Torre Campanario de Córdoba: Scaling the Heights of the Town’s Tallest Landmark

The 9th century minaret-turned-bell-tower of the Mezquita offers spectacular 360-degree views of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

We chose to visit just before sunset to get some of that golden hour glow.

In the heart of Córdoba’s Historic Quarter stands a towering sentinel: the Torre Campanario de la Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, or the Bell Tower of the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. Rising 54 meters high — equivalent to a 16-story building — this remarkable landmark claims the distinction of being the city’s tallest structure. 

Formerly a mosque minaret, the bell tower stands as a living testament to Córdoba’s fascinating and diverse past. Visitors can climb to new heights and experience breathtaking vistas from the two uppermost levels of the tower. 

The original minaret didn’t stand in the exact location of the bell tower, but it was close by and accessible from within the Patio de los Naranjos

A Brief History of the Minaret of the Great Mosque 

But first, let me take you back to the year 957, during the period of Muslim rule in southern Spain (or al-Andulus). Abd ar-Rahman III (891-961), the first caliph of the Umayyad Dynasty in Spain, had a new alminar — a minaret tower — built along the north wall of the mosque. This tower, where the muezzin calls the faithful to prayer, replaced the original one built by Hisham I (757-796) in the 8th century. Hisham’s tower had stood in the Patio de los Naranjos, the Courtyard of the Orange Trees, and was removed when the courtyard was expanded. 

The architectural marvel likely resembled Sevilla’s La Giralda and had a rectangular shaft with a square base, an open-air platform, and a smaller secondary structure topped by an iridescent chevron-patterned bronze dome. At its summit, a yamur — an iron finial with metal spheres of decreasing size — was placed to protect the mosque from evil. 

The original yamur and cross from the Reconquest are displayed alongside a scale model of the minaret built by Abd ar-Rahman III at the Museo Arqueológico de Córdoba. 

However, a century after Abd ar-Rahman III’s reign, the Umayyad Empire teetered on the verge of collapse amid the chaos of civil war. Ferdinand III of Castile and his armies seized this opportunity, taking Córdoba by force on June 29, 1236. This pivotal moment marked the fall of the Great Mosque, which was converted into the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, dedicated to none other than the Virgin Mary. As a political declaration of victory, a Christian cross was placed atop the minaret’s yamur, a potent gesture marking the reconquest of the Catholic monarchy over its Islamic predecessors, with the alminar serving as the cathedral’s bell tower. 

Vista de Córdoba (View of Córdoba) by François Boussuet, painted in 1863, depicts the Guadalquivir River, the Roman Bridge and a view of the Mezquita-Catedral’s bell tower.

Monumental Changes: The Minaret Becomes The Bell Tower

The Mezquita remained mostly unchanged under the Castilian Christians until 1523, when Bishop Alonso de Manrique petitioned Charles V and obtained his approval to construct the massive Capilla Mayor and Coro Crucero — the main chapel’s cruciform nave and transept — a full-fledged cathedral placed rather unceremoniously at the center of the former mosque. 

An earthquake in 1589 left the bell tower unstable, leading to the decision to encase the structure. It was rebuilt and enlarged in the prevailing Renaissance style, under the direction of Hernán Ruiz III, the grandson of Hernán Ruiz the Elder, who had overseen the construction of the aforementioned Capilla Mayor. The lower half of the tower façade is marked by false windows, an architectural feature with horizontal lintel beams, bottom sills and indentations where a window might have gone. Additionally, it displays the various coats of arms belonging to the Cathedral Chapter, the patrons who financed the refurbishment. 

The fourth tier, or belfry, features a serilana — a window with three openings. This architectural element is distinguished by a central arched window flanked by a pair of rectangular ones and offers a glimpse of the 12 bells within. Above this are two oculi, small ovoid openings echoing the exterior façade of the Capilla Mayor. Construction halted multiple times as funds were redirected to complete the Capilla Mayor. Unfortunately, Ruiz didn’t live to see its completion, but I think he would’ve been pleased with the final outcome. 

Construction resumed in 1616 under the direction of architect Juan Sequero de Matilla. This phase included the addition of the smaller clock tower tier housing a pair of bells used to mark the passage of time. Its exterior is framed by pilaster columns topped by a triangular pediment, shields bearing the coat of arms of Bishop Diego de Mardones and arched windows in the middle of each side. 

Almost five decades later, Gaspar de la Peña was tasked with repairing the south and west façades of the bell tower. He added the circular cupola to the clock tower and a figure representing Córdoba’s patron saint, San Rafael, attributed to sculptors Pedro de Paz and Bernabé Gómez del Río, at the top. 

While the tower has undergone various restorations, the most comprehensive conservation effort to date commenced in 1991, when the building was closed, not reopening until 2014.

Where else would you get the best view of this charming town than from its tallest building?

How to Visit and Climb to the Top 

Following our early morning visit to the Mosque-Cathedral, we made a beeline to the kiosks beside the bell tower to secure tickets to climb it later that day. Wally purchased tickets for the 6 p.m. time slot (each priced at 3€, or about $3 at the time), figuring this would allow us to experience the enchanting “golden hour,” that magical time just before sunset.

This is how you access the staircase of the bell tower. Groups of 20 go every half hour.

Tickets can also be bought online. Tours commence every half-hour, running daily from 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Don’t assume you’ll be able to go right up the tower; tickets tend to sell out well before each time slot. Only 20 people are permitted to enter per group, and you must leave after the allotted 30 minutes. 

Keep in mind that tickets for the bell tower do not include entry to the Mosque-Cathedral, and vice versa.

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RELATED: Learn more about Córdoba’s must-visit La Mezquita with its mesmerizing arches.

How many pictures can elicit gasps of astonishment like this one?

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Before purchasing tickets, be aware of the following restrictions: Entry isn’t permitted for children under 7, those aged 7 to 14 must be accompanied by an adult, and elderly or individuals with health issues are advised against the climb. 

You can gaze upon the Courtyard of the Orange Trees and the Mosque-Cathedral from one side of the bell tower and a view of the narrow streets of the Historic Quarter on the other. 

The View From Above

Upon our return to tour the tower, we accessed it via Calle Cardenal Herrero and passed through the Puerta del Perdón, also known as the Gate of Forgiveness. Allegedly, pilgrims passing through this special passage received forgiveness for all their sins. The opulent Baroque-style vaulted ceiling is adorned with intricate plasterwork that includes cherubs, episcopal heraldry, tondos (circular reliefs with the images of the four Evangelists), and garlands of blue and gold flowers.

Crafted from pine and adorned with gorgeous geometrically patterned bronze plaques, the towering doors of the Gate of Forgiveness bear commemorative inscriptions as well as an elaborate door knocker. 

There’s no elevator, and the ascent is 191 steps. It was manageable, though, for a couple of middle-aged guys in decent shape. Besides, you can pause at various levels on your way up if you’d like. 

At one such place, we stopped to look down at a shimmering metal dome, before realizing it was the top of the old minaret! 

The minaret’s original cupola, adorned by a Christian cross, can be seen as you climb the bell tower.

The magnificent views of town and the Patio de los Naranjos definitely make the tower worth adding to your itinerary. Stop to gaze out on each side, gaining a different but equally impressive vista from every direction.

Who’d have thought that this what the rooftop of the cathedral looks like?!

Wally preferred the fourth tier, where you can marvel at the machinations of the bell chamber. Each bell has a different tone and name — La Esquila, La Asunción and San Zolio, to list a few. Some are marked with their year of manufacture and some bear the insignia of the bishop who commissioned their casting. 

Each of the bells is said to have its own nickname.

Don’t worry. Wally was just pretending the bells were ringing. 

While gazing out at the city, we couldn’t help but notice a sweet aroma of caramelized sugar wafting up from the street below. After we had climbed back down, we walked along the street to investigate — and determined that it had originated from Sabor de España, a confectionery shop. It specializes in treats, prominently featuring glossy cherry-red candied apples in their street-side window, along with caramelized nuts and turrón nougat.

Verdict: Make time to visit the bell tower. The panoramic views of the city are worth experiencing and for us, it was the perfect way to wrap up our day of sightseeing in this wondrous city. –Duke

 

The Mezquita: Córdoba’s Mesmerizing Mosque-Cathedral Hybrid

The Great Mosque of Córdoba, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Andalusia, endures as a monument to Spain’s cross-cultural harmony. 

Ancient Rome, Islamic Spain and Catholicism all come together in the breathtaking Mezquita in Córdoba.

It’s all about those arches. They seem to multiply into infinity, creating a seeming mirror maze of red and white latticework. It’s one of the iconic images that make Córdoba a must-visit stop on any trip to the south of Spain. 

The Mezquita in Córdoba is the perfect symbol of what Duke and I love about Andalusia. You have Roman influences, Islamic stylings and a Roman Catholic overlay. It’s a magical part of the world, where these three cultures blend together into architecture that can’t be found anywhere else but southern Spain. 

Case in point: Córdoba’s Great Mosque, known as the Mezquita, perpetually rising from its ashes like a phoenix over 10 centuries through a fascinating interplay of Roman, Islamic and Christian construction. 

“King Carlos I lamented his decision to allow the construction of the cathedral, saying, “They have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something commonplace.”

That’s a bit harsh.”

Parts of the massive structure’s exterior retain their Islamic architecture.

Abd ar-Rahman and the Start of the Mezquita

To understand Córdoba and the history of this amazing structure, we must travel to the Middle East and meet Abd ar-Rahman I, a member of the Umayyad dynasty in Damascus, Syria. Things aren’t going so well for the prince. His family was massacred by the Abbasids, rivals for Islamic rule, and Abd ar-Rahman fled, hiding out in the farthest corner of the Muslim world. That is, the south of Spain. 

He ended up in Córdoba. After wresting control of the city from the Visigoths, Abd ar-Rahman began eyeing the church of San Vicente, the largest in town. Not surprisingly, it had been been built upon the ruins of a Roman temple (you’ll notice a trend). Abd ar-Rahman purchased half of the church from the Christians to start, before eventually buying the rest. 

Then, in 786 CE, he tore down the church to construct his most important project: a massive cathedral mosque. 

The History of the Mezquita

The designers ran with those mesmerizing horseshoe arches, a style borrowed from the Visigoths, placing them atop recycled columns from the original Roman ruins. The distinctive red and white is a result of alternating brick and stone. The repetition of the arches was an attempt to evoke the infinite nature of Allah. I’d say they succeeded. 

“The aesthetics of the new Cordoban mosque, to which Muslims from far and wide throughout history would forever write odes, was typically Anadusian from the start: part adaptation of local, vernacular forms and part homage to Umayyad Syria, forever the source of hereditary legitimacy,” María Rosa Menocal writes in The Ornament of the World. 

“The Cordoba mosque continued to be built, and added to, for the next 200 years, until nearly the year 1000, but the characteristic look of the place, the horseshoe arches that sit piggybacked on each other, themselves dizzyingly doubled in alternations of red and white, were established from the start,” she continues.

Abd ar-Rahman II, great-grandson of his namesake (792-852), expanded the Great Mosque and added a new mihrab, a niche where Muslims face to pray. 

Then, Abd ar-Rahman III (891-961) enlarged the patio and built a new minaret, which stood 130 feet (40 meters) tall. 

All those red and white arches, designed to mimic infinity, are truly hypnotic.

His son, Al-Hakam (915-976), continued his father’s work — in fact, he’s responsible for the most impressive renovation of the space. He had new columns built, alternating pink and blue marble. Domes were added to let in light, while painted wood beams decorated the ceiling. The 11 naves were extended, and a larger qibla wall built (this is supposed to be the cue to facing Mecca, but more on that later). Oh, and there was a secret passage for the caliph to enter the mosque from his adjoining palace. 

Gorgeously painted wooden ceiling beams

At the end of the 10th century, Córdoba had become a bustling city. To accommodate the growing population, Almanzor (938-1002) made the courtyard bigger and added eight naves. These are the most austere of the bunch. Ultimately, the Mezquita could hold 40,000 worshippers. It was the largest mosque in the world at the time. 

It wasn’t just used for prayer, though; it was the center of Cordoban life. Judges made rulings near the mihrab. Teachers taught children under the arches. And traveling pilgrims were allowed to sleep there. 

Religious Reversal: From Mosque to Cathedral

In 1236, King Ferdinand III conquered Córdoba, returning the city to Christian rule. The mosque transitioned to the cathedral of Santa María, even as many Islamic elements endured. The Main Chapel is located under the skylight. 

King Henry II built the Royal Chapel to provide tombs for Castilian monarchs. This was done in the Mudéjar style, a delightful blend of Gothic and Islamic, using Muslim architects and carpenters. 

An area with pointed arches was built to give light and height for the choir as well as the church bigwigs. 

The structure remained largely the same until 1528, when King Carlos I gave permission to tear out the center of the mosque to build a proper cathedral, much to the dismay of many in Córdoba. Turns out he ended up agreeing with them. When the king visited, he lamented his decision, saying something along the lines of, “They have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something commonplace.” 

That might be a bit too harsh. This is still one impressive place of worship.

The choir stalls were built in the Baroque style of mahogany wood from Cuba. As in many Catholic churches, naves line the walls, containing small chapels. 

(FYI: Much of this history comes from a kid’s book we bought in town: La Mezquita de Córdoba by Manuel González Mestre, with fun illustrations by Jacobo Muñiz López.)

The Mihrab: Where Intricate Beauty Meets Spiritual Significance

While wandering the Mezquita, look for the mihrab. Among the monument’s ornate riches, none capture the cross-cultural transformation quite like the exquisite mihrab, located along the back wall on the right side. It’s considered the most sacred part of a mosque. 

Strangely enough, though, this qibla doesn’t actually indicate Mecca. Instead, it faces south. One theory is that it was a reference to the direction where Mecca would be from Abd ar-Rahman’s hometown of Damascus. Then again, it’s also thought that the streetscape didn’t allow for the qibla to face east as it should have, and instead was chosen to align with the Guadalquivir River.

When Córdoba was conquered by the Christians, they not only repurposed the mosque, they also recognized the mihrab’s beauty and spiritual importance — and actually preserved it! It’s a surprising moment where two faiths coexist within the same sacred space.

Intricate mosaics, geometric patterns and calligraphy intertwine to create a tapestry of colors and shapes that leaves visitors in awe. 

The Patio de los Naranjos: An Oasis of Tranquility

Chances are you’ll begin your exploration of the Mezquita in the Patio de los Naranjos, the Courtyard of the Orange Trees. For one thing, it’s where you line up to buy tickets. 

This tranquil oasis, with its fragrant blossoms and centuries of history, offers a contrast to the architectural wonders inside. And it’s not just orange trees — there are also olive trees, palms and cypresses. 

In its long history, this courtyard been a place for reflection, prayer and community gatherings. And there was a section where Muslims would perform their ablutions, or ritual cleansings, before entering the mosque. 

Visiting the Mezquita

Recognizing the Mezquita’s cultural and historical importance, UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site in 1984. This status is a testament to the ongoing efforts to protect and preserve the architectural marvel, ensuring that future generations can continue to be inspired by its grandeur.

Pro tip: The early bird gets the arch. 

We went early in the morning to see the Mezquita before mass was held. It’s free, so you don’t need to bother with tickets. (If you don’t go at this time, be sure to get your tickets as soon as possible. They cost 13 euros. I think it’s a good idea to book a day in advance if you have the time, but most travel sites say you don’t need to worry about it selling out. Call me paranoid.)

We figured the pre-mass time was a good way to escape the massive tour groups that would invade the space later in the day. To do so, you don’t go through the Patio de los Naranjos as you normally would. You enter through the Puerta de Santa Catalina. The one downside is that you don’t have a lot of time to explore. Get there right at 8:30, cuz security guards will kick you out around 9:20 so mass can begin. 

This trick is considered the worst-kept secret in Córdoba, so keep in mind that word has gotten out. But it’s still supposed to be better than most other times. If you can’t make it early, or want more time, try booking the end of the day.

More Metamorphoses: Temple to Church to Mosque to Cathedral 

Like the ceaselessly repurposed structures within its walls, the Mezquita represents the fluid nature of Spain’s cultural and religious history. As both mosque and church, this house of worship symbolizes Andalusia’s legacy as a place where Ancient Rome, Islam and Catholicism converge. For over 10 centuries, the awe-inspiring Mezquita has shifted shapes and uses but has endured. That’s typical of this wondrous part of Spain. –Wally

Ramadan Revealed: Radical Traditions of the Islamic Holiday

Eye-opening insights into Muslim practices, including fasting, iftar, suhoor, zakat and the Night of Power. 

Ramadan: when Muslims don’t eat, drink water, smoke, have sex or doing anything bad during the day for an entire month?! Learn more about this holiday.

“Ramadan’s been interesting,” my friend living in Qatar once told me. “It’s only been two days and it’s already a country full of cranky, sweaty, dehydrated, hungry people. It’s no way to live.”

The concept of not eating, or even being allowed to drink water, during daylight hours for an entire month seems so foreign to us Westerners — and, yes, downright bonkers. It can’t be healthy, for one thing. 

“Ramadan is like Lent for Catholics.

Only instead of giving up something you love, you’re giving up something you need to survive. ”

You see, Ramadan is a bit like Lent for Catholics. Only instead of giving up something you love, you’re giving up something you need to survive. 

Ramadan is a time of spiritual reflection, self-discipline and community. But let’s be real — it’s also a time of intense hunger, caffeine and nicotine withdrawal, and dramatic mood swings.

But these sweeping generalizations miss the point. I didn’t have the full story of why Muslims celebrate Ramadan. So I decided to do some digging. 

Fascinating Facts About Ramadan

Ramadan is based on the lunar calendar, which means it starts 11 days earlier each year than the previous year. It takes 33 years for Ramadan to cycle back to a particular starting date. And once in a very blue moon, like in 1997, two Ramadans will fall within the same calendar year. The next time that will happen: 2033. 

The holiday began in 624 CE and commemorates the month in which the Prophet Muhammad is said to have received the first revelations of the Quran, the holy book of Islam, from none other than the angel Gabriel. 

The angel Gabriel delivers the Quran to the Prophet Muhammed — the event celebrated during Ramadan.

The word Ramadan comes from ramida, an Arabic root that means scorching heat or dryness. And no, it’s not referring to people’s parched throats on a hot day but the fact that Ramadan originally fell during the summer season.

Fasting during Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam, which are the basic duties that every devout Muslim must follow. The other pillars are prayer, declaration of faith, charity and pilgrimage.

Some years there are more hours of fasting due to longer daylight hours. The hours of fasting also change substantially throughout the world based on the hours of daylight in various locations. 

Not everyone has to fast, though. There are some exceptions, such as children (you’re on the hook only after puberty), and those who are elderly, sick, traveling, pregnant, menstruating, breastfeeding…or all of the above. You can either make up the fasts later or feed a poor person for each day you miss.

Fasting during Ramadan isn’t just about abstaining from food and drink — you have to forgo sex, smoking, and anything else deemed indecent or excessive. Muslims also try to avoid anger, gossip and bad deeds during the month.

You might think that fasting during Ramadan would work as a crash diet. But that’s not always the case. In fact, some people actually gain weight because they overeat after breaking their fast at sunset and shortly thereafter fall into bed. 

Once the sun has gone down, people can break their fast with the meal called iftar.

Iftar and Suhoor: Time to Stuff Yourself Silly

Break their fast you say? Well, it’s not like people could survive not eating or drinking water for an entire month. So, once the sun has set, Muslims have a meal called iftar, which traditionally starts with dates and water, as well as other foods like soup, rice and bread. 

Dates are the traditional food to break your fast once the sun sets during Ramadan.

Iftar is a time for celebration and indulgence. It’s a chance to gather with loved ones, share delicious food and thank Allah for the blessings of the day. 

People prepare plates of food for iftar. It must be hell cooking delicious-smelling dishes when you haven’t eaten all day.

Muslims then catch a few Z’s before getting up before dawn to eat a meal called suhoor. It’s a delicate balance between filling up enough to last until sunset without feeling like you’re going to burst. 

Prayer in Cairo by Jean-Leon Gerome, 1865

Prayer and Charity: The Chance for Forgiveness 

During Ramadan, Muslims attend special night prayers called taraweeh at mosques. They seek to deepen their relationship with Allah and cultivate a sense of spiritual peace and tranquility.

There’s also a strong focus on helping others. Islamic teachings encourage Muslims to set aside a percentage of their accumulated wealth to donate to charity (zakat) and do good works for the neediest in their community. “The best charity is that given in Ramadan,” Muhammed said.

The Night of Power is a mysterious occurrence during Ramadan. Muslims can seek it through intense prayer at a mosque during the last 10 days of the holy month.

The Quest for the Night of Power 

One of the most important moments of Ramadan is the Night of Power, or Laylat al-Qadr. The Quran declares that it’s “better than a thousand months” (Surah Al-Qadr, 97:3). 

I don’t quite understand what the Night of Power entails; it sounds a bit like an epiphany. According to the Prophet Muhammad, it’s an opportunity to ask for forgiveness of your sins.

But the Night of Power is elusive, mysterious, intensely personal. One way to seek the Night of Power is through the practice of i’tikaf, which involves secluding yourself in a mosque for the last 10 days of Ramadan. This intense focus on prayer and contemplation increases your chances of finding the Night of Power.

Many Muslims spend more time praying during Ramadan.

Another way to seek the Night of Power is through increased acts of worship, such as reciting the Quran, performing extra prayers or giving zakat. 

Finally, Muslims can seek the Night of Power through supplication and heartfelt dua, the act of calling upon Allah. Good news: “A fasting person, upon breaking his fast, has a supplication that will not be rejected,” Muhammad said. 

Massive amounts of people come together to celebrate Eid al-Fitr, the end of Ramadan.

Eid Al-Fitr: A Well-Earned Celebration 

After the month of fasting, prayer and spiritual reflection, Muslims around the world come together to celebrate Eid al-Fitr, the Festival of Breaking the Fast. (It’s pronounced like Eed al-Fitter.) It’s a time of joy, feasting and giving thanks.

The day begins with the Eid prayer, followed by a sermon in which the imam reminds the community of the lessons learned during Ramadan and encourages them to continue their spiritual growth throughout the year. 

People go to a mosque on Eid al-Fitr — and after the sermon, the feast begins.

After the prayer and sermon, Muslims exchange greetings of “Eid Mubarak” and engage in acts of charity and kindness. 

Finally, Eid al-Fitr is a time of feasting and indulgence, with traditional sweets and delicacies being shared among family and friends. 

Girl Reciting Quran by Osman Hamdi Bey, 1880

Ramadan and Self-Transformation 

I now have a better understanding of Ramadan. The religious holiday is a spiritual detox, a month-long opportunity for Muslims to purify their hearts, minds and souls. It’s a time to leave behind bad habits and negative behaviors, and focus on strengthening their connection with Allah and becoming better individuals.

It’s also an opportunity to wipe the slate clean. As the Prophet Muhammad said, “Whoever observes fasts during the month of Ramadan out of sincere faith and hoping to attain Allah’s rewards, all his past sins will be forgiven.”

Ramadan is a time of self-reflection, charity and forgiveness.

I’m sure that the intense sacrifice Muslims make during Ramadan leads to some pretty powerful revelations about one’s self and helps people be more empathetic to the less fortunate.  

“Ramadan is a time for us to remember what is essential in life, to let go of our attachments to the trivial and the mundane, and to connect with the divine and the transcendent,” says Omid Safi, a professor of Islamic studies at Duke University. 

Maybe that’s not so unhealthy after all. –Wally