Most of the sauces were soupy, resulting in a messy dining experience. Perhaps we should have tried the mole sampling that comes with mushrooms. And after trying a few different varieties, it was difficult to really appreciate the subtle differences between the seven — though maybe that was because of the buzz we felt from the Oaxaqueños. 

Either way, we admired how Cruz has reinterpreted traditional ingredients in a sophisticated way. –Duke

Wally and Duke pose by the back wall of the Hierbe Dulce courtyard, which is lined with cacti known as Mexican fence posts.

Hierba Dulce

Calle Porfirio Díaz 311
Ruta Independencia
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oxaca
Mexico

Continue Your Culinary Tour of Mexico

An Enchanted Evening at Alfonsina Restaurant in Oaxaca

World-class dishes meet home cooking at chef Jorge León’s destination restaurant in San Juan Bautista la Raya, one of the best dining experiences in Mexico.

The tranquil setting in a pueblo half an hour outside of Oaxaca Centro puts the spotlight on the meal. You can see Elvia, the chef’s mother, in the background, making tortillas.

The taxi had been driving for about half an hour. As we rumbled along a dirt road in a small village outside of Oaxaca de Juárez, Wally and I wondered where the heck we were going.

Located in San Juan Bautista la Raya, Alfonsina is the culinary masterpiece of chef Jorge León. A coworker who had visited Oaxaca last year tipped me off to the restaurant and insisted we go. For those of you reading this who like to skip to the end, Wally and I were not disappointed. To me, the prospect of having a meal in the backyard of a local chef sounded magical — and, indeed, it was. 

“Like a beautifully choreographed dance, guests were served simultaneously.”

There was time before dinner for Wally and Duke to wander the grounds, chat with other guests and have their picture taken.

Our experience began the minute we were dropped off outside, passed through a doorway and entered the yard. We were ushered in and seated at a rustic two-top wooden table. Surrounded by foliage and cool brick walls, it felt more like a secret garden than a restaurant. It’s an inviting outdoor space that encourages you to stay a while, to hang out in the courtyard and take pictures. 

An incense burner in the yard

Nopale cactus, a popular ingredient

León grew up in San Juan Bautista la Raya. He began his career at Casa Oaxaca and honed his skills under chef Enrique Olivera in Mexico City, who hired him to work at the legendary Pujol. Returning home with a clear vision and the money he had saved over the last decade, León created Alfonsina. He purchased a plot of land next to his mother Elvia’s house and built the space from scratch with help from his relatives. 

It’s a family affair in the truest sense. Elvia runs breakfast and lunch, and León’s brothers and cousins assist with service and food preparation. We noticed a couple bussers wearing black T-shirts that had “Familia” printed on them.

A traditional outdoor brick oven used at Alfonsina

The evening we dined at the restaurant, it was filled with a mix of locals and travelers, who made the pilgrimage like us. There were four tables total when we were there, and the prix-fixe service starts at the same time, 7 p.m., with every course coming out simultaneously for the entire restaurant.

While taking photos before our meal, we struck up a conversation with a couple who were also visiting from Chicago and a gay couple from San Francisco. They were all dining with their family at a nearby table. 

A small patio by the men’s room. The location is part of the home where chef Jorge León grew up.

A Meal Worth Traveling For

Alfonsina is León’s tribute to traditional Oaxacan cuisine. Our inventive meal consisted of five courses and featured seasonal local produce. Although the menu is predominantly plant-based, ours included seafood. 

Our server asked what we would like to drink other than water and suggested an artisanal IPA made in Oaxaca by a women’s collective. I never thought I’d find myself saying yes to — and actually enjoying — an IPA, as the ones I’ve tried in the U.S. are aggressively hops-forward and bitter. However, the ones I’ve had in Mexico City and Oaxaca taste more like a lager. 

The prix-fixe meal started off with a delicious salad and shrimp dish.

First Course

To start, we were served camarones al chepil, a salad of quintonil (leaves of the amaranth plant) and cuatomate (small tomatoes), with a dressing made with capulin (a seasonal fruit about the size of a cherry with a mellow sweetness). Chepil, also known as chipilín, is an edible leaf with a subtle flavor somewhere between spinach and watercress. The smooth texture of the dressing alongside the gently poached shrimp melded beautifully with the acidity of the tiny tomatoes. 

In between courses, we were served small clay cups of pulque. The pre-Hispanic fermented beverage is made from aguamiel, the sap of the agave, the same plant that’s used to make tequila and mezcal. It has a tang not unlike kombucha. We also were offered shots of mezcal espadín, which was earthy, vegetal and not overly smoky. 

Second Course

Next up: tacos de pulpo, or octopus tacos, in a sweet and sour chipotle marinade with avocado criollo (a variety whose skin you can eat) and purslane (an herbaceous edible succulent). The Creole corn used for their tortillas is sourced from the village, milled onsite and cooked on a comal, a large flat circular griddle made from clay. I found myself savoring the surprise of how its flavor evolved atop slightly smoky seared octopus. 

Below the squash blossoms and crispy tortilla was chileate, a parsley soup.

Third Course 

Chileate, a thickened parsley soup, came next. It was a simple but hearty soup made of parsley, roasted tamala squash and mahi-mahi, topped with squash blossoms. It came served with a crisp tortilla that was fun to break and dip into the velvety broth. 

Fourth Course

The main course was perfectly prepared mahi-mahi served atop an ochre-colored mole made with hoja santa (leaves that are popular in the region), estrella de nopal (an edible cactus) and green beans. I was sold from the first bite, which yielded moist, lightly flaky mahi-mahi. 

A bright, palette-cleansing dessert: nieve de garrafa de coco

Dessert

The meal ended with nieve de garrafa de coco, accompanied by a steaming mug of café de olla (a traditional cinnamon-flavored coffee). Nieve, a water-based frozen dessert, is a kind of sorbet native to Mexico. Its texture is lighter than traditional ice cream and has a creamy consistency, even though there’s no dairy in it. This nieve was studded with shaved coconut and sections of charred sweet pineapple, topped with walnut pieces. 

The idyllic setting at Alfonsina in the quiet pueblo of San Juan Bautista la Raya made Wally smile.

The setting sun lights up Duke’s face (or was it the experience of dining at Alfonsina?).

A Special Evening

One of the best parts of our experience was the staff. Like a beautifully choreographed dance, guests were served simultaneously. No one was left waiting to eat. The servers were eager to explain each dish in detail, and at the end of the meal, one of them came around with a plate loaded with the ingredients used in the meal, pointing out each and informing us what course it was included in. It was a charming tradition, and one we wish more restaurants would take up.

After dinner, our server brought out a plate of the local, seasonal ingredients used in the evening’s meal, explaining what each was.

Alfonsina reveals the magic that prevails when tradition is honored amidst experimentation; León has created a culinary environment that reflects both his skill and experience in leading global restaurants as well as his mother’s home cooking that has served the local community for many years before the restaurant was formally established.

Cacti, flowers and other plants in the yard at the restaurant

It was an unforgettable evening that felt like an intimate gathering of friends coming together to enjoy a world-class meal. Each dish brought a wonderful surprise and we were happy to have dined here. This hidden gem is not about one individual thing — it’s the entire experience, centered on the food that reflects the ever-changing nature of the best seasonal ingredients and the chef who cooks from his heart. –Duke

To book a reservation at Alfonsina, click here. 

The space is simple, relaxing — like eating in a friend’s yard.

Alfonsina

Calle García Vigil 183
San Juan Bautista la Raya
Oaxaca
México

Casa Antonieta: A Tranquil Oasis in Oaxaca Centro

This boutique hotel in Oaxaca has all the comforts of home — plus a spectacular rooftop terrace.

The open-air lobby of the hotel. The second floor is currently being built out.

Over time, as I do research on upcoming trips, I’ve come to learn what Wally and I appreciate the most when staying abroad. Or should I say what I like — and Wally ends up being pleasantly surprised by? In the end, a lot depends on location, budget, how you travel, what kind of comfort you’re looking for and, of course, style. I’ve got one main rule: Find a place within walking distance of sites and shops that delivers a well-rounded travel experience versus a mere hotel stay. In Oaxaca, that was Casa Antonieta. 

Duke on the terrazo — our favorite spot at Casa Antonieta

Wally enjoying a glass of wine at the end of another fun day

Casa Antonieta: To Grandmother’s House We Go

When Wally and I arrived at check-in, we were warmly greeted by concierge Ana Jiménez. Our luggage was whisked away and taken to our room, and we were served refreshing glasses of rosemary- and lemon-infused water and freshly baked cookies.

As I took in the tranquil interior courtyard with its gracefully arched and symmetrical arcades, it reminded me of the ones we had seen in traditional Moroccan riads. Clearly the Spanish conquistadors brought this design to Mexico, influenced by the Moors, as the design is well-suited to hot weather, promoting natural ventilation and shade from harsh sunlight.

“ A large part of Casa Antonieta’s appeal is that it’s close to the action but far enough away from the bars to get a good night’s sleep.”

Casa Antonieta is located on a quiet stretch of Calle de Miguel Hidalgo, a short distance from the Zócalo, the historic center and public square of Oaxaca city. Tucked between the Fundación Alfredo Harp Helú and the Oaxaca Textile Museum, Casa Antonieta started life as a convent but became a mansion in the 1890s. Its name comes from Edificio María Antonieta, after the hotel’s founder Helwig George’s grandmother. A large part of its appeal to me was that it’s close enough to the action but far enough away from the bars and club scene to get a good night’s sleep.

The hotel is built around a central courtyard, much like a Moroccan riad.

In fact, Casa Antonieta is the perfect accommodation for exploring Oaxaca city’s historic quarter, restaurants, bars and shops. As you wander the cobblestone streets of Oaxaca Centro, you will undoubtedly find a variety of brightly colored Mexican Baroque, Neoclassical, Art Nouveau and more than a few neglected French and Spanish Colonial relics — one of which had a prominent banner announcing, “No Se Vende,” meaning the building is not for sale, in case you were wondering.

Our bedroom at Casa Antonieta — the woven rattan headboard evoked shelter and seclusion.

A Solid Foundation as a Convent

The boutique hotel was conceived by George, who worked with Mexico City architect Mariana Ruiz of At-te to refurbish and reimagine the property. Embracing its historic roots, the hotel has stayed true to the character of the original building, with the added bonus of modern amenities. George came up with the idea for Casa Antonieta in 2017, and the hotel opened its doors to welcome guests in April 2018. It stands on the site of the former 17th century Franciscan Convent of San Pablo. In 1911 it became a private single-story residence, and a short time after, a second floor was added.

George’s grandfather purchased the building in the ’70s, adding two additional floors and giving the building its name. 

“When he passed away, my mother, aunt and uncle each inherited a floor,” George told us. 

The hotel currently offers nine rooms, with plans to add seven more on the second floor. Ruiz collaborated with Mexican artisans, using local and natural materials where possible, such as the light-colored macuil wood and rattan. Walls are covered in an earthy hand-applied ecru-colored clay plaster, exuding a warm, rustic feel. 

Room 15 was our home away from home.

The quaint kitchenette with its macuil wood

We stayed in room 15, which was located on the third floor. Our elegant room featured terrazzo floors, custom-built furniture and doors made with tropical hardwood indigenous to Southern Mexico. Lighting was designed by Taller Lu’um, a studio that collaborates with Mexican artisans. I also admired a wool rug made by Zapotec weavers in the nearby village of Teotitlán del Valle and conceived by Oaxaca-based studio Rrres.

The galley-style kitchen had open shelving with a potted succulent in a green glazed pot from Santa María Atzompa, and a few utilitarian barro rojo (red clay pottery) vessels from San Marcos Tlapazola. Both villages are close by and would make a good day trip. 

The spa-like bathroom featured a floating countertop and shelf of macuil wood and a rain shower edged by river rock drainage. 

Start your day on the terrace and end it there, as well, when the space becomes the bar Amá.

Golden hour on the rooftop is a good spot to take a new Tinder profile pic.

In the lobby, you can get lost in your thoughts, peruse the hotel’s collection of art and photography books, or simply enjoy sipping a latte from Muss.

Elsewhere, greenery further enhances the property’s tranquil atmosphere and creates a visually striking space. 

Order breakfast at Muss…

…and enjoy it on the terrace.

Before heading out for the day, we enjoyed breakfast on the sunny rooftop terrace with views of the city and surrounding mountains. At night the rooftop transforms into Amá, which serves up expertly crafted cocktails and light bites. Wally and I recommend the roasted cauliflower steak with smoked pasilla chile rub. Plus, there’s a shop within the bar where you can purchase a selection of artisanal objects from the surrounding villages without having to leave the city.

Get a cold brew to go.

The popular coffeeshop that’s part of the hotel

the Buzz-worthy Muss Café

The hotel also contains a cool little café named Muss, which can be accessed from the lobby. The name of this “younger sibling” of Casa Antonieta comes from an adjective that means something like “tousled” or “organized mess” — which is exactly how we feel until we have our morning caffeine fix. Popular with locals and guests of the hotel alike, Muss offers great coffee and food. Their cold brew was one of the best that I had in the city. When I mentioned this to the charming concierge Javier Guzmán, he smiled and conspiratorially told me that they grind the beans with cacao nibs.  

Casa Antonieta was a welcome refuge for us to return to after a full day of adventures within and outside of the city. The concierge team was always happy to share recommendations and arrange transportation for us when needed. If you’re searching for a great home base and unforgettable stay in Oaxaca Centro, look no further. –Duke

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The unassuming façade of Casa Antonieta belies the lush interior.

Casa Antonieta

Miguel Hidalgo 911
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico

Where’s the Best Breakfast in Puerto Vallarta?

Three of our favorite brunch restaurants — plus the best coffee in PV.

The offerings at our fave coffeeshop in PV, Puerto Café

Part of the fun of a trip for me is the research before. This includes looking for potential places to eat, especially breakfast. You know what they say: Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. 

Read on to find out our top recommendations for Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. 

“We jokingly lamented that we missed the Naked Pool Party, which had taken place a couple of days before. ”

Relax and enjoy a delicious and healthy(ish) breakfast at Cálmate Café. Wally got the chilaquiles.

1. Cálmate Café 

We ate here twice twice during our short stay in Puerto Vallarta, once for breakfast and once for lunch. Both times the food was delicious. Their menu offers a variety of healthy meal options as well as coffee, freshly squeezed juices and smoothies. 

We liked that it was outside of the main tourist tract and had a relaxed neighborhood vibe. The first time we had breakfast here, we arrived shortly after the streets had been washed. The cobblestones were still glistening in the sunlight, and we watched the morning unfold as we ate. The café lives up to its name, which can be translated as “take it easy.”

I ordered the eye- and mouth-pleasing yogurt and granola with fresh fruit and Wally ordered one of his go-tos: chilaquiles.

The outdoor seating area is small but cozy, and the servers were friendly. Plus, we got to pet a seemingly endless parade of dogs. 

Why sit in the crowded restaurant when you can dine on the sidewalk patio?

Cálmete Café
Calle Honduras 218
5 de Diciembre 
48350 Puerto Vallarta 

Fredy’s Tucán, a breakfast staple in the Zona Romántica

2. Fredy’s Tucán

Located on Basilio Badillo in the heart of the Zona Romántica, aka Old Town Puerto Vallarta (aka one of the most gay-friendly areas on the planet), this popular breakfast spot is a well-oiled machine. Fredy’s originally opened in 1983 as an open-air bar and evolved into the restaurant it is today. 

There’s a reason tourists flock here. The servers are attentive, the food is well-priced — and did I mention it’s also delicious? On offer for breakfast are waffles, omelets, pancakes and Mexican dishes like chilaquiles and huevos rancheros. Plus, how can you say no to the charming older man offering you a selection of freshly baked pastries to start your day?

When we left, satisfied and ready to explore, there was a queue outside to get in. Trust us, you won’t leave hungry. 

Fredy’s Tucán
Basilio Badillo 245
Emiliano Zapata
8380 Puerto Vallarta

When in doubt, order the breakfast sandwich.

3. Bistro at Casa Cupula

Nestled in the hills among the tropical greenery of the Amapas neighborhood of PV is the gay-owned, LGBTQ- friendly boutique hotel, Casa Cupola and its onsite restaurant, Bistro at Casa Cupola. The lush setting reminded me of our visit to the spectacular Botanical Gardens earlier in the trip. 

It’s a steep climb up Callejón de la Igualdad but certainly worth it. (You could also bypass the hike and catch an Uber or cab there.)

You enter through a separate entrance for the bistro, which is located farther up the road. We arrived shortly after the restaurant opened and were seated on the sun-dappled patio as ceiling fans spun lazily overhead. Our server was attentive and the food delicious. We felt like we were in our very own private hacienda. 

We jokingly lamented that we missed the hotel’s Naked Pool Party, which had taken place a couple of days before. 

A peaceful breakfast on the deck in the hills just outside of PV at Casa Cupola.

Bistro at Casa Cupola
Callejón de la Igualdad 129
Amapas
48398 Puerto Vallarta 

We liked the small medicinal-looking bottles the Puerto Café cold brew comes in so much we took one home.

4. Puerto Café 

Hands down, this was our favorite spot to get our caffeine fix. This hip, cozy coffeeshop serves the best coffee in town. It’s located on Calle Morelos, not far from the seaside Malecón promenade — kitty-corner from the black and white lighthouse they use in their logo. When we were there, someone had scrawled, “Fuck Digital Nomads” on the wall at the front of the space and good music spun on the turntable.

I loved their delicious (and potent) housemade cold brew coffee. Each serving comes in its very own small brown bottle like something a snake oil salesman would peddle. They also make a solid iced latte, which Wally enjoyed.

Part of what makes Puerto Café so special is the coffee they serve. All varieties are by Guadalajara-based Café Estelar, a specialty roaster that proudly works directly with regional producers to offer single-origin Mexican coffee beans. 

Just make sure to get there earlier in the day if you appreciate cold brew, as they produce it in limited batches daily and had run out on one of our visits. –Duke

With great local coffee and a cool vibe, Puerto Café is a fun spot to escape the heat and get your caffeine fix.

Puerto Café
Morelos 540
Proyecto Escola
Centro
48300 Puerto Vallarta

A Perfect Morning in La Condesa, Mexico City

One of CDMX’s hippest hoods has its own distinct vibe with the racetrack-turned-oval-park Avenida Amsterdam and an array of eye-catching Art Deco architecture, green spaces and cafés. 

If you’re in Mexico City, you’ve got to take a walk around the colorful colonia of La Condesa — especially the pedestrian-friendly, lush Avenida Amsterdam.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Mexico City began to experience the influence of a new international artistic movement, which had great importance in graphic and industrial design, the decorative arts and architecture. What was this revolutionary style? Art Deco, of course. 

Art and design are still a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa. Here’s how to spend a pleasant morning in the colonia (neighborhood).

“Art and design are a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa.”

This periwinkle house and sign became a familiar guidepost for us.

1. Go round Avenida Amsterdam and the surrounding streets.

Start your day by heading to Avenida Amsterdam in Hipódromo, the heart of La Condesa. The avenue gets its shape from a former horse racing track. 

Following the old horse racing track, Avenida Amsterdam is now a median green space in the heart of La Condesa.

Stroll along the central pedestrian median of Avenida Amsterdam and stop to gaze at La Fuente de la Glorieta Popocatépetl. The 1927 Art Deco fountain by José Gómez Echeverría is popularly known as the Bomba. The fountain consists of a dome supported by four white columns decorated with tiles. An aperture at the top allows sunlight to illuminate it, if only for a fleeting moment. 

There are lots of Art Deco delights to discover while wandering around La Condesa, including Edificio San Martín.

As you wander this neighborhood, admire the Art Deco and Streamline Moderne doorways and façades of mansions and apartments that line the streets. The San Martin building, designed by Ernesto Ignacio Buenrosto, with its symmetrical entrance and canopy on Avenida México, perfectly characterizes the Art Deco style.

Wally’s all set for brunch at the cozy back patio at Frëims in La Condesa. He and Duke of course loved the mural.

2. Grab breakfast on Frëims’ charming back patio.

Fuel up for the day at one of our favorite spots in La Condesa, Frëims (Avenida Amsterdam 62B). The space occupies the renovated first floor of a former 1920s home reimagined as a bookstore, record shop and restaurant serving food and a variety of coffee drinks. 

We were seated at a table on the sun-dappled patio. While we were there, the gallery and garden wall mural featured a collaborative installation by Colombian artist Sofía Echeverri and Oaxacan illustrator Vero Anaya called The Origins of Knowledge. The artists describe their imaginative pieces as embodying the concept of “soróbora”: the juxtaposition of sorority, a society of women, and ouroboros, the snake that nurtures itself and symbolizes infinity by eating its own tail. 

Lemon ricotta pancakes

Eggs Benedict

I tried the lemon ricotta pancakes and Wally got his usual huevos benedictinos, paired with a coffee for me and a latte for Wally. We also ordered two Vecinos, a fresh-squeezed juice blend of pear, lime, cucumber and cardamom. 

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ANOTHER BREAKFAST OPTION: Ojo de Agua in La Condesa

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A large section of Parque México is devoted to a dog park.

3. Take a walk in the park…Parque México, that is. 

Officially Parque San Martín, La Condesa’s large urban park was built on the former site of the elite Jockey Club de México — and everyone refers to it as Parque México now.  Built in 1927 the park is a favorite among families, dog walkers and skateboarders. 

This plaza, named for Charles Lindbergh, offers a space for dog walkers, children and rollerbladers to congregate.

Bougainvillea covers the pergola that surrounds the open-air theater.

At the front of the park, there’s a communal space consisting of five pillars topped with a canopy and bordered by a pergola. The exterior walls are covered with graffiti and when we walked by, we watched a group of kids learning to rollerblade.

Nice jugs! El Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers) was modeled after Luz Jiménez, once the go-to model for indigenous Mexicans.

Standing serenely in front of the open-air Teatro al Aire Libre Coronel Lindbergh, named in honor of the American aviator, is a concrete figure of a nude woman holding a pair of jugs (literally). Known as Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers), it depicts Luz Jiménez, who modeled for its creator, José María Fernández Urbina, as well as Diego Rivera and Tina Modotti. She was considered the it girl archetype of the Mexican indigenous woman.

This clock tower with Art Deco ironwork, designed by Leonardo Noriega, has bells that chime to mark the hour.

Every visitor to Mexico City should spend some time in this colonia — if not use it as a base, as we did, staying in the delightful and chic Octavia Casa. –Duke

Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden: Mexico’s Eden

Our budding romance with this lush nature preserve, which gets our vote for the best thing to do in PV. 

The orange-hued Hacienda de Oro houses a restaurant and gift shop, with the Cactus House to the right.

At first, we didn’t embrace the laidback, beach-oriented vibe of Puerto Vallarta. Duke and I are used to filling our itineraries with things to do — and the most culture PV has to offer are drag shows like Mama Tits’ Confessions of a Ho! (you couldn’t make this shit up).

Needless to say, we were excited to learn about the Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden. And, not surprisingly, our trip there was our favorite part of our vacation.

“ The most culture PV has to offer are drag shows like Mama Tits’ Confessions of a Ho!

So we were excited to learn about the Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden. And, not surprisingly, our trip there was our favorite part of our vacation.”

We didn’t come fully prepared — no bug spray, Duke wearing sandals and me in suede Vans — but kudos to you for reading this to prepare for your visit. 

Look how happy exploring the botanic garden made Wally.

Take a Hike

If you’re into hiking, there are numerous trails through the surrounding jungle. We started along one behind the Cactus House and found ourselves down by the river. I squatted down to wet my hair and neck. I’m not sure if we would have gone swimming in the brown water even if we had swimsuits, but it might be a good idea to wear yours just in case you really need to cool off. 

The Cactus House is filled with succulents and, yes, cacti.

The fountain in front of the Hacienda de Oro features an eagle, a symbol of Mexico.

Wally cools off in the river.

A group of teens go swimming.

We continued over some slippery rocks and passed a group of local teens wading in the river before continuing along the Jaguar Trial. A sign informed us that its rating level was “difficult.”

“Would’ve been nice to have that marked on the map,” I muttered. 

But Jaguar turned out not to be too difficult; it’s just uphill for much of the time. I was kind of hoping we’d run across the eponymous feline, but no such luck. 

The adorable pink chapel on the grounds, Our Lady of the Gardens

Goin’ to the Chapel

After the hike, we wandered a few of the areas near the restaurant and gift shop, including the octagonal conservatory of native plants, before crossing the Bridge of Dreams and stumbling upon the adorable pink church, Our Lady of the Gardens.

You can’t tell from this angle, but this conservatory is octagonal-shaped.

A priest in a jaguar pelt

Masks cover the back wall.

A statue of a man holding maize, one of the most important crops to the Mesoamericans who lived here

This pyramid is a replica of the one at La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s home museum in Mexico City.

“If they had planters like this at the gift shop, I would have bought some,” Duke says.

Duke on the Bridge of Dreams

El Puente de los Sueños leads to the chapel.

We couldn’t go inside the small chapel because they were putting up new wallpaper — a  bright yellow background filled with plants, birds and butterflies. It’s going to give the space a modern feel and make it oh-so-Instagrammable. 

Wally on the pink stairs in front of the chapel

The man in charge of the project came over to chat with us, giving us advice (buy some insect repellent and carry it everywhere in defense of the no-see-ums; take a day trip to San Sebastián). 

The Infant of Prague in the graveyard

The Virgin Mary watches over some tombs.

Graves, some with elaborate statuary like this small church with the Virgin Mary within, line the hills on either side of the chapel.

There are graves scattered on either side of the hill leading up to the church — with those of pets to one side. If I happen to die while I’m in the area, I couldn’t hope for a better eternal resting place. 

When the staff put out this tray of fruit, one colorful species of bird after another stopped by to dine.

Birdwatching at the Hacienda

By this time, we were hungry and in need of refreshment, so we went back to the Hacienda de Oro and had a great lunch — guacamole, grilled fish tacos, chicken quesadillas Xochimilco and two Cadillac margaritas, por su puesto. (Incidentally, the margs were quite strong and left us un poco barrato). 

You can’t take a break on the Hacienda de Oro balcony without getting a margarita. Just be careful: They’re strong!

The food was tasty — whipped up in this open-air kitchen.

A violist stood by the tables playing songs, including “Dust in the Wind.” At first I was a bit annoyed we’d be pressured into tipping him, but it ended up being nice having the strains of music waft around us, and when I looked up at him, his eyes crinkled with a grin — and I didn’t mind slipping him some pesos in appreciation.

He was a nice guy and during one of his breaks, he told us to look over the balcony, pointing down to a spot where the staff had left out tropical fruits to attract a variety of birds in a rainbow array of bright colors. 

A hummingbird at the feeder on the balcony

Next to stop by was a woodpecker.

He saw how excited we were — I could take up birdwatching if they were all this colorful and amazing — and kept pointing out new birds to us. 

After lunch we did some shopping. I can tell you that the handicrafts here are among the best you’ll find in the PV area. (The ubiquitous markets along the waterfront, which peddle tourist-oriented fare, get dismissively dubbed “mercados de basura,” or “trash markets,” by Duke.)

And the prices aren’t bad. I bought a blue wool dinosaur stuffed animal, a cloth Frida ornament and a ceramic skull rattle. 

Plants and pots for sale

A skeleton and marigold for Día de los Muertos

St. Francis holding a skull to contemplate death

We found the items on sale at the gift shop to be of high quality at a fair price.

To wrap up our visit, we went back to the main road and found the offshoot that leads to the Gazebo Bridge and then crossed the Swinging Bridge to the Vanilla Plantation. 

Duke wasn’t afraid to cross the Swinging Bridge.

Wally in the ironwork gazebo

A plant-filled fountain we passed en route to the Vanilla Plantation

Ready to call it a day, we headed back up the road to the entrance, where there’s an open-air hut. The staff there can call you a taxi with a fixed price. The Zona Románitca is just under 40 minutes north.

Lily pads and lotuses in one of the ponds in the gardens

All in all, we spent the better part of the day at the botanic garden, getting in a hike, eating a great meal, seeing exotic birds, doing some shopping and exploring the lush grounds. Tickets are well worth the 200 peso (about $9.50 when we visited) admission charge. By the way, kids under 4 get in free.

The beach has its perks. And drag shows are fun once in a while. But we wouldn’t visit PV without a trip here. It’s anything but your garden variety attraction. –Wally

Jardín Botánico Vallarta (Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens)

Carretera Puerto Vallarta
Carretera Costera a Barra de Navidad Kilómetro 24
48425 Jalisco
México

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Secret Gardens: Read More

Ojo de Agua: A Delightful Breakfast in La Condesa

Using fresh, locally sourced ingredients, this CDMX fast casual restaurant offers delicious egg, coffee and smoothie options. 

A fantastic breakfast (or coffee or smoothie) option in the La Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City

Some cities really do have it all: food, culture, adventure and more. On our fourth morning in CDMX, we ventured out for breakfast and decided to try Ojo de Agua. Situated off the picturesque Plaza Citaltépetl roundabout near the tree-lined Avenida Amsterdam, Ojo de Agua is a fast casual restaurant that wants you to eat on the healthier side — without being bland or boring. With its own bountiful fresh fruit and vegetable stand on display inside, a literal feast for the eyes, the concept reinforces the proverbial saying “you are what you eat.”

The fruit stand in Ojo de Aqua

The founder named the café after Ojo de Agua, the small town built around a freshwater spring pool located in the state of Michoacán, where the family is from. Their ethos “living a healthy life, in the company of people we love, in harmony with nature and strengthening habits which provide the body with tools to be fulfilled” rings true. The first location opened in the upscale Polanco neighborhood 14 years ago and the brand has since expanded to 23 locations in CDMX. 

The clean and simple logo (a white background with turquoise type and Fanta-blue droplets of water) offer a nod to the town’s namesake spring and can be seen under the awning.

A tasty breakfast at Ojo de Agua’s sidewalk café in La Condesa

A Healthy Way to Start the Day

The interior is casual and chic with big windows, concrete floors, patterned Mudéjar-style tile and white-painted brick walls, which makes it bright and welcoming. Plus, if you arrive early like we did, there’s outdoor seating where you can soak up the morning sun and people-watch while enjoying some of the tastiest food in La Condesa. 

You’ll find plenty of breakfast options to choose from on the menu, including açaí bowls, chilaquiles and cinnamon roll French toast. I ordered the santos ahogados, two poached eggs served in a cast-iron skillet over hoja santa, a large aromatic heart-shaped leaf plucked from the plant of the same name, complete with a generous helping of grilled panela cheese, in a broth of refried beans, salsa roja, salsa verde and sliced avocado. Wally ordered the huevos Polanco, made with two Parmesan cheese-crusted baked eggs served over an avocado purée and dressed with a za’atar-dusted cilantro jocoque, a fermented dairy product somewhere between yogurt and sour cream. My breakfast was savory, flavorful and very tasty. The salsa verde was relatively mild, while the salsa roja had a nice fiery heat to it. 

Wally couldn’t help but be jealous of that thick slice of grilled panela cheese on Duke’s santos ahogados.

I appreciated that real silverware was provided, neatly presented in kraft paper sleeves. The unmistakable and familiar strains of “Bohemian Rhapsody” by the British rock band Queen played over the speakers as we ate up every last bit of our breakfast. 

You’d be hard-pressed to find cuter details than this citrus juicer that acts as a napkin holder.

After breakfast, we made a beeline to the juice bar and ordered the South Face, a combination of fresh mango, passion fruit and pineapple juice. We also purchased a small jar of smoky salsa matcha. I’m considering tossing it with some roasted root vegetables or putting it on some chilaquiles. Needless to say, we left very happy and full. –Duke

Ojo de Aqua

Condesa Hipódromo 23C
06100 Ciudad de México
Mexico