elephants

Off the Beaten Path: Discovering Cambodia’s Lesser-Known Destinations

Escape the crowds at Angkor Wat and Phnom Penh and discover Cambodia’s hidden treasures in Battambang, Mondulkiri, Koh Rong Samloem, Kratie and Kep. Pristine beaches, colonial charms, wildlife, waterfalls, crab dishes — and the bamboo train — await adventurous travelers. 

Angkor Wat is an astounding experience — but if you want to escape the crowds, there are many other amazing adventures to be had in Cambodia.

Cambodia is an enchanting country to visit, where ancient temples, lush landscapes and warm hospitality await. 

While popular destinations like Phnom Penh and Angkor Wat draw crowds of tourists each year, there are various lesser-known areas that offer an authentic Cambodian experience. Discover some of Cambodia’s hidden gems — where you can escape the tourist crowds and immerse yourself in the true essence of this captivating country.

But first things first. Unless you live in one of eight neighboring nations in Southeast Asia, Cambodia requires a visa to enter. Apply for your visa today and start planning your trip.

Street in Battambang, Cambodia, with colonial-influenced hotel and man on motorbike

With its colonial-era charm, Battambang has a wealth of attractions both within the city limits and beyond.

Battambang: A Charming City With a Rich Colonial History

Nestled in the northwest region of Cambodia is the charming city of Battambang. It’s known for its well-preserved colonial architecture, like Sala Khaet, the former governor’s residence, which stands on the west bank of the Sangkae River. It was commissioned by the last Thai governor of Battambang in 1905 and used by the French until 1953, when Cambodia became independent.

Another notable heritage building is the bright yellow National Bank of Cambodia, a fully restored villa that previously housed a pawn shop and radio station.

If you’re a history buff, you’ll definitely want to check out the Battambang Provincial Museum. This well-curated museum contains a collection of artifacts from the surrounding Ankorian-era temples, including lintels and statuary. 

Hire a tuk-tuk, a motorized rickshaw, and head six miles north of the city center to the ruins of Wat Ek Phnom, an 11th century Hindu temple with sandstone carvings built during the reign of King Suryavarman I. The relief on the temple’s central tower depicts the mythic Churning of the Ocean of Milk — an epic tug-of-war between the gods, demons and a serpent in a battle to obtain the elixir of immortality.

Plus, there’s a towering seated Buddha statue and an active Buddhist temple on the grounds. Its interior features serialized paintings that cover the walls and ceiling, telling the Buddha’s life story. 

The amazing stone ruins of an ancient temple, Wat Ek Phnom, in Battambang, Cambodia

The super-cool ruins of Wat Ek Phnom, an ancient Hindu temple

The new temple of Wat Ek, with thin white pillars, green base and pointed roof in the Thai style

A newer temple stands on the grounds of Wat Ek Phnom.

Looking for a thrill? Take a ride on the famous norry, or bamboo train, an unusual mode of transportation. People, rice and livestock are shuttled back and forth on squat wooden platforms placed on top of a wheeled metal carriage and powered by a small engine. The train cruises along an old track at about 35 mph, offering breathtaking views of the countryside. You’ll pay $5 per person to the villagers operating the train once you reach your destination. It’s a small price to pay for a unique and thrilling experience!

Family, with hippie dad, mom and two boys, riding the bamboo train with driver in white hat and young boy, in Battambang, Cambodia

If you’re in Battambang, you’ve gotta take a ride on the bamboo train!

If you’re hungry after a day of exploring the city and its surroundings, try the regional specialty mee kola. It’s a delicious dish of stir-fried rice noodles and soy sauce, served with papaya, cucumber, pickles, bean sprouts, other vegetables, fragrant herbs and crushed peanuts.

The serene riverside setting and relaxed atmosphere make Battambang an ideal place to unwind and experience the authentic side of Cambodia. 

How to get there: Battambang is a three-hour drive west of Siem Reap, or a 90-minute boat ride across Tonlé Sap, the largest lake in Southeast Asia.


Young girl and boy sit on small canoe-like boat in a floating village in Tonle Sap lake, Cambodia

Bou Sra Waterfall cascading over rocks in Cambodia

Bou Sra Waterfall

Mondulkiri: An Off-the-Beaten-Path Outdoor Adventure

The remote province of Mondulkiri in eastern Cambodia is home to breathtaking waterfalls, lush jungles and rolling hills. Trek through the picturesque landscape and encounter the wildlife, including gibbons and elephants. 

For a truly authentic experience, take a tour of a Bunong hill tribe village with a local guide. Learn about their agricultural fields, spirit forests and burial grounds, all of which are living places of social, spiritual and historical importance.

Bunong hill tribe women stand in doorway, one with a child on her back at small wooden home with large thatched roof

Take a tour of a Bunong hill tribe village and learn about their customs.

Looking for a relaxing day in the great outdoors? Hire a tuk-tuk for the day and head to Bou Sra Waterfall, 31 miles (50 kilometers) outside of Sen Monorom. Pack a lunch to go and enjoy a picnic in the shade of the trees. After lunch, cool off in the pools beneath the upper waterfall. Even if you don’t take the plunge, the spray from the waterfall is a great way to cool down on a hot day. 

If you’re feeling more adventurous, try the Mayura Zipline. This seven-zipline course takes you as high as 500 feet (150 meters) above the waterfall — that’s the equivalent of a 45-story building! — making it one of the highest ziplines in Asia. Soar through the jungle canopy and get a bird’s-eye view of the waterfall.

Man in yellow helmet and red shirt smiles as he hangs on zipline high above the Bou Sra Waterfall in Cambodia

Brave souls can zipline 500 feet above the waterfall!

The Elephant Valley Project (EVP) is a nonprofit organization that rescues and rehabilitates retired Asian elephants. They work to protect these pachyderms by allowing them to roam freely within a 1,200-hectare habitat, while providing medical care. Day trips to the sanctuary usually involve two walks through the forest, learning about these amazing creatures and enjoying a buffet lunch overlooking the forest canopy.

Mother elephant with baby at the Elephant Valley Project sanctuary in Cambodia

Two of the well-cared-for members of the Elephant Valley Project sanctuary family

EVP is a great place to learn about elephants and their conservation. You’ll get to see them up close and personal, and learn about their natural behaviors — as well as have the opportunity to support their care and rehabilitation.

How to get there: Mondulkiri is a five-and-a-half-hour drive northeast of Phnom Penh. You can hire a taxi or take an express bus or minivan.



Treehouse on beautiful white sand beach on Koh Rong Sanloem island in Cambodia

Literally escape from it all at the untouched island of Koh Rong Samloem.

Koh Rong Samloem: An Unspoiled Tropical Paradise 

Have you ever dreamed of escaping to a secluded island? With a bit of planning, you can! Koh Rong Samloem, a small island 14 miles (23 kilometers) off the southwest coast of Cambodia, is the perfect getaway. Unlike its more developed neighbor, Koh Rong, this island remains largely unspoiled and untouched.

Here, you can lounge on pristine white sand beaches and enjoy a cocktail or two. Go snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters and explore vibrant coral reefs. And at night, head back to the beach to witness amazing bioluminescent plankton. 

Child snorkels by white, yellow and black fish in the crystal-clear waters of Koh Rong, Cambodia

Just look at the crystal-clear water and those colorful fish!

Astounding blue bioluminescent plankton washing on the shore at night on Koh Rong in Cambodia

Head back to the beach at night to see breathtaking blue bioluminescent plankton washing ashore.

How to get there: Heads up: The only way to get to Koh Rong Samloem is via a one-and-a-half-hour ferry ride from Sihanoukville. If you’re staying in Siem Reap, you can take a 50-minute direct flight to Sihanouk International Airport. From there, you can hail a tuk-tuk or taxi to take you to the ferry terminal. Alternatively, you can take a six-or-so-hour bus ride or private taxi from Phnom Penh.

Tourist boat plies the Mekong River in Kratie, Cambodia, with Irrawaddy dophins swimming nearby

While in Kratie, you have to look out for the endangered Irrawaddy dolphins.

Kratie: A Gem on the Mekong River

Situated along the banks of the Mekong, Kratie is a small town known for its incredible wildlife — most notably, the endangered Irrawaddy dolphins. Take a boat tour to observe these gentle creatures in their natural habitat for a truly magical experience.

You can also rent a bike and explore the peaceful countryside to admire the sleepy villages, traditional stilt houses, rice fields and lotus farms. Be sure to visit Wat Sorsor Muoy Roy, the 100-Column Pagoda. Then, grab a beer and watch one of the epic Mekong sunsets. 

Kratie offers a glimpse into rural Cambodian life and a chance to witness the wonders of nature up close. 

How to get there: Kratie is 149 miles (240 kilometers) north of Phnom Penh, and is roughly a four-hour drive from there. 

Pink umbrellas line the beach with a few sunbathers and jetskis in Kep, Cambodia

Relax on the beach in the seaside town of Kep.

Kep: A Coastal Delight

For a blend of coastal beauty and culinary delights, head to Kep, a charming seaside town located in southern Cambodia. Known for its fresh seafood, Kep is a paradise for any foodie. Expect an abundance of fresh shrimp and mouth-watering crab (try it with Kampot pepper), while enjoying unforgettable views of the Gulf of Thailand. 

A plate of Kampot pepper crab, with scallions and round green vegetable, a speciality of Kratie, Cambodia

Try the most popular local dish, Kampot pepper crab.

Explore the lush jungle trails of Kep National Park, hike to the gorgeous Kep Beach or visit the iconic abandoned villas that showcase the rich history of the old colonial beach resort.

Before or after heading into the park, be sure to stop in Led Zep Café, a short distance from the park entrance. They offer maps and snacks for hikers, as well as delicious crepes and sandwiches for anyone looking for a quiet lunch spot with a nice view.

Return to Kep and visit Sothy’s Pepper Farm to learn how the rare Kampot peppercorn is produced — considered by many to be the finest pepper in the world. It’s named after its region of production, just like Vidalia onions, Bourbon whiskey and Roquefort cheese.

How to get there: Kampot is 14 miles (22 kilometers) from Kep, or a 30-minute tuk-tuk ride.

Rescued elephant wades in the water in the lush, green jungles of Mondulkiri, Cambodia

The Hidden Gems of Cambodia 

Cambodia is a treasure trove of amazing sites just waiting to be discovered. Whether you’re seeking natural beauty, relaxation, cultural immersion or just to get away from the crowds, the lesser-known areas of Cambodia offer a truly authentic experience. –Sally Giles

Elephant Nature Park: A Day You’ll Never Forget

Feed and bathe the residents of this elephant sanctuary outside of Chiang Mai.

Water buffalo coexist with the elephants at the park, one of the highest-rated sanctuaries in Northern Thailand

Water buffalo coexist with the elephants at the park, one of the highest-rated sanctuaries in Northern Thailand

Before we did a bit of research, we didn’t know any better. We thought the idea of riding an elephant would be fun. But the more we read in preparation for our trip to Chiang Mai, the more we realized we didn’t want to be a part of perpetuating the ill treatment of elephants and that we wanted instead to visit a sanctuary, a place where elephants were rescued and not exploited.

It’s heartbreaking to think how much these elephants suffered before their idyllic life in the sanctuary

It’s heartbreaking to think how much these elephants suffered before their idyllic life in the sanctuary

The Elephant Nature Park outside of Chiang Mai had great reviews, so we booked a half-day visit with them. A van came to pick us up at our hotel, stopping in town to gather other travelers. The ride takes over an hour, and be warned: You’ll have to sit through a horrific video detailing the barbaric practices of “training” elephants.



The sad fact is that en route to the park, while you’re learning about the cruel practices trainers use to break one of these creatures, you’ll pass tourist operations where people are riding elephants. Which means they’re guilty of the atrocities you’re watching on the small screen at the front of the van.

Spend a day at the Elephant Nature Park to feed, bathe and get to know rescued elephants

Spend a day at the Elephant Nature Park to feed, bathe and get to know rescued elephants

The Elephant Nature Park’s mission is to rescue elephants who have been retired from the logging trade, have been abused by the tourism circuit or have suffered in some other way.
Elephants live about as long as humans do

Elephants live about as long as humans do

The Elephant Nature Park was founded by Lek Chailert. Her mission is to rescue elephants who have been retired from the logging trade, have been abused by the tourism circuit (trekking, street begging, circuses) or have suffered in some other way.

Little Yindee is one of seven baby elephants to have been born in the park

Little Yindee is one of seven baby elephants to have been born in the park

The park purchases elephants for about 2 to 3 million baht and offers them a 500-acre sanctuary to roam freely. There are currently over 30. A lot of them have medical problems from their ill treatment in the past, and here they receive excellent medical care and the proper diet.

Elephants at the park get fed corn, rice, watermelon and squash — but they seem to prefer bananas

Elephants at the park get fed corn, rice, watermelon and squash — but they seem to prefer bananas

Insider Tip: You’ll do a lot of walking, so we don’t recommend wearing flip-flops as a lot of the other guests did. But you also don’t want to wear shoes you can’t get wet — at the end of the tour, you have the chance to go into the river to bathe an elephant, and we had to go barefoot. The best footwear would be walking sandals that can go in the water.

Wally and Duke had a fun day at the Elephant Nature Park while visiting Chiang Mai

Wally and Duke had a fun day at the Elephant Nature Park while visiting Chiang Mai

Please Do Feed the Animals

At the Elephant Nature Park, you get divided into smaller groups of 12 or so, and you make the rounds seeing the elephants as they go about their day. Our first stop was to feed Kham Moon. She’s 55 years old (elephants have the same life expectancy as humans!). She was involved in logging until she broke her leg and was deemed useless for those purposes. Now she’s a sweet, if spoiled, resident of the park.

There are baskets of food you’re allowed to feed the elephants. We fed her pumpkins at first, but after a while she spotted the bananas and only had eyes for them. These big beasts sure love to eat — they consume at least 10 percent of their body weight every day! Our guide, Nieo, told us that elephants eat for 20 hours a day and sleep only three to four.

Many of the elephants at the park show signs of their previously abusive lives

Many of the elephants at the park show signs of their previously abusive lives

An elephant's trunk is its most versatile tool. It’s used for breathing, smelling, trumpeting, touching, grasping for leaves, sucking up and sometimes spraying out water. This useful bit of equipment has 40,000 muscles (compared to the human body which has just 639 muscles), Nieo explained.

You don’t really realize how wise and sweet these animals are until you get up close and personal with them

You don’t really realize how wise and sweet these animals are until you get up close and personal with them

It’s really quite freaky but amazing watching elephants eat. The end of their snouts are able to grab food, moving like fingers. I’d hold out a banana, then quickly move my hand away as the snout pulsated, squealing like a little girl.

An elephant’s trunk is an amazingly useful appendage

An elephant’s trunk is an amazingly useful appendage

When near an elephant, always stand where it can see you — they don’t have peripheral vision. You also shouldn’t stand directly in front or behind an elephant, Nieo told us.

It’s true that elephants are scared of mice, our guide added. “They don’t like small things — including children. They move too fast.” Keep that in mind if you’re bringing little ones along.

Our next stop was feeding Sook Jai, an 82-year-old elephant. She’s blind and has no teeth, so we had to peel bananas before giving them to her.

Another elephant fun fact: They’re natural born farmers. They only digest 40 percent of their food, so whatever they eat grows out of their poop.

The elephants cool off in the water and use their trunks to spray themselves

The elephants cool off in the water and use their trunks to spray themselves

Bath Time

Our group moved through the hot sun over to the watering hole, watching the elephants cool off, spewing the brown water onto their backs. We learned that one of the elephants in the group had been rescued after stepping on a landmine.

A baby elephant named Yindee splashed in the water with her cohorts. She’s one of seven elephants to have been born in the park.

Duke thinks this elephant could use some good moisturizer

Duke thinks this elephant could use some good moisturizer

Wally makes a new friend

Wally makes a new friend

Some of the mahouts splashed one of the elephants who has bad legs and can’t lie down in the water. While we watched these giant creatures cool off, the operation across the river had people riding elephants right by guys recklessly driving off-road ATVs. Our group all disparaged them, and I suggested throwing elephant dung at them.

Our guide was informative and had a great sense of humor

Our guide was informative and had a great sense of humor

By the river, we fed an elephant named Jandee. That means “Kind Heart,” Nieo told us. It’s ironic, though because this 66-year-old is a bit feisty and would fight if she was near other elephants.

She doesn’t have any teeth, either, so we fed her rice balls.

I pretended like I was going to throw one. “Snowball fight!” I joked, giving Jandee her treat.

She swung her trunk around with the rice ball before eating it. “She likes to play with her food,” I pointed out.

Jandee is the second largest elephant at the camp. She’s from a photo studio on the island of Ko Tao, where people could take wedding photos with her. But the operator didn’t have license, and she was purchased and brought to the Elephant Nature Park.

You’ll also see a lot of elephants using their trunks to toss mud and dirt onto their backs. It acts as a natural sunscreen to protect their skin and keep them cool.

The park is also a rescue center for cats (as well as dogs)

The park is also a rescue center for cats (as well as dogs)

Midway through the morning, we break for lunch so we could actually feed ourselves and not just the elephants. We had heard that the buffet was delicious, and the online reviews didn’t lie. There are numerous local dishes to choose from, and many of them are vegetarian.

After we were done eating, Duke and I wandered behind the kitchen to the Cat Kingdom. In addition to rescuing elephants, the park also saves water buffalo, dogs (avoid the ones with red bandanas around their necks, as they’re not good around people) and cats. The feline contingency has its own domain, which we explored.

When you join the elephants in the river, be advised that the muddy water can stain your clothes

When you join the elephants in the river, be advised that the muddy water can stain your clothes

The final stop of the day is watering elephants. In addition to not recommending you go barefoot (one of the girls with us stepped on something and cut her foot pretty badly), you also shouldn’t wear anything you won’t mind getting stained. The water is brown, and I got drenched when a young woman on the opposite side of the elephant overshot, and the bucketful of water landed right on me. The mud in the water must have some intense pigmentation because my shorts and shirt never got fully clean afterward.

The Elephant Nature Park has a noble goal, and it’s great to see these intelligent creatures up close and personal. If you’re spending five or so days in Chiang Mai, this is a day trip you should definitely put on your list (along with ziplining at Flight of the Gibbon and the colorful tour of temples in Chiang Rai, starting with the White Temple).

There were some Brits in our group who decided to skip the after-lunch activities and just sat in the pavilion getting wasted. We had to listen to them drunkenly shout and whine that they needed the loo the entire ride home.

That aside, a day at the Elephant Nature Park will make you better understand (and even fall in love with) elephants. They never forget, and neither will you. –Wally

We’re putting our foot down — go to an elephant sanctuary and don’t perpetuate the abuse of these amazing creatures

We’re putting our foot down — go to an elephant sanctuary and don’t perpetuate the abuse of these amazing creatures

Elephant Nature Park
209/2 Sridom Chai Road
Tambon Kuet Chang
Amphoe Mae Taen
Chang Wat
Chiang Mai 50100, Thailand